Budget-minded vehicle maintenance, troubleshooting, diagnosis, refurbishment of electrical, mechanical, engine, body, brakes, suspension, exhaust, interior, audio, steering, transmission, and any other systems associated with vehicle maintenance. Parts acquired at junk yard, parts store, or refurbishment of existing parts. 2000-2004 Nissan Xterra 4x4, 2002-2005 Honda Civic, 2003-2007 Honda Pilot, Ford Ranger
i have been working on mines for about a week (evenings for a few hours) recording video washing parts. i saw a trick to keeping that gasket in place by spraying adhesive spray on it, that way it doesn't move when trying to line up the upper plenum
Thank you very much. I've been looking for a video for almost 10 months that would show me how to remove and replace this part. Here in Brazil, no one does this service and shows how to do it. The workshops that perform the service charge a lot and the specialized ones are in the city of São Paulo and I live far away in the capital of Brazil in the Federal District. I didn't find anything on RU-vid. I also have a channel where I show you how to do things yourself in your car. When I go to change I will film it and give you credit for teaching me. I think your reservoir is missing a Teflon ring on the pressure hose fitting. I still haven't found this ring for sale and mine is crushed. My car is a 1995 Mustang 5.0 V8. Once again, thank you very much for filming all the steps of the work.
That high pressure line has a Teflon O-ring that goes over the threads and into a grove near the nut head. Kind of like the O-rings do on the valve. I just did this job and the old pump had one and the new one came with a replacement ring. There's also videos on here showing the Teflon O-ring if you look for them.
Not really able to do that. I listed the main hose in the description. I asked my AutoZone if I could go look at the hose selection in the back several days, and that was a big help.
2 weeks ago I replaced mine Started right up. It was pretty easy. Except for the ring at 1st. I tried a regular hammer, wouldn't budge. I went 2 a sledge. Came off easier. A few days b4 i removed bed bolts, they were a bear 2 remove. Been in there 21 yrs. I kept soaking them in wd-40 for a few days waiting on pump 2 come in. They went in No problem. I tried a few times on the filter but had difficulty. Tools I bought weren't fitting properly. Local shop installed 2day for $84.00. I think I'm good 2 go..I also replaced fuse, relay & inertia switch. Plugs & wires also. Cleaned throttle body. I'm a RU-vid graduate. LOL
Well it probably took me longer than most since I had a hard time getting enough leverage to get the tensioner locked into place. Pressed out the bushing without issue. Put in new pulley and then just had to deal with getting the belt on, too much crap in the way. THANK you for the replacement video, I should be good for another 80,000 miles. There was nothing wrong with either pulley, but I wanted to replace the belt before a trip. Thanks Again.
there is a maintenance mode procedure from the driver seat (key on, gas pedal, e-brake to off position, key off then back on) to disable the e-brake so you don't have to take it apart. the e-brake will retract in maintenance mode. look up "2016 Ford Fusion Electronic Parking Brake Maintenance Mode Procedure"
What could be the cause of the blockage? I justed rebuilt my front brake pistons and they no longer qork. I'm hoping this video is my solution. I know the rear ones work because I've had to use my handbrake to stop my car as I'm testing my brakes. Will try this now and report back. Fingers crossed.
You probably have tons of air in your brake system is why they don’t work after rebuilding the calipers. The blockage in this video was buildup in the vacuum check valve attached to the brake booster.
@@ijfim Believe it or not, it was a mud wasp nest that was built in the brake booster hose! I work on my cars outside under a carport and there are lots of those guys around. I pulled out the engine and the car was sitting there for about two weeks. They're harmless, except they love to build their nests in any type of hole. I actually anticipated this and plugged in all hoses with some paper towel, even this hose, but I didn't catch it in time. Thanks to your video, I blew compressed air and the nest was blown out and now my brakes work perfectly!!! You are the man!
