Got the correct precision McMaster rods (do the research) and all of them are just tight enough and only cost me $40 for all of them, that's taxed and shipped .223 ,9mm , 30cal and 45. Even cut them down so I got 2 sets for rifles and pistols. But hey it's your money do what you want.
@@oneijack98 The .005 makes a difference. Esp on a longer can. Go ahead and do what you want. Plenty of folks on FB NFA groups have posted and shown pictures of how they get baffle strikes after they thought they were good because their McMaster rod was “good enough”. Use the correct tool for the job. The Griffin rods are pretty inexpensive and you can even wait for one of their sales to make them even cheaper.
Yeah you don't need that last click. AAC themselves came out years ago and explained this. Even if there is rotational movement the can is totality fine.
Mine has a metal rod jamming... I managed to boil the pencil than remove the tip but then I got stuck. How am I supposed to make this metal rod go back inside so I can put lead in?
Of course, by holding the lower section of the pencil stationary, with the point facing away from you, and then twisting the upper half of the pencil counterclockwise l, that rod should retract, and clockwise, extend. Maybe remove the upper part of the pencil to expose the inner section and then turn that inner section. See if it turns freely. gently turn it in each direct until it stops. If the rod is still not retreating, that's probably a mechanism failure and you would need to contact Cross.
Be sure to inspect if your instrument actually needs a .5mm lead instead of trying to make a .7mm work. A digital caliper helps here and my father-in-law was making this mistake and jammed his with the thicker lead. We cleaned it out and got it working with a .5mm. This video helped us understand that the tip can come off and we went from there. Thank you
You want to use a set of calipers to measure the diameter of that to 0.001” and let us know what that is? At different places along the length of it. And how straight is it? Plenty of people using McMaster rods have had strikes because they are not the correct diameter and not straight enough. But you do you, maybe you’ll never have a problem.
7/32nds is theoretically 0.21875”. Doesn’t mean your drill is made to that spec. And use a good set of calibers to measure it. I’m using a Starrett, not something from Harbor Freight.
For a Glock or similar no, the barrel cannot be removed from the slide with this installed. It’s easy to remove it, though, should you need to. For a 1911/2011, yes, since the barrel comes out the front of the slide.
Removing accumulated lead, copper, and carbon helps to prevent the can from locking onto the mount, and prevents misalignment. If you have a bunch of fouling on the teeth of the mount then the teeth of the latch don’t have as much to grab onto. It doesn’t directly help extend the life of the can, per se. If you can afford the ammo to wear out a good can, esp one with stellite or inconel baffles, then you’re a lucky person, and you would just need to sent it back to the manufacturer to get recored/serviced. Regarding legacy AAC cans, you can have them rebuilt by the new AAC. It’s not cheap but it makes them almost entirely new and perform better. They are also doing latch repairs. Since the new company is not the old company there will be a fee, about $100.00, and they make it easier for the user to DIY down the road because the modify the blind pin setup so you can drive the pin out the other side. The resto mod program also make the back end hub compatible, and they also offer their STAMP mount so you can use hub cans with 51T muzzle devices. Good stuff from the new AAC.
Thank you so much for this. I inherited a set from my grandpa and they're from 1978, but for about a year the pencil hasn't been working but this video just helped me so much. I was just crying over othing 😂
I can relate to how you were feeling. It does justice to your mom, dad, grandma, grandpa, whoever was important to you, to give new life to this piece of art disguised as a writing instrument so it can be used again, when it seemed like that wasn’t a possibility. I’m glad I could help!
Many thanks I think I fixed it. I also damaged the tip. I heated it, but still was damaged. Not sure how to take it off without damaging the tip? Thanks again
You have to do a little trial and error. That tip is smooth so it’s slippery, You have to find what works to get enough grip on it. Take a set of pliers, apply a couple layers of duct tape to the jaws. Then get a thick rubber band and wrap that around the tip. Use the pliers carefully to try to loosen the tip. If it won’t come loose easily enough, heat the tip up again, and let it set for a bit.
Many thanks! This video helped me fix my inherited Cross century classic pencil, which had the same problem. So happy to be able to use my dad's pencil again
Thanks a ton for this video. To clarify, you have to manually put in a new piece of lead every time it runs out? That is, there's no sort of auto-feed, correct?
