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The rings were stuck with all the rust that locked up the pistons in the first place. Anytime an engine is seized from rust, the rings are full of junk too and will not come clean and free floating just by running the engine. That will score the cylinder walls. A smart mechanic would pull the engine and clean the pistons and rings right. And reseat the exhaust valves. It didn't sound like a good, refurbished engine. Use a wire wheel attachment for a grinder and a drill to clean surfaces. It cuts through rust and carbon without taking any metal. A wire brush on a bench grinder is good for cleaning bolts, valves and other smaller items.
I remember hauling grain with those. Added more acres and needed bigger trucks. Went to Petes and Kenworths. Still got a soft spot for those old GM Trucks.
We had a bunch on the bunch as well, some with a straight 5 speed and some split. They certainly arent speed demons, but they were always very reliable and got the job done
Not really sure, dont have it anymore. Best thing i could tell you is wrap a rope around and measure. Thatll get you pretty close and can go from there. Just a regular V belt.
You should never push down on the hand crank when starting any old tractor because if the engine “kicks” when starting it can break your arm. Always start by pulling up from the bottom and do quick half pulls.
My1950 VAC has a diamond plate 6x6 plate step in front of clutch. Makes it much easier on the operator. Mounting bracket is 8" from deck to step. My rear light was mounted on right fender. Have not seen another mounted this way. I use a 5' rear blade for driveway, ditching, snow removal, post hole digger, etc. Would not suggest moving wheels in. Strong possibility of a roll over.Also, i did not see the crank on yours . BTW you may want to check the screen for gas tank. Had to replace mine last year for first time, bad shape. Enjoy this gem.
I'll be using mine with a rear blade also! just to maintain my lane and what not. The 1952 VAC(going over that one now)that came with this one is the VAC13, 34" rear tires and adjustable wide front. Just as nice. That has the headlights on the side panels which is a much better position, and also has the step. I don't have any hills on my property, but I decided to leave the rear wheels spaced the way they are.
My name is Tom. You have a very nice 1950 VAC. My dad got the same tractor back in the late sixties.To start with your lights are the older 42-49 models. Late in 49 Case came out with the eagle hitch so they didn't have to pay Harry Ferguson for his three point hitch. AC came out with snap coupler/ IHC came out with Fast Hitch, and JD had the tool bar setup. Case made the eagle hitch to compete with Ford's 8N, but Case added the low pressure live hydraulic system to operate the three point system, Late in 1949 is when the eagle hitch was born. Case didn't use the hitch on the S or D series until 1953 and at that time they increased the displacement of those tractors about 15 percent at which time they also added live PTO too.Case moved the head lights to a bar that held the two side panels because they added a step on the left side of the deck to mount the tractor. I see that there is a home made bracket on the left side to help support the steering gear box. Late 1950 or 51 there was an edge wound hydraulic filter added to the hydraulic system. The hydraulic control valve on the eagle hitch is set at 850 psi. The case shop manual said that if you needed more lifting power to the eagle hitch you were to open the bypass valve on the eagle hitch and install one 3/8 inch washer under the spring to increase the pressure to 950-10000 psi.Most 1950 and newer VAC's came with the left hand deck steps.In 48-49 time frame case replaced the 9 ball fly governor with the two fly weight governor which they used into 70's or eighty's. And the metal cover that is around your transmission shift lever doesn't belong there. Once you remove the bell pulley you are to bolt that cover in place of the belt pully. I see that you have the M/S carb. Our 1950 VAC had a zenith carb. I liked the M/S carb better. Our 1949 VAC and the VAH had M/S carbs.Case went to the shoe brakes in 1951; 50-42 they used the disk braking system. In 1947 JD A,B, and G came with starter/ lights, and generators from the factory while Case VAC came with battery starter and generators.You could order a mag on the VAC from the factory speciel. If you have the over sized selves and pistons your displacement went from 124 cu inch to about 134 cu inch. Tom.
We don't have any rules on what the mail box can be made out of, the biggest one is the height. Pretty rural here. Which my mailman loves this setup compared to last one haha. But boxes are usually pretty well off the road around here and you basically would have to hit them on purpose. I also work for and plow snow for a local township and the only time I get close to mail boxes is doing curb lines where the plow is sometimes taller than the bottom of the box since those are usually right at the curb. Otherwise, its all good! Thanks for watching!
never really tried that, sometime i'll do first starts on 2 cycle gas, but this i really had nothing to lose, had a spare engine for it just in case. And after it ran for a while it kept getting better and better and is still running strong. Its new owner has it on the road and its doing great!
I have one but dont use it all the time. Sometimes i forget that i even have it. Some vehicles its more of a hassle to hook it up than just using the key, especially if you have to hook it up from underneath.
So glad you did not turn it into a derby car. For 79 that was a decently optioned car. You should re do the headliner it’s super easy to change the fabric as long as you kept the cardboard backer.
Sadly the cardboard was extremely brittle, and wasnt able to keep it intact. But i still have the car and srive it almost everyday with out a single issue yet
Found someone who is going to restore it. Sadly i cant keep every one i get, but atleast it will live on for a long time. Have aeberal others yet including farmalls and allis chalmers that have to get going and gone through which will all be upcoming videos. Thanks for watching!
if it was mine i would fix it and use it. find a 72 inch belly mower for it. you can straighten the grill if you take your time . fix the brakes .if mine i would do a rings bearings and valve grind overhaul the engine kit is reasonable from stieners
Found someone who wants to fix it up, so it will live on for a long time yet! Sadly i cant keep them all, but i do have several other tractor video coming with farmalls, allis chalmers, and more! Thanks for watching!
WOW! Many new tractors don’t start that well. She was trying to tell you that she wanted to go plow a field. I hope you can find some rear wheels so you can see what she can do. Might be a keeper for general work. Good luck. 🥸👍👀✅❗️
That's still set up for six. That's the original generator. Charging system is probably nit working so can use 12v. You'll just burn up the coil and regulator.Motor sounds fantastic. Doesn't get any better. Tinwork must be the only bad thing and rims.
The coil ended up being 12v, so maybe they just didnt get to the charging side before they let it sit. It was also already set up for negative ground, i believe these were originally posutive ground if i remember correctly.
I think you forgot to lap the exhaust valves, and set valve clearances. You didn't check compression on all four cylinder to eliminate problems there. I know Jeeps! You might have an intake or exhaust leak because of the way it doesn't idle well. You still have a cylinder skip. Set your tappets ! Those four cylinder engines are so reliable when you take good care of them. Have "fun"!
didn't forget, goal was just to get it running. had another engine for it incase this one wasnt able to be unstuck, which is why we basically just did whatever needed to free it up. It ended up running very well after a few hours of driving around the property and whatnot. it's new owner has it back on the road and its running great! very tough engines like you said.
Two questions. I have a 1969 CJ5 with the Buick 6 cylinder. Can you post the name/part no. of the carburetor? My CJ5 is in gear. How can I get it in neutral?
this carb wont work on that engine. you can just search on amazon, or google for aftermarket carbs for the that dauntless v6. thats how i found mine for the 4cyl. as for being stuck in gear....if you cant just take it out and put it into neutral then you probably have internal issues. maybe bent or seized shift forks.
You probably figured it out by now BUT the Solex carb has an "enrichener" not a choke . starting it warm will drive you crazy if you stomp down on the gas peddle before starting it . Also , just found on one of the army jeep vids , some Solex carbs have a wrong part in them . the bolt under the accelerator pump should be a one way valve NOT an economy jet . cool project !!!
