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@@ReidPerformance i figured! also just wanna say i’m loving the content my man🤝🏾as i fellow scat owner who just put a tune and headers on, i really appreciate the thorough information and detail you put into your vids. it helps out so much! keep doing your thing bro🤙🏾
I’m learning how to tune and I’m starting out on dodge since it is what I personally own. Is there an email that I can contact you to ask a few questions? If not it’s no worries it’s just difficult to get good info that is easy to understand.
I have a 392 Jeep Wrangler with the Diablo I3 tuner & unlocked PCM. Do you work with customers via Email tune if so....what is the best way to get a hold of you...Thanks Warmeds
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, I do not work with Diablo products. If you are willing to switch the HPTuners, I can tune remotely. Let me know, and I will pass my contact over.
Everyone in my club mods and tunes their cars except me. I just don't see the point. Unless you already got an engine problem or gonna make a huge difference why even bother?
I have the aem 30-0300. Has red, black, blue, white, brown, green/black, etc. I was told I only need to use the red, black, and blue, where could I ground the blue wire to?
I would say adding the spacer to any 5.7 with the 5.7 will still pick up power.. the amount of power pick will increase slightly as well with the 392 intake manifold
I port my own mustang manifolds. After buying from the biggest coyote porter and being disappointed. I use a 8” mandrel with harbor freight sanding cones. On a dewalt drill. Back when my cars were NA they were the fastest NA cars in the county. Even beating stock boosted vehicles
@yvngramirez8889 I just use the basic dremel mod with the dremel extension. The bits I use are the 120 or 160 grit sanding wheels (also a dremel product)
@@yvngramirez8889 just google 8” porting mandrel. Also got a slotted one so I could smooth out the sanding marks. But I used the 80 grit cones. Then step up to 120 and 240. After that use the slotted mandrel with 600 and or 800 grit.
Chop don’t allways mean high HP … a lot of guys get the big lope chop with almost no rise … on stock spec …. What’s tune you install with this cam or didn’t need any additional tuning .. did u change springs lifters and valves also … or u running stock OEM valve train on a cam install
Once again another great video. Thank you for sharing how to port the intake, now i know i will be able to do it myself. Thank you for showing us step by step. And keep up the good work and stay safe out there 👍👍
Porting an intake for a stock engine does nothing except provide more throttle response because of the added air volume now being flowed into the intake ports. To make power, you need to upgrade the parts that utilize the amount of airflow. Camshaft, ported heads, headers, or all of the above.
@@ReidPerformance I would like to recommend that the best buy is: install a supercharger: the least amount of time is spent, a significant amount of power is gained, which is greater than what is gained together with: fixing of intake and exhaust, camshaft, and it costs the same
I get your concept here, and I don't think in theory you are wrong. My only concern is that you have removed material from a plastic intake manifold, and thus made the structure weaker. Add heat to that mix and I think you are asking for hairline cracks that will form and ultimately lead to either a rich engine condition or misfires.
@@ReidPerformance Do you think that the 4,800 rpm setting of the SRV maybe changed according to what the porting may have changed to the Helmholtz effect. Thanks
@jerrymossor288 no, the setting is the same.. it comes from RPM read out. You can change the setting if you like.. but has nothing to do with the end result of porting.
@@ReidPerformance somebody has answered if you just port it no gain,i ported intake manifold,heads ports,replaced 5.7 camshaft with 6.1, and got tune from johan and gain is just it can be noticed, and exhaust from heads to rear bumper,if i got 30-40 hp on wheels
By 392 headers he means shorty headers, for anyone wondering just get long tube headers or aftermarket shorty headers they’re a lot more open so better air flow then the factory ones.
@@ReidPerformanceMy 6-spd '14 R/T was programmed for a pig-rich 11.6:1 WOT. That was the base .0688 FA Stoich + WOT adder, up in the 4K+ rpm range. I leaned it out to about 12:25:1 commanded at WOT, only run 93-octane and she seemed to like it. No indicated knock, to speak of. I need to get it on a dyno with a WB O2 sensor. I hear NGK WB meters are good, and cheaper than a Ballenger AFR500.
@ronbo422 I use the AEM 30-034. Although you are commanding the 12.2… it’s best to not play with WOT fueling unless you have a wideband on it. It might command 11.6 in stock form.. but I’d bet it actually isn’t that rich at wot because of the injector data set up. I would guess it’s closer to the 12.1 area.
@@ReidPerformance Thanks for the tip. I put an AEM 0300 sensor kit, and a Prolink+ cable, in my Amazon cart. I'll return the WOT tables back to their stock values until I install it. On a slightly diff subject, what values do you address when longtube headers come into play? I know Transport delay has to be increased but are there other changes to the tune that are needed? Or will ANN "deal" with the increased exhaust (scavenging effect)?
@@ReidPerformance What do you mean drivers mod. Let's say their same mods. Or do you mean depends on who's driving? I'm asking because I can't make up my mind on Dct or Manual I like them both but what's going to be the fastest after the same mods done? 6 speed manual or 8 speed Dct?
@@392SCATBLK I don't understand why there's so much idks on the Internet about Dct vs manual. You think same mods Dct vs manual a manual will get a Dct? Help me out. I can't decide on Dct 8 speed or man 6 speed. I just want the fastest model. I get mixed results everywhere. Is 40 more torque over the Dct gonna make up the difference on a tune with slower shifts from a manual?
