@ShotByZy you are correct. And a pursuit has a "column shifter" with a toggle switch which allows for "manual" shifting. When that toggle switch is activated, the dash indicator shows "5". But when the column shifter is removed, and the the floor shifter is wired, the toggle switch is taken out of the circuitry. So now when the floor shifter is placed into "manual" shifting, it starts with "4". I researched how to integrate the toggle switch into the floor shifter, but it was getting messy. I'm happy with the functionality of the shifter now, and don't necessarily need to shift from "5".😀
Thanks for the kudos! I know what you mean about going down a rabbit hole. And that’s why I did the series, because I couldn’t find anyone that documented a build like this. There are more now, but hope this helps other guys like me get out in the garage and just build something!
@@1half.fastgarage don't feel too bad I did the same thing Mark Smith should definitely put that in his videos I've mentioned it to him I'm going to have to mention it again I'm getting ready to build two Volkswagen Beetle trucks add a 15 Charger widebody I love these things
Agreed. I should have known better though. I contemplated building a Chrysler 300 Ute and drop a Hellcat 6.2 in it with a stick, but might just try and perfect the WannaBee with some more upgrades.
hello i was wondering if you still have the your old shifter cable if so can i buy it i been looking for one for months dealership dont make that part and i tried all the junkyards in my state and the some in the state next to mine i will pay shipping and and what every you want the the cable if you still have it.
Hello. I’ll need to check and see how if I still have the cable. It may have been disposed of with the other parts, but I’ll take a look next time I’m in the garage.
I just noticed in your video around the 4:09 timeframe where you show the riveted front shelf support leg. This is a known Gotcha for the Charger kit <ask me how I know......... : - )> The Charger fuel tank is right up against the floor at that point. If you drill the floor there you WILL drill into the fuel tank. If you're not getting an EVAP leak CEL nor have strong fuel odors, then you're lucky and the rivets are sealing the holes. Most likely however, you will vent through the holes in the pop rivets or around the holes in the tank. I fixed the problem by cutting an access window and repaired the holes with fuel tank epoxy (the tank is plastic). That front leg should be BONDED not RIVETED to the floor. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the message. I’m afraid I may have done just that. I have been getting a “gas cap” message since the build was complete, and it did not exist previously. Great trick regarding an access panel to repair the puncture. I do smell unburned fuel now and again as well. This will be the project for the spring. Thanks for the comment, this is helpful.
Another culprit for the "Small Evap leak" code, is that you potentially damaged the EVAP canister when you beat down the rear strut tower (it sits right under there). This has happened to others. @@1half.fastgarage
Ok I have lusted about building one of these for 2 years. I have been all over the ones that come to Carlisle and talked at length with the builders I Have a 78 ElCamino project someone gave me almost completed. Once done will sell it and cut up a Charger. Now Mark has thrown a hugh monkey wrench 🔧 in the works. Chrysler 300 T or Chargerino ??
Lusted huh? Lol. I missed Carlisle this year but want to go next year. If your looking for a Chrysler 300 kit, I’d do that! I think Mark might only be making those kits available to builders or previous customers. I REALLY LIKE the 300 kit and look. So tempting.
There are two no 4 cavities listed because the chart includes both police and non police. The wire I was concentrating on was the black wire from the harness under the dash, since my car is police. There is not a black/orange wire on the harness under the dash of my car. Make sense?
HOW did that poly blue Shop Line basecoat COVER?....(Guess I could just watch the 1st part of video even Lol). LOOKS to cover LOTS better than my Shop Line 66 Chevy Mist Blue poly metallic basecoat 😕 LOVE the color (especially how it flops colors) But yeah, I had to buy another 2 quarts of base (after already buying the gallon to paint the car) AFTER painting up the inner cab back behind front seat, metal dash top/sides (66 El Camino). But yeah, mine took like 6-7 passes JUST for that and... That's NOT counting painting the actual metal dash (still in primer)....Course, it's a lot lighter blue 🔵 but..... Happy Restoring and Cruizin 😎🤘🔥🤘
Hi Jim. The basecoat covered better than I expected it too. It was pretty well covered after two coats, but I added a third, and had about a quart left. I've used this line before, and have had good luck. It might be due to the grey primer, and grey color on the fenders (original paint) that it covered so well. Glad you like the project!
