Scalar Performance is a Canadian based company specializing in the build and integration of modern high performance power trains in unique and interesting vehicles. Beginning with the SCR1, the first all-electric touring race car sanctioned for competition use against combustion, the Scalar team has taken the innovation and know-how from motorsport and applied the innovation in safety, durability and performance to a diversity of vehicles from race cars to heavy duty mining trucks.
Thing is, that high voltage battery has to charge the 12 volt battery, so they use a DC to DC buck converter to do that. If the 12 volt battery dies, there should be some way to engage the converter to supply current to the high voltage contactors etc.
Well most cars don't do that because for safety reasons when the high voltage battery is not powering the motors it is completely disconnected from the car, It would be a good idea to make it so that the car does have some sort of override but in most cases the car will just detect when the high voltage battery is low and connect the contractors, charge up the battery and be good like most cars there's always going to be some point up which are the 12 volt battery dies and like most cars there's ways around it
Twice the batteries to throw in the ocean Oh yeah , not to mention the main battery gives out after like 6-7 years so these “eco friendly” cars are basically disposable lmao
What electric ev components did you use? Parts list or kit to buy? I want one that is diesel and or both electric combined power output and torque. So you just flip switch from electric to diesel or run both at same time or have optional to do electric or diesel in front or rear and opposed axle the opposite without issues. It seems it could fairly easily be done with electric throttle control technology and traction control technology. Basically the electric motor would assist the diesel turbo motor. On take off and towing. That way if saying doing cannonball race you run both for as long as possible then switch to whichever is available till you stop to refuel diesel but also have electric hyper chargers at the pump so while refueling diesel you also hyper charge the batteries. Regeneration brakes would be good and Regeneration engine braking would be good. Like I think while running diesel you flip a switch cruising and generator switches gear in place or some sort of clutch kit because it won't decrease fuel economy much. You could run the generator all the time so that it recycles extra energy that's constantly wasted. You could have 2 or 4 generators creating energy. Plus increases up hill towing speeds and makes the load not seems as heavy going up the mountains. I'm debating building f350 crew cabs dually dual power flat bed tow trucks with the hook lift front tires system. That way when customer needs a tow if they need a ride or whole family needs a ride you can do it for them. One stop shop and truck fueled and charged can go for days running it in efficiency mode so uses electric most of the time but going over mountain pass towing say a medium rv it could do it. Plus I'd do dually quad or 6 airbags front and rear with hydraulic system like anylift does on super duties. Have digital levels on each fame end and it adjust as needed using the combination of hydraulic and air bags. I'd use air bags that are different heights. I think Firestone makes 14" tall air bags with 10" travel then do a bump stop smaller bag so bump stop built in the bag and uses a bottom air bag cup so if you lift the rear intentionally high for some reason the shorter air bag lifts out of air bag cup. Do 4 link probably in year with sliding hydraulic length adjustable track bar. So essentially you can put the truck frame on the ground or inner fenders on tires or hopefully find air bag with more travel than 10" of travel. I'd like to... well hydraulic system could possibly be 20" of lift with slip yokes adjustable drive shaft carrier bearing. And computer controlled dampening shocks. So they ride like Cadillac even with heavy loads or lifted or lowered. Complete ride height adjustmentwithout any sacrificeactuallywill ride better say with another f350 on back than it did from the factory. Do you think it's possible. So I bought 2003 f350 king ranch crew cab long bed. Insane amouts of upgrades. Im about to build 6th order bandpass center console box. That will go from firewall actually one air port will go there the width or the console. The console box will come up to where lowest arm rest positioned. Well itll end up taller as i plan to also retain 1/3 depth of center console from factory but be full width between arm rests. The lid will look factory. The whole console will appear like a hummers center drive shaft tunnel then the rear im deabating getting factory rear captains chairs but also debating getting front captains chairs and then having them electric adjustable with seat heaters. Id love to add seat ac units like lincoln did in ls years ago. That was nice when in Atlanta in August in rental car. Hmmm? I sold fords 2003 to 2005 and I'll be damned if I didn't forget the suspension changed in 2004 in front. I have bags in rear but bagging the front also. Just pitman and track bar adjustability is my main concern. I have adjustable trackbar but not on demand. I sort need hydraulic track bar as I'm doing 9" lift kit then from there 10" travel bags. So should be 19" of lift when wanted and the rear I'll do 14" bags and remove the 3.5" factory lift blocks. That way I can Carolina squat it driving or parked or I can do level cruising. Ad for drop pitman said for 9" lift. 9" is largest available. I have extended adjustable track bar I'll use hopefully. I think a simple electric rear axle motor to assist with take off and extra heavy loads
The dyno doesn't need to know anything about the power source. Of course you're not clamping a spark wire for RPM though. 😁. Dynapak and others do have EV upgrades but they aren't required.
