Just another small you tuber trying to have some fun and hopefully teach you something during the process, Kerry and I share the same passion for the outdoors and camping specially in our Land Rover / Opus setup that we are currently running
I'm a Qualified Diesel mechanic with a massive love for anything DIY that will save me a few Bob i will try posting any new projects that i start and if requested give you a rundown on some of my older ones
@user-dt2up9wo4u correct the actual sump is a 10minute job the 2nd part of the sump the part that bolts to the trans, block and oil pump is definetly alot harder to pull. Unfortunately for us that's what was leaking
@user-dt2up9wo4u the black sump pan you can remove very easily if that's all that's leaking but if it's the main part as described above then it's a right pain if your doing it in the car front diff needs to be removed
@alinvlaic191 looks can be deceiving there was very little 🤣 off camera I was swearing alot 12 years in the trade can also make things look a little smoother then normal also pretty used to working in annoying situations like that now Have done 1 more turbo since with the same tool felt pretty similar have you pulled all the head shields off
@@OUTBACKDiscovery I tried building a tool like yours but I did not have enough space and then I built another one with half an inch drive and still not enough space so then I welded a spanner end and then it worked perfectly
@alinvlaic191 as long as you got it done in the end 💪 Mine was 3/8 drive and half of the 3/8 head had to be cut off for it to fit in the gap if that makes sense
@nextlevelude normally when that's happening they need a good clean out sand can be a big issue with them When pulling the handle out I normally hold weight on the handle and shake the leg a little bit to help free it up
@@OUTBACKDiscovery I managed to do it with a little help from people on Facebook, a flat head screwdriver, elbow grease and a couple of insults muttered at the thing. Thanks mate.
🤣 I'm guessing your in the UK or Europe somewhere ?🤣 Dropped that cross member on a fair few over here in Australia and because rust isn't to much of an issue here there always friendly to me when doing so haha
Thanks for the video, very helpful. Small point-the gas strut seals will last longer if you install them with the rod down. See Camloc video ‘how to mount a gas strut’
Morning Mark that is good advice and I did take this into account but it only works when I have the rack lifted up which was how I intended to have the solar panel setup whilst at camp I figured that it would be setup more that way then when I had the rack flat for transit. When the rack is lifted in the air and solar panel extended you will see the rod end facing downwards slightly In hind sight I ended up using the gas struts more when parked up for visiting spots and going for works so I should have mounted them around the other way for the amount of use I was doing with that 🤣🍻
Hey man! Hope this finds you. Do you think this tire size would fit if you hadn’t done the new springs? I’m considering upgrading tire size but would like to keep suspension stock.
Hey hunter I think it would be fine I test fit these before the lift and I think the only time it would rub with when aired down on the beach But even then it would of just rubbed on the mud flaps
One more question if you don’t mind, you mentioned that your rims are a pos 20 offset. Do you get much poke? It’s hard to tell from the video. Where im located all that is available is pos 12.
@hunterjensen4359 morning Pos 20 kept the wheels flush with the fenders just.. Pos 12 will get you put the rim slightly outside the fenders not by much but by enough to flick dirt up your car whenever you go on a dirty road * which is what I was trying to avoid
Great work …. I had one of those bloody cars …… now I have a car from 2006 that’s not a Landrover and no signs of needing repair . Because it’s not a Landrover . But I like your great work you’re a terrific bunch of mechanics. It ain’t easy working on those things .
Thanks for the tip on making the tool i was so temted to just pull the moter today i cant thank u enougth But on the one im working on they weld an nut on one of the pipes also giving me an headace
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Oh yes. Next out-of- my-own-workshop job could be fuel injectors. I have some 225 000 km in the ODO and the engine runs nicely, but uses quite a lot of fuel. Might try cleaning the intake even though it requires some work on the fuel lines. Afraid of letting some dirt in the injectors. Keep up the good work :)
Brilliant video thanks just replaced mine and noticed previous owner had run heavy black sealant inside the cowl/ scuttle along the entire length obviously to stop any water passing into engine bay/ air vent so I might do the same now realizing that is a potential problem if I don’t 😉😜
Great video Ryan. I’ve got a 2016 tezza diesel and wow the map sensor was so gummed up. Can you recommend anything else parts wise apart from the coolant cross over piece and latest spec oil pump?
