At the end I was wondering if you might've put in on backwards, very next scene shows you scrolling. Thanks for the video! My gwolves HSK+4K scroll wheel SUCKS.
Old video but i have two g703 one of which is a RMA and started to 2x click like the original one i had. Am excited i ordered GM 4.0 and a pair of pink dots. Going to fix two mice for like 20 bucks total. Thanks for the video. Also used ur promo code @ lethalgamingn thanks dude
I'm gonna ask a really dumb question sorry, I'm still trying to figure out soldering, for this method... then how you put it back on? or I should pump it out with solder sucker or solder wick?
I know this is old, but can i pop out the cap for the thumb button without taking apart the whole thing? My thumb button does a double input somehow when using windows and google and of course i cant live without it lol. I dont know if it needs to be cleaned or if its just busted.
@@entsfps So, after doing some more searching, i seen a few mentions of it being static buildup, and can be "fixed" by blowing hot air into the slot... I tried and so far so good. But is it a switch problem, so i will have to replace it eventually, or can it happen anytime to even a good switch?
so you're using micro switch with short straight pin that for regular left and right click? I can't find bended micro switch for side buttons in my local eccomerce
Hey are you still doing mouse repairs? I found you through reddit. I have a rival 500 mouse the m1 button doesn't work completely and like 1 or 2 side buttons don't click. Is this something you're able to fix?
@entsfps I'm not sure if it's switches but only 3 buttons are giving me issues. I didn't wanna fill out the wrong info when I sent it In. So the specific issue is M1 it clicks but when I go to click and drag it releases. Button 13 (directly to the right of m2) doesn't click at all as if it's just stuck and Button 08 (where the thumb sits) when clicked will do the input multiple times
quick question, i tried desoldering my left mouse switch, but my solder iron wasnt hot enough so i had to kinda press harder and longer so i gets hotter and use the pointy tip to scratch off the solder lomg story short i managed to change my switch and now it wont detect any click, i know my switch is not broken cos i tried putting the pin on my right switch pin and it worked issit possible my pcb is broken now cos it stayed in contact with the hot solder iron for too long?
hi ents, first timer here. I just wanted to know how long am i able to hold the rod against the PCB before it starts becoming damaged. I don't exactly know where to put it.
Tried this but now the scroll wheel doesnt function, not sure what I have done wrong. I dont see any bridged pads. Something is wrong on the PCB though as I tried another encoder and nothing. I guess I didnt lose much since the scroll wheel was really dodgey to begin with and the mouse doesnt have a warranty.
@@Maxxman100 it looks like a normal encoder (3 pin) but no idea on the height of it you can send it to me to fix for you, i keep a lot of encoders on hand
thanks for the tutorial, the 3 pins of switch layout have polarity or mean something? maybe the middle pin is the data pin? i don't know, I'm asking bc the pads of sides on my pcb fell off
Thanks so much for this! I wouldn't've thought it was possible to open the Japanese Omron switches, there's barely any gap in the plastic. I ended up using a sharp X-acto knife edge since I didn't have any tweezers thin enough.
Hey, a quick question, if I do this, will I have to also swap out the Mouse Feet Skates? Since taking the mouse apart does require taking the feet off first...
Would another solution be to slightly sand the original plunger? It's a very small part of plastic and surely that would be safer than going through the hassle of buying a donor switch and the risk of replacing plungers.
you can try, and it may work, but i do this way because: 1 - no way to accurately sand the same amount on each plunger 2 - plastic dust will get inside switch 3 - i have thousands of dead switches on my workbench to use 4 - this is reversible
@@backupmemories897 no video, its just keyboard millmax sockets soldered to the bottom of the pcb, be careful to not use too much solder and get inside the socket
@@entsfps I was thinking to use Dupont female cutting it to smaller one enough to hold/contact for the pin. millmax looks heavy.. also i dont know where to buy millmax xD edit: gold millmax found it.. deym expensive 10 pcs = 2 usd.. dupont 100 pcs = 1 usd. but millmax looks premium
I'd like to see a video like that for optical switches, since manufacturers/vendors don't give measurements for those either and you find those in noteworthy mice, too, e.g. inside the Pulsar X2V2 Mini.
