Welcome to The Trail Ahead of Us! Gear, vehicle and trail reviews. Inspiring people to get out and explore. To go on overlanding adventures, and to see what this beautiful country has to offer. Travel along as we journey in our 2017 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon JKU.
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Yes you are right. People like this guy should not be making repair videos. He doesn't even know how a ball joint works. Try using an Allen wrench in the top of the ball joint!
Thank you for the comment. Being "this guy" I actually do know what ball joints are for and how they work. As I stated in the video and in previous comments, what I experienced wasn't something I had seen or dealt with and was very honest about not knowing how to resolve it. The shop I work with also mentioned not seeing this before. Oh well, things happen and in every video I post, I make it clear I'm learning these things as I go. It's my experience, my efforts and my mistakes. I'll keep posting videos. Have a great week!
Didn't realize you could use group 34 batteries. I thought it would only work with group 25 series and have been having a different time sourcing the group 25 series batteries locally
Yes. I originally was told the Optima battery I had would fit but it wasn't even close. The Group 34 batteries are not cheap but fit perfectly. I haven't had any issues with these batteries so far.
NO complaints. The only thing I'll say is, I live in Florida and I knew the salt air and humidity would play a factor. The Gold Zinc has faded a bit, but I guess that's to be expected? Not sure, but they've held up well and still look great.
Working with wiring is always intimidating (for me). I have a 2019 Wrangler JL with the Genesis Dual battery kit. I will say, the videos posted by Genesis are 10 out of 10. After the install the system works great. The small issues I have run into since the install were quickly resolved by Mike and Shane. My install was over a year and I am completely happy with it!
I totally agree. I wish I could do more, especially with wiring, but this was a bear of a project and I still feel dumb about the mistakes I made. lol Thanks for sharing, I do love the system and setup. Any time something can be clean and organized, count me in.
Thank you. I was mainly worried about slipping while climbing in and out. So far, that hasn’t been an issue. Time will tell. I do need to go back in, on the driver side and rework all the wiring coming through the firewall. It’s been on the list of things to do and this install reminded me, it needs to get done. lol
I will say, from the events I’ve been to, ArmorLite usually shows up and has good deals at the event. If you decide to go this route, maybe catch them at an event?
I have this product and it does absolutely nothing for water. The outside sides don't come up high enough so rain gets underneath the flooring. Wish I would've just did spray on bed liner like I was going to do. Unfortunately I fell for the hype at one of the shows.
@@ScottyP82 Damn, that’s unfortunate. I live in Florida and sadly, off-roading here is fire roads which are all muddy and clay. Which is why I avoid them most of the time, but still. I had hoped the one piece design would allow for easy clean up and water control. Thanks for the info, I’m always interested in what others have to say about these things.
@thetrailaheadofus I too am in Florida so I feel your pain. I am thinking about maybe trying some kind of silicone on the low sides to help with this problem. The flooring does help with noise and heat just wish it did better for water.
this is why anti seize is shouldn't be used. more then likely it got globed on and what happens is too much lube or sealant will stretch the threads as you are tightening. only stuff I recommend is copper tone anti seize but only do half the bolt not all the way around. even half is a lot
@@camarofix thank you for the feedback. I personally am always concerned I don’t use enough when it comes to recommended lubes for the bolts. I don’t feel I over-lubed but at this point who knows. I still feel strongly that Florida humidity and the salt air where I live wreak havoc. I have this issue in several locations on my Jeep. It’s a constant battle. 😒
Thank you. Ya, there were a few spots I didn’t video as well. It had rained a few days before. Be curious to see it now, since we are in the start of our rainy season, here.
I have the MC track bar, front and rear, and the Rocksport Steering damper (MC), but have Moog tie rod and drag link, which will be “cloaked” when they fail.
@@thetrailaheadofus the only issue was the drag link adjustment sleeve was faulty, the last 1.5” or so was not threaded properly (burred/flattened), so I could not adjust it (pitman side tie rod end) properly, stopped when I needed another 1” of adjusting my steering wheel. I ended up using the one from the Mopar unit I replaced, and they would not let me send that part back alone for a replacement, all or nothing, so I just said forget it and kept the Mopar sleeve on, works perfectly, just an issue with Moog’s Quality assurance process. It’s literally a $20 part, but they should make it easier to replace a faulty part. Other than that, a decent tie rod and track bar.
