I agree! Craftsman USA were great tools. The forging companies you named were solid. Easco was extremely good before Danaher bought them out and changed the selector switch and push button quick release to plastic.
I hate it when people think their time is always worth more than doing something themselves. It's usually just an excuse for being lazy. You don't learn anything thinking that way as well. Awesome restoration!
Really enjoy your videos. I have rebuilt many and still enjoy watching you do it! I just like seeing someone else who takes pride in restoring these beauties.
I agree with the posts that said use motor oil not mineral oil. My dad used to do this and he would heat the tools up just short of changing color and then drop them in a bucket of used motor oil. They used to spit and splatter when they first hit the oil but they turned out almost black. He told me that the dirtier the oil the better it worked.
"Cutting Nippers" is the official name in Dasco's 1925 catalog for the model 310. The same in the 1947 catalog but in 47 it says they're Dipped in Rich Black Lacquer with Polished Heads.
Motor oil is used for hot bluing. Linseed oil is better for wood, although I use motor oil for wood as well since it darkens both the metal and the wood, and I love it.
You are right, but I tried and I learned and maybe someone else did too, I do not mind showing my screw ups, if someone else can get something out of it, that's great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They turned out really nice DJ. I always use motor oil and heat to achieve a dark protective finish. Try laying the tools on a gas grill to heat them up before dipping them in motor oil. It works for me.
Yea, I think next time I cook on my pit, I will use the coals to heat the tool up and then dip it in some old used oil! When I say my pit I have a 48" round by 24" deep, so I can have a big fire going!
I am willing to bet your friend confused boiled linseed oil for wood and used motor oil for metal. I have 12 cleaned up tools and I am preparing to lay them on my gas grill before dropping them into a deep bucket of used motor oil. Nice video.
I kind of agree with you but I tried, plus I showed it so if anybody thought about they could see, I am going to try old black used oil and setting the tool in a bed of coals next time!
You may've been in a hurry but you paid attention to the shape of thing. That diamond-shaped neck is iconic and is one of the things that make an Estwing what it is. It may be a 15 oz. hammer after all the polishing but it's still the shape the designer intended with crisp lines. It's not all rounded over and smeary. That made me smile.
I have what looks like the identical ratchet I bought sometime in the 80's or 90's. It slips and jams. Of course there was no Sears around when it failed, so I just chucked it in the drawer with other stuff. I was going to take it to Lowes and get a replacement (I keep forgetting) but I'm going to give her a go at seeing if it's just gummed up first. I like things I can fix.
When I do a clamp with threaded bolts Like parallels, or just 1 like a c clamp, I take paper towels saturated with the cleaner I am using one of my final steps is putting the solvent soaked paper towel on the threads, then press my fingernail into the paper towel and jam the towel into the thread with my fingernail and chase the thread that way it's entire length. I press another clean part of the towel into the threads frequently, maybe 6-8 times over the length of the screw. I bought a half dozen very ugly looking Hargrave clamps that had the business end of the clamps and the swivel pad covered in a thick black coat of what reminded me of Plasti- dip, but super thick. The remainder of the clamps were total rust. I was going strip all that stuff off, but chose to leave it on because that stuff allows the clamp to do what it needs to while providing a degree of protection to whatever the clamp is being used on. So, I Evaporusted the Rusty part and blued that and left the rubber coating intact. I was very pleased with how the clamps turned out.
Looks great DJ. I would've paid $10 for it because i know how to do what you did to it. Plus if you think about it you can't buy a new Chinese made Craftsman 1/2" ratchet for $10.
Nice job you did what you could for it more than what most would do you gave it a second chance at life and its still a usable tool im glad you put the emphasis that crescent wrenches are not for high torque applications thanks for sharing my friend
May sound like a stupid question but if the socket detent no longer springs back( the button is stuck down), is there any fixing it? My guess is no since that part is a sealed unit?
@@djstoolrestorationssorry I wasn’t direct with my comment. I’m having the same issue. I’ve tried to free mine up for some time. Pb blaster, kroil, and a fine wire brush in the push button. The button is still stuck down, but the detent ball has spring action to it
@@mkearn724 Sorry, I see what you are saying, I have not had one in a long time like that and it was only one, at the time I was use 6 percent vinegar to clean my rust off of my tools instead of Evap-o-rust, I just chucked it in the vinegar overnight and rinsed it off with baking soda and water solution the next day and it was loose, I may have just got lucky or the rust just busted loose not sure! if you use vinegar DO NOT leave in there for more than 8 hours!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I think it's the angled piece on the jaw that slides into the rest of the tool. I think if you filed some off of that angled piece it would slide in and fit. I think it's from the wear and tear. I could be wrong but it seems to me that's where the issue is. Either way great job! Thanks for the video as always Ps. I like to put the locktite in the hole the screw screws into that way you don't get any in the knurled piece while pushing it through 👍
We called this adjustable wrench a “slip off”. As apposed to a snap on. They have an intended use but just not for everything. A good hand file is indispensable in a shop. I just found some good quality hand files at an estate sale and I threw my 40 yr old dull files away.
Even these old good quality files were not made to last forever. There is literally nothing that can be done to fix a file when the teeth are gone and it becomes plain flat at certain places. Some say to use it as a pry bar. Nah..
Only recently did i try bluing, i became addicted in short order. I use the same stuff from Wal-Mart with great success. So far i have done two machinists parallel clamps and 7 2&1/2" Hargrave clamps. Every clamp i have done so far i bought very cheap off of ebay because they were all rusty. I used Evaporust on most of them, but also ran a couple of them through a bead blast cabinet. I use denatured alcohol to clean them and wear thin rubber gloves to prevent contaminating the tools with oil from my hands. I too have had great success just like you did.
You did better than me, I always forget to put gloves on! what kind of sandblast cabinet do you have, Have one from Harbor Freight and it SUCKS!!!!!! hate it!
@djstoolrestorations Those two went through a buddy's cabinet, which is a HF. His works fine, and yours can too, but not without several upgrades. You upgrade the gun, gloves, add high intensity lighting, change the drain in the bottom to allow for quick dumping aggregate to change to other abrasive choices, add a good vac, caulk all seems to reduce leakage. That is most of what you need to do. HF blast cabinets are more of a project you buy, then improve ALOT of stuff, and add more upgrades to get a good blast cabinet.
Just finished a couple 8" C clamps the other day. When you find good ones they really do clean up nice. I really gotta get myself some of that bluing! I just keep forgetting. Ill do that now! Have a good weekend, DJ!
That looks great DJ. Nicely done sir. I'd be proud to own that little C clamp. My local Walmart carries 3 in 1 oil but it is with the tools and not with the rest of the oils and things of that nature. I didn't think they carried it until one i needed some socket rails and saw it with the tools. I also get it at Ace True Value Hardware stores. They always have it.
Looks good, I've never blued anything, as a matter of fact I've not bought any tools lately to cleanup, I've been too busy to do a little pawn shopping.
