This helped me to understand the pattern that incorporates sleeves in the chart and a repeating pattern in the middle of the chart so thank you so much
@natalieholm7055 When I made this scarf, I was using graph paper for each of the patterns. Unfortunately, I did not save or document them electronically. I kind of created as I knit this scarf.
@keith.paulahyde5537 I would twist the yarn of the long float around the yarn of one of the other two you are going to make a stitch with. That's probably the easiest way I've used in that very situation.
@heidigunter2257 I actually do not cast-off, but keep the live stitches on threads. I join the hexagons to one another using the Kitchener stitch. Now, the outermost hexagons do have borders knitted on the outermost edges. I pick up those stitches from their threads and knit-up a twenty row border (with increases matching that of the hexagons). I knit the border in the "Moss Stitch" which is a nice contrast to the colorwork as it provides a visually appealing texture. After twenty rows, I cast-off knitwise. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching and for your question! Happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl
Hi Earl, Just wondering if the distance between my left finger and right finger holding the yarn and the needles it matters or not when you catch the floats and stranded knitting?
I have found that with regard to tensioning distances I think it's best to use whatever is more comfortable and efficient. I will say that sometimes, the longer the distance is between your work and tensioning finger (pointer or index finger, specifically), the easier it is to catch them when swinging around and swooping, such as when trapping floats. I hope that all makes sense and helps. Thank you for watching and for your inquiry! Happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl
Thanks so much for this. I’ve seen so many projects on ravelry using this technique, but couldn’t find anything free that would help me to copy it. I absolutely love hexagons and I am so grateful someone has this for free
Thank you so much! Coincidentally, I'm making one, now and it's truly invisible and it does not require you to lift any bottom stitches from the round below when beginning a round. It's amazing and I love the technique! Stay tuned and until then, happy knitting! -Clubkidknitter/Earl
Absolutely brilliant. I have tried Patty Lyons’ way but always want to learn more. Ty for all the tutorials. And your work that u have on the video are breathtaking 😊
wonderful video and very informative series! i was reading some of the comments to see if there was something i was getting wrong since the last two attempts i had with hexagons they keep ending up like a cone; never laying flat even with intense blocking. i see that i should be using m1b as well as m1t, but i cannot tell where the m1b is placed. is it a stitch pattern like (knit 2, m1t, knit 2, m1b) or (knit 2, m1t, m1b and repeat) ? thank you for these videos!
Thank you so much! With regard to the cone issue: I wrote my patterns to have increases every other round. This should make them lie flat. I know in the Persian Dreams pattern (I believe the very first one), the increases were less frequent and if your tension was too tight on top of that, your hexagons would be cone-like. I know that the author of that pattern subsequently created a newer addition, including expansion packs, to do the increases every other round to address the non-flatness issue. I hope this helps. Check the increase frequencies. I did M1Bs toward the end of each section to create a better "mirrored" effect. The M1B is the opposite of an M1T. It's just a "symmetry" thing and should not affect the flatness of the hexagon. Also, I had to practice a few hexagons years ago in order to adjust tension and create "muscle memory." I tried to convey some of that through the series. Let me know if I can be of any other help. 😀 -Clubkidknitter/Earl
When you finish row 2, which has all three colors, then work the next two rows without the lemon color, do you float the lemon color horizontally along row 3 and 4? Or do you drop it, and pick it back up when you get to row 5, like a vertical float? (Assuming youre working in the round)
Excellent question! I float it vertically and pick up with it in the next round it's called-for. If I don't need it for another, say 10 or 15 rounds, I detach it and then reattach it. Either method works. Thanks for watching, and happy knitting!
Hi. I have been a fan of your videos for a long time. I am knitting an in the round fair isle cardigan that calls for purl stitches every now and then. Can u do a short tutorial to show how to knit this please, thank you👏
Thank you so much! With regard to the purl stitches, how are they used? Is it for trim or do they actually incorporate changing colors? Let me know or if there's a pattern or where to obtain the pattern if from a specific website. Thanks again for watching and commenting! Happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl
@@Clubkidknitter life saver! I wouldn't have been able to continue on without your video! My first 20 rounds were 2 colors and then they sneakily threw in 3 colors on just 2 rounds at the end of my sweater yoke! 😊.Grateful for your help. Have a great day!
