You have to take out all the flaws if you want them to look good period. I have the perfect wheel to do this. Also drills and grinders no not me. Get a old compressor motor extend shaft. Turn your wheel. Not the machine.
I'm not sure what you mean.. but I'll take a couple guesses. The backside of the wheel? just mag wheel cleaner and a good scrub. Inside the slots? mine are machined.. I've seen some that are not.. Just a clean and polish with the powerball.
Man I can’t wait to do the slot mags on my old 72 Ranger XLT…😍 I was wondering if they would shine up real nice. I did the weld draglites on my mustang and then I would clean them and polish them maybe twice a year and it didn’t take nearly as long after the first time. Thanks for the video, I was wondering if I could use steel wool to remove the heavy corrosion and you answered that! Thank you!
It seems steel wool is not the preferred method, but honestly, they’ve held up pretty good. They need polishing again, but still look good and have not had any care since 2016. I’d like to get around to making an update video. Thanks for watching!
We had 4 of these on our 1974 nova. We cleaned them up with steel wool and just shot them gloss white. Looked real good too. I don't think they even had buffing balls like that back then.
Lighter fluid, or naptha is good for removing the adhesive. When I did my wheels, after cleaning, scrubbing, sanding n polishing, I taped up the slots, (mine were round holes, similar to the Peterbilt wheels, going on my 72 Chevy C10) And all the openings on the front of the wheel, then I painted the backside using high gloss black engine paint, resistant to oil, water n gas. This treatment gives the front side more contrast against the black backside and the holes or slots just pop, giving it a more highly detailed look, n the imperfections are hardly noticeable. I've gotten many compliments on the way they look. Good job sir. It is a labor of love. The more time you spend with them the more shine you get out of them. Almost chrome looking...
@@urjb Thank you for your comments and posting this video! There's a RU-vid video that shows a 1/2 in compression fitting 8an to 3/8 in npt adapter that changes the oil cooler line clip fittings. I would like to just remove the lines all together as you have demonstrated.
When you finish with the first wipe and get the heavy off use a clean rag I prefer cloth diapers put some cornstarch on the rag it will take all the polish read and give the wheels a great luster
So...here are the 3 things I do with ALL my model 1911s, which includes 1 Charles Daly (Armscor) pistol identical to your test gun except for the name on the slide. 1. Use Wilson Combat magazines 2. Polish the feed ramp on the frame and chamber mouth with "Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish" and a fabric buffing wheel on a Dremel tool. 3. Replace the extractor with a Wilson Combat "Bullet proof" extractor. Adjust it as the instructions describe. I have done this for 3 Colt, 2 Kimbers and the Charles Daly pistols I own. They are all 100% with any ammunition I have fed them, including my usual practice loads of a 230 gr. cast roundnose bullet. It is MUCH cheaper and less time consuming than a 200-500 round "break in" period. At current prices (2022) the parts will cost about equal to 1 box of ammo. (not counting the magazines) Except for the 20 minutes needed for the polishing, it is basically a field strip, cleaning and reassembly proposition. While you are changing the extractor, get inside the firing pin and extractor "tunnels" with some good spray cleaner and a "straw" to blast out the gunk in there. A pipe cleaner helps cleanout those places also. You need extra magazines anyway, get Wilson Combat mags. ***For ARMSCOR pistols ONLY (Armscor, Citadel, RIA, Charles Daly, Cimarron) replace the firing pin spring with a Wolff standard firing pin spring. Why? Because these guns are "70 series" handguns with no firing pin block. They manage to pass the "drop safe" test (required for all imports) by using an "extra strength" firing pin spring. Combined with some gunk in the firing pin tunnel this can easily result in "light primer strikes". If you are concerned about losing the "drop safe" feature, then add $15 to the bill and get a titanium firing pin. *** Armscor pistols seem to offer really good value for the price, and really don't require any "tuning" that other, much more expensive, 1911s don't need anyway.
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I got an old work truck recently and of course I wanna polish it up and make it look sharper LOL so thanks for the video exactly what I expected to polish them out but now I know I'm not gonna ruin them LOL
