I bought the Elite 1-4 X 24 just a few weeks ago, to mount on a semi-auto classic hunting rifle. So far so good. Very steady, does the MOA adjustments very precisely, good light, and very wide field of fire to find and follow running animals. I am just hoping that things stay as they are for a long time.
Pro tip! Instead of leaving it in stripper clips fill mags and stack magazines as high as you can when they all full and you have more ammo buy more magazines lmao
Make yourself a friend with a good vacuum sealer, and vacuum seal the ammo either still in the box, or on strippers to fill the magazine before vacuum sealing your bag. (Noting 3 strippers per standard magazine) or 3 strippers clips per vacuum sealed bag before pocketing into a bandolier.
So keeping ammo in the cardboard from the factory is bad but the cardboard from the military is good !!!!!!! Says the guys trying to sell the stripper clips and bandoliers
There are different types of cardboard. I have a couple of .223 cases I polished and put in an ammo can simply sitting in a USGI cardboard insert and some others in an American Eagle black 20 round box. The ammo in the AE has some very light corrosion (rust *colored* staining on the brass) where it was in contact with the box. The USGI cardboards don’t mark the brass in this way. Unsure exactly how cardboard is “graded” but there is a difference. I do prefer 50 round plastic flip boxes though.
Wish i just had a sight that could be adjusted with a flathead like my wifes walther ppq m2 q4 tac, but she is a gunsmith and has a sight pusher, the problem is that its not compatible with my beretta 92x or my hk vp9 which are my main carries
Two things to mention; (1) Bandolier v Bandoleer: A bandolier refers to a linked belt of ammunition that can be slung and carried as is. A bandoleer is a strip of cloth that is capable of holding ammo or magazines that can be slung for carry. I've got ammo cans with the description written both ways. Over the years, I've seen bandoleers stamped with the nomenclature varied both ways. (2) Critical; handling ammo with your bare hands (for long term storage) is a definite no-no. The moisture, acid and other contaminants on your fingers will eventually do more damage to the rounds than the moisture attracted by the cardboard strips used to silence the ammo for carry. Always wear a clean pair of white cotton gloves when handling ammo for storage to keep it looking factory fresh and corrosion free. When you get old a .30 Caliber Can (loaded with 420 rds) weighs half as much as a .50 Caliber Can with 840 rds. I put 12, 30-rd cardboard holders upright in the bottom of the can, add 3 folded, empty bandoleers w/3 spoons, put two more 30 rd cardboard carriers on top, and call it my "Load Out" cans. The best place to get great ammo cans is "CleanAmmoCans.com". PEN/SWORD USMC '67-'69 Semper Fi
I expected a whole lot more for the money like an indicator dial or digital would be nice something so you can figure out how far you're moving the site so you could center it correctly I'm not saying it's junk I'm just saying it's worthless I mean who wants to keep testing and checking and on the same slide I'm gonna do it one time and be done with it and eyeballing it that's not centered it's just work and your idea of centered might not be another person's idea of centered there's too much guesswork way too much money I have that cheap one brevex and at least it has hash marks on it for measurement they're worthless but at least they may be attacked I'm just gonna grab a dial indicator set it up on one side that way I can see how much I pushed it to center it off
Otherwise known as how to shorten the life of your barrel by x%. Not for me. Kroil oil soaking metal will not absorb it period. Metallurgy 101. Oil does not “penetrate” steel. Period.
I'm a Glock fan boy but have been impressed with the G3 and G3c. I now have three and trust them all, they are a lot of gun for the money and it's the handgun I recommend to new shooters. I tell people to think of it as a Glock with a thumb safety.
If you need to be told to unload your gun before working on it. You absolutely should not own a firearm, nor should you even have one in your hands. In fact you have no need to be watching this video
howard KAHN you are in the business so you know what you talk about........giving that over lube is better than moderate oiling what about using WD40 for a solvent and oil job? duel purpose fluid.....,second question.....will over lube hurt the function of the weapon in a dry environment??????
If you do not have this setup you can use a spent casing to get the assist out. Put the casing in with the extractor and push over. If doing this two people work best. My pin still needs to go in one more mm. But it is flush and works as i did not have help to put mine in fully. I need this tool, what is this called?
Do not put the lower end 4500 elite on your 450 Bushmaster! The scope lasted 6 shots. I thought that I researched the scope enough to be able to use it. Wrong!
Very good cleaning video. Like your work bench desk. Well organized. My cleaning procedures with my 1911s is similar to yours. The only difference is I use Break free CLP instead of Hoppes #9, for cleaning. I like a thinly applied light grease, (Enos Slide Glide) on the frame and slide rails, which helps prevent wear and galling. Oil on the rails work fine, but dries quickly. The grease lasts a long time and stays there. Works well on my Sig Sauer P229 rails, too.
After reading about the wondrous properties of Kroil, I sent away for a large can, as nobody sells it where I live (southern Calif). Been using it on guns particularly prone to leading, revolvers and .22's. Didn't know about the kroil soak + JB paste method until this video, I have been using Tornado brushes and good old Chore boys on my Stag M4 with the CMMG .22 LR conversion and brightens up the bore to prevent lead build up, my main concern (some say to fire one or two rounds of 5.56 through the bore at the end of the shooting session with the CMMG kit but I always forget to do this!)