None at all. Give it a fair shake (not just 1 shift) and see how it works for you. 6360 is still a good holster., though. What was frustrating me was the reholstering with the WML catching on the holster but once I figured that out (insert at an angle then rock it in), no problem.
Hi, and thank you for sharing the video. I would like to ask if you ever managed to fully disassemble the cross versatile 0.7mm or 0.9mm pencil mechanism; when I say fully disassemble, I mean the mechanism inside the body of the pen? I may need some advice on one issue; therefore, I am asking.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mOq6f8LKFsA.htmlsi=B3u2MSr-8o5hfDHP aye brother make you could help me identify what the piece of plastic is for at 0:22 if you pause the video, it’s the curved piece of plastic im talking about
It's not good to force it going to that valley of the last tooth. The slop in the device helps save it from getting damaged or the locking mechanism on the can getting broken. That's why an NT4 is so durable and reliable and can be shot and shot and shot and never have any issues getting the can off the mount like she companies *cough cough* Silencer Co *cough cough*. Going this right could give you issues getting the can off the mount if shot a lot. Leave it with the slop. It's better for the mount and the can.
Exactly. Let it ride in the last valley *that you don't have to force it into*, not the last possible valley that you got it there because you forced it there. There should be a little bit of rotational play. To quote John Hollister "it's a retention system not a tensioning system".
Object like fingers, keys, etc. getting into the large gaps in WML capable duty holsters and causing discharges with holstered striker fired guns has been a problem since these types of holsters came out many years ago. Totally predates the introduction of the P320.
@@forcesolutions4154 what other gun has gone off in a safariland I'm positive that the sig wasn't even in the holster when whent of maybe sig should put a safty on the trigger. But that was quik of safariland to come out with a options for less iq people that use holsters lol 😆 😂 🤣
@@charles17508 This holster was first publicized at Shot Shot 2023. That’s Jan, 2023. It obviously had been in development for a least a year prior to that, probably more. This predates the Sig issues of which you refer to. One of the problems they are addressing is the ability for a suspect to get their finger into the gap between their legacy WML compatible duty holsters and fire the holstered gun during a struggle over a holstered gun. Which has happened and does happen and can happen. If this is not important to you, then no problem, you are not the target market for this holster. Some other things I think they were trying to address include to make a holster with injection molding and not heating/bending/shaping kydex (like the 6xxx series holsters, which came out in 1996). IM can be much more efficient to manufacture, if you have an economy of scale that pays for the molds. They tried this with the 7 series holsters, but they lack rigidity, which has been a problem esp with the smaller WMLs, and resulted in retention failures in the real world, which caused them to engineer a retrofit to add some rigidity and for which they issued a service bulletin. This new holster is very rigid.
@@charles17508sigs go off when jarred too hard. Being in a holster doesn’t help. An officer had his sig kicked while it was in the holster and it went off.
Good point. I suppose that they have done the math and figured that if they encourage people to disassemble these things they might have more problems that they have to take care of? Regardless, for people who are willing to fix things themselves, it would be great if we could just buy the parts to fix them ourselves. All the best to you.
It’s worth it to use proper tools and gauges. Do you use a torque wrench when installing things? Or do you just guess? Do you use red loctite, or Rocksett? Silencer Forums have lots of people have used the McMaster rods and regretted it when they had a baffle or endcap strike. It would have been worth it for them to spend the extra money instead of having to deal the effects of that. It sure sucks to blow up your can. Some cans, if you damage them, depending on where the SN is, and depending on what kind of damage, can’t be repaired, they have to be replaced, which is another $200, the price of the can, and a yearlong wait. But let’s say it’s something that can be repaired. Great. But you are still inconvenienced for awhile by not having it. Maybe you were planning on using it for that hunting trip and now you can’t. Furthermore, when get a strike, where did the projectile(s) go? That can be a huge safety problem. Regardless, user error is not the manufacturer’s problem. If you put diesel in your Corvette, not Chevy’s problem. If you fire a 300 blk in your 5.55 rifle, not the manufacturer’s problem. You are an adult, you do you. If you do choose to buy a proper bore alignment gauge, Geissele has sales quite often. And while I’ve not personally used them, the Griffen Armament ones are quite affordable and I’ve never heard a negative word about them. Good luck to you, amigo!