@@oxidationdondetailing7621 Not at all. You give the dyno final drive ratio and it calculates motor RPM. Works the same for gas and electric. (With gas it would typically be a 4th gear pull, with electric is just single speed so its always correct)
Okay a 6.2 gas that was in it previously would have done that. Just crank the wheel al the way and put it to the floor. Which is exactly what you did….
@@scalarperformancewell that’s fucking stupid, it’s actually quite misleading to insinuate that an electric motor gives you better power-to-weight when to get any significant range out of an EV it is going to have worse Power-to-weight, that’s the trade-off of an electric engine, they’re really heavy, maybe play to it’s real strengths (instant torque, better traction control, mechanically simpler) instead of trying to use misinformation to try and make its biggest drawback seem like a positive.
@@Insertnamehere662a tesla model 3 perf awd with over 500hp weighs the exact same as a 2024 Ford mustang dark horse rwd does. But costs less and will whoop it's ass. plus given the stangs pathetic mpg it'll go farther on the hwy to. 😊 Just like an ice motor still needs Accessories, fluids, transmissions, drive shafts, axles, rear diffs, fuel pump/tank&lines, battery&electric motors to work. The main ev motor needs a pack&wiring etc in order to work.
Didn't hear any range info or i missed it. I'm guessing 400-450 Wh/mile at 55mph, is that about right? So if you could cram in those extra 150ah underneath you could get up to 300mi I have a 2005 excursion, that i love, with a 6.0. It would be such a great electric. Doesn't look like you have DC charging though, so road trips aren't an option
If you were able to do this project in under 2 weeks, that is amazing. Have you projected what the cost would be if you were to do this type of conversion on a greater scale? What is the range? Thanks for sharing.
If you get a steering column out of a 22+f150 that has a column shift, its all electric,I'm sure you could make it work for shifting some how with the controler
For sure, in fact, though we ended up choosing not to for a few reasons, we could also have done it via canbus message on this truck and left the old school shifter.
I'm about to do this to a RX8. Great chassis made better by being electric driven. I picked up a nice RX8 with engine issues for $1,500, Have made most of that back in parts sales. I also decided to mount the motor in the rear hopefully using a Tesla rear drive set-up. Any thoughts on that would be appreciated. Suscribed
here's a dumb question. would the battery last longer if you hooked the motor to the transmission of the truck to keep the rpms low. instead of being a direct drive system.
Usually you actually want to keep the RPMs high at the motor, because electrics "lug" and draw more amps when accelerating or when fighting wind resistance. But yeah, you get significant gains from putting the transmission in between. I wish they did that.
Automatic transmissions create a 15%-18% efficiency loss. Cascadia provides an efficiency map on their website and it varies based on SOC, load, rpm, etc but it's peak is 96% and iirc it's lowest is 86%. So basically there's no situation where the transmission would help improve anything but the top speed ability of the vehicle. Our choice limits us to 92mph, only 8 off the factory truck but we have torque at the wheels equal to the stock truck at peak power in first gear available thru the entire speed range.
Nice nail board setup, my only criticism is that you should be using twisted pair wire specifically made for CAN communications, otherwise you could end up with stretched wires and/or nonuniform twists when making them with a drill like that.
Data communication wires like CANbus and Ethernet are twisted to reduce electromagnetic interference and crosstalk, enhancing signal integrity. The spacing of the twists is important as Amanda mentions because it helps in minimizing crosstalk and electromagnetic interference. Different twist lengths can target different frequencies of interference, so consistent and precise spacing ensures a more uniform and effective reduction of unwanted signal noise and interference, improving overall data transmission quality. Achieving consistent spacing with a drill is just as good as any other manufacturing strategy.
Electrical engineer here with many years of experience, unless you are testing each cable for everything you mentioned, and other things like common mode rejection, reflection, capacitance, inductance...etc you cannot guaranty the performance. And no, using a drill to make twisted pair cables is not just as good.@@scalarperformance
It depends on a variety of things in not the least of which would be the range you expect but for an order of magnitude quote I'll say $100k +/- $20k. Don't need 500hp, less still.
@@scalarperformance thx I was talking about this particular build. I would like to know what you think of what Edison is doing with the diesel/ electric conversion
@@spinningedge8790 We haven't been following too closely but we did watch their announcement video. From what we understood they are doing an e-axle and foregoing any canbus integration work at this time. This approach means you get stuck with a solid axle, lose the factory 4x4 functionality and lose all body-control/cabin integration. The genset approach is great especially for eliminating range anxiety. IIRC correctly their e-axle is 180kw (240hp). So it is just a very different approach and we support all the innovation in this space these days!
