A lot of contractors offer landscape drainage as an additional service, but at Dallas Drainage Pros, drainage is all we do. Our specialization and experience guarantees a level of service that can give you peace of mind for something as important as proper drainage on your property. There is a lot of detail that goes into designing and building a system that works properly for years to come. If you want to design a better system yourself, we hope these videos help you do just that. Or, if you'd like to hire a local pro, give us a call and let us come up with the right solution to your situation.
After 20 plus years of coring this is the best I’ve seen on YT. Nice work. Btw, I assume the customer asked for a 3”hole for the 3” pipe coming through 😂
Can the channel drain be flat as long that the drain pipe slopes down? I have 30 ft of existing concrete that i need to cut into for my channel drain but slope not so great
Great info...really helps on a job that i just signed on for. Pretty close to you,I'm in Wichita Falls . Looking at other videoa for more insights. With drainage work its almost like every job is different ... This one i have has a negative slope so kind of challenging
One of the main things to consider is which direction the driveway flows - if you need the water to flow the opposite direction, you will need to do a custom channel drain to build your own slope, or look at a product like Duraslope which has a prefabbed slope built in
This is a filtered crushed concrete - approximately 1”. Either gravel or a crushed stone like this will work. The main thing is that is is clean and allows water to drain/filter through 👍
Hey John, I live in North Texas, not far from McKinney and I've been trying for months to find a reliable and trustworthy company in my area (which is proving to be quite difficult) to help with our drainage issue and prevent further damages to our home but I've received so many different answers from various professionals and don't know who to believe. I'm panicking as we head into rainy season and would really love to speak with you when you have a moment to see if you are able to assist in any way. Is there a way I can speak with you personally? I would love to hire you, or at least pay you for a consultation to make sure I get things done correctly if you don't work in my area. Thanks in advance!
Absolutely! Call the main office (972-269-5639) and ask to speak with me personally - our office manager will get your info and put us in touch. While you may be outside of our physical service, I’m happy to consult over the phone. Talk to you soon!
I’ve really been wanting to get into this trade and start my own business or work for someone to get some experience. I’ve done plumbing before so it definitely helps. I’m actually just right north of you in OKC and there’s hardly anyone that specializes in this trade around here so I think it’s a good time for me to start. I appreciate all these videos man because it’s really helping me and giving me confidence! How much does it take to get started typically and can I just get all my supplies at Home Depot or Lowe’s?
That’s great! Good for you - as long as you have a truck, your basic tools are shovels, a wheelbarrow, a level, and a saw for cutting the pipe. As you get into these jobs, you’ll find that you need things like a jackhammer (for when you come across rock) and other miscellaneous tools, but start simple and grow from there. I’d say for a couple grand you’ll be well on your way. As far as where to buy these things, most of it can come from Home Depot or Lowes, though you find better shovels from an irrigation supply store. Best of luck to you!
It is a specialized concrete core drilling machine with a diamond-tipped bit - we actually use a smaller handheld one these days. You can find them in any number of brands - ours is not a name brand and in fact has no markings. I just bought it from a local shop here in Dallas called NT Diamond Tools
I just got done squeegeeing the standing water off my carport for the hundredth time in the 5 years I've lived here. I'm tired of doing and finally looked into adding a grated trench drain. Reading about it is one thing, but seeing your video reassured me that it's a project that I can tackle myself. I'm definitely doing it this summer, so hopefully my days of pushing water around after every little rain are numbered. Thanks for sharing.
Hello from Hudson Valley NY Just subbed! Been tracking you on a couple of vids. Great stuff. Really you’re the only one that is using pipe with explanation that I’ve seen 2 questions Just to get scope of work First: How many workers would you put on this scope/ type of drain? (DIY workers Hahahahahaha) Probably be just me doing sections. 2nd: what type of gravel are you using? Can all purpose gravel for pavers ( looks like pea stone) be used? Keep up the vids very helpful in planning and situations. God bless
Thank you so much! This is at least a 2 person job, but the more the better I think. And really any kind of gravel will work - it needs to be roughly 1" to not slip into the holes on the pipe. And pea gravel is okay, just make sure it's large enough to not slip in the holes either. Oh, and one more thing, make sure the gravel is relatively clean - you don't want a bunch of sediment washing down and clogging your drain the first time it rains!
