If it's a RIB boat, no it will still float even though the tubes are punctured. There's a video on RU-vid of a gentleman who demonstrates that exact question. If I can find it, I'll post the link here for you.
Ive got a leaking valve on my right pontoon. The other pontoon is completely fine and i tried swapping the valves but I still have leaks on the right one, When swapping valves the left pontoon showed no leaks. Is the marine grease what I need or is my pontoon bladder ruined somehow? If so what grease did you use here? and does it make a difference? -thanks!
I guess my follow up would be. How do I know if the basket is broken? it looooooks fine to me but I dont know what im looking for. would there be a big crack or something?
We use generic marine grease. One in the video is 3M marine grease. Chances are the basket is broken or there is a stress crack on the fabric around the valve or just under it. To tell if the basket is broken, it won't tighten and will just continuously spin when trying to tighten. Stress cracks, you'll have to pull the valve out and bend around the valve hole and see if there is a cracking. One of my first boats I ever fixed had that problem where we changed the valve, and still leaked. Upon further inspection I noticed the fabric crack. And to repair had to make a donut patch so the valve sealed.
@@gashopperinc thanks for the reply. When i tighten it it does get pretty tight but it never really stops, I could try tightening it more but Im afraid Ill over tighten it and break the basket if its not already broken. Is there a way to change the backet? or in that case is the pontoon bladder toast? In the other scenario, when you say fabric crack, my pontoon has a inner bladder and outer canvas. would this crack be on the outer fabric? or the bladder itself? (thank you so much for the help already! Your video was already so helpful, Im very afraid my pontoon is broken) *Update* There is a small tear around the basket housing, but when I spray the bladder with soapy water the bubbles seem to come from in the basket where the threads are. My thoughts is a donut patch would maybe work for ether issue, do you have a recommended product for that? The videos on the channel Im seeing are bigger tears with inner patches, do you have a video on smaller patches like what Im after?
If the bladder is toast, then you would be filling both chambers from one valve. You'll know when it's tight cause there will be lots of tension. If the tension gets to a point where it all of sudden becomes loose, then the basket is shot. To change the basket, you can do 1 of 2 ways, cut the the valve opening and put a donut patch or find a area of the boat that isn't going to be visible and do a cut there.
I was just on your website, and noticed your a Canadian company. So I am wondering if you make the re tube kits here. Roughly how long does it usually take to make up a set? Do they come complete with the oar sockets and everything? Would I have any colour choices when ordering?
I like and subscribe you cause I like what you doing . I need your brain for this one, I want to double pad the bottom of my tube boat . Where should I got about it .? Not puncture not nothing just want to add support to the bottom .
There's many different methods of doubling the bottom layers. You can add an additional layer of fabric, you can also add rubstrakes rubber to the bottom, just have to know what fabric your dealing with. EPDM rubber is for Hypalon and PVC is for PVC. And make sure your using the right glue.
thanks for your info on how to do the inside patch. I followed your instructions, Only difference is I used Loctite vinyl, fabric and plastics flexible adhesive. mine was a real job as my cut was near end of pontoon and air inlet, handle and bottom rib were all in the way. We will see, my first patch failed. I used stitch fix, conditions were poor and I was trying to do with pontoon still attached to boat. I brought inside this time and tried to do a better job. My boat is aquos 10.2 boat. A new pontoon will cost me 200.00 so I hope this works. "Thanks for your video.
I have a 15 foot Saturn and I just cracked about 50% of the transom. It was choppy seas. We weren’t going too fast but for whatever reason it cracked and it’s only the second time I’ve had the boat out since I bought it used four days ago. I can send you pictures to let me know if this can even be repaired or if it has to be replaced.
I have a 15 foot Saturn. I was just out in the ocean to go see the dolphins. It was a little bumpy only the second time I had the boat out since I bought it used and the transom cracked about 50% across it has a 25 horse Mercury four stroke
Hola, me gustó mucho el video. Tengo el mismo problema. Tengo varias preguntas si me quieres ayudar. De qué pintura esta recubierta la madera del espejo? Qué pegamento me recomiendas? Muchas gracias desde Suecia.
Hope the translation was correct, but the paint we use is a gelcoat paint or epoxy paint for the new transoms we make. Glue, all depends on the fabric of the boat. Z7096 for PVC Z7098 for Hypalon
Hi, i have the same boat just got from my family. Anyways, missing some air valve caps for the side do you know part number? Or where i could order them? Thank you keep up the good work
Chances are you have the older style caps, which are discontinued. You will have to change over to the screw in style ones. Not sure if I have any in stock, will have to check in the morning. www.gashopperinc.com/contents/en-ca/p131_Semi-Recessed-Valve-Cap.html
Super video ! One question: Did you use always a heat gun for removing the old bonding ? I'm a little bit afraid of damage the tubes. I would be happy for a reply.
@@gashopperinc Thanks a lot for your fast answer ! I will be careful with the heat gun. Well , here in Germany we have with one brand a lot of problems with transoms who rot away in 1-2 years. The problem is the hole for the valve in the transom. The wood is not protected with epoxy or something reliable. Therefore we want to remove these shit transoms (made of trash wood) an replace them with marine plywood and glassed with fabric an epoxy.😊🙋♂
Nice work only one thing to consider on the next go around is to round off your patch edges a from 90 degree so they don't catch and edge as general practice. Nice work. Cheers, #SeattleRingHunter
I know I know. Lol. Been getting lots of feedback for not rounding the corners. I normally do round the corners 99.9% of the time but when it's being covered by the floor or an accessory and isn't visible with no chance of catching or peeling, I'll sometimes get lazy. No worries though, with all the feedback, corners are going to be rounded every time now.
hi loving your videos, iv just picked up an Achilles IRB from a lifesaving club here in south Australia , any vids coming up about how to remove paint without damaging the integrity of the pontoons would be magic ,cheers
Great suggestion for video. But to remove painted letters or paint in general. Use acetone or MEK with a water wipe after. Don't wipe to many times in the same spot, as the acetone and especially MEK will take a micro worth of the skin layer off for each wipe
Just discovered your channel I’m in the UK and I have a Sun Sport 270 what an amazing fix 👍 do you have to use compressor or is it OK to use a hand pump when you’re using this product? Anyway, I’m gonna give it a go Cheers mate 👍🇬🇧
I have an infalible dingy (takacat) that comes in a bag that you blow up as needed (PVC). Will this product work for a dingy that you repeatedly blow up and deflate to store?
Coose board is even better. If you have access to that, I would be using that. But since there is limited to no access to that here, or else we would be using that.
@gashopperinc it's pricey, but I'm going to look into it. I can still get a few more seasons out of this transom before I get really concerned. And since I can't get a hold of the company that made this inflatable boat, it's a toyo, and order a transom I have to make my own.
Sometimes, the transoms you make are better than the manufacturers. We find out that the ones we make here surpass most manufacturers' pre-existing designs.
i know exactly what this is were it comes from how its produced ,and the time frame between a 2 3 4 5 coat i woulds recommend letting it cure 24 hrs then a 2 nd coat , i use this product for something totallty / different comes in various viscositys , it is water based , wow ,somtimes you already know but diddnt realize i ve got new boat coming but will use it anyway its very strong when cured especially with sevral coatings
