Ciao Sergio. This Canon OES M intrigues me.. I would use it as a second camera next to the Blackmagic Cinema Camera 4K. Is there a setup where you can feel confident that it won't drop frames? or did I create artifices? I saw your videos on the davinci workflow for the color of the two machines. It doesn't seem easy to me.. Could you help me?
When I want to match the EOS M to my BMPCC 4k I use the following settings: mode 1x3, 16:9 Aspect Ratio, 4.2K anamorphic, 12 or 14bit. For example in this video I used these settings for my talking head and the footage sample ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XkRvU2FpAI0.html , I made another video matching the EOS M with the BM4k ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0G-9x4ukZkE.html
Thank you Sergio! I've been fighting my Chronos 2.1 high speed camera for 4 years. It uses DNG as it's raw output and I had been doing big colour manipulations to get it looking good. This method works perfectly. It turns out for my camera the Blackmagic Design decode settings are almost perfect. This will save me so much time in post production!
Aku membeli eos M adalah untuk kebahagiaan yang murah, ini terlalu berlebihan , yang kamu lakukan ini sebenarnya siasia jika menggunakan monitor internal pada eos M, kamu lupa menyarankan untuk membeli monitor external di situ tersedia histogram dan false color yang lebih baik. untuk kalian yang nonton ini jika ingin mengikuti cara yang ada di tutorial ini belilah black magic camera
This tutorial is for EOS M user who can’t buy an external monitor. Not all people can afford it. So it’s the correct way when your only available tools are the one included in the camera itself. You can own Blackmagic cameras (I own the 4k and the 6K FF) and at the same time enjoy the portability and the raw excellent quality images (film style) that the EOS M can offer with Magic Lantern
Super helpful! I am new to Magic Lantern and I could not understand why my images were coming through underexposed until I watched your video. Your videos should be required viewing for all Magic Lantern users! Thank you!
796p from this camera is sharper than 1080p from mine, although aliasing is bad. Also why does the panning cause so much flicker on things like the poles in the foreground at 14:53 ? The one on the right jiggles like crazy. The moire comparison is crazy again. Very big differences that make you think twice about the settings and the gear you select.
I think that what you noticed is not flicker , the clip was shot a 23.98 FPS with the slow shutter 1/50. Probably it happened because of the low shutter speed (like when you shoot on film) and my distracted and not smooth pan
Thank you for sharing your thoughts: I respect your opinion. In my opinion, I don’t think that the superscale feature in DaVinci is plastic or artificial; for me, it is an excellent tool when you want to upscale a 1080 footage to 4K. On the other hand Topaz is a more powerful tool if you need a noise video reduction without losing much definition or details when you upscale 1080 footage.
Sergio I love your content, you are an extraordinary kind person to share all this knowledge with the world. So thank you. I have just ordered a Canon EOS M. Just one question has come to mind as I have only seen very short clips (all fantastic quality), how difficult will it be to make an hour long film using this system?
Thank you!! If your question is about whether you can film 1 hour continuously without stop recording, the answer is yes, you can, by configuring the camera with a certain resolution, color depth, and specific settings. The ambient temperature also influences to ensure the camera doesn't overheat. However, honestly, filming continuously in RAW for an hour is not the best decision, nor is this camera the most suitable for it, because one hour of continuous RAW recording, it’s equivalent to an huge file of approximately 150-180 GB. I'm sure no one wants that. If you are asking if you can film a 1 hour project like for example a documentary or a future film, yes you can film it because finally the 1 hour project is the results of the edition of a lot of short clips. For long continuously shots (more than 10 minutes continuously recordings) I suggest to use the native eosM 8bit video (not ML), mainly because of the big files generated through ML.
Eos m is most underrated camera, this camera puts you in limits, but if you learn how to use it u will grow as cimetographer. I have 7 years of filming experience with different cameras but i was bought eos m a few days ago and i was shocked what can do this little camera. Nice content mate 👍👍👍
Thank you. When I got my EOS M, after filming my first shots, I was surprised by how the RAW image was so similar (in terms of feel) to an analog image shot on film. So yes, this small camera can be great for people who want to learn to film but don't have a big budget to buy equipment
Looks superb Sergio! You're such a good story teller and your wife is such a cooperative subject. Grande lavoro di squadra! When are you guys coming to Australia???
Thank you, Sergio - this has been incredibly useful, it has answered many questions and saved me a lot of time too. Beautifully made and presented video!