ID BE PIISED IF SOMEONE PILED THAT DIRT ON MY GRASS. ITS GOTTA BE HAULED OUT ANYWAYS SO THROW IT IN WHEELBARROWS AND GET IT OUT OF THERE. SECONDLY GO RENT THOSE MEXICANS A SOD CUTTER. ALL THAT BACK WORK WITH AN AX IS STUPID. AMATEUR HOUR AS FAR AS IM CONCERNED.
I'm debating whether to do a french drain down at the footer or just do a shallow french drain and regrade in front of my house. The footer is 6-7 feet down from where surface level is. Currently there's a window well with no cap, and the earth is not graded away from the home. On the inside basement wall, the water gets damp during heavy rains down near the footer. I guess I don't know when hydrostatic pressure is pushing up and into the home vs surface water being the issue. Would it be worth it to just regrade and add a shallow french drain, then see how it is?
Just doing the grading and adding a surface french drain will definitely help, and it's possible that it will resolve the issue entirely. Grading should be done either way, and having a surface drain first is always your best line of defense in addressing the majority of the water. If you do decide to go that route, my only thought would be to make sure to place the surface french drain far enough away from the house so that if you do end up having to go deeper, you don't have to tear into it. Best of luck!
At 0:25 you can a piece of plywood mounted to the bottom of the pump for shipping. If you look in the bottom of the well at 5:29 you can still see the plywood attached to the bottom of the pump legs. Shouldn’t this plywood be removed allowing the 3 legs of the pump to rest in the indentions in the bottom of the basin?
Thanks! You know, we actually install drainage without cement. With this Texas clay, the way it shifts, it actually helps the system to last by allowing it to expand and contract just a little bit!
I despise the stink in the debris that collects at the bottom of CBs so I have filled all of mine with concrete to eliminate all standing-water. If you have an opportunity to do a 6-inch setup then you could use small sections of the black-UV pipe that is sold for riser-pipe. My local HD has 2ft sch35 pieces of 6-inch UV pipe that I'll be using as discharges/outlets.
10/10 on the drainage setup. 0:34 That's not good to see bright green in the winter. They may have a sewer-pipe break or if those are 1/2 acre+ properties with OSSFs then that might be improperly-treated effluent that is in violation of our Tx Health codes, you can FOIA everyones OSSF plan from your health department. As a business owner with employees you need to obtain access to the online-maps that show who-does & who-does-not have a permitted OSSF on record. Those pathogens can spread a 48 hour fever from that green-slime if it is a failed-septic-system, or the neighbor has huge dogs that produce lots of organic-waste. My local map access is called 'h-gac', it is a few years out-of-date but it is still new enough to see the properties with pre-2005 OSSFs that can get you & your family sick.
Raising those irrigation pipes like that may put them too high. They need to be deep enough (4") that an aerator won't hit them. You don't really need that clean-out, you're right by the downspout and you can just remove it and run your snake down there.
Good video, thanks. It would be interesting to see a more step by step process, when you encounter issues and how you work through them. Design, even before you pick up a tool. Adjustments to process in the field. Permits needed. I have been watching your channel for a while now, I wish success for you! -Jim (Austin)
Hey mate Awesome video Can you please go back to the job during a flood or you request the owner to take the rain footage? This will be awesome to see + blow your channel up!
Great video. Thanks. I didn’t realize that. I was going to do that. So it’s ok for them to be connected on the same main line as long as they join the main line with a Y? Can I have downspouts go straight down into a catch basin at a 90° angle, and cut a hole in the grate so it literally goes into it and the surrounding grate then helps prevent it from splashing out of the catch basin. The catch basin would also then be able to catch any standing water from really hard rains too. What do you think?
Thank you! To answer your question, that could work! You wouldn't necessarily need to cut a hole in the grate - that grate really just acts as a filter for leaves falling from the gutter. NDS actually makes a special grate just for such purpose: www.ndspro.com/12-inch-downspout-defender.html Hope that helps!