@@TheSchmed Ya, I totally understand. It bothers me when an industry that’s skyrocketed recently due to how popular overlanding has become, that companies are still being like this. I’m glad you worked it out though..
I ordered the new track bar bolt kit (Amazon) when I did my front one, not longer uses the flag nut, but their is no play with the bolt in the track bar shaft in the head. The stock bolt had a bit of play, which I did not like. The kit has all zinc plated bolts and nuts.
@@msmliars908 Thank you, I really appreciate that. It’s definitely a challenge in wanting to do it the right way, the first time. Add in, learning as I go… lol And that’s awesome. I’d like to see the build.
Nice job buddy! I just dropped my video on the same upgrade on my 2011 JK. I have another video on the way - installing the control arms! Woo Hoo. Come check it out. I think we are similar in our approach and trying to grow the channel. You got yourself a new subscriber here.
Thank you, much appreciated. Learning a little more each time I I get in there. Glad to hear a similar story. And yes, building my channel one great person at a time. I’ll check yours out. Have a great weekend.
Hello Shane. I haven’t had any experience with the SteerSmarts products. I’ve heard good things, but can’t give an opinion on this. Maybe someone else can. I don’t think any of these brands are bad or not beefy enough. I had liked the TF (and still do with most of their products) and based on some feedback from friends, decided to go with MetalCloak products. And I can’t complain about any MC component that I’ve installed so far. Hopefully, someone can speak to the SteerSmarts. ✌
@@shanec.7105 I understand. I do think their Adjustable shocks are great. I’ve loved them since install. But, like I mentioned, I’ve been super happy with all the MetalCloak products I have.
Did you notice any difference when it came to steering with the new drag link? I have a JLUR and I have replaced almost all OEM steering component except for the drag link and even when aligned the steering feels kinda weak at times.
Hello, thanks for reaching out. I've struggled with steering since upgrading to the lift and tire. While I try and do one upgrade at a time so that I can see what differences it makes, in this case, I swapped the drag-link and tie-road out at same time. My JKU didn't pull as much afterward. However with my suspension, springs and rear track bar swap, is when I noticed a huge difference in steering. None of this stuff is cheap and while in my case, the drag-link alone didn't make huge differences, I felt more comfortable knowing I had done that particular upgrade. Hope this helps in some way. Let me know. Have a great day.
@@thetrailaheadofus nope… but I figured it out. The drag link *flip kit* is what requires drilling out the knuckle. Now my link is inserted from the top, not bottom, keeping it more parallel to the track bar after having lifted it 4.5”… with no drop pitman arm. But yeah to flip it you have to drill out the knuckle. Felt like another “point of no return; full commit” step on my all-Metalcloak project, but working out well so far. lol
"They don't provide any instructions, which is stupid." - Says the guy who didn't see the VERY in depth instructional video on Genesis's RU-vid channel.....
I’m addicted to metalcloak products too.. only thing I would add is that I am liking apex autolynx vs other quick disconnects. I want to change my sway links to apex eventually.
It looks great! It actually helps to have them a little longer in the front, not quite touching the coil housing. It puts the sway bar under a little more pressure, adding downforce on the road, making for a smoother ride. I got the 14.5 adjustable quick disconnects and adjusted them pretty high. You could definitely feel the difference 😀 Great vid!
Not a fan of music on any videos. (Except music videos). But your choice of soundtrack on this one wasn’t bad. The video was really nice overall. Thank you for making it.
It really is amazing. I try and go every year. It's always the week before the Rolex 24. Which I'm also attending this year. Definitely go if you ever get the chance.
This is part of the Ocala National Forest system. After doing the Jeep Badge of Honor: Tread Lightly trail, we decided to go back and explore more of the area. Here is our start point that day. 29.146453, -81.631592
If you still have the Teraflex drag link, there is a way to adjust the ends. May be interesting to you to try this. You need the tool that came with the drag link. It goes on a 3/8" rachet and has 4 prongs sticking out. On the joints you will see four allen heads. Two are set screws so keep track of which is where when you remove them. Then use the tool to gently turn the joint watching thru one of the set screw holes till you see the next hole the set screw can go in. Then put all the allen head screws back in and grease the joints. On mine, I could only go tighter on one. The other would only turn part way to the next hole for the set screw, and you dont want to force these.