@irishflutegirl9022 My absolute pleasure. I'm always glad to hear that my videos are useful. It's exactly why I make them. You are inspiring in what I do with videos. Thank you for taking time to share your feedback and thank you for watching! Happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl
Thanks for this Video to Show a realy simple Methode of knitting with 3 colors, that can somtimes realy frustable. Thats realy clear Show. 👍 Greetings from Germany LG lally 😊
Thank you!!! You have saved my hat!!! I'll be posting pics of my fix on my Instagram soon, it's voiceshands if you want to go see... give it a day or two though :)
Thanks for the very helpful video. Does the catch every other stitch method work when fair isle knitting something that needs a lot of stretch like a sock? Are there different methods to use for fair isle sock knitting? Thanks again!
Hi there! It absolutely does work, and for the very reason you mention, regarding ease for socks. True story: the VERY first thing I knitted Fair Isle six years ago was a hat, and I used that technique. Also, you can achieve nice ease for socks by knitting them inside-out. This technique results in slightly longer floats as they occur on the outer circumference of the sock. You can apply the tips in this video to that method and have great stretch to your socks. The only downside to the every other stitch method is that every other stitch may appear slightly larger. Some of this can even out a bit through wet-blocking (for wool). I hope all of this helps. Thank you so much for watching and taking time to comment! Happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl
This is actually the best method I tried yet, especially with catching the floats. As I am knitting a sweater in stocking stitch, I wonder how to keep the colors of yarn correctly aligned keeping in mind the dominance when turning my piece around for the purl stitches?
Thank you so much for your comment! 😊 To answer your question, when you turn your work, just make sure those three working yarns remain in their respective positions (top, middle, bottom) and the same yarn-dominance will be maintained on the purl side as in the knit side! Thanks for watching and again taking the time for your comment and question! Happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl
When you say lasting line, do you mean fibers or bits of color? If so, I always recommend using acrylic yarn for the lifeline. Never wool because wool on wool will cross-contaminate and even partially "felt" to/with your actual knitting. Acrylic will always slide free from itself as well as natural fiber.
@@Clubkidknitter actually I meant that my lifeline, be it dental floss or sewing thread, leaves a discernible “dent” in the fabric that doesn’t release readily. I’m knitting brioche (Agnete sweater) using a fingering wool with a mohair strand. Sticky yarns, both of them. The lifeline marks were so pronounced, I stopped using lifelines and took my chances. I did my lifelines exactly as you have; wondering if you can think of a remedy
@harrietyarmill2873 I've not encountered that issue. Are you sewing them through the right leg of the stitches after knitting the round or are you introducing the lifeline as you knit? If the latter, I would recommend manually sewing it through after the round and maybe one or two additional rounds are finished. Also, wet-blocking may make any dent not noticeable. If you are knitting the lifeline in during the round, the additional yarn/floss, etc. may actually be slightly enlarging the gauge of the knitted stitches and is why a dent may be occurring. When sewing in the lifeline, make sure to keep it loose - try not to "strangle" that round - is another recommendation. I hope this all helps. Let me know, I'm interested. 😀
@@Clubkidknitter thanks for responding. I’ve been putting in my lifeline after knitting the row ( ie: not in the round), through the first leg of the stitches with a tapestry’s needle. However, these lifeline marks are now pretty well all disappeared. Since completing my Agnete sweater Monday, I’ve worn it steadily, and I believe my issue is resolved. The marks are all but gone! I’ll bear in mind to be loose with my lifelines in the future, though this is the first time I’ve had lifeline marks. Maybe its the 2 strands ( fingering and mohair). Than you again.
I don't think i would have ever started this if i didn't find your video's. I have one questions as a very new knitter. I have this blue gizmo I've worn on my left index finger to pick the color i needed rather than weaving as you've shown, why haven't you used that? Again, thank you for the video's, they are brilliantly done. Knit picks still sales this pattern, i hope more knitters find your site and hope you respond.
Thank you so much for your comment! I have heard of the "ring" you wear that separates the two colors on your left tensioning finger. I never gravitated toward getting one because I'm a two-handed knitter when it comes to "parallel" float colorwork (as opposed to a Continental knitter). I'm most comfortable and efficient as a two-handed knitter. When I knit "rotating" floats for stranded colorwork, I'm an "English" knitter. I'm getting ready to upload some videos for that style of stranded knitting to include managing three colors with that technique (it's sometimes referred to as "Norwegian" stranded knitting). The ring you speak of is wonderful and highly recommended if you are a Continental knitter. I actually recently uploaded a video on Continental Fair Isle knitting because a few subscribers requested it. I don't own one of those rings, so I demonstrated it just using my left index finger forming a "V" with the two working yarns - one above and below the second joint. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment! Happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl 😊
Ok, that explains why i was taught using the ring as i am a Continental knitter. Now i'll look for your video to remind me how to lock the yarn with the ring. However the thumb twist technique you showed is brilliant. Thanks again, i look forward to your future videos. Cheers@@Clubkidknitter
I have only just found your videos - so helpful and informative!!! I have been looking at this pattern for quite a while but never really liked the colours used (a little too 'bright' for my room). But I really love your interpretation of the colours (makes the motifs look almost like stained glass). You've definitely reignited my interest in this pattern.