Sorry only just seen this comment now The imjector fuel return line gets brittle and can eventually snap leaking diesel onto your exhaust. I'm pretty confident this is the main cause of all the discos you see burning down on the side of the freeway on Facebook
Great Video mate, plenty of helpful step by step instructionals and tips along the way. Question for you, which im sure could have plenty of possible problems/solutions. 09 RC Colorado 4JJ1 Manual 280k km. Under load (hill climb) RPM alot higher than normal with minimal increase in power/speed. Just trying to narrow down possible causes. Clutch feels normal. Thanks in advance.
Mine was slipping intermittently, turns out the input shaft bearing on the gearbox was leaking oil into the bellhousing. Oil came out of the inspection ports on the bellhousing. Clutch is shagged unfortunately even though it doesn't appear to be that old. Perhaps make sure your bellhousing doesn't have any oil in it. Or you could just have a shagged clutch that's due for replacement.
thanks for video, very informative! thanks heaps ,how many km on your rover ? how did your car go after drain and replace fluid? also i have a rrs 2010 tdv6 3.0 ,same tranny i think ! , my questions is where did you get all your parts and fluid from please ????
Sorry about the late reply the business I bought my stuff through no longer operates Although it's the same make transmission in the 3ltr ita the zf8 speed rather then the zf6 speed my disco had so it takes a different oil but the servicing process is still the same as the video My disco had 220km on it but I bought it with a bad transmission so got it rebuilt at 140km and dropped the oil every 20km after that and serviced with new filter every 40km This is excessive for daily driving but with all the 4wding and beach driving I was doing it was necessary For a daily driving vehicle I recommend every 50-60km transmission oil and filter change and rhat will keep your car happy
Dear Sir, I just watched with great interest part one and two of the clutch replacement in the Colorado and firstly a GREAT job. I also have a 2009 Holden Colorado with 140000klms on the clock and the clutch is now due for replacement ( my Colorado has the 3.6 litre petrol engine in it and not the diesel engine ) I have just booked my Colorado in for the the clutch kit replacement next week, so therefore your RU-vid video was timely. I simply do not have the space and the required equipment at home to do it myself, ( mostly the space ) also my clutch slave cylinder is leaking and that has to be replaced also. Given that I am not doing any serious 4WD with my Colorado and rarely tow anything with the car I have been advised just to stick with a standard clutch pack kit. Thank you for posting this video, I learned a lot
Done a engine replacement on the petrol v6 colorado it's a bit easier to access most things Top bellhousing bolts are a bit tight but if you angle the gearbox down its easier to get tor them
But definitely understand not having the time I'm falling short of that myself lately hence the major lack of posting videos the last year haha Good luck with your clutch replacement 🍻
@jeremywhite779 100% honest answer is fuck no Loved the trailer but build quality was shit wiring was shit, suspension was shit and leaked water and dust However when I fixed everything myself it then became an amazing trailer. But the fact that I had to put a large amount of hours into a 28k trailer is disappointing If I went again I would just buy the mdc forward fold for 18k Still things that need improving on them but we're a better build quality overall and plenty of service places to get any warranty work done
Do not torque the shaft nut to 350Nm. It will destroy the wheel bearing. There is a reduced torque of 230Nm from Land Rover. This revision came about because of premature front wheel bearing failures. Good video otherwise!
Couple of things I've learned since then, the oil pump on mine was wrong and failed chassis serial numbers meant nothing so physically check yourself for the oil pump with the reinforced sections Landrover giving me the seriel number failure range seems to be just a number they came up with themselves haha Everything else is valid
You are seriously making me think I should do this myself, cant justify spending 6k or more to get the shop to do it. I have a D4 zf6hp26 with a leaky transmission pump & making a high pitched noise... need to get it out to do a DIY rebuild but im most concerned about getting the box out in the shed!
I havnt come across one but honestly never had an issue with the factory fuel filter not being enough I changed mine every 15k * which is every 2nd oil change for me* or after I've got back fron a big trip and fuelled up is a some remote areas to be safe though
Hi Ryan, I enjoyed your video. Do you know why there are black marks on your old coolant bottle? My 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 shows the same thing. People say the oil cooler is the problem. Have you had any problems?
TQVM for this video. i am using same dmax model with you but education video about this model are too few and difficult to fond. TQVM again. Waiting your next video using this dmax model
Hi bro great vedio. I wanted to know if The LR3 transfer has its own CPU. If I bought second transfer do I also have to buy a CPU for the transfer. I changed my transfer and someone told me I need to forvthsy CPU of the transfer please advice
Hey sinasamar sorry I'm not to sure to be honest Trasnfer case does have it own module but I would of thought that you could replace the transfer case without replacing the module
