Helpful installation and DIY videos from Sunnyside. Everything to do with polycarbonate and acrylic roofing, pergolas, gazebos, outdoor blinds, shade sails, and retractable awnings.
Is there a fastener which lets to fasten solar panel brackets to which aluminium panels will be mounted with panels? I have a pergola quite big enough and I'd like to put solar panels on that pergola instead of the house as I do not want water leaks in the house.
Hi there, generally your solar panel brackets will come with fasteners for fixing to a roof. Usually it'll be a system that has a washer that goes between the bracket and the roof, to prevent leaking. For polycarbonate roofing you'll need to make sure this washer is large enough to cover the expansion hole. You might need to purchase oversized washers. Thanks, Kurt.
@@sunnysidenz I have wooden planks 80x50mm, so decided to take 20x3mm steel flatbar cut into 120mm pieces. Make 8.5mm holes at the ends so that 82mm distance between holes. Using threaded rods 8M clamp the flatbars and make holes 15mm in corrugated sheets. in the top part of the rod put pair of nuts and between those nuts leg which will be holding the rail for solar panels. PVC 0.7mm will be plaing role of the oversized washer.
Hi there, I used a ladder from the deck and reached across each sheet to screw it down as I went. Another way would be to use a board on top of the rafters / purlins. The sheets are too flexible to put weight on them. If you really need to get on top of the sheets (e.g. to clean them at a later stage) you can put a drop cloth down, then a large sheet or plank that goes across a few sheets / purlins so it spreads the load. Thanks, Kurt.
@@sunnysidenz Hi, thank you for replying. I will be trying to fit polycarbonate roofing sheets . I’ve been racking my mind on how to reach to fasten them down . The roof dimensions are 2.6 metres x 10.6 metres. As the sheets need to overlap. The last fixing is left, for the next sheet to go over . That’s when I’m wondering how to fix down? If that makes sense?
Hi there. Yes I did use a Dektite on the pipe. I didn't use an apron flashing at the top edge as there wasn't enough room. I could have used a back channel flashing, but I opted for putting foam infill in-between the sheets and the soffit. This has stopped any water or leaves from going up and over that edge. It's a closed cell foam so is watertight, as long as it's held tight enough between the sheets and soffit. Thanks, Kurt.
I have foam infill strips up the top, in between the soffit and the top of the sheet to stop water being blown back. You don't need to use them anywhere else on an open structure. The only other place you might use them is down the bottom, if you're enclosing the sides and want to stop water and debris coming in the gaps. But if the sides are open then there's no point.
No worries Andrew. It can get quite tricky with longer lengths. First thing is you definitely need to clamp the straight edge down, it's too hard to hold at that length. If it's Twinwall you're cutting, a knife will still be fairly easy. If it's Custom Glaze or acrylic, then using a circular saw will be easier. I don't have a video for that (yet), but there are a few on RU-vid. The finer the blade the better, and I find setting it on a shallow cut works well. You can also use a jigsaw. Or even a handsaw if necessary, it just takes a while. Regards, Kurt.
Thanks! Just trying to complete a video to release soon, and I've been trying to find the plastic screw caps I used to install my multiwall-honeycomb 8mm polycarbonate sheets, (with the rubber donut that goes under them) But can't find them anywhere!! I hope I can find these metal screws with neoprene and washers with neoprene tomorrow... Do you recommend a special screw for this or NOT recommend a particular screw, like zink or stainless? also how big should the expansion hole be? I'm having this crackling noise in my gazebo, you can watch my video to see what im talking about. when its sunny or sunny and windy, the crackling is bad, its not super super bad like ive seen in some videos, but id like it to be 100% quiet. I'm hoping its just the screws, but im also reading it might be because I didn't put anything like a tape between my polycarbonate sheets and my purlins. Could that be it? I know theres a few screws that are on there too tight, and I know I made the screw holes the same size as the screws, so these are the two things I'm trying to tackle and fix before releasing my polycarbonate roofing video to show people what NOT TO DO. Thanks for your help. Also, if you wanna be featured in my video as the expert and give me some pointers or recommendations, I'd be happy to discuss!
