Funny about grey/black frames in 1971. I had a grey frame 250 I bought in October ,although I didnt know its build date. Only ever saw black framed Triumphs.
Thanks for the interest and comment Jonathon. Yes all Triumphs had black frames and your BSA 250 would have been built before the end of May that year.
Visited the show on the Sunday which was far the better day if you were riding to the show, which we were. My brother was not impressed with the Sloper custom bike ! Did see you on the stand as we walked past but you were deep in conversation so I didn’t say hello. The red Mk 2 Rocket was very nice, I believe the styling and ray gun silencers were criticised at the time which I don’t understand. The Fury looks a lot more modern than the CB350 which I believe first hit the market in 1968 so I’m not sure there is much else to say ? I never owned a Japanese two stroke but I was pleased to see so many immaculate examples on display along with Honda’s of the same era, although as you say it was a shame that there wasn’t a Black Bomber there. Very enjoyable vlog !
Cheers Stew - yes I enjoyed the show and the early Japs too, quite right regarding the CB350 - it had collared the market before the Fury had hit beyond the original P5 prototype but the Fury in the end I think did have more modern styling.
I arrived about 9.45 on the Saturday morning. A decent crowd already there. As you commented, the weather in the morning was awful, which meant the inside halls were very busy. Felt sorry for the outside Traders. Fortunately it dried up in the afternoon. I felt it was a great show with some great exhibits. BSA/Triumph really missed a trick by being late to the 350 twin market in the U.S. shame. Congratulations on the award for the Fury.
@@BSAPowerSet Yep I can imagine - I am sure they were onto a real winner - apparently a bloke in Australia has a Triumph Bandit version and has covered a good mileage on it . . . A real pity it didn't get to production . . .
@@VonRyansExpress-v3r yes that’s Doug Fraser’s bike and indeed he’s done some decent miles on it. I believe Doug’s an engineer I believe so very capable of addressing any gremlins.
Hi Martin - I think it needed much more testing and ironing out of niggles such as the ignition side which they were still working on after the board decision to wind it up. It could have been a good bike but whether it would have made any money for the company is another matter.
Hi Angus iam a bsa 650 lighting 1972 owner 1 owner from new my dad , do you have to be a member to display your bike on the bsa stand as iam new to this game as just past my test and had the bsa of my dad thanks Mark
Hi Mark and thanks for the comment and interest. Yes for these autumn shows they are planned in advance for display purposes so members only and not ride in. The VMCC Founders Day event is the one to aim for as a ride in without necessarily being a member but why not join and get access to all as well as the other club events and services?
@BSAPowerSet Thanks I'll sort something out n hopefully see you at Stafford ,as I've started watching your videos with now being a bsa owner thanks Mark
You have got some very busy elongated weekends ahead of you ! I haven’t been to Stafford for a couple of years and have never been to the Autumn show. Was planning on breaking my duck on that one this year provided the weather is good enough to ride over so interested to hear that you’ll be there.
Almost there, it's looking good. It is easy to get the light switch connections mixed up, but the sidelight and tail-light are on the same circuit (together with the instrument illumination), fed from the same terminal on the light switch, so if one is working and the other is not, it's not a switch issue, but elsewhere in the loom. The battery would normally be fitted the other way round, with the terminals at the back. In fact, I think the terminals on the standard battery would be the other way round, but your leads are long enough to fit on that layout. I actually changed mine to the same way round as that one a few years ago, but I use a piece of rubber over the negative terminal to make sure it can't touch the frame at the front if it moves in use. That Trispark system seems to be a lot of faffing around for something which is supposed to be purpose made. I think I'll stick to my Boyer, which has been on mine for 31 years. Shouldn't take too long to sort out the remaining niggles. I expect you're looking forward to getting your workshop space back.
Cheers Rick as always. Yea I think the rear light issue is the bulb or connections that end - easy enough to diagnose and fix. It will be nice to get some garage room back and get back to the true Power Set - there’s lots to do!
It's been a monumental build, mate, but what a cracking looking bike. Electrickery -- complete mystery to me. You should be rightly proud of yourself. Give yourself a huge pat on the back.
What a fantastic looking bike ! Did my ears deceive me or could I hear motorcycles being thrashed in the background ? Where I live, just off the A427 Harborough-Corby road not too far from you, we regularly hear bikes going by being ridden enthusiastically. Sometimes it’s almost like the TT ! My wife doesn’t approve but I love it ! 🤣
Cheers Stew. Yes you probably did hear bikes - if the wind is in the right direction we hear them screaming up the A6 bypass hill towards Desborough where it’s a three laner. It motivates me to get riding!