Hi Sergio, love your content . Would it not be better to do the colour grade adjustments after the first CST node? What is your reason to adjust before this? Also does the Phantom lut transform the colour space to rec 709? Is that why the second CST node has Rec 709 as colour space in?? Also, why is your last colour space out set to Davinci? I've never seen that..as broadcast colour space is rec 709 .. so surely the last output colour space should be rec 709 right? .. curious to understand more and appreciate any answers you can give 😊
In this video I worked using davinci color managed and the final CST nodes are technical and they were used to apply a LUT like Phantom. So all the Color grade was done in a Davinci Wide Color Space. My last CST is set to Davinci because I’m in Davinci Color Managed, which automatically convert your output in rec 709 because I set it so in my project. So after my lut (output rec709) I have to come back to davinci as in my project, otherwise I’m gonna have a doble rec 709 conversion. You can get the some results using Davinci YRGB, setting your timeline color space to Davinci Wide Gamma and your output color space to rec 709 (2.2, 2.4, -A or whatever depending on your deliveries). In this case you need to set a CST in and a CST out and make your grade between these two nodes. I don’t use anymore Davinci Color Manged in my workflow, and I prefer to work with CST nodes. Check my video on my workflow with cDNG files from ML ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XkRvU2FpAI0.html
@@russo-filmmaking thanks Sergio, that clears up my questions. I've been watching videos by a great professional colourist @darrenmostyn and the video you linked to in your reply follows more the method I've been learning from him. The only difference is I've seen him use the Kodak film emulation lut, but from what I understand: this lut is expecting both a rec 709 input and the cineon gamma . So in this case he adds another CST after your last CST out to rec 709. he makes a compound node of CST cineon gamma node and the Kodak LUT node. This means he can adjust the opacity of the compound node, which means you can effect the strength of the Kodak film look.
it depends a lot of the environment . If you work in a could environment you don’t have problems with heat, and you can record continuously. Take in count that filming in raw generates huge files, so you don’t want to film clips larger than a few minutes (1 minute in raw is about 2.5-3 GB depending if you shoot 10 or 14bit and depending of the resolution you choose). In warm environment heat will increase up to 50-52 celsius degrees, so I suggest to shoot short clips.
Great! I only have one doubt and one criticism, why use rec 709 A which would only be a quicktime tag? Why don't you do color management only with the nodes in order to avoid switching from sdr to hdr only to go back to DVRWG? However, here the limitation of the luts to emulate film can only be applied on the color and curve space for which they were built, it is better to use powergrades or specific plug ins
When I started using DaVinci Resolve, I used to work using DaVinci Color Managed for my workflow. Then I switched to DaVinci non-managed using the color space transform system through nodes. This video is a year old but it works well, it's an option. In this other video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XkRvU2FpAI0.html , I explain how I work using nodes and specifically for cDNG files. I use rec709-A because I work on a Mac and previously I didn't have a calibrated monitor. Since I publish all my work on RU-vid, which works with tags 1-1-1, it was the only way to ensure that what I saw on my monitor was the same as what was published on RU-vid. Lately, I switched to a calibrated monitor connected through a DeckLink to get a clean signal, and now if I publish on RU-vid, I work in rec 709 2.2 with my monitor calibrated on the same color space
This is an old video. When I started using Davinci Resolve I used to work using Davinci Color Managed. it’s an option. Then I changed my workflow and now I prefer to work with color space transform nodes. Here is a video with my new workflow which I specifically use with cDNG files from Magic Lantern ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XkRvU2FpAI0.html
when I zoom in and then press half shutter doesn't do nothing... (actually sometimes works the autofocus if I zoom and then hold left arrow) ....if I press half shutter without the zoom I get the frame that would actually come out.... I believe am using the same canon lenses as you in this video... I wonder Is it possible to autofocus during recording?
Autofocus when recording is possible with Danne build (the ML version before Crop Mood) but it’s very slow and not precise in many cases. You can use autofocus before recording as I explained in my video.
well I used the EOS M for almost all my RU-vid videos, short movies, music videos and never had problems with raw record time. It depends on how you use it and you set it. If you learn how to shoot with magic lantern you won’t have any problem.
@@russo-filmmaking thank you for your response 🤗Sure, here it is in English: Do you mean that with Magic Lantern I can record almost unlimitedly? Can I record for an hour, for example, without stopping? In raw 4k for example?
@LaMakinaFotonika it depends from the settings you use, if you for example use the 3x3 mode you can record one hour if your sd card has enough space because the raw files are very large. I really never recorded 1 hour without stopping the camera (for the kind of work I do) but I did continuosly shots of more than 15 minutes, recording some event in 4.2k anamorphic mode in 12bit without any issue. With magic lantern there is no real 4K, you can shoot 4.2K, 4.6k, 4.8K up to 5.2K in anamorphic mode. In my channel there is a video on crop mood where I explain the main resolutions in which you can shoot and what of them is more stable .
Eliminé los loop formers que guían la película. Esto se aplica solo a la Krasnogorsk-3 y hay varios tutorial de como desarmarlos porque hay que desarmar con cuidado y siguiendo ciertos procedimientos parte de la cámara (no es complicado). Hay varios tutoriales en la red que explican paso a paso como hacer esta operación. Los loop formers se eliminan porque muchas veces atoran la película y ademas en muchos casos la rallan. No afecta la filmación, al contrario la mejoran. El único lado negativo es que tienes que cargar la película completamente de forma manual (aunque no es nada difícil), mientras que con los loop formers la carga es semi automática y mas sencilla.
