Hello World My Name is Alfred, I've Been working on cars nearly all of my life. I love automobiles, technology and just repairing things in General. I'm a do it yourself if I can type of guy! I have over 17 year's of experience working on high end BMW vehicles. I’m Master certified in my field and A ASE Master certified Technician. I decided to try something a bit different and create some content about something I enjoy doing. As I have projects throughout the year ill be creating some content. I’ll be Showing some of the repairs I’m working on and giving some tips on maintaining your BMW and Keeping it on the road. Welcome to My Chanel "Kool Fred's Bimmer Tech" Hope you guys enjoy. If You Like the content “Please like and subscribe”
Honestly man I was looking for one thing but you rambled more about the car than the repair you are a good mechanic but when making content stay on topic brother you bounce around a lot
Hey bro, really helpful video. Planning on doing this on my F22 235i. One problem is I don’t have a plug in reader. would I be able to do the oil change then reset the values at a later date? I hope this makes sense. Again, great video. Cheers bro
replaced the tank because the float in the tank was bad but when i put coolant the engine light came on now it’s saying the coolant temperature sensor is reading invalid data
Do you think cleaning the dried up coolent on the tank and the sensor would fix the coolent and replacing the radiator cap would do the trick on this repair versus replacing the entire tank?
I don’t have any sponsorships or anything and in some cases it’s a lil bit of red tape posting a link on YT. Because u have to verify some things before it accept it.
I did however put the part# in the description. For the kit. It’s from FCP euro. U can put in your year and model on there site and they may have a service kit for your vehicle.
I found my front PDC sensors harness disconnected , does it takes time to get sync !? or should I clean it first !? yeah I had a front left sensor damage BUT suddenly all stop working !!
In the middle of this job now and the bottom left bolt is offset right behind the crank pulley and can’t get my T30 bit in it due to space. Any suggestions?🙏🏼
Update* Took a long T30 bit, took my grinder and narrowed down the shaft thin enough to give me the clearance between the water pump pulley & Crank pulley to get the bottom left bolt out.
That’s the one on the bottom, u just rotate it from side to side. It has a poring that seals it. That’s the turbo oil drain hose back to the engine block.
Thanks for making this video. You did a good job explaining things. I also like that you talked about some of the other problem areas that you and your coworkers have seen with coolant leaks on this model. I have seen all those areas that you pointed out, leaking coolant at different times. Each was an expensive repair. This was a very helpful video.
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It’s a vacuum coolant filler. It uses compressed air to pull a vacuum then it sucks in the coolant. If u use one of those systems you don’t have to bleed the cooling system.
Thanks for the video!!! I took my friend's X5 today for aligment and the shop couldn't do it becuase couldn't adjust any od the adjusters. I took a look when I got home and it seem the front only the toe is adjustable. Looks like the rear has more adjustment, as it seems the rear bolt of the control arm adjust the toe and the upper rear link adjusts the rear camber. Are my observations right? No I will need to start sprayin stuff with PB blaster and heat to see if they budge
@@koolfredsbimmertech5617 I’m on the same boat. Mechanic charge me 6.5 hours for one of thermostat(it got 2). While he doing the work. He found water pump is leaking. Better change it. I goes “alright do what ever you need to do.”he charged me 3.5hours extra labor for water pump. So all up is 10 hours labor. Feel a little got ripped off.
@@XX-ud7hj on the G05 X5, I believe the thermostat aka the heat management module is under the intake manifold. So that’s why that repair was 6.5 hours. Good Luck!
Hi, I bought an expansion tank to replace but the new one has plastic connectors on the bottom of the new float connection. Is this normal or should they be metal?
@@koolfredsbimmertech5617 Thanks for the reply & I verified its plastic prongs on bottom of float. Weird but didnt give me any light on the dash. Thanks again 👍
Hey I have the 428i 2014. I changed the cam shaft sensor harness. The first harness on the on the ecu and all my these code are on now that was not before I changed is and it will not start now. Do u have some advice.
I was also just careful and jacked it up in the center of the rear diff. Sometime it’s tricky jacking them up with a floor jack if u plan on using a jack stand.
Which radiator pressure tester you using? Also, had the same issue with mine. Fixed it. Now my A/C compressor keeps short cycling off and on. Getting BMW HVAC code: 801224 "Air conditioning compressor: Shut-down due to excess pressure in refrigerant circuit." Pulling my hair out. I changed both radiators (leaking) in the front along with the whole water pump assembly (leaking too) and did a hi & low coolant bleed. I have the same engine B46 430ix (2017) Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
It’s a snap on brand called blue point. U possibly just have a leak in the a/c system. The system needs to be evaded and recharged and leak tested to find the leak. That fault usually sets when low refrigerant is detected by the pressure sensor.
@@koolfredsbimmertech5617 one more thing this morning i found another fault code: 20A201 Charge Air Cooling system dry running detected. Points to maybe i did something wrong with low temp system. need to bleed again. Trial and error i suppose. Thanks for the info my man.
@@tdawg1283Sounds like the low temp coolant pump is bad. If the coolant isn't low and is ok, it's not circulating the coolant through the system. maybe when u had that leak it ran dry and damaged the pump.
Thabks mate for the info 2014 bmw x3 getting a clunk going over small speed bumps now.. anti sway pins/connectors are fine so i am betting its rhe control arms and makes sense to change both of them out..
I went to do the bleeding procedure on bmw n20 motor with the coolant expansion tank top off like you did and the coolant started rapidly spraying out from the little hose, can you help me out with any ideas why this is happening thanks
That's normal operation of the electric water pump. when the heat is on or if u perform the coolant bleed procedure. the pump circulates coolant through the cooling system and it returns back to the expansion tank via the small coolant vent hose.
It’s was leaking in several areas. Once I got the intake off found that plastic water outlet pipe warped and just barely moving the wire harness the coolant vent pipe brake at the cly head connection. So there several things that can leak. It’s a domino effect.
Great content my guy..quick question, i know oem is always best. But im looking to get the aluminum oil filter housing (Chinese aftermarket) you have any experience with the aluminum housing? Would you recommend I stay away? Thanks in advance
@@user-po8ig2rg8y I have not used the aluminum ones. I have seen them online. Metal is stronger than plastic it’s probly worth a shoot. Let me know how it works out.
