Here you will find a wide range of woodworking and do-it-yourself topics, including: wood gear mechanisms, wood gear clocks, cyclone separators, dust collectors, modification of tools for dust collection, tips & tricks, home building and repair, electrical & electronic, building the John Smith Senior 20 Organ, antique vehicles and more.
I am a Mechanical Engineer, graduate of the University of Missouri at Rolla, fka Missouri School of Mines and Metallurgy. I lived and worked overseas for over 20 years in the Oil & Gas Service and Mining Industries. I have an Amateur Radio License and have built and flown radio controlled airplanes for over 40 years.
My videos are as informative as possible while keeping them to the point and as brief as the topic allows. I hope you find them interesting, informative and entertaining. It is for you to determine if you are qualified to do these projects and to follow all requisite safety practices.
This video really helped me as I am building a machine and thought I had got myself in a bind when my motor was turning in the wrong direction. Thanks it was an under a minute fix!
It is not available. I am showing you what I have done. You would need to design and make your own slip ring suitable for your specific purpose. Thanks for watching!
No, not as demonstrated. The "rubber cup" on the end of the tachometer centers itself on the motor shaft so the motor shaft and the tachometer shaft are concentric with each other... turning on the same centerline. You do need to hold the tachometer parallel to the motor shaft while taking the reading. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron
I did not go into the electronics of the midi player and how it works in the videos. If you play the mechanical keyboard, the mechanical action operates micro switches via pull-cords which in turn operate the pallet magnets for each pipe. This is well documented in the videos. If playing a midi card... the card is inserted into the Midi Reader (the card reader is the white box on the right side of the organ) which is connected to the internal Midi Driver Controller which is connected to the Magnet Drivers. Each note in the music file tells the system which magnet driver is to be actuated to play that particular pipe. The Midi Driver Controller and the Magnet Drivers can bee seen in the video Colonel Bogey March ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I8cY-D1cNqo.html at 0:38 and again at 2:06 in the video. So... the magnet drivers are either controlled by the Midi Reader Files or directly by the micro switches operated by the keyboard. If you were actually interested in build the organ, more information regarding the electronics would be available from Klinger Organ www.klingerorgan.com/about.html Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! Ron
I think this is the only version that will do F vs C.... They have AC/DC versions, and also have a temp/humidity version, but, I think it is C only... These same controllers are marketed under the MH and ST models ie... ST-1000, ST-3000, etc.. STC 3008 DC12V Temp/Humidity
The "spring" is a tiny coil of steel which quickly loses its tension. I've had mine for less than a year and I have to manually pry them back open between cuts. They're useless.
This does not contain a coil spring. It is a flat metal spring. The clippers are stowed in the locked-closed position. Therefore, when locked closed the spring is always in compression. I have three of these and my friends have several more. After more than two years they all function perfectly.
The ET7 is the same as M94 I show how I slowed it down in the following video. You may be able to slow down other engines in a similar manor. I suggest you get your engine at EngineDIY and I have a discount coupon code in the description for this video. Eachine ET7 Hit & Miss - Slowing It Down ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qTt-4Q_XoQM.html
very nice work, almost looks stop motion when its moving! Had a quick look at your other videos, very fun stuff. I've been interested in the idea of a complete carved wooden skeleton that would have some sort of control system (thinking such a thing may have been used for educational purposes back in the day) but couldn't find many examples, so I suppose actual skeletons were easier to get hold of, so this has been great to see.
Follow the instructions in the Byrnes Table Saw video for the main part of the dust collection adaptor. Then the tapered part (that the shopvac hose plugs into) is described in the following. ShopVac Hose Wood Adaptor - Dust Collection ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g_9ooi4QvCE.html Also found in this Playlist: Dust Collection For The Shop ru-vid.com/group/PLFC2634B7E35828E5 Just follow my idea... mostly made from scrap I usually have laying around. I made a similar adapter to fit the tapered body of a Black And Decker cordless screwdriver. Clock Winder - Cordless Screwdriver ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CM_czw79oQA.html Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron
Have bought 2 of these, 10 yrs ago. One is in the shower, exposed to moisture, and started flickering recently. It will start up fine but flickering after a few minutes, perhaps due to heat buildup. The other is also in a place not used frequently, but still works fine. My advice is, don't bother with fixtures with integrated LEDs. It just becomes a hassle to replace, vs a simple standard led bulb.
The length of the antenna wire is important for receivers that are tuned to a single frequency (or a very narrow band of frequencies). These receivers usually use antenna lengths on the order of a quarter of a wavelength, (or and odd integer multiple of a quarter of a wavelength - 1/4, 3/4, 5/4, etc.). By increasing the antenna length to anything other than an odd multiple of a quarter of a wavelength, you reduce the antenna's effective gain. By grounding the shield at the circuit board, the effective antenna length is simply the length of unshielded wire that hangs off the other end of the coaxial cable. In addition, the grounded shield can significantly reduce the amount of interference picked up near the opener.
I have shown you what I have done. It is up to you to figure out any changes you wish to make on your own. Have fun! Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. Ron
I didn't realize these went bad and as a trashman I would find these thrown away and i had probably 10 or 15 andzwas saving tgem for a later project and every new can had went bad, i figured it was like paint
will this help with the snow damaging ur gutters..cause the snow comes down and messing gutters up. Roof came with house but was wondering how can I stop it from damaging the gutters because I will be replacing my gutters soon. Also is there a specific gutter size or brand that is made to compensate the amount of water coming off the roof when it rains?
