Noticed that you did not show how to deal with the old installation. Also, what to do if you get a wearing issue when trying this method. Would it be better to take out panels from the inside and see what you're working with ?
For the first time I'm really seeing potential problems with inexperienced DIYers doing this job on their own. If you don't know what you're doing you could really have a serious issue before too long as things settle.
Really good explanation! Now can you do one on how to do all the related plumbing for a whole system? I need to replace several sections that are not currently connected!
As of 2024, apparently the 3M 'stick' style tests have been discontinued. I just paid $13 for a different instant test kit containing 2 small test sheets (1/2" x 1/2") and an empty eyedropper. Theoretically, you could cut the rest sheets in half to double your number of tests.
Hello, I would like to kindly refer you to two authors on Hydronic heating circuits. Dan Holohan has written “Pumping Away” which refers to the most efficient side of the expansion tank the circulator should be on, and “Hydronic Radiant Heating, both excellent books. Another outstanding work is “ Modern Hydronic Heating” by a P.E. John Siegenthaler. I have noticed you have no pressure and temperature gauges to keep track of the temperature differential which should be kept around 15 degrees, supply vs return temperature, and circuit pressure which indicates circulator pressure above the circuit static pressure of 12 psi. Best Regards !
The problem I have with all these tests is that by cutting it, aren't you disturbing the paint and therefore releasing lead dust into the environment? and will the lead dust continue to be released once you're done?
HI. When changing a zone valve does the "pipe" part have to be changed, too??? I have 2 zones. I had to replace one zone valve 2 years ago. Yesterday I had to replace the other one. ONLY the mechanism in the box & wires were changed both times. Zone valves were 23 (2021) -25 (2023) years old.
Can someone please help? I installed a new gas bolier recently. But for some reason the boiler is running without reading the thermostat. Is this a faulty wiring or something to do with the boiler installation? The thermostat is getting power, it reads the time and measures the temperature in the room, but it doesnt regulate the house temperature set on the thermostat with the boiler . Its set at 70 but the house temp is 90! Is this a wire burnt out or is it a faulty installation?
////////Please: can you create a video, how to get the part number and the best websites to order parts for furnaces and how to order equivalent part if we can't find the original part? thank you
12 years later watching this video, as a homeowner I certainly learned about the need of fresh air supply for combustion, also effects of a negative pressure which causes carbon monoxide poisoning. Thanx for the lesson. 👍
This is one of the best videos I’ve seen yet explaining the external components. Thank you so much for sharing this. It has definitely helped me for school.
WOW... Brads really got a feel on how to pack those cavities... all he has to do is watch his progress through the plexiglass. I guess now I'll have to replace my sheetrock with plexiglass. What a stupid deminstration!
The Dorsel ring is in the wrong position and must be easily accessible by reaching over the shoulder. Also, you need to have your ''breast strap'' underneath your breastplate. Any higher, your creating a noose for hanging yourself.
I’ve done about a month and a half of -40/+- in N MN weather, multiple times. It has many similarities to Alaska. The Great Lake may play a part in it? If you don’t like that idea of living, we’re fine if you pick another place. “MN nice” is real, but isn’t bottomless. 🤔😁
More information which might be handy:. What were your are settings to get that capacity? How much insulation did it require to fill that one wall? How do you calculate how much insulation you will need? Nice music by the way, thought I heard it in a porn video.
To echo what others have said... Most of us... Well, none of us have a plexiglass wall in our homes and cannot see how well we are packing. How about a video that applies to most of us where we have a hole at the top or center of a cavity, or perhaps the upper 6" of the cavity cut away because we had to run electrical or data wires thru the wall but want to insulate it before putting the rock back up? In the latter example (which applies to me), how would you recommend keeping the insulation from blowing out from the large opening at the top? Would you put the hose all the way to the bottom? And then slowly pulled up as it fills? Would you go ahead and close up the hole and then cut a smaller one for just the hose? Would you maybe make a temporary 'cap' for the top opening so you can fill to the too, then remove the cal and replace the rock? What about using this in an exterior wall cavity (like in Texas)? Would you recommend, or not? What about vapor/moisture barriers? How do you go from a bigger holes which is normally the host that you get when you rent from Home Depot or Lowe's, down to a smaller size hose? Great video, but still many unanswered questions.