I love how you have your kid putting in their two cents. Kids and Animals RU-vid loves them all. Great channel name. Thank for the info. Exactly what I needed. Try one didn't get cap off but not giving up. Luckily I have a spare.
No no problems at all. Was out shooting with it today, incidentally. Just get it tight enough in the first place and it's not going anywhere and once it gets warm the metal expands and then it's really not coming off. I did use a paint pen to mark the can and put that at 12:00 and check it about every other mag though just bc I'm paranoid
You can do it that way, and that is a good way to do it, and this will result in a little bit of rotational play, which is NOT a bad thing, as my shoot videos show; if you then shoot a few mags, the new carbon buildup on the muzzle device and in the threads of the can will reduce the amount of play. Alternately, if you put the can on so that the pawl is past the valley but NOT past the top of the next tooth, the can will loosen and the pawl will fall into the valley. Alternately, it happens sometimes that the pawl gets past the top of the next tooth but not by a lot, but by enough, and this can result in a nice, tight fit. The fit can also vary by how much carbon, copper, and lead has accumulated on the mount and in the threads of the can. So be sure to clean the muzzle device and the threads in the can. I use a welder’s brush to clean the muzzle device, and a plumber’s pipe cleaning wire brush to clean the threads in the can. Sometimes I use a dremel with a wire wheel brush, but I don’t overdo it.
Love the look of the aac 3 prong man🔥🔥 is the ring on them really that bad? I was thinking of getting another dead air 3 prong because it has 0 ring. I don’t have the tools to modify the aac and am not really trying to send it off to have someone else mess with it.
most people don’t like the ring, so go with the DA. I use the AAC 3 prong mounts bc I have cans that fit them. Also, if weight bugs you, look for something lighter. All these 3 prongs are about 4.x ounces and are a bit heavy for what they do. If you have to have zero flash, then it may be worth it to you, though.
Peeoii - got your reply via google mail but not seeing it here. “How tight are your muzzle devices? 20ft lbs and higher cause barrel constriction. AR15 tech tips in under 8 mins has a video “the dangers of over torquing flash hiders” very informative my groups got tighter by .5 moa when I loosened my flash hider from 35 ft pounds to 17ft lbs and applied slight amount rocksett”. Per Barry Dueck of Surefire, going over 30 ft lbs can compress the muzzle, so I do not go over 30. For bolt guns, I will use 20 ft lbs and for self loaders, I’ll go 25 but no more than 30. For a bolt gun I’ll use 1 drop of Rocksett and for a self loader I’ll use 3 drops. I always dry fit the parts and check with an alignment rod before committing installing with Rocksett. For a AR, you’ll want to use a Geissele reaction rod, or something similar to keep the barreled upper from rotating. Never use a crush washer with a can. If you are using shims to time a muzzle device, dry fit everything prior to using Rocksett. Hope that helps.
AAC Blackout 3 prong FH. They are about 4.4 oz and quite effective at killing flash signature. There are many similar FH’s on the market. Anything with 3 or 4 fairly long tines will work well. Some people don’t like the ring that they produce sounds like a tuning fork when you fire a shot. Some other, similar FH’s do this and some do not. You can modify them so they don’t ring, but the ring doesn’t bug me.
@@forcesolutions4154 I appreciate the response, I’m not getting any of those rods because I have been looking at getting a bore straightness gauge from PTG, I’m also looking into muzzle erosion, muzzle concentricity and a few pin gauges
@@forcesolutions4154 thanks man, I was thinking about the Geissele though if I were to get one, is it only if you’re planning on mounting a suppressor? or is it good for flash hiders/breaks as well?
Cool, this is what I was told as well. I have the 556-SD and the flash hider attachment in your vid as well as a muzzle brake on another gun. Was told go to the last valley. I can turn hard and it does stop and not 'wiggle' but it seems to be up on a 'tooth', which I was told would just wear it away as well as the latch itself in use, so the last valley with a little play was fine. Don't know if it adds more change of impact point.
CGS Mod 9 can comes with CGS piston in 1/2x28. Griffin makes a piston for the CGS Mod 9, to attach the Mod 9 to a Griffin EZ-Lok muzzle device. They make the EZ-Lock muzzle devices in a variety of configurations and for a variety of thread pitches.
