This channel documents my journey in learning 3D printing, electronics and robotics. I include videos showing my original projects and tutorials on this channel. I share homework videos for RU-vid courses I am following on my other RU-vid channel: @LorisHW.
No matter what I try [reload, restart, reinstall, change cable] my Pico does not show up on the drives. It did initially but now a day later it doesn't. Any guidance please? BTW Win11 and all up to date. VPN off ... NO sign on device manager ports either. Help!
I don't use Windows so I am not in a good position to help. Most issues folks have are with the USB cables. You mention you changed the cable and it did work the day before. Do you have a raspberry pi? You could try to work with the pico on that and see if it shows up on the RPi. OR if you have access to a second computer to give it a try on that one. Of course - it is possible that the pico is bad - somehow got "fried" when you were working on it the day before. They are pretty cheap so getting a second one to work with might also be helpful to diagnose issues like this. Hope this helps. Good Luck!
I prefer the hybrid version - a bit easier to read IMO. But it would be straightforward to adapt this to be pure binary as shown in the start of the video. Thanks for watching!
@@lorisrobots Been thinking about this and I am going to try one in Octal ,the advantages are that you get 30 octal hours in the day each of 73 octal minutes each of 73 octal seconds. Just think how much more you can get done.🙂
@@richardturton6900 Sounds interesting - make a vid once you get this project done. Folks would be interested in seeing it - I know I would. Good Luck!
Well presented ! From my experience you can use label 'LED' with oridinary Picos (aka non-PicoW) as well. I did stumble over that when trying to run the same code on both Pico and PicoW recently
I believe you do not have this level of jitter on Arduino or Pico as you do on an Raspberry Pi. The RPi is using software generated pulses. I believe the Arduino and Pico will use hardware generated pulses. That was the key to stopping the jitter on the RPi was to send hardware generated pulses. Hopefully I have that right - still not an expert at this stuff.
I want to upgrade my RPi5 too. I've been looking at the Argon40 case to add the SSD; but, that board from Pimoroni looks nice too. I'm like you, want to use the RPi5 (with the 27" screen) for programming. These "old eyes" aren't what they used to be. Thanks for posting. Have a good day.
Had to laugh when you talked about upgrading your Pi5. I have my Pi5 kit taunting me on the shelf above my lab. Never been opened! Obviously it was an impulse purchase. I have my Pi3 still setup from Paul's classes and I have used it a time or two recently. I have not come up with a reason to use the Pi5. Thanks for the video.
Nice kit build. I have been looking around since you have built the synth and now the piano. I have found where you can get multiple tones (up to 3) out of the Arduino Uno and even a guy that created a 4 voice synth on an ATtiny85. You are still stuck with buzzer type sound so probably not worth the effort. Thanks for the video.
Ooh - please share the link on discord! I am moving on to some different projects, but am traveling lots right now so it will be late summer before I do any new projects. Thanks for watching!
Another great video Lori! So is the end of the (mis?) Adventures in Soldering series? If you are superstitious ending on number 13 might be a problem. LOL.
This is not the end of the series! I have a several more kits to do. But I am hitting my "camping season" lull. Don't have enough time at home to complete more projects right now. Hopefully I can get a few done over the summer. Thanks for watching!
do you reload the code for each ? could be an initial button press, e.g. lowest numbered pin for synth, highest numbered pin press for piano, but code would need some rework, or add a connection on led board which informs arduino that synth is wanted, also could add 4 leds to piano board with seperate ground rail and resistors.
Oh, Lori 🎉🌞 always nice to see you doing these projects .... I would like to ask you, how to solder the ESP32 chip on a microcontroller ? I have an microcontroller but the ESP32 is not soldered, it was like a kit everything separately 🤔 but if I see these chip's legs, there is maybe 0.5 mm distance between the legs, and maybe 40 of them around the small chip 🤔 🙉 .... I have no idea how to do it .. hahaha 🤔🙉 😥😥 ... continue your nice videos pls , when i see you it is how I am doing my projects 🌺
That sounds like surface mount soldering. I have not attempted that kind of soldering yet. I would suggest you search up some videos on surface mount and see if that helps you out. Thanks for watching!
60000UL => 60K unsigned Long ? forum search said yes, nice kit, hope the adafruit expansion works, like a led (or 2) to show tempo, need more adc then arduino mega has 16, and/or just buttons, 1 button 1 note
I hadn't seen "60000UL" in code before - seems to work as 60000 or 60000UL. "unsigned long" seems right to me. Part 5 is the adafruit expansion (wingshield) and it works great as you will see. I do two expanded projects in Part 6 - one with LEDs blinking to the tempo and a basic piano out of button switches. I put these on proto boards for permanent use as well. This was a really fun project for me. So much more can be done as well. Thanks for watching!
"ifconfig" is a great command for finding out your local ip address from the pi. if you have a windows machine hooked up to the same network then Advanced IP Scanner will show you everything attached to your network and they have a manufacturer's field so it is easy to pick out which is the raspberry Pi
Nice build. A better technique for that bigger capacitor that is intended to lay on the board: pre-bend the legs. Figure out what direction the legs should bend. Then hold each leg with needle nose pliers right against the body and bend each leg down 90°. Then insert the legs into the board and use a piece of tape to hold the capacitor in place like you did for the amplifier chip and potentiometers. This gets the bend perfect the first time and keeps the bend away from the body of the component. For electrolytic capacitors that isn't a big deal since the legs come through a rubber base, but it is a good habit to have, so when bending legs on a rigid component you don't risk cracking or damaging the body of the component right where the legs attach.