Regular shingles somewhat impede the flow of water off a roof. A metal roof is like downhill bobsled run... water runs off it quite fast... and so does a sheet of ice or show when it breaks loose. The outside edge of your gutters need to be below the line of the metal roof. So if you place a straight edge on the metal roof, the outside edge of the gutters should be approximately 1/2" below the straight edge. So if it rains really hard, some of the water may overshoot the gutters a little. Little balls of sleet or hail will mostly go right past the gutters but the snow and ice will not shear the gutters off the side of your house. The snow stops slow things down so the whole sheet of ice or snow won't come off all at once... which can be quite dangerous and that is what I had happening on the sun side of the roof before I installed the snow stops. The other consideration is roof penetrations like PVC sewer vents. They should be as high up on the roof as possible, otherwise the weight of a sheet of ice can shear the pipe off flush with the metal roof. A metal roof is great and you will avoid many roof replacements after several hail storms compared to your neighbors, but there are a few things to look out for. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel running! Ron
The diluted bleach kills off the algae and whatever else in growing in there and hopefully gets into the pores of the concrete and neutralizes what is in there as well. By the time this is done the diluted bleach is pretty much spent... but who cares if it absorbs a bit into the concrete. :-) Thanks for watching!
I’m using one of these shades pole (dual shaft) for my own version of a Leslie rotating speaker. It’s a 35w motor and spins freely, but with a 300w lightbulb in series with the live wire (a current limiter) the bulb glows just bright enough that I shouldn’t look at the filament. After five minutes mine gets hot to the touch as well, so it’s good to see a motor worked out for you. How heavy a load is yours driving?
Not sure what you are trying to accomplish with the "current limiter"... slowing down the motor? Sometimes limiting power to a motor will cause them to heat up and/or burn out. My motor is driving a geared mechanism but can't really answer you question "how heavy a load". All I can say is the motor has sufficient power to drive the load. Don't know where you sourced your motor. These are purpose/application designed motors and the surplus motors available out there vary greatly between very weak to quite strong. All of these will need a cooling fan if they are running for very long. If you need to turn something in your speaker slower, I suggest you forget the light bulb and use a set of gears or a drive belt reduction or look for a shaded pole gear motor that turns slower (stronger motor with more gears in the gear box). Some are strong enough to hurt you... such as a rotisserie. Another method could be to use a stepper motor, which can be programmed to run different speeds. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron
My mistake for not explaining the current limiter, I didn’t want my first comment to be too winded; the bulb I’m calling a current limiter is seperate from my motor, it’s a circuit with an outlet that plugs into your wall to place this 300w 120v bulb in series with your live 120vAC, and it will flow to dissipate large amounts of heat if you plug in a device with a partial or a dead short. I wasn’t after anything technical when I asked about the load, not an answer centered around data at least… is it for a tumbler? For example, what ls the diameter of the drum and how much weight can it be expected to turn? Whatever the load may be, does the low starting torque of these motors cause yours to get up to speed slowly? Do you allow for any belt slip? The good stuff is always in the details, who needs data? Lol
My experience with these motors is they will either start or not start. There is no slowly getting up to speed. If they don't start I suspect they will heat up much quicker. I have not built a drum tumbler. Following are examples of applications where I have used the shaded pole gear motors. These are pretty strong gear motors and unfortunately the source has dried up. Closest thing I have seen to one of these is for a BBQ rotisserie. Closest to stalling out one of these motors is the Busker Organ Air Supply. Marble Machine - Ring Gear Lift (wood gear reduction) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QzIG9stFXSI.html Marble Machine Teaser - Pin Gear Roulette (wood gear reduction) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--W4Na9FgPeE.html Flat Disc Electrical Slip Ring (shows view of motor installation) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w8bDha0szIY.html Spray Can Paint Mixer (gear motor direct drive) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BFow88VJxn4.html Building The Busker Organ - Motor Drive & Gears Part 4 (wood gear reduction - the largest load on one of these gear motors) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-59MszwTeDvI.html Building The Busker Organ - Manometer Test Part 5 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cnQvvG5P7Hs.html Senior 20 Organ (25) Making The 17 Front Pipes (near the end - using the Busker to test organ pipes) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hsWXo6BfDM8.html Rewinding Filament Spools For 3D Printing (belt drive used) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-03euMYrIv7U.html
That’s my experience too, as you’ve stated these motors are very inefficient and they have very low starting torque; hence my questions about belt slip to allow slow spin-up of a loss it couldn’t otherwise drive directly, as in a gear pulley system instead of a groove pulley system. I’m dealing with grooved pulleys and belts, where as you’re clearly dealing with gears in many of your projects. Thanks for the links to your other videos by the way! I checked out the marble tower, pretty cool. I’m not sure what your motor source was, but these are the extremely common motor found in many refrigerator condenser fans, kitchen/bathroom vent fans, microwave cooling fans… This type of motor you and I have are generally below 1/4HP and about 40 watts. If it’s the gearbox you’re after, that wouldn’t be hard to DIY, especially considering your level of DIY includes a lathe… lol What is your source? And do you know the RPM of your motor(s)? I’ve found a free app for Apple that lets you adjust your cameras frame rate to match/determine the RPM of something. Pretty useful!
