I see this is for the early gen PWM alternators, do you have a harness to use with the latest gen (L84-L87)..? From what I read they require some sort of signal "check" from the ecu (I am using a Holley) on the brown alt pin..?
I didnt get anything from what you demonstrated here. Why did did you do this clip? What were you having in your hands? Can’t you find another way to describe what you had in your hands and how they can’t match or match ?😢😢😢😢😢
I have one of your harnesses in my Lt swapped 67 c10. My hot starter post is very close to my SE long tube headers. Are you saying your harness is fused protected should my header somehow come in contact with my starter post?? This keeps me up at night, lol. Thanks for your attention to detail and excellent quality, almost 7,000 miles and zero issues.
some of you all,need to realise,that the harnesses are coming out of One factory...& some of you need to reconcile that Cheap is Not Good....And Good is Not Cheap.
Dumb question. But what if a pin broke off in the 6l80 and maybe removing the back of that pin to an unused pin and soldering the new spot to the old spot and depinning harness to the new spot because the 6l80 only uses 12 wires so the other spots in the trans dont go to anywhere.
I purchased a GM acdelco 02 sensor from the mainline part store. My 02 sensor came in a gm box not a acdelco box with no bag, and it had a cap on its been working fine.
Got the lock out. Blew connection with compressed air. Tried disconnecting and lever broke. Tried rotating again without lever with no success. Any tips for removal?
Please help just got a new set for my 2005 gmc serria and the wires are different colors and I can’t tell which go where one has pink in it one has red and so on
I remember making this mistake and didn’t get to complete my dyno session. I had flipped the coil harness some how during my LSA blower install and had it 7,5,3,1. Long story short I figured it out after towing it back home. I just wish my tuner knew this and we probably would have identified the problem right away.
Learning as I go, but this video helped. I bought after market coil wiring, and I had the passenger side reversed. I could never get it to start right up even with a base tune. It has always taken multiple cranks and lots of back firing. Thank you.
@@bpautomotivellc great video I’m currently running Jegs 40164 GM LS Ignition Coil 1999-2007 5.3ls would the Set 8 GM OEM Delco 12611424Ignition Coils LS3 LSA D510C 12570616 work for my application and would I need to retune 5.3 ls turbo build car has already been tuned
The electrical components like ignition coils and ignition coil harnesses is what makes the vehicle run. They’re not like older carbureted vehicles. They’re specifically designed to run the most efficiently on OEM parts. When you start putting in cheap or even expensive aftermarket parts, then you change the way the computer reads that part. The OEM replacement part is designed specifically for the factory tune of the vehicle. Aftermarket parts are not, because they’re not the manufacturer who knows how the factory tune is. If you have the vehicle tuned away from the factory tune then it’s a different story, because it can be tuned to the aftermarket parts. But aftermarket parts on the factory tune is a no go. Replace the sensors/ignition parts or harnesses with OEM parts.