I ended up with six episodes for this one. Added another shield from Adafruit to use the unused GPIO and extend what can be done with this kit. Lots of possibilities! Thanks for watching!
You have chosen well with that Hakko iron. Replacement (and different shapes) tips are more readily available (and more affordable) than the Weller. (even though both are quality brands)
I love it so far - switched the tip to a more narrow pointy one - like I had been using. Turned up the temp a bit. Works like a charm. Thanks for watching!
Upgraded from an old Weller iron I had to the same Hakko about a year ago ... works like a charm . Best of luck honing your new skills on the upcoming projects .
Hi Lori, Nice mailbag. I have never had a Hakko station. I could never justify the cost. I have the knock off version that I got for $40. Thanks for the video.
My first one was about $25 - it worked OK but this Hakko is really nice. I figured I am soldering lots now so can justify the cost. Thanks for watching!
@@charlotteswift Looks like they have gone up in price since I bought them 5 years ago. They are now going for $50-$60. They come in a few brands but all have 939D in their model number. I have not had any problems with the 8 I have for the solder classes and they get moved around a lot as you can imagine.
those arm crocclips, can rotate so the work piece can be angled, would be nice if the croc clip rotated in the arm but that might be too flimsy, but a second pair of clips (holding the work piece) being held by the first pair might be the solution.
I have more clips and they would help hold it very steady. Now I am using a PCB holder that works great. I use that in the next series of soldering videos. Thanks for watching!
Great job as always Lori! For my solder classes I already have lots to setup with 6 stations (irons, stands, flux, solder, copper mesh tip cleaner, side cutters, smoke eaters and all the extension cords and power strips) so I go low tech with the work holding. I use blue silicone mats to protect the library tables and an inexpensive cotton washcloth folded in quarters to lay the PCB on. I have the students work from shortest parts to tallest. The cloth does a good job of softly holding the components in place. Even if they go out of order you can scrunch the cloth a bit making a taller spot then place the short component over the hill and it works pretty good. I have several holders in my lab but I mostly use the cloth now myself. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing your kits! I like your low tech approach. As a beginner though, I was very clumsy with iron. I needed stuff to be held tight. As I am getting better with iron, I am able to handle items not always being held tightly. But I do love my PCB holder which I use in the next series of soldering videos. Thanks for watching!
Be careful! You could damage the RP2040 doing this. The recommended max current across all GPIOs is 50mA, with all 20 LEDs lit you could be sourcing between around 60 and 100mA!
Interesting - can you provide how you calculated the total mA sourced? It would not happen very often that all 20 LEDs would be lit. So I am wondering how big an issue this would be.
@@lorisrobots It was a rough estimation based on assumed values for the voltage drop across the different LEDs. If the orange LED drops 2.2v, blue 3v and green 2.6v, each with 220 ohm resistors then with all LEDs on it will draw 62mA. Given you're coding the time to BCD, not all the LEDs will be on at the same time. The max current would then be 43mA. It depends on your LEDs, but as you can see, it gets pretty close to the maximum allowed current. The voltage drops I used in my calculations were just typical values, so if yours are even slightly lower then you could easily have an over-current, or if someone watching were to use orange, yellow or red LEDs for example (or lower value resistors) this would exceed 50mA a lot more often.
@@WayneBagguley Thanks for your reply! The voltage drop for the LEDs I am using is orange 2.2v, blue 3v and green 3v. This yields a max at 49mA with all LEDs lit - which happens for only a brief time (a second?) as the clock operates in a 24hr day. The best way to go is to use 330 ohm resistor for this circuit - which is what I normally use for the pico and leds (max with 330ohm is 33mA - if I did the calculations right). I think I just had a lot of spare 220 ohm resistors when I made the circuit. I will add a warning to the description to advise folks to use 330ohm or even higher. The LEDs are plenty bright enough. Cheers.
Me alegro de que haya sido útil. "Glad it was helpful" - I don't speak Spanish so I hope this translated correctly! ¡Gracias por mirar! "Thanks for watching!"
Great job Lori!! Keith's board is cool. I like the little pegs you have to hold the PC board up to solder. Looks easier than trying to use the flex arms with alligator clips which is what I have now. Thanks for posting!
I agree about the magnetic PCB holders (pegs). They work great and came with my helping hands kit that also included the flex arms as well. I definitely use the pegs more than the flex arms. I will show a PCB holder in Episode 9 (I think) that I love to use now as well. It was pretty cheap ~$15. Stay tuned for that and thanks for watching!
the board holders seem to be working out fine, adjusting the led position, could do them all 1 leg, set the board vertical and then reheated while pushing ...
Yes, I can make it work by being careful with the orientation of the board during the reflow step. My new PCB holder will debut around Episode 9. The PCB holder (flipping style) is much easier to use for this kind of work. I have been very industrious and have made quite a few kits. 😃. Thanks for watching!
Lori, I got to watch the premier with my morning coffee. Great job on my little board! I had never used a decade counter IC before and wanted to give it a try. As I do with all my circuits I first did a proof of concept on the breadboard. This board was a first iteration. From my EasyEDA page linked on my blog (heart-follower), I had plans to make a future iteration as a heart shaped board to be used for some February solder workshops. It is on my todo list. Thanks for the video.
It is a great first soldering project! Thanks for sending me one. I plan to study your circuit design as I start to spend some quality time learning the 555 timer (probably this summer). The next two episodes will be the other kits you sent me. Thanks for watching!
@@lorisrobots Sorry, I meant to say "I" need to get the magnetic screwdriver. Between my big hands and the tremble in them I've developed of late, I almost always have to ask for help with the small stuff. You're doing great with your projects.