Hi Mateo :) Hopefully you found some suitable screws for the multiwall. You need something with a large metal washer and then a neoprene washer underneath. And since it's outside it needs to be either galvanized or stainless. Either one is fine. Stainless will last longer, but galvanized will last longer than the sheets anyway. In terms of cracking, there are a number of causes. One of them will definitely be the screws not having an expansion hole. You'll need to drill a 12mm expansion hole first (about half an inch). Also, the screws may be too tight. The second thing might be no room for expansion in the joiner. Is there a bit of a gap for the sheets to move in that joiner? Happy to help out on one of your videos :) I'll DM you.
I'm looking to replace a clear corrugated pvc roof. The timbers are already installed but not to vertically every 4ft however there are horizontal latts going across so can the multiwall just be fitted onto the latts?
Hi there. Yes, generally it can be fitted directly on to the horizontal purlins, as long as the joiners that you're using are suitable for that. It should show in the installation instructions for your system whether it's ok to only be supported on the purlins (depending on how far apart they are - usually around 800mm 32in or so). Thanks, Kurt.
Hi there, generally you don't need to cover the ends of the joiners. However if the top end is exposed (e.g. not under a flashing) then you could put some sealant in there. Or if you're in a very dusty environment you could put sealant or tape on both ends of the joiner. Thanks, Kurt.
I'm glad I found this! I purchased the fasteners without the expnsion hole cutter thinking it would seal my corrugated polycarb roof better given a bigger hole in hacked through it. I'm glad too I haven't started installing the roof and I kept the Bunnings receipt for the screws. Just need to figure the water proofing of the roof against a compressed fibro. Cheers.
@@people-of As it turns out I'm investigating flashing along with a rubber sealant. Unfortunately it'll rain tomorrow so will have to wait it out before continuing. Cheers.
Hi there, you can cut them individually with tin snips or shears, or 3-6 together with a sharp handsaw. We have another video on our channel on how to cut: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RamWhGuuv9E.htmlsi=rdhpsmhYwbuMH32h Thanks, Kurt.
Hi there, unfortunately there's no product that does that. With any sort of sunlight comes some sort of heat. The best option is opal which diffuses the light and cuts out some of the heat 🙂 Thanks, Kurt.
Hi - I noticed you were kneeling on the panels. I was not aware they were strong enough to support a man’s weight. It won’t crush the channels in the panels to kneel on them while using the rubber mallet?
Hi there, good spotting. Ideally you wouldn't kneel on it, but because I've used it for some time I know how much weight I can put on it. Too much weight, especially on the point of the knee, and you will crush the channels. Best practice would be to use a drop sheet and plank on top if you need to put weight on it :)
Thanks :) We actually supply the Twinwall, so if you're in New Zealand it can be purchased from sunnyside.co.nz. If you're not in New Zealand, if you search for Twinwall or Multiwall polycarbonate in your area you should find some suppliers. Thanks, Kurt.
Hi there, thanks for the vid, the spacings between the rafters you mention need to be 640mm, is this centre to centre, inside or outside dimension? Cheers
Hi there, no worries. It depends on the width of the sheet, and the inside width of the joiner. E.g. if your sheets are 610mm wide, and you allow a 30mm gap for the joiner, then you'd have 640mm spacings centre to centre. There's a diagram here that may help: sunnyside.co.nz/product/twinwall-polycarbonate-roofing/ Thanks, Kurt.
Hey mate good vid. I have another reason to add from experience 😅 I have come looking for answers. The wind comes directly into my installed sheets and, in the areas where one sheet overlaps with another sheet, causes them to clatter against each other. What do you recommend to stop this? My first thought was to put some silicone in the ends but am hopeful of a less permanent solution. Cheers.
Hi there, thanks for the additional cause! There can be a couple of reasons for this. Is that the direction the wind normally comes from? If so, you may need to overlap the sheets the other way (e.g. the sheet that's under, put that one over top), i.e. so the wind blows over top of the overlap (not under the overlap). It may also be that your purlins aren't close enough together (and therefore your screw lines), allowing the sheet to flex too much between screws. If that doesn't fix it, there was a product called lap tape that was sticky on both sides. And it would stick the overlaps of the sheets to each other. However this was more trouble than it's worth as eventually it would get sediment and dirt stuck to it as well. Some people have also put noise stop tape down the overlapping edge, to minimise the rattling. I hope that helps? Cheers, Kurt.
