Hi and welcome! This is where I make woodworking videos and bad jokes! I hope to teach you how to build better projects and be more efficient in your shop while keeping you entertained along the way!
For business inquiries: biscuittreewoodworks@influint.co
Can someone explain the grits on the sander - it sounded like he went from 100, 220, 180, 150 which seems all over the place. Dont you start high and work low?
The sanding grit progression is 100-120-150-180. If it's still a bit confusing, I go into the explanation a bit more in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VSy22g9ca08.html
Great video! Liked the explanation of the 5 cut method because it summarized it in a way that I can easily make use of it instead of turning it into a science project. Thank you for the content!
Biscuits! Good information. I am just starting my journey. All I have is a jig saw, circular saw and a Brad nailer. I plan on starting out with some small sellables and buying tools with that money and working my my up . Good stuff to consider
That's a great start, pretty much the same I had when I first got started, although I had a drill instead of the brad nailer! For my first project I built a step stool for my wife to use to reach the top of the closet. I used some plywood and a wood stair tread from Home Depot. You can see a photo of it in the About section of my website! biscuittreewoodworks.com
Now that is what I call a beautiful piece of furniture, the attention to detail shows in the finished product. I would love to build a couple of nightstands in that exact design. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you! My 6 year old son and I had a blast making this! I feel bad spending time alone in the shop and want him to be involved. This was the perfect project! What kid won’t do a little work for candy?!
That is a good thing to keep in mind, but no I didn't calibrate to gravity. I always zero the digital gauge out on the table saw top before putting it on the blade.
6:33 My dad was re-staining his deck a few years ago and forgot about the dirty rag that he left behind. It burned a nice deep indentation into one of the boards. He’s lucky he didn’t catch his deck on fire.
You could use a track saw or a circular saw with a good guide for straight cuts. Otherwise, you can build them the same way they have for the last few hundred years which is completely by by hand using hand saws and planes.
The shooting board has several advantages over the table saw. First, you don't have to recalibrate the shooting board. When you move the table saw blade, you may not come back to exactly 45 and be slightly off again. Second, the shooting board won't leave burn marks, blade marks, or tearout. Third, with the shooting board you can literally take off less than 1 thousandths of an inch at a time to get your parts the