So what might have happened is when you put the top back together you the throttle linage was pushed just enough in the open position for the solenoid to not push it to off. That’s what happened to mine.
You had the wrong size belt on the alternator. The bolt shouldn't be tightened past 1/2 way on the bracket. I have the proper belt sizes and OEM brand recommendations if you need them...
I think my parking brake sticks on mine. If i put it in gear it will not move without pushing the pedal a pretty good way and it'll stop rather quickly if i let off. How do i check for this? Or is this normal on these trucks?
My CUCV did that also. I ended up going with 1/2” commercial gates belts. These are the ones with the green back. I don’t have to constantly tighten these so it’s a win.
@@jacklope1 good to hear it worked. I just got a new part. It has that hole and I’ve been wondering how to seal/plug that hole. Do you remember what size Washer you used? I’m assuming I should not stuff any material into the hole? Thank you for the reply sir!
It was much easier to do it this way than to remove the fuel lines from the pump first. I took advice from members at the steel soldiers forums who have done this job many times.
It's been a while, but I believe someone (from steel soldiers message board) told me they are self greasing.... From the gear oil through the axel tube. I do recall adding grease to the bearings before I was told that.
Do you have a picture or a belt diagram? Just got my truck 6 months ago Threw my belt on the alt on the driver side, looking for a diagram for help when the new belt comes in.
Used blue paper shop towels to stuff underneath each bolt I was removing to block off any space the bolt could fall into (you warned us about); can use paper towel or tape to create a snugger grip between the socket and bolt head if you don't have those magnets as I did not. Great video and really helped me.
Hey bud had same problem..jump a hot from battery to solenoid glossary connector...you will hear a click....if you have a click and hold button do as always then start.. after starting removecwire..
I have one of these setting in my garage fore 11 years. I`m wanting to pull it out this summer and Ive been wondering what size batteries would fit in place of military batteries. thanks for the info on the group 31.
Hi, do you still have the truck? I'm looking for the three way rubber connection that goes onto the bottom of the CDR, the two metal pipes from each side of the manifold connect into it.
FYI, I recently discovered that they make a special tool just for this glow plug issue. It pulls them out without damaging the threads. If they do break off you can revert back to the injector removal method. I found mine at leroysdiesel.com. It works great. Also, if they do break off they don't actually fall into the cylinder. I have an 85 CUCV so I love the videos.
Jack Lope... Gentleman, Thank you so much for the video - as I learned maintaining on M1009. however I*ve memories Dekades ago, - same situation... as playing with my dogs - 2-*Dackel- girls with Tenniss Balls - as I worked on my Willy's M38A1..long times ago, Now I am trying for a chevy BLAZER M1009 or a Humvee M998 - for country life, my manor. I guess a Humvee - is too martialic. As I recognized you have a good heart for animals.. Maybe I can see more of your lectures on M1009, May I wish you health and luck also for your cute dog.. and last but not least for your *Beast. Greetings from Germany.... So long..
A little late on commenting, but how well did this work overall? I'm tempted to pull mine out and do this, but I don't want to hurt anything in the long run... also what is the part number for that filter?
Gotta change mine in a 96 k 2500. Never been changed truck has around 67k original on it. hope I don't run into this problem.If I do there will be some choice words .Thanks for sharing.
Have you had good luck with the doghead relay ? I have a ,M1009 with the original still on it haven't had trouble yet knock on wood just hate to cut wires .
