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I would cut the stair brackets to the same width of the stairs, and have the front of the brackets cut at a 90 to match the face of the steps. Then they would be hidden.
I came here to see how to fix my bath panel on without screws ruining the look.. Cheers.. I didn't sit my flat like that though, I tucked mine under the lip of the bath so water can't get under it 😊
Solid (uncut) stringers are much stronger than pre-cut stringers you buy. They only have about 4 inches under the cut, while if you build it like this it's the full 8 or 10 inches. Ideal stairs are 7 inch risers and 11 inch treads but they can be a bit shallower to make all rises the same size: Very important. Learn to use a building square to mark their position. Very quick and easy.
Strange to put soil IN the keyhole, the purpose is to have compost down there...direct to the roots ! The canes are supposed to get watered by condensation at the coolest hours...
I did this in my previous stairs project. It came out crazy solid. I want to replicate it in a better way. Are there better ideas around this design that takes the entire 2x12 width?
What size stringer was used and are the treads the same size as the stringer ie; all 8x2"? Looking to make one for a self build as temporary staircases cost £200-£250
They sell chrome pipe cover, alluminum tape may cause galvanic corrosion due to an electrolyte like water going through 2 dissimilar metal, alluminum contains ferrus.
I know this is old now but…. PLEASE if you get one of those wastes as part of a package or if you buy one deliberately, through it in the bin. They are absolutely useless. The way the multiple parts stack together means multiple failure points. I attempted fitting one twice, used plumbers mait, PTFE, silicone… didn’t matter… the water just finds a way out.
Errmmm... It is completely fine to tile over painted walls, provided: 1. The paint layers have been sanded with an orbital sander and sanding disks GRIT 40/60/80, depending on the state of the wall. 2. Get an angle grinder (even one with a 4.5"/115mm disk will do brilliantly), and score lines in diagonal to form lozenges or diamonds. 3. Vacuum all the dust off the wall. Then spray it with a fine water mist until it changes colour, but NOT soaking wet. 4. When the wall surface is fairly dry (a little damp doesn't matter), proceed to: 4.1. Prepare and plan your tiling, making all the required cuts PRIOR to begin tiling. 4.2. Spread an ultra-grab strong tile adhesive (pre-mixed is better to avoid mixing errors) to cover the WHOLE surface. 4.3. Butter the back of the tile with the same adhesive. 4.4. Offer the tile to the wall, wiggle the tile around or sideways to bed it into the adhesive mass behind. Remove excess from the edges. 4.5. Use a spirit level and check the vertical face of the tile is 100% level, pushing to adjust until it is. 4.6. Again with the spirit level, check the edges of the tile are 100% level. 4.7. Referring to the instructions, use levelling spacers between the tiles to make sure all the edges are level with each other. 5. Repeat all the steps in 4.1. - 4.7. until the wall or section is fully tiled and complete. 6. Leave the adhesive to set for the time advised in the packaging, checking if there is advice as to grout after a certain set time. 7. Get an Epoxy 2-Pack Grout (e.g. Mapei Kerapoxy CQ or Kerakoll Fugalite Bio or Eco), follow the instructions CAREFULLY! 8. Epoxy grouts must be cleaned with water/sponge in TWO PASSES (use TWO buckets) and again after a haze forms. NOTES: Be sure to clean with water in TWO PASSES (TWO BUCKETS METHOD) grout debris, wait for a haze to form and then with fresh clean water, go at it again to remove any epoxy still on the surface of the tiles. Have a few non-scratch sponges. After the last pass, dry the tiles completely with a microfibre cloth and inspect all the tiles closely to make sure no Epoxy residue was left behind. Epoxy based grouts are brilliant, but once dry, are a nightmare to remove off tile surfaces. Here the extra effort pays off.😃
"The paint layers have been sanded with an orbital sander" ... assuming you can be sure there is NO LEAD BASED PAINT. In the US, be suspicious in any building constructed before 1978.
I don't think that would pass code in most areas. You have the skills, the tools and the track saw to make perfect stringers with a framing square. Always use three stringers and remember the adage for measurement "finish floor to finish floor" and you can't go wrong.
I need to replace some stairs that go to storage over a shop, they are outdoors. The originals were very similar to this but had metal brackets on the stringers to support the steps. Wouldn't attaching supports to the stringers for steps, instead of cutting the stringers for steps make them last longer as it's still a 2X10 instead of a 2x10 with huge sections cut out. I also doubt my ability to make all those cuts correctly, I don't understand why this wouldn't pass code (I won't be inspected but want to make them safe), other than not having a 3rd center stringer.