Great video, Angus, and not at all exhausting to watch ☺The 'intuative development' behind the points cover was interesting. Why do these parts not fit properly? Why were you replacing the existing Boyer system in the first place?
I hear you Dave - yea the video was too long and rambly - I got carried away in trying to plough through the list! It’s amazing that the rotor seating is a known issue with some installations and that the professional fix is to machine its taper! Or fit spacers behind the stator plate mounting. The Boyer had failed hence the reason the bike broke down in the first place.
Thanks for the interest and comment. The original points cover and fixings are maintained - it’s the enforced spacing off the seat of the backplate and the ensuing additional protrusion of the pillar bolts that was the problem.
Hi Angus sorry to bother you but Draganfly have just posted on Facebook that a lady wants a toolkit for a jubilee T140. I don’t suppose you or one of your viewers can help? Are you going to Staffs Classic show?
Hello John no bother at all! I unfortunately can’t help and having scanned my usual sources, there don’t appear to be any sets/pouches at all anywhere. The Jubilee on my bench didn’t arrive with one which we could review. Apologies. Yes indeed I will be at Stafford as both Furys are being displayed on the BSAOC stand.
Hi Richard - yes I could but that’s the easy route and not the objective of the channel - we like a challenge with the original spec as mad as that sounds. A plan B though that’s for sure.
I agree with you, Richard. In this day and age contact breakers/auto advances are more hassle than they are worth. Even for the sake of maintaining 'originality'. Boyer of Bromley knew this in the late sixties. When you strobe a contact breaker set up there is a 'shower' of sparks at the point of separation - ie the plug fires multiple times in those milliseconds. That is not conducive to plug, plug cap, coil, whatever, longevity.
@@DaveFiggley i quite agree Dave that points and A/As need more maintenance but the components you mention were built for what they do. I’ve run twins and triples on points for many years with no problem. The Fury is an exception because ignition settings etc were still being refined at the end and we’ve had to machine up unmatched parts to create centre lines. The A/A is not fastened to the cam in the usual way so any EI would need modification. So challenges all round but that’s what makes us tick. I’ll persevere for a little while longer yet but thanks for your view.
@@BSAPowerSet Yeah, to be honest, I ran my 650 on both the original CB/AA setup and a couple of electronic boxes (Lucas, Boyer) and never noticed much, if any, difference 😀
@@BSAPowerSet I get that, I was going to go down that route with mine but given the PO binned at least a grand worth of original parts and mine isn't special enough to warrant that plus at least another 2k I've given up and will go the easy route
Good botch for the fork top/instrument mounts, Angus. That original seat pan doesn't look too bad. I've seen worse! A quick blast and powder coat would bring it back to pristine. Maybe buying the whole caboodle - pan, foam, cover - was the cheaper option and, if it fitted well, all is fine and dandy. Hang onto the original pan though. That could be part of your pension! I deleted a lengthy comment to do with the valve clearances on the 750s because, well, I wasn't happy with it. As you say, it is counterintuitive to have an 8 thou clearance on the, cooler, inlet side and a 6 thou clearance on the, hotter, exhaust side. By comparison, the 650s ran 2 thou inlet and 4 thou exhaust. 8 thou is quite a large clearance, especially on the 'cool' side of the engine! In my deleted comment I waffled on about cam forms and cam follower radii. It was all basically to do with how Triumph built a 750 and then had to start detuning it. I think the specified, gaping, inlet tappet clearance was the final stage of that detune - later lift, shorter duration, earlier closing etc. It certainly produced a lot more torque than the 650s but I know which one would arrive at the Plug And Moat first. I'm sure some bright spark on here will tell me I'm wrong 😉
Hi Dave. Yes the instrument mounts are a "practical" modification under the circumstances - it sounds much better than botch. We decided to go down the new seat route as we found one available and it saved a ton of work. We are going to sell off surplus parts such as original carbs and seat with seat cover. Re the valve clearances, I've read up articles on this and have reached the same conclusion as you describe based upon the different cam of the 750 to the 650. Anyhow I'm no engineer so likewise am ready to be enlightened further.
Hi Dave thanks for the interest and comment. I have a motolug collapsable two bike trailer. I bought it so I can store it in parts in the garage without taking up too much space. It works well but does flex a lot over bumps/potholes on the road so you have to be careful with securing straps as hooks can release because of the flex. I'm pleased with it though. It takes 20 mins or so to assemble or disassemble and another advantage is that it tips on a fulcrum at the front to lower the rear so you don't need a separate ramp. Have a look on their website.
