Is the extruder itself printed? Are you willing to share construction files or your design? The print consistency looks astonishing. Very well calibrated overall - nice job. Also nice seeing a non vase mode print, because those are way more complicated and need a lot of calibration.
Thanks! Yes, you are right about vase mode - I want to be able to do whatever I do on a plastic printer with the clay printer, and take advantage of all the features in slicing software (I use Prusa Slicer). The extruder itself is a combination of printed parts, off the shelf parts from OpenBuilds, heavy duty motors and a couple custom made metal parts. I post the printed files here: www.printables.com/@Lauhaus_133918/models I don't have a build guide or BOM or anything like that. Maybe someday. The extruder is extremely heavy when loaded so I built a printer where the build plate moves on x and y, so that the extruder doesn't have to move except in Z. Because of these design choices the extruder wouldn't work well on a typical printer like a Prusa or something. Its built more like a CNC machine in terms of size and mass
@@TomLauermanthat makes so much sense now that you do not get any ringing-the extruder is not moving. More than the extruder, I would like to know more about the movable parts of your gantry. Were there any printers that you took inspiration from?
Haven't tried it, but I love the idea and would like to give it a try. Would likely need to build a smaller extruder as that material is so expensive. Thanks for the suggestion - if I try it I'll post it!
@TomLauerman it's on my list of things to try if I ever get/make a clay printer. (Not good timing now), but at least the bronze clay is better priced than the other PMC clay like silver etc. I look forward to watching it if you do it!!
@@pauljones9150 I use cake frosting tips for the print nozzle, so replacements are very cheap and available at any local grocery store or Michael's/Walmart/Target, etc. All clays are basically tiny rocks plus water, so all clays are very abrasive.
Could be possible, but I'm personally committed to clay that can go through a firing process and a glazing process and become glazed ceramic. I do love room temperature printing too
@TomLauerman completely agree, and I will build or buy my ceramics mentors each a clay printer someday. I can't wait to see what they create with them.
@@pauljones9150 cocoa press is a really cool project. There are similarities, as both are basically fancy syringes. I'm glad to not have to use heat in any way
Thanks! The volume of the clay supply cylinder is about 35 cubic inches, not very large. I kept the supply small in order to be able to extrude through a small (by clay standards) nozzle with an opening around 1mm. It is possible to change out the clay tube in mid print, as one would change a filament spool that had run out in plastic printing. The printer has a print volume of 12" x 12" x 15" approx.
@@TomLauerman Very cool. My math brain isn't turned on right now but that sounds like it might be enough to print a small mug, possibly cortado size. Exciting! I would love to see more about your current setup.
I literally cry when the minute 20 arrived! Congratulations Man. You realized one of my dreams... But I'm still where you wore in 2015, since i bouth my first printes last week. Things in Brasil goes a bit slower 😊
How do you prevent clay prints from warping while drying, particularly for hollow pieces like cups I’m printing with a 3mm nozzle and all my pieces have a couple degrees of warp after drying
@@samm6149 I sometimes dry things for weeks, or even longer. I'll cover on plastic bag or place in plastic bin that is close to air tight. If you are interested in drying faster covering with an old t shirt or other breathable fabric is a good way to go. Slows drying and keeps extremities from drying much faster than rest of form.
Nice, but i wouldnt go for cartesian, because the bed ist moving side to side, wich will result in a wobbeling model, due to mass inertia of the model. A core xy, where the bed/model ist only moving down, or even better a Voron Design , where the bed/model isnt moving at all, might BE the way to go.
Well done I like to see diy innovation. I know you’ve learned a lot in this process so congratulations. If you ever want a aluminum version let me know and I will machine for you. Gives me an excuse to make one for myself.
Thank you Glenn, for watching and sharing. I'm always tempted to make more metal parts, but then I'm always changing part designs and I couldn't bear to throw away good, machined bits. Maybe someday though, sounds fun!
Hello, I love this very simple machine! On Thingiverse in July 2018 you explain in detail how to make the extrusion head. But I don't understand how the extruder above works! How the plunger moves on the lead screw ? Would you have a schematic to help me to understand? I thank you for your answers and for sharing your knowledge. Charles
@@thediamondkneeplate6981 No worries, and wouldn't want you to feel stupid. Just wanted to say settings aren't sussy when considered in context. Cheers
Wow, what a wealth of information and great presentation. I must know more about your extruder setup. I see you are doing the larger tube with plunger/lead screw setup but how does the stepper that actually controls the extrusion at the tip work? I'm working on a project when I'm building a 2D axis inside a toaster oven to be able to add condiments to my toast while toasting and I'm in need of this extruder setup.
Thanks so much for your interest Kyle! I designed and built this extruder setup. It uses a large tube of clay which is advanced by a very powerful stepper motor, like a giant syringe. This is synchronized with an auger screw in the print nozzle which helps dispense the clay in the right volume, and minimizes oozing. I use a Duet control board to manage the extruder and printing
@@TomLauerman this sounds awesome! Have you patented this design or do you know if it has been? I have so many ideas for use cases now that I have seen this.
@@MarianoXXL Utilizo una impresora que diseñé y construí, por lo que no es un modelo disponible comercialmente. Sin embargo, recomendaría mirar las impresoras de estas compañías: StoneFlower3D, WASP, Vormvrij
In the monochrome object shown at 15:17 , I had rather thought of the usual use of double print heads, where one print head acts only to print support structures. Another question that perhaps escaped me in the spoken text, that is the use of tixotropic agents. However, a stationary print platform would probably be more suitable for this.
Very cool! PSU Alum here - I've been playing with 3d printers for about 2 years now and my favorite part about it is how many directions it can be taken.
I'm using a DIY printer I designed and built and modified over the years. Those printers pop up in some of my other videos. I don't need a special slicer, just special settings within a slicer. The slicer I prefer is PrusaSlicer. Thanks for your interest!
With geometry nodes in Blender 3.0+ there are now ways to parametrically spin a curve so you can non-destructively create a vase where the only thing you need to edit to change the form is the Bézier curve defining the profile.
Yes, indeed, and I am loving geometry nodes. This video is intended for people with almost no experience in Blender, however, and I find geometry nodes can intimidate new users sometimes. I hope there is utility in learning both the new and older ways of doing things, but I'm never sure that's true. Thanks for your interest!!
So these issues were mainly caused by dewatering of the clay? I’m working on ceramic printing research at my college and we are trying to solve the issue of the clay separating and pulling into those curls during our prints.