I ordered a 3wire off amazon and irt is measure 0.0 resistence in the heater circuit.. I dont think thats right,. the old sensor measures around 6.5 ohms
This was my experience with installing Dorman electric fans, a Denso 32" radiator, and an AC Delco 145 Amp alternator, with the BP Harnesses (relays, fuses, etc.), AC upgrade kit and BP tuning of my PCU. This was on a 2000 Silverado 1500, Z71, with a tow package, and the 5.3 engine with 148,000 miles. The truck also had a new/rebuilt transmission, a Scan gauge device and a new clutch fan installed last year. Much of these installation procedures I learned from RU-vid videos, but BP also sends very clear instructions. After the total installation and completing a key/security relearn procedure for the PCU/computer, my truck started but was running roughly. I then learned from my HAYNES manual that there is also a relearning process for your PCU when you disconnect and/or remove the battery. You'd think I'd have already known this. That process is to run the engine at idle until the temperature comes up toward the normal running temp, then run the engine at 1500 rpm for two minutes, then drive at least 5 miles under normal conditions. While running the engine at home I turned on the AC and the fans immediately came on at low speed, and they would intermittently, briefly cycle off and then back on. While making the relearn drive I drove down the HWY approximately 20 miles at 65 mph and up one steep incline, then back through some stops and starts. On my Scan gauge I could see that, as normal, my engine was running from 190 to 195 degrees. And my transmission was at 170 to 175. My truck temp gage stayed where it always does, unless under a heavy down-shifted load, at the first line before 210. As I wrote previously, I know that my fans come on at low speed as soon as I turn on the AC. And BP programs the fans to come on at low speed at an engine temp of 216 on, 209 off. And High speed at 225 on, 217 off. So, I turned my AC off intermittently to see if the engine temperature would go up and it never changed. It makes me wonder how much that clutch fan was spinning and using horsepower, even when it was unloaded, when it wasn't even needed. Or maybe the bigger radiator is the difference. Today I made my first run further, pulling my 21' toy hauler trailer on the HWY at 65 miles an hour up several grades/hills. One reason I upgraded all of this, besides the little bit of extra horsepower, was that before this, when I would pull my trailer over this same route, my transmission would down shift, my engine would go to 4000 rpm and if stayed at 4000 for more than a few minutes my engine and transmission temps would sometimes hit 120 to 125. And I did not like the sound of my engine in that state. Today neither my engine nor transmission went over 110. And my engine sounded so much better without the clutch fan. Even idling it sounds better. To be factual, today I was not as loaded down as I would be for a long camping trip and the outside temperature was only 70 degrees. But there was a very noticeable difference in the amount of downshifting and the temperature rise. Also, I checked my battery voltage when first starting the truck the first time, with the new alternator. It was reading 12.7V not running and 14.7V running, as it should. Today while pulling my trailer, I turned on its running lights and the AC to try and get as much amperage load as possible. At no time did my voltage gauge drop at all. But, since my engine never went over 110, with the AC on and fans at low speed, my fans would not have ever needed to come on at high speed. That means that I still don't know if there will be a voltage drop when I am pulling a heavier load and both fans go to high speed. A few more notes on things I learned. I didn't know that the old fan shroud bolts would not work for the new fan assembly so, I had to go to the dealership to get two more of the radiator bolts. The BP instructions tell you that you should change the O-ring on the AC Schrader valve that the pressure switch you'll install goes on. I also got that at the dealership. The instructions didn't mention that when installing the pins into the PCU you'll need something sharp and no larger than the size of the pin to punch a hole through the weather seal of the ports that did not already have a wire in them. I used a Phillips screwdriver about the size you'd use for glasses. One other difference from the instructions I ran into was that where the new relay assembly mounts, next to the relay/fuse box, I had an extra connector mounted under where the new assembly was supposed to go. So, I had to make an extension for the bracket where your supposed to mount the relays and I was able to mount them about 2 inches higher, over that extra connector. The case fit over this with no issues.
@@bpautomotivellc I’ve put 3 sets already it gives me a p0300 and it lacks power I put in a new set works good for a day and then it goes right back to no power hesitates I put new wires also! The only thing I haven’t change are the plugs! But there is spark coming out from each coil which means they are working but maybe not 100%
If you know how to build a harness properly in 1 hour with one person please, by all means, tell us about it, I mean all of the major harness factories will probably want to know your method as well since that would be about 4 times faster than most for a proper LS Harness build. As always we greatly value your professional harness-building advice! We want to learn from all of your harness-building experience!
Not for an application that has a TCC Brake Switch circuit like this. The signal that the control module is looking for is the opposite of your brake light signal.
Actually, the camera I am using is made in Japan. Where a camera is made is far different than where an engine harness is made. Thank you so much for your comment that has absolutely no substance or relation to the video. You should go find videos on subjects that you know something about to comment on.