Good to see more items crossed off (even if there are a couple added). It looks to me like those choke cables are actually throttle cables, because they are far too long (the only difference between choke and throttle cables is the length). The whole choke cable assembly should be routed up behind the carbs, in front of the air box, and fit easily in that space with a natural curve. The throttle cables on mine are the original 1 into 2 set up, and at the top end it passes through a hole in the right hand headlamp bracket, lined with a grommet, before going to the (single) twistgrip. I'm not sure if your twin cables would fit through there, though. I actually did away with the choke mechanism on mine several years ago because I never needed to use it, even in the coldest weather, but I understand you wanting to keep that as original as possible (I still kept all the bits, in case a future owner wants to return it to standard, along with all the other original parts I've upgraded). You may find clutch operation is smoother if you run the cable down alongside the top tube, rather than through the grommet in the gusset - it gives a gentler curve to it. The original terminals on the ignition switch wires are the same as you have there, and they do fit in the boot, although "flag" terminals may be a sensible upgrade, as you suggest. You may find you can salvage that damaged thread with a triangular precision file, if necessary taking the chewed up first pitch back completely flat and cleaning up the new leading edge. There would be plenty of good thread left, and I've had success with that technique many times, over many decades as a mechanic. Good luck with the next stage.
Many thanks Rick. Yes I agree choke cables totally too long but I've managed to route them OK I think and as you say I don't think they'll get much use! I haven't got a thread file unfortunately but have found a good second hand top nut for cheaper so that's on the way.
Angus, you should be able to get a thread file to clean up the top nut. They are an invaluable tool for cleaning threads and fix the problem of rags and dirt in the threads. Any hardware store should have them and all you need to know is if it is for a BSF/BSW thread (45 degree pitch), UNF/UNC/metric thread (60degree pitch)
Thank you @alexander and @howard for the info and clarification. I don’t have a thread file and the more I look closely at the top nut the worse it is so I’ve ordered an original used one for less than the price of a file. I did put the two threads together for comparison and the thread form appears correct - it’s just that the thread cutter has chattered or was blunt probably although I’m no engineer and don’t know one end of a lathe from another. Thanks both.
Just an amplification of all the proceeding comments re patience, humility and persistence from an equally impressed afectionado all the way from the Republic of Texas, USA. We too have been the benefactors of the enormous British contribution to motorcycle enjoyment and challenges. Otherwise said, y’all did good, real good. Thanks
Hello David thanks for the comment and interest. Which bike shop is that if you don’t mind me asking? I know of a Fury owner near Exeter and just wonder if it’s his loaned out or another that I’ve never come across. Thanks for sharing.
@@BSAPowerSet hi there’s a bike shop in Newton abbot , little industrial estate behind Newbury metals , the bike shop is at the end of the estate , hope that help , was there a few month ago , Can’t remember the bike shop name sorry ..
@@davidgibbings6085 Thank you David. I’ve done some research and think you are referring to The Motorcycle Company on that estate. Did the Fury look restored when you saw it?
@@BSAPowerSetyes looked in good shape to me , the shop owner was asked if he could get it running when I questioned him about it same colour as yours , ide love to see one actually running in the future , 👍
I always use silicone brake fluid DOT 5. It doesn’t absorb moisture so no internal corrosion, and will not damage the paint, it has a high boiling point and is none flammable. I Have been using it for over 20 years with no problems.
@@BSAPowerSet it’s a bit more expensive than regular brake fluid, but the benefits outweigh the cost, fit it and forget it, it’s that good, silicone lasts for donkeys years.👍 ps if you do decide to use it, make sure you flush all the old brake fluid out first, you can’t mix it.
Hi,Angus. I took several photos of a British market Jubilee Bonneville at the Isle of Man Motor Museum a couple of weekends ago and the tank badges on that bike are painted in with the blue. Edit to add: I also would prefer to see more gap/margin between that nut and the mounting bracket on the front brake hose connection...it is very borderline as it is. I wonder if the original flexi hoses had one of the threads on the crimped metal ends longer than the other end? I have now sent you 6 photos of the Bonneville I photographed via messenger...let me know they came through ok.
Many thanks Howard for sending the photos - much appreciated. I agree that there should be more of a gap between nuts on that front hose but I don't have an original hose to compare. So at the moment I'll just keep a close eye on it and return to it when the other completion jobs have been attended to. Cheers.
Another great video - thanks. I’m sure you’ve fitted the original front brake set up but the flex from the master cylinder seems to make a very sharp bend down to the yoke.
It does look a tight bend, but that's the way they are, just enough radius to avoid a kink. Another result of the engineers shoe-horning disc brakes into a bike that was originally designed for drums.