Rust was a huge part of each suspension part replacement. Have had issues with rust even on factory parts, like this. Also, having that geometry correction was a good idea. Thoughts?
@@thetrailaheadofus yeah, I haven't had any rust issues... Just not a problem where I am, but I wasn't sure if you were having any geometry issues in the rear. I have a relocation bracket and the stock track bar and was wondering if there was gonna be any problems later down the road without an aftermarket track bar
I plan on getting the metalcloack track bar for both the rear and the front eventually, they're just pretty expensive. You know what I really want to get from metalcloack, is their drag link... That thing is awesome
Glad to see you clean your wheels on inside, I do the same at least once yearly, brake dust eats aluminum. Have an '03 4Runner with 4600 Bils and FJ springs. Just received my Dobinson IMS shocks so will be installing these all around come spring, I'm in northern Illinois.
I swapped out my fox 2.0 shocks for these on my JL a week and a half ago. Fox shocks were up for a rebuild, but it was going to cost more than just buying new fox shocks. So I upgraded to the Falcon 3.3's. Out with the Fox and in with the Falcons along with the MC control arm kit. I like the Falcons very much. I will, at some point soon, remove the bottoms of the falcons and set them to the soft setting as the performance setting is to hard. Even when I put the adjustor on the softest setting. But they are noticeably better in ride quality. Cannot wait until I head back up to the Rockies for my next off road trip in the spring.
Definitely sounds like you know a thing or two. Glad to hear someone else upgraded to these and is liking the outcome. I’m hoping to do some serious off-road testing over next couple of weeks but sounds like you have a good idea on settings. Thanks for the input, it really helps me.
i talked with the guys up at the local 4wd shop and they said to set the valve body to soft instead of performance. So if you have set yours to performance and its a bit to stiff twist the shock shaft the other way. They told me to twist it until it no longer twists. I need to read the instructions regarding that, all I remember is twist at least 360 degrees in either direction.
Hey everyone, they make a "nut cracker" for this. Craftsman makes them, among others and it can be had at lowes. I have one. Haven't needed it, yet. lol. but it goes around the nut, then it has a blade that will cut into the nut as you turn the outside bolt. They are not expensive either.
Teraflex was awesome on answering questions, advice on products and insuring the reliability of products to me. I even waited for a certain product to be, "revamped" before purchasing it per a TF reps advice. When that long awaited product failed, I thought no problem, yeah right. I was completely ghosted and blown off. That ended any more TF products going on my Jeeps. I felt so bad for you when I saw you start cutting and doing all that extra work, I kept hoping you would see where the Allen key went. We all have to learn somehow I guess.
Hey Jason, great job on the install video, super cool! It's great to see your real world experience with the installation process including the tougher spots. I was definitely worried at first with the factory positive wires going over to the bus bars! Ha! Glad you got that figured out. Just curious what happened to your original factory positive post clamp? Did I miss that part? The 5/16" lug on our wire is designed to fit perfectly onto the stud on the factory post clamp, so that's why it didn't fit onto your aftermarket marine style post clamp. The factory clamp is made of thin stamped sheetmetal, and over time it can stretch and become hard to keep tight on the battery post, so we do see some people have to replace that factory clamp, so maybe that was your situation as well. Anyway, good job of adapting and overcoming! Please be sure to reach out to us anytime you have any questions during the install or afterwards, we're here to help! 901-214-5337 or info@genesisoffroad.com Cheers! -Shane Smith
That's awesome. Curious, how was the weather in July? I def want to go back and tackle from the North side side first and of course, a few other BoH trails that I didn't get to do when I was there.
@@thetrailaheadofus weather was great but even at the end of July some of the trails were still closed due to snow.we had planned on doing black bear but it was closed.
I always worry about that and make sure that when I do any of this work, I torque to specs. I truly believe it's Florida's humidity and the salt air where I live. It's difficult to see in the video, but that TF bolt was stripped and rusted, badly. I agree, the TF does look thicker. If the end joints weren't loose and failing, I would have stuck with the TF. I'm still happy I switched though. I'm hopeful the gold-zinc coating will help with the salt air here. Thanks for reaching out. ✌