Thank you so much for such kind words and sentiments! I completely convede that color is a very subjective thing. I will say that in all of the various color interpretations by those who have knitted this, I've loved them all. ❤️ Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment! As always, happy knitting! - Earl/Clubkidknitter
Thanks so much for your great stranded knitting videos. I'm learning so much. Could you tell me what software you use to create your paper patterns? Thanks again!
Hi, thanks for your video and clear instructions. I thought I noticed when you were knitting the liner and the patterned portion together that the stitches on the liner portion were backwards when you knit the two together, so you were going through the front leg on the patterned side and the back leg on the liner side. Is that correct?
Thank you for watching and for your kind words. With regard to your question, you are correct in your observation. The stitches on the WS would be twisted. You may place the stitches from the provisional cast on facing in the opposite direction (left leg on front of that circular/right leg behind). It's not stressed due to the fact that side is on the WS. Either way is fine and at your discretion. When working with a provisional cast on for an infinity scarf, I would absolutely make sure that the stitches on the provisional caston are picked up from their left leg so that they are not twisted as they would be visible from the RS of the scarf. Thanks again for watching and providing feedback! Happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl
Thanks for replying so quickly! @@Clubkidknitter Good to know that it doesn't make a difference. I was wondering if it was important to have them placed that way. I'm going to give this a try for my next hat to make it warmer around the ears. I had been thinking about adding a polar fleece liner, but I like this idea better :)
If I am doing stripe work, I use the technique: when beginning the round of the new stripe, I lift the stitch directly underneath the first stitch of the new round and place it on my left needle. I then knit through it AND the first stitch of the new round. This technique relaxes the jog making it less apparent. I believe there are two other methods for addressing jogs, one of which is "helical" or knitting your colors of each stripe in a helix fashion. Hope this helps! Thank you for watching and for your comment! Happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl
Hello, thanks for making these videos I’ve been subscribed to your channel for years, I wanted to know if whey you had the time if you can make a video about knitting repeats in color work,thanks so much!
Hi, Dorothy! Thank you for your message and for being a subscriber. I believe I might have one on my channel called, "Fair Isle Knitting in the Round." It's for a gray and hot pink hat with a repeating argyle design. Take a look at that, if you haven't already, and let me know if that's what you meant by "repeating pattern." If it's not, I'm absolutely delighted to make something. I'm presently working on a mini series for Latvian mittens where I discuss and demonstrate a different knitting technique I discovered this summer about "rotating floats." I'd be happy to make a video on your topic if it's not addressed in that video I mentioned. Also, you may email me with any additional details about the video you'd like me to create at Clubkidknitter@gmail.com. Thank you for watching, and thank you for your comment! Happy knitting! 😊 - Clubkidknitter / Earl
I’ve got the kit from knit picks. I’m hoping your tutorial will spare me the steep learning curve. I’m excited to get started and thrilled your videos exist!
don't know if you are still active on youtube but just wanted to say you have a great eye for color, i love how bright and vibrant your work is!!! so gorgeous!!
Thank you for teaching me how to knit fair isle and capturing the floats so neatly! I would like to know if you also knit fair isle straight? If so, how do I purl the strands? And do I read the charts right to left for knitting and left to right for pulling?
Thank you so much, Maureen! Yes, it is possible to knit Fair Isle flat. It does require that you read the pattern opposite when doing the even rows (the purled ones). It's what's done when double-knitting, also. You trap the floats in front when purling Fair Isle. Another option is knitting in the round in a tube, basically adding steek columns. Then, when finished and after reinforcing the columns on either side of the center, steek, you cut down the center steek. It's similar to hand blown glass pane windows. They blow glass into a large tube, score it, put it into an oven, and it opens up and lies flat. The reasoning behind the steek route? Because many knitters, myself included, have differences in tension when purling and knitting. This is also why you knit a flat Fair Isle swatch by always bringing the working yarn all the way back to the beginning when doing so. It creates really long floats behind your swatch work, but you cut those "floats," allowing the swatch to lie flat. You have a more accurate gauge in doing this method because each and every row is knitted, but for the fact you are always sliding your completed stitches to the opposite end while bringing the working yarn across the back and to the new beginning (next row/round). I know this is a lot, and I've not yet made videos on many of the topics. Here are the keywords to search in RU-vid for examples: Fair Isle flat; double-knitting; steeking; knitting flat swatch. Hope all of this helps! 😀 Thanks again for watching and commenting! Happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl
@@Clubkidknitter Wow! You're right, that is a lot to learn. I love the correlation to stained glass window blowing. Did not know that...very interesting! Thank you so much! Maureen
Thank you for this tutorial. What makes the yarn in the left hand dominant rather than the right hand? And, when u are knitting a round with only one strand after that colour being dominant, how do you make that one row dominant with the rest of that colour being in the left hand? I thrownwith my righthand usually.
