Looks like you quit making videos. It can be quite discouraging to not get subscribers as quickly as you would like. Still, you explain things well and have taught me how to do a diagonal cutting board.
I haven’t quit, unfortunately I temporarily relocated to a place where I don’t have sufficient space to set up the shop. I’ll be moving to a more permanent place this upcoming January and will start producing regularly again. Thank you for the feedback, and your support!
When checking that the in and out feed tables are co-planar, check at the fence AND at the opposite edge of the infeed and outfeed. Otherwise, you could have one side even and the other wonky, leaving them NOT co-planar. Also, the Jointer you have comes with a n allen wrench that fits the blade roller, and allows you to turn the blades manually. YOUR MANUAL HAS THIS INFO IN IT! AND, the optimum blade height is so that the blades (cutters) just kiss the straight edge, but DON'T move it at all. Did you even read your manual? (Edit to add) I have the same exact model of Wen Jointer.
A knife will stay sharper if cutting along the grain instead of across. If the user stands at the side of the board using left to hold and right to cut then a 30-45 angle will align the grain to the blade. The reason end-grain boards are good is the universal cutting angles options while saveing the blade. Additionally, creativity is secondary to content these days. Well done for having a crack.
A true re-saw blade would be a skip tooth, which removes the sawdust from the kerf. And usually 3-4 tpi. Doubtful you’ll find one in the size you need. Regardless of if you are re-sawing or flat sawing, its always going to be a rough cut. Its not meant to be a finishing machine.
I didn't exactly follow all of the instructions. I sprayed on my semi gloss finish with a spay gun and sanded with 600 grit sandpaper between 5 to 6 layers and it blew me away how good it came out!
Just like on a table saw, the blade makes a massive difference. I am sure that stock blade is pretty terrible and your results with a better one like an Olson. Good news is that bandsaw blades are MUCH cheaper than table saw blades.
I like you’re spirit, couple things, never under price you work and always pay yourself. Also too many people making cutting boards, take a course or two and make some different things.
Oh man have I haha. I tried making a thin ripping jig and just didn’t feel comfortable/confident using it. So I’ve decided not to rip thin strips on the table saw. To be fair, I haven’t tried it your way, although I’ve seen it being done.
Did you square the fence to the blade? Just as important as squaring a table saw fence to the blade. Out of whack will cause the cut to veer one direction, and excess friction.
Very helpful hint, I’ll have to look at the manual to see how to do that since the blade is so thin, I can’t think of how to do it off of the top of my head!
I'm having this exact problem with the same exact jointer. Thought that it was my technique, but I probably just need to dial it in. I'll give it a shot. Thx
Thought it was my technique too! Was driving me crazy! Finally decided to take the time to set it up, going through all the steps, and haven’t had a problem since
I had made a juice grove jig, it turned out to be a very good tool. i have made several sales. i added an extra corner well for extra juice that may accumulate. i had a very good response from customers.
Good Job Dude! Being nervous of trying something new but doing it anyway is how you grow as a crafts person. Doing it on entry level equipment just adds even more to your accomplishment. Well done sir!
I appreciate your support and praise! More often than not, I'm intimidated by new projects, but so is everyone else! I hope I can inspire others to just jump right in!
Thinking about working on this now for the fall project. Were you concerned about that very small triangular piece of walnut on the corners? There’s not much holding on to the rest of the board.
Beautiful work! You’re a good explainer/teacher and should keep making videos. They are well edited and professional looking. Most folks don’t know just how difficult and time consuming YouTubing is. Thanks again.
Thank you for all of the kind words, it means a lot! RU-vid IS time consuming, but I love the community aspect that you're contributing to even now! It makes it all totally worth it!
Considering how heavily the maple is flamed, I'm glad you made an edge grain instead of a end grain. It would have been a shame to hide the flame pattern.
I love this curly/flamed maple. I saved the especially flamed pieces to make some face grain, thinner boards that will really highlight the curl! Wood is just incredible! Thank you for the support and kind words!
I definitely need to invest in a glue scraper. Does it work well on dried glue or best on glue that’s still tacky? Thank you for the support and advice!