Somebody was throwing it away on the curb! I cut that foam out by hand to set all the tools in place. I have another video on my channel describing how to do it with a different box I have. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fXwaL2y-yjU.htmlsi=8m7gxomjKfiy-u2s
I just took that hose off. I was able to get the clamps off enough to cut the hose with a razor knife. Then I discovered the lower connection was rotted off so bad I needed a new main thermostat housing. It has two 10mm bolts behind it that I reached by using 2 extensions fished back to the fire wall and ratcheting by lying across the engine on a.old cushion. I did not take the intake off. But I did the timing belt and water pump which ment removing the radiator and shroud and fan and covers🤪. Luckily I replaced the rear hoses when my transmission was out for a new clutch. Also my Frontier is lifted probably 16 inches including a 3" body lift and a solid axle swap on lifted leaf springs. So I was on a ladder for everything.
I haven't had heat for two years, in -30F winters. I'm pretty sure my vacuum line was cut into that valve. I can finally check and then clean the heater core and replace that damn valve. Thanks for the info, I couldn't figure out where that damn line went to.
The FSM states to use a large breaker bar or connect an extension to your ratchet using a socket to break the bolt. Basically, if you do not put enough torque on it, it will feel like it's stuck.
2008 V6 Camry here... I wish I had watched this video before I bought the entire tensioner 😂 I watched a few videos on replacing the full tensioner and did not want to go that extensive of a repair. Then I found this one which only replaces the pulley. Easy enough, but it was a tad tougher for me because I only have a small vice for doing the pressing of the spacer. All in, about a 2 hour job (but I work slow and have a long walk to get more tools) While I was in there, I replaced the lower idler pulley on the left. It was dry and rusty and you could see the bearings. So I'm not sure if my issue was on the tensioner or idler, but my car is quiet now. Been years since the 08 Camry was in stealth mode. On to another 233k miles! Thanks, man 🤘
He goes through the trouble of replacing the terminals but doesn't clean the dried battery acid from around the posts. A little baking soda and water will neutralize it and extend the life of the new termimals. Spray some protectant on the terminals and you can eliminate acid buildup and corrosion.
Very cool video. I really like the tool box setup. Currently lifting my 2001 frontier and needed some insight on the torsion bars. Thank you for making this video. 🙌
OK, but that battery is in the constant state of discharge if you don't clean it off. Don't believe me? Take a volt meter, one lead to ground, then touch the top of that filthy battery with the other lead.
Mines keeps stalling I’m at a loss. Has New Fuel Pump New Fuel Filter New Idle Air New Fuel Pressure Regulator New Mass Air Flow Sensor New Coolant temp sensor and still Stalls always fires back up runs good then coming to a stop will randomly shutt off. Always fires back up??? Any ideas
I have the same problem. Most ppl say it's water pump. After detailed check beneath the car, it turns out to be the tensioner itself. it vibrates, moves back and forth and makes squeaking noise while on load. I will try the lube method to see if it's gonna be quiet. i think it's a common issue for similar models. Don't go for water pump first!
any potential harm from lube?how is your tensioner doing after 1 year? No more noise? I do hear noise directly from the tensioner itself when it wobbles. thanks!
I am experiencing the exact some problem. Did you fix it? If so could you tell me what you did? I was going to try to just tighten the tensioner bolt but wasn't sure how.
I followed the instructions you gave in the video. The only thing the brake light was flashing so i engaged the parking brake and realsed it and everything is normal now. The parking brake went off. THANKS For the Video it helped out alot.👌🤝
You had a very helpful video, so I wanted to ask an unrelated question: I just had a bit of a scare with my 2010 Camry because I only recently got it as a gift from my Great Aunt. I was testing the range on the 'arm' button while walking to my car, but when I tried to 'disarm' the locks nothing worked and I had to unlock it manually. This of course triggered the alarm and eventually locked the engine, but later my dad was able to fix it (somehow). The crux is, how do I safely engage and disengage the locks, and how do I stop the alarm? (Sorry for the word vomit)
@@ijfim i have to replace the knock sensor, so i have to remove the lower intake to get to the sensor. I have it relocated at the moment, but want to put it back to factory. Some smog places here in California wont smog it, if it sensor is relocated. I found a place that did, but if sell the truck, i don’t want someone else to have issues. It doesn’t pass the visual inspection. Mechanically it runs great and doesn’t throw codes. Since i am there, i want to replace the valve cover gaskets that leak alittle