I uploaded another video which was fully shot with the krasnogorsk-3. This is the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--8HCX9bcOnc.html . And I’m filming more footage in 16mm that will be post in July
With the latest crop mood modified by Danne, you can use the auto focus function. But it’s very bad and slow . So if you use the eos M or other cameras with magic lantern you have to learn to pool manually focus like people do when shoot movies. You can use magic zoom during recording or assign focus aid (present in the Danne Crop Mood version) to the shutter for focusing while recording
Check this video to see what resolution you can get with the EOS M and Magic Lantern Crop mood, and their limitation ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EPFWQwXLr4A.html This is a 14 old camera, which was mainly created for pictures and not for video, so you can´t get true 4K. But if you learn how to use it, you can get better quality footages than a lot of 4K cameras.
Congratulations, great work. You put together this story in an interesting way, it fits perfectly with 16mm. When I watch your film, I feel like I'm traveling in time.
Hi Sergio, I had the opportunity to use your valuable advice. The result is a short film about my new passion for living with bees in the mountains. Most of the shots were taken with Canon EOS-M Crop Mood 5.2K 12Bit. I caught a Wild Bee Swarm in June 2023. This was the beginning of a new challenge, how to work with the bees. My bees have a “comfortable pied à terre” in a Layens Horizontal Hive in my backyard. I recently performed my first inspection of the hive, video is on my channel, the bee colony survived the harsh winter!
Well man, your shots are great. Some bees details are amazing and I liked so much the snow scenes at the end. This could be a beautiful short documentary if you could edit the duration to about 8-10 minutes introducing a voice over explaining your works and the bees behavior, that would help a lot with spreading your video to more people. Share the link of your video on the Facebook group "MLV RAW ON EOS M", the greatest community for Magic Lantern EOS M passionate people, it could help you to get more views and followers, explaining how you shoot your video. By the way what lenses did you use?, the images are very sharp, what other camera did you use for your shots (you said most of the shots were taken with the EOS-M, so other shots were taken with another camera I suppose)
Are there any differences on recording capability? I know that 700d can record up to 40mb/s , while eos m can double or more that number. Is that right?
I don't think so. Depending on resolution and preset I normally get between 75-82mb/s with the 700D. The only thing I noticed with the 700D is that (at least mine) easily in a warm environment (more than 27 degree celsius) reaches more than 54 degree celsius very fast, and this causes problems when recording.
The LAB delivered to me Prores 4444 Log. I used DaVinci Resolve. I created a first Color Space Transform node in which I transformed the clip from cineon to davinci WG and a final CST node from Davinci WG to rec709 . In the middle of these two nodes I made my color grade .
Fantastic footage! Great framing and editing. Looks like one stop over is perfectly fine for the 50D. Will watch this clip again on my PC monitor. Looks super smooth and crisp on my cell phone. Film is pure eye candy.
You have been my go to RU-vidr since your EOS-M videos. They've helped me a lot. To the point that now my EOSM is my A-Cam and my modern FUJIFILM X-H1 is my B-Cam. 🤣 I'm sorry but I gotta ask... what modes did you mainly shot at? 4.2K? 5.2K? I think I saw some 1080P in the BTS scene of your test shots with the K-3. Regardless of the mode, the film was fantastic!!! Can't wait for your next project. Cheers!
Hi, I follow your channel too. Your footage has always a great quality. I always use 1x3 mode in my videos. If I want to shoot 16:9 I use 4.2K preset with only x2 crop (similar to BMPCC 4k crop). In the latest months I started to film 4.6K 2.2:1 aspect ratio 12 or 14 bits. It's my go to preset. In my next video I'll emulate the 16mm footage of my krasnogorsk-3 camera with the EOSM and to do this I had to set my canon to 1x1 mode 4:3 aspect ratio 2048x1500. I made a lot of test and this format with a big crop factor gives me almost the exact focal view of a standard 16mm camera.
Good evening, I have a very special problem with my Canon EOS M and Magic Lantern. I use the camera already for 6 months without any problem. Today I took some stills with the Canon OS. Now I'm not able to come back to the Magic Lantern screen. All the rest is working. I can open the Magic Lantern settings, I can take videos, but I can't see the top and bottom bars from ML on my screen. It just shows the Canon OS screen. I already format the card, reset the camera, reinstalled ML, but no result. Does someone have an idea what is wrong? Many Thanks
Try to get out the SD card, then switch the camera on (photo mode). You'll see the caption "no card in camera". Be sure to have only that caption on the screen and not the controls screen overlay. I you have other informations rather than "no card in camera" than click the info button until only "no card in camera " appears. After that, which off the camera, put in the sd card, put the camera on video mode and turn the camera on.