Great info on cutting boards man 🤜 🤛. You didn’t over complicate the process nor did you leave bits & pieces out. For the most part, all the info is there for someone to get started on making one of their own. Great job! Everyone that makes THEIR version of a cutting board has their own way & opinion on how THEY do it. There is no right or wrong so long as the end result is the same in the end. As it’s said - in word working, there are a variety of ways to do & accomplish the same task. Different machines, hand tools, mental methods, strategies, etc. I’m sure you get what I’m getting at 👍. Just keep doing you & how you do things & you’ll be successful. I tend to learn from either hands on OR from someone like yourself, being clear, concise & to the point without too much over complicated details that aren’t needed at that time in the process. You’re young, starting & learning. It’s a great time in your life to begin this journey & not only learn from your mistakes, but learn from others as well. Keep at it & don’t look back. Tomorrow is where your success will be, based on what you did yesterday & today! Well done on what you’ve accomplished so far. Tony 🇺🇸 - Central Coast Cali
Tony! Very supportive comments, I really appreciate it! I’ve learned that over complicating videos or adding in bits and pieces that aren’t relevant to the project at hand doesn’t make for great content! So thank you for affirming it! You rock dude!
Enjoed your video on 9 step process of mak8ng a cutting board. This step process is what works best for me. My next step is to make me a juice groove jig. Going to watch your video. Look forward to your next video.
Thank you! Your words are surely appreciated! I don’t always just like to show the success story, with any good project there will be mistakes and lessons learned.
Over engineered. What about flexing on the big block out at the end? What if you just added the end piece (lil shorter) with threaded insert and knob. This way the big block wood will always be up against the fence. Not hanging out in space
100% the way to do it is the way you suggested, I came to that realization at the end of the build. I just haven’t redesigned it because I still have the issue of kickback on the stock as it runs through the table saw. Any suggestions? I’ve resulted to just using a bandsaw
@@FiveOClockWoodshop maybe a sacrificial piece of wood to hold down cut wood to prevent kickback. This piece of wood mounted on big block wood and adjustable up down for diff heights
This is beautiful. I love how you lay it out ahead of time. It really helped me visualize what you were trying to accomplish. I'm going to give this a try. Thanks!
Thank you so much for the kind words and support! Best of luck on your attempt, don’t hesitate to reach out if you need any help or have any questions not answered in the video!
@FiveOClockWoodshop I sure will. Thanks again. I know making videos takes a tremendous amount of time and effort. I appreciate your willingness to share with me. Best C
@@FiveOClockWoodshop After watching many, many videos this was the one that helped me to make the juice groove jig. The three-dimensional images were a great help!
Nice to see a fresh face in the youtube woodworking space. Keep it up my friend. You have a good demeanor. Maybe consider shortening the videos? Anyway, you know whats up.... good luck! Subbed!
Your support and words of encouragement are well appreciated! Thank you! I agree, the struggle is always between making videos that just showcase the work and videos that are meant to teach! I often go into a video with one or the other in mind and then end up in teaching mode.
I’ll have to look into that link, thanks so much for letting me know! For a quick fix, email me at “fiveoclockwoodshop@gmail.com” and I can send a set of the plans!
I have the exact same Jointer ... having issues with the leveling of the tables. Will try what you said tonight ! Thanks for being more specific than most ... helps us "not so professional" hobbyists!!!!
I feel like a “not so professional” hobbyist myself! Haha, but I’ve learned a lot, especially when fine tuning this particular jointer. So glad I could help! Let me know if you are still have issues!
tried to make one with plywood also and had the dame issue so i made them out of white pine, dimensioned it and put the threaded insets in. works much better now
Yeah I’m not sure why I expected the plywood to hold the threaded inserts but it sure was a pain to find out that it wouldn’t work! Glad it worked out for us both in the end.
Ive found that if i stain with a foam pad brush wipe witha rag then come right fback over it with a heavy finish coat foam roller with clear gloss. It allows me to have it done in one day and if you wait a dsy then do a second coat you get that thick glass covered look, i prefer the 1 coat each method for stairs and double gloss for anything else
I’ve seen thick layers applied before to decrease the number of coats, while keeping the durability of the finished topcoat. My only concern would be pooling, or drip marks! But I think using a foam roller like you do would help to prevent that. Great idea!
One thing I’d change. Rather than using couplings on the four legs, heat the pipe and let it custom mold onto the vacuum mounts. PVC when heated becomes like rubber until it cools, so you can even stretch it.
A 1200 watt heat gun will work. It’s can also exceed the melt and start scorching it. A torch quickly exceeds the scorch temp. You want about 220 degrees. Boiling water is enough to bend and mold PVC, but it’s so close to the lower temp, that as soon as the boiled PVC touches anything cooler, it becomes rigid again. So boil water is great for bending PVC only.