I actually just uploaded a brand new video that answers your questions. It's called, "Continental Fair Isle Knitting." I go more in depth about yarn dominance and how and why it occurs. Thanks for watching and for commenting! Happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl
I am doing a colorwork hat with a design repeating it 4 times. There is an area of about 20 stitches that is a back ground color so would i do floats there or what method of yours should i so ? also the hat is very tight fitting when i tried the first hat on that i made, in the colorwork area, but not where i just used one yarn where there were no colorwork changes.. Any suggestions? Its just made in 2 colors. I'm just trying colorwork for the first time.
Hi, Linda! Thank you for your questions! First, I tend to trap floats on the fourth stitch. Put another way, I usually don't have floats longer than four consecutive stitches. Also, I stagger my floats from round-to-round so as to avoid noticeable "ruts" running the length of the knitting. Second, to make your hat or socks, etc. have more "give," try knitting them inside-out. In doing so, you will create slightly longer floats in an organic fashion. When your hat is returned back to outside-in, you'll notice more give or that it is more stretchy. I hope this helps! Thanks again for watching and commenting and happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl
@@Clubkidknitter Thank you! I’m a pretty new knitter It took me forever to knit my hat with the color work I usually crochet but knitting is nicer, I think ! Until I make a mistake or drop some stitches and end up ripping 3 or more rows out and try to put them back on the needle!!! Lol
Hello, I am going through your videos and there is so much excellent content on so many varied topics. Thank you for this. I am having a problem with a project that I can trying to do. Doing fair isle with a small circumference. How would you suggest that I tackle this (I am casting on 58 stitches)? I tried magic loop but I don’t think my brain is wired for this type of knitting gymnastics. Also am trying it with 2-24” circular needles. This is better than the magic loop but my tension is sky high (if it were blood pressure, I think I would be in the ER). I just ordered the Chiagoo Shorties to see if this will work. Anyway, I thought if anyone would have a good solution, you would. Thank you again. Your work is truly remarkable and appears to be heirloom quality.
Thank you so much for watching and for the kind words. Multiple Magic loop can be fiddly, especially in the beginning. It comes down to practice. I had always been a magic loop kind of guy and dreaded double-point needles because the very first time I tried using them, my stitches fell off. Well, guess what? I have been using them non-stop on my socks and mittens and actually love them, now. The reason I say this is because, feasibly, this project could be done using seven dpns. You'd obviously need to purchase two sets of five. I just purchased 2 pairs of US2 Knitter's Pride Karbonz (8-inch) and love them. The nice thing about dpns, is they result in better tension in each of the four transition areas (or six, with this project). This is because the tension is maintained on the last few stitches of the prior needle. Always trap the float of the color opposite of that of the last stitch. Always make sure both yarns are at the end of a needle prior to going on to the next needle. As mentioned, this will do wonders for tension in those corners. With regard to the Multiple Magic Loops, practice makes perfect. You can end up doing it in your sleep the more you do it. 😉 Thanks again for watching and your kind words. Happy knitting! - Clubkidknitter/Earl
@@Clubkidknitter Earl. Your mentioning adding MORE DPNs broke open the floodgates for me. Of course! Use whatever makes it right. Why am I so stuck in knitting cement? Of course, I would need to make sure that my working needle is the correct size for my gauge…but the others…ah…they can be whomever they want to be…like, let’s be welcoming and inclusive. :) Perhaps you could do a video just talking about this subject…using what you need to make it work. Thinking outside the DPN wrapper. Life seems to be too short to be restricted to a package that a company has deemed to be the correct number of needles. You have set me free, young Earl. Thank you so much.
Hi, the algorithm sent me here! Sorry to hear about your mom…I love house music too as I was a former club kid and knit faster when I’m listening to house