Agreed. There are certain things worth paying the price for, and the next project might get sent to the painter, but I tackled this one on my own and I’m not dissatisfied with the results.
You need to do an anti model or control code for a drop coat when you're done painting the car you need to open up your fan step way back and give 123 dust coats control coats to get all the metallics even to eliminate streakiness cloudiness watermelon effect get about 2ft back and missed the whole car down evenly not panel for panel but walk the entire length of the car start at the bottom of the driver side work your way up over the roof Hood then down the other side straight lines only at least one to two times maybe three
No more Omni Omni Plus or shopline for me they all are pealers afterwhile double work cost more then doing it right the first time if you care about paint longevity
Thanks Tim. Well, that's just the thing. It hasn't been quite "put all back together"....yet. Finished cutting and buffing this weekend, and working on assembly this coming week. Stay tuned!
That sounds like a much fancier color than just plain Chrysler PQD B5. I think I might tell people it’s oriental candy blue instead. Makes it sound exotic! Thanks for the encouragement!
Sir, I started painting last May and improved heavily. The clarity of the clear (reflection) can improve greatly, I used to get so much orange peel which takes away the reflection. The "nice after spraying then blurry next day" effect. This is called dieback. This happens a lot with 4:1 clears. 2:1 clears tend to hold up in garage type environments. Finish 1 720 with medium or slow activator will give a glossier finish. And lastly, I used to spray clear 4-5 inches to the panel which is too close which caused many runs when I was a beginner (moving too slow). When I got faster at spraying clear, I would end up with orange peel. When I backed up 6-8 inches from the panel I got flatter finishes (more gloss and reflection). The dieback would still happen but less aggressive peel. The hood looks better because more material can stack on top without getting runs per coat and you can spray slower. When you try the same speed with horizontal panels, you risk runs or dieback from too much material per coat. Lastly, the gun for clear. I now use a Sagola 4600 extreme for clear. I started with Harbor freight (black widow) 1.3 and to many mechanical issues after cleaning. Then I bought a Kiwami 4 from Iwata (great all around budget gun with wide fan pattern. Then, I researched RU-vid and went with the Sagola because of the finish I noticed on videos. It made a big difference when I sprayed the same clear with this gun than other guns. Great job for your experience. Vevor has a spray gun that is $115 and has a wide pattern and finish is comparable to the DV1 CLear gun and the Sagola (both guns are more than $600. I'm going to try the Vevor also soon. For clears, there are affordable clears but they lack the gloss. Finish 1 720 is good for DIYers. Oreillys has eSelect Euro Clearcoat OR3401 which was super glossy and thick (you can feel the smoothness). This is $170 per kit and it levels well for a flatter finish.
Wow, that is a whole lot of excellent information. I really appreciate you sharing all of this with me. It’s so rare that I get to paint, I wind up forgetting more than I remember. The last project I sprayed was almost 7 years ago, and things have changed even since then. I’m certain I could have got a better result if I had brought it to my local shop, but that would have defeated the goal of DIY. Keep improving your technique and your craft, and you will make an excellent living doing what you do. Thanks, Jeff T.
I just bought a vevor gun. Hopefully the finish is better than the finish on the gun. I e been using a Kota gun, looks like the vevor, sprays primer, base, and clear well. Hopefully the vevor can spray some high build.
Thank you! I thought about doing that, but I seem to have trouble with runs and sags when I spray a flow coat. My approach is to sand 1000 grit then 2000 grit then 3000 grit wet. Then buff with medium cut, then polish, then swirl mark remover. It's time consuming for sure, but I hope to achieve a shine that is deep and without orange peel. Starting to work on the buffing tonight, fingers crossed.
