Have you had any issues with the pins that lock the attachments in place. one of mine only moves easily 80% of the way then i have to tap it in place with a hammer
I’d love to see a follow up video on how you like the machine so far after using it + direct comparison vs your old Kubota - did you trade it in or kept as a second machine?
thank you for sharing! I have a pretty similar 200 XP, trying to get the feed torque arm detached from the motor but stumped how to remove the cylindrical piece (coupler?) from it, I removed the bolt that, I think, is similar to the tapered pin that you removed. I call them shear bolts for the fact that it will shear instead of messing up the feed roller shaft.
Verses the scl1000, the 1050 has more HP, is more stable (side to side), has a metal hood, has less electronics, but it doesn't balance load as well (always on front few inches of track) it's aggressive factory tracks rip up lawns, it's controls are harder to master Probably the most telling is that the scl1000 is the employees' favorite, it goes out every day by choice. The 1050 only goes out when needed or grading jobs. I have a video coming with both lifting logs. Should be out soon Thanks for the comment. Tom
@JDT738126 It's impossible to say. I would be hesitant to buy any used equipment without seeing it unless it's such a great deal. We still have this one with over 4k hours, and it's still going strong. If you have any questions that you think I could help with, email me at tomhendricks316@gmail.com with your phone number and I'll call you
The people who design and make the final decision for production should spend some time on their machines in real situations to know 99% of owner/operator s would choose steel hoods over cheap plastic.
@christopherjake5610 I mean that's literally their whole selling point with the small tractors. Watch some dealer comparison videos. I was super surprised to find out these had plastic hoods
Glad you were able to find the date, I personally enjoy it when I'm able to find some definitive information, facts, or interesting details about a vintage or antique item that I own, regardless if it's in the form of a date stamp, manufacturers manual, a magazine ad or article from the same time period that the item was made. In my opinion I believe that knowing this kind of information let's a person have more appreciation for an item, value the great craftsmanship, and marvel at how well something was was made to be able to last this long but still work perfectly fine and continue working for year's/decades to come. I actually have the same exact kind, 1780 tradesman Wilton but it might have been a Snap-On, technically it's exactly the same vise, same manufacturer (Wilton) only thing different is the sticker nameplate and a change of color. Mine says made in USA, its unfortunate that they don't make the tradesman vise in USA anymore, only overseas now, probably Taiwan or China and that's a shame. Anyways cheers 🍻 enjoy the awesome 😂vise.
I totally agree. I have a southbend lathe that I think was made in the late 30s or early 40s. I also found what I think to be a date on the handle end of the leadscrew. Maybe you have one there to. Thanks for the info Tom
@@tomhendricks316 Yeah no problem, there's usually a date on the lead screw head part where the handle or tommy bar goes in. Not sure if all Wiltons have it but the 1780 tradesman and 745 mechanics vise i have both do. Just finished painting mine today, prep work took forever.
Pull the Wilton 1780 vise jaw all the way out and flip it over, there will be a date stamped on the key slide, its the thing that keeps the vise jaw from rotating.
I have an early model like you guys. I had several small issues that I resolved. Unfortunately now BOTH of the drive sprockets split in half literally. They cracked clean in half. Soon they will depart from the hydraulic drive units. A sad day. I absolutely love the machine when it works. Scared to buy another though with this major issue
Nice spool gun you got there. I've never used one, but I am looking forward to try. Since, I already have the welder (HOBART 210), I want to go for it. Thank you for sharing and take care my friend.👍👍
Hey looking into this machine!! Im mainly inside back yards and was wondering if you would feel comfortable going in and out of 42 inch gates with 7 or 800 pounds Appreciate any advice
Absolutely, as long as the ground was relatively level through the gate (side to side). I would even 1000 plus easily if the ground is right. Thanks for watching!
I had the timberwolf with 36" ram. I LOVED that table tube pan, but splits firewood would get wedged in there, and bent it. It was kinda floating pan, to some degree. I LOVE seeing how you welded it, so as it wouldn't float. I'd give anything to have that made for my new Eastonmade 22/28 splitter. It has a flat pan, and debris goes into my totes :( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aIYME276YlE.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Lbnu9_QVFFM.html
Jankiest controllers I’ve ever seen though. Kubota usually does a good job with their machines….but for $50,000 dollars (which is outrageous) I expect better quality on some of the parts on these things. Those controllers are like their #1 failure too. Most people end up doing their own wiring and modification on them or else it’s just a constant cycle of replacing those controllers.
Wish they put the number on the cly like JD does Easy to get correct kit every time 😊 I’m retired hyd mechanic and I like watching you’ll figure it out Good job 👏
I installed a heim joint on my F150 clutch push rod and I eventually took it out and went back to the original set-up. All heim joints squeak unless you lubricate them every 6 months. Also, before you convert to a heim joint you have to be sure you have an all metal pushrod as many of them are half plastic and will just snap off if you try to screw a heim joint on them. In addition, the set screw holding the joint on the pushrod worked loose and disappeared. I bought a new clutch lever and clutch master cylinder on Amazon for a total of about $50 and put it back to the factory setup with the plastic clip. I have 580,000 on my truck and I have only replaced the clip twice so far so I can live with that.
pretty brutal watching you operate that machine to be honest, jerking the losder, no control of the grapple, dragging tracks, knuckle loading the boom like that puts tremendous force on the loader, surprised it lasted 1000 hrs, typical tree guys
Mr. Hendricks, My 95 Ford f150 , 6 ILM, manual dropped her clutch to floor, a few days ago, I found the eyelet on push rod under dash had broke off, Well I found new push rod, But I don't have clue how to get old shaft out, & new one in, I'm coming up on 60, working on my vehicles out of necessity, can't pay garage,! Right Now, I feel like the little girl I was when Dad started teaching me of cars, How on earth could I drive manuals , Not knowing this, it's not happened to me, My knowledge base I had for back up, Dad, Brothers, my sisters Boyfriend-my bestfiend have gone, I'm little lost, any info you might have, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks StinknLilBrat 'Toni'
I demoed one today and noticed an extreme lack of power compared to my Vermeer. I also didn’t like how big the control arms are compared to the Vermeer. I guess the only thing I like over the Vermeer was the price.
