Thanks! I’m getting ready to recondition a guitar and buffing the frets was the reason I was putting it off! I hated dealing with the dust and fine shavings as it breaks down. Then cleaning off any tools that might have gotten them on them. This is a great tip.
Beg your pardon. NOT a single thing wrong with 0000 steel wool. You can clean BOTH your fingerboard and frets at the same time. Wipe off any residue with a paper towel or keep a magnet under your neck. Put on your favorite board oil. IF concerned about pickups, simply masking tape over them. Not that hard. Been doing all that for years, and been playing guitar for 62+ years. Don't waste your money on junk.
Antiquated way of thinking and doing stuff. Why make it harder than you have to? No need to mess around with extra magnets or taping off pickups if you use a modern buffing setup.
I remember a shop owner tried to flog me a used one for £200 back in 2019 even though I had a JVM410H at the time which I still have. Of course I said no 😂
good, BUT nail polishing pads are made for nails and not metal, thus they buff themself more than metal. They will do the job, but not to the mirror finish. I know, because I use them on my frets. I buff the frets and then use the steel wool for the finishing. You will see and feel the difference between polishing frets with the finest nail pad on the planet, and then doing 5 passes with a 0000 wool.
Not true. Nail buffing pads are the same as Micromesh which is fine for doing metals as that’s part of its design. You can easily get to a mirror finish with buffers in the same way you can with a micromesh pad. Steel wool is trash and it’s 2024, there are better materials for polishing that won’t result in fine metallic dust around that can short out pickups and electronics. Even synthetic steel wool is better
@@drgearaustralia The dust is the main problem that is true. BUT, unfortunately, it still gets you the best results. I'm saying this, BECAUSE I search for an alternative as well. I do feel you, man. And no, Micromesh is kinda weak as well. The thing with those is that they will polish frets, but not to the point of strings smoothly gliding on top of them, which is the best fret feeling and my goal. TBH, the micromesh finish will be fine for most people, BUT doing steelwool AFTER THAT will give you EVEN BETTER results. That is what I do. P.S.: I haven't tried those StewMac fret rubber erasers and what not, but I heard that they are not that good as well.
It's a bit sad how you have to slag off the competition like you are the only one who knows shit. Replacing the transformer because it's 10 years old WTF? Caps maybe if it has very high hours. I remember when I was selling boutique Virgil Arlo pickups for $1000 and you slagged me off "ridiculous! just some wire and some magnets" and now you sell $1000 Custom Shop SD pickups. Rubbishing early Mesa amps! Hilarious!
Whatever dude. You obviously didn’t watch the video or listen to anything I said so there’s nothing else to say. Besides, I can see old conversations we had several years ago and you’re not worth taking seriously and have no real standing for any criticism.
There’s gonna be more streams and videos coming up and I’m gonna try to start doing at least one a week with international times more suitable. I launched memberships yesterday and there’ll be a once a month stream for members to check out where it’s a little different with more direct interactions and such.
@@drgearaustralia Are you considering Patreon? They give you more of the membership dollars than Google. Plus they have a pretty cool app that allows members to chat with each other. I would happily add your and Brad's channels to my small list of Patreon memberships.
However long a piece of string is. Everyone’s frets tarnish at different rates due to climate, playing time, amount you sweat, how often you change your strings etc etc.
Ah I’ll get around to doing some streams that more align with the UK/US when I get on top of things. Probably do some more q&a and tech talk type streams too.
How long is a lifetime? What happens if EQD goes under? What happens if they get bought out and the new company doesn’t want to keep honoring the warranties? A lifetime warranty means nothing if the unit can’t be repaired outside of the company.
@@drgearaustralia lol..just saying i bought a used plumes pedal last year and it broke somer how and i contacted them and i sent it to them and they sent me a new one. i had ne reciept or anything. but yeah it is a bonus being able to repair.even better when you dont
And I'll bet that the cause of the fuse blowing is the dreaded conductive PCB syndrome that some of these Marshall DSL series amps tend to suffer from.
What? If you watched the video you’d know the issue was shorted power caps. These new Asian made models are made in an entirely different factory using different board fabricators.
And I'll bet that the cause of the fuse blowing is the dreaded conductive PCB syndrome that some of these Marshall DSL series amps tend to suffer from.
It can be one of two possibilities, 1, a short in the power transformer's primary windings, or 2, a short in the power transformer's secondary winding/s, either way, I'd replace the power transformer as a matter of course.
Resistors 8 and 9 are in direct contact with the trace going from C 24/ R 49 to R 11. Heating and cooling or arcing can break thru the insulation causing a direct short between R 8 and R 9 and the trace in turn shorting C 21 and/or C 22 to the trace. Smokes R 49 when switched to low power. Design flaw! Lifting R 8 and R 9 away from the trace solves/prevents the problem.
I happen to have a couple of old LCR Dual 50uF/500V DC Electrolytics that came out of a mate's JCM 800 (the one with reverb and two footswitchable channels), the date codes on them both read 89-21, one of them shows a distinct small bulge in the sealing bung, by my rough reckoning they are almost 30 years old by now, I read somewhere that most electrolytic caps have a useful lifespan of about 20 years before they need to be replaced, so I wouldn't put any trust in my two LCR caps.
Old caps, in the bin. Life span of most electrolytic caps at that voltage is around 10 years. Beyond that, the chances of spontaneous failure rise substantially. Those bulges indicate the caps are well past their best before and should be replaced.
Thanks a lot for wasting 20 minutes of my time but all of this could’ve been done in five. And you still never showed actually installing the pick up under the bridge.
I have an Epiphone MKH Origins 7 string, and the Alnico pickup sometimes goes bad in Voice 1 and 2 after playing on it for 1-2 hours. Output becomes incredibly low and does a humming noise, like a grounding issue. In Voice 3 it's okay but the output is still like 70% of normal. I've also swapped the neck and bridge pickups to see if it's a wiring issue but it isn't. I guess I will have to get a replacement from Fishman.
Two doubts, does that tool work properly to polish the frets' ends (to get a smoother neck)? On the other hand, in UK, Is that kind of tool available in drugstores? Thanks in advance.
No idea what you’re referring to on the first part. These are to remove tarnish from frets and polish them to a shine. As for availability, have you followed what I said in the video and gone to some place that sells beauty supplies or performed a simple Google search?
@@drgearaustralia Thank you. Sorry, it is because I am not a native English speaker. I had refretted the instrument recently and, although I have been smoothing the fret ends for ages [I don't know if it is correct or not, to me, a "fret end" is the point where I cut the fret wire {with pliers} before inserting, each fret, into the fingerboard]) the fact is that I did not achieve to give a rounded shape to the fret ends (although I have been trying to smooth them with metal wool)... That is why I ended up watching this video, and I was wondering if those nail buffers could be helpful in order to smooth and give a round shape to the fret ends (basically that is why I sent my first message). Thank you again.
@@drgearaustraliaSorry your answer was quite rude to be honest, I have the same issue but reading your answer, asking is pointless. So why do you ask viewers to leave a comment then?
@@gerardoromano3436 then you either didn't watch the video or read my reply to the commenter above. This is simply for removing tarnish from frets and polishing them, it's got nothing to do with refretting or removing burrs or excess material from the fret. If you find it rude then I'd say that's a cultural difference as I'm not a fan of having to pad out what I say with needless pageantry and being round about when being direct is far simpler. Ultimately I'm giving advice for free, so I don't owe anyone anything.
Usually at music stores that have repair departments on hand they have used parts in bins for sale. The ESP Craft House I visited the other day had bunches of random parts.
