Do you know what size that attachment was to pull the chain tensioner guide rail? The tool I bought from Amazon doesn’t seem to have a big enough attachment.
For anyone reading this, the chain tensioner guide rail pin on my 1982 380sl was NOT threaded. Bought a 5/16" x 2.5" expanding concrete anchor bolt from the hardware store and used this to pull the pin. Once you expand it in the pin, it should slide out pretty easily.
Many thanks Ken for all your videos. I just acquired a 1980 SLC and most bits need changing so your videos have been a goldmine, much clearer than the old Mec manuals. I changed the front bearings , one was still an original SKF, made in W Germany, the right side was probably changed at some point, TIM KIN bearings but surprisingly made in France. Also used your video for the subframe mounts, will use it for the cuppler and rear brakes. At only 80 k miles not sure I will need to do the timing chain but we’ll see. Any thanks a lot for all your most useful videos and tips. Be well and keep wrenching.
just done 350sl m116 engine , eBay tool broke , so used a slide hammer , we had everything forward of the engine out , for space . mark everything , photograph , and notes . take your time , don't rush . be aware of "whip" with the camshafts . check your timing marks when done , they will never be perfect ( they can't be) it isn't hard to do this job. holding pins have internal 6mm thread , to attach to slide hammer . AND Thank You autosick for the video .
Can’t understand why a brand like Mercedes would use the cheapest materials for interior trim . I had a 107 and most of the trim pieces were broke. I now have an R129 and it has the same problems with broken trim.Instead of spending a small fortune , I repaired them myself.
I am getting ready to order new front rear seats head rests and armrests for my 1987 300d w124. My seats are in good condition but its the palomino color that turns pinkish. So going to replace the upholstery. Have you ever done w124 seats.
One question: I noticed that the old chain, as it's being pulled out is slack, is there any risk that it get disengaged at the crankshaft sprocket and jumps a tooth there?
The procedure in the Mercedes Service Manual uses a small slide hammer to remove the guide rail pins from the cylinder heads but I like the removal tool you got off eBay better.
Hi, thanks for the video. I have a 1984 SL380 may i know what Bilstein part number suits the Front and Rear as i guess the Front is different that the SL560? appreciate your feedback.
Pretty good video three ERRORS that because they affect how brakes work are consequential could cause brake failure and you to crash if the brakes fail to work....#1. ONLY USE the PROPER GREASE to lube the caliper to pad slide areas. DO NOT USE WHEEL BEARING GREASE FOR THE CALIPER SLIDES ETC. WHEEL BEARING GREASE WILL ATTACK THE RUBBER COMPONENTS OF THE CALIPER AND SWELL THEM UP/RUIN THEM. Additionally the heat from braking will BAKE the wheel bearing grease and make it rock hard and keep the pad from sliding eventually......#2..Also there IS a procedure to adjust the wheel bearings the manual has that procedure.... SEE THE INCLUDED LINKS.... for the special lubricant for the slide areas and the other link to show how to properly adjust the run out for the front wheel bearings. #3. When FOOT BLEEDING the brakes, be sure NOT TO BOTTOM OUT THE BRAKE PEDAL.....DONT LET the brake pedal GO ALL THE WAY TO TOUCH THE FLOOR. The master cylinder will be ruined if you push its seals past the machined area where they ride into the unmachined area of the bore the seals for the master cylinder are housed in. Its unfortunately very easy to Push the brake pedal to far toward the floor when FOOT bleeding. When the pedal travels too far, the internal master cylinder seals will slide past the smooth machined area they are supposed to be in and instead travel past that smooth area onto the unmachined and rough area of the bore. The seals if rubbed on this unmachined area will then have tiny abrasions in the seals that may cause the pressure not to hold or in technical terms "by pass".. If you cant attach a power bleeder which is the best way to bleed the brakes (check the manual for the proper pressure to use with the power bleeder unit.... memory says its 10psi), In absence of a power bleeder, A trick to keep the brake pedal from traveling to far in pedal bleeding is to put a book that is about an inch and a half thick between the floorboard and the brake pedal so the pedal cant travel too far. The travel area for those seals under normal use is really not very far of an area and the machined area is only just longer than that. Be careful bleeding the brakes using the foot method. Links: Brake slide lube..... www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj1_amFwMz4AhVcPa0GHZpqAUwYABAKGgJwdg&ae=2&sig=AOD64_2tX3vzRlJJjU13o0goBAR4qBGyCQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwi2qaCFwMz4AhV2EEQIHRCKCAoQ9aACKAB6BAgBEGU&adurl= How to adjust the front wheel bearing run out. PLEASE READ MY COMMENTS for THAT VIDEO...... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cC56YOBYFKo.html