Very useful video! I also think wind is causing this at my place with recently installed PVC roof. Only happens when it is windy.... Sure wish I had seen this video before the roofing was installed. I don't want to redo it, but don't want to have to replace it if it starts cracking in the next few years.
We had an idiot install, and the first panel, he put the screws in the valley of the sheets instead of the peaks. He's obviously gone, and I need to finish it myself. How do I repair the holes in the valley, please
Ah that's a shame, there's no easy way to fix it. It would be good if you could flip the sheet over but most sheets only have UV protection on one side, so that would expose the unprotected side. You can't glue or silicone as it looks bad and will eventually work loose. Your best option is to put some screws in where he's drilled the holes and hopefully the washer is sealed enough that it doesn't leak. Make sure the hole is big enough to allow for expansion too. All the best with it!
Hi there, our H snap joiners are designed to be screwed through the bottom, into the rafter. Then you put the sheets on and then snap the top part of the H joiner on. If the sheets are 1200mm wide, they will also need to be screwed through the sheets into the rafter that goes under the middle of the sheet. More info here: twinwall.co.nz/ Thanks, Kurt.
Hi i got glazing bar screw to timber put 100mm polycarbonate sheet but when i wont put cap on its not cliping this screw on this way. If polycarbonate sheet was 160mm wilby fine. Any ideas? Thanks
Hi there, yes the sheets do let solar heat through but some block more than others. The clear lets 100% through, bronze 72%, grey 61% and opal (opaque) 41%. Thanks, Kurt.
@@mohammedseedat7795 That's correct, opal lets the least amount of heat through, there's nothing lower in the Suncover or Laserlite 1000. There is Laserlite 3000 platinum which lets 31% through, so slightly less again. sunnyside.co.nz/product/laserlite-2000-and-3000-polycarbonate/
A very useful video that will give me the confidence to replace my poly twinwall porch roof. The existing roof is 2m wide and 1m long with only outer supports. Do you think it would be better to add a middle support? Thanks again Colin
Glad it was helpful :) Yes you would need to add supports no further apart than 600mm (for 6mm Twinwall) or 800mm (for 8mm). Otherwise it will flex too much. Regards, Kurt.
Hi there, you can't walk directly on it, it's too flexible for that. But you can put walk boards down, e.g. a plank, or a thick sheet of plywood. I'd put a sheet/drop cloth down first so the timber doesn't scratch it. Hope that helps! Kurt.
@@sunnysidenz very helpful. That's what I was thinking. It's high - 14 feet. Too scary for me, but hopefully I can find a local roofer who will take on a smaller job.
Thanks for that, brilliant. I'm looking to roof a pergola and have taken some pointers from your video. Many thanks. Quick question though... could you have used wider sheets to cut down on the number of sheets such as the 1200mm (or even wider) you mention? 👍
Hi there, no worries :) Yes you can absolutely use wider sheets. I'd normally use 1220mm but I happened to have some 610mm that I needed to use. If you use 1220mm (or wider) you need rafters at around 600-650mm apart. So some of these will be in the middle of the sheet. In which case you use the Twinwall fasteners to fasten the sheet onto the rafter (drilling an expansion hole first). Hope that helps! Kurt.
Great video. I now know I can do my project. Love your patience with your children. Your son "sawing you" had me in stitches. Reminds me of my sons at that age. Well done.
Using the twin wall stuff for aquarium lids, thanks for the showing how to use the knife because I don't want those bits of plastic from getting into the tanks!
Hi there, we don't have a video for installation, but at the bottom of this page there is some instructions and notes on installation: sunnyside.co.nz/product/twinwall-polycarbonate-roofing/ Thanks, Kurt.
Hi Patrick, the dome washers won't leak as long as they're fastened down to squash over the corrugation. You shouldn't use any sealant as that will eventually work free of the sheet. Thanks, Kurt.
The profiled polycarbonate is 0.8mm thick (e.g. corrugated or Greca), the Twinwall is 6mm and the Custom Glaze is 2mm. All are ok for patio roofing. Thanks, Kurt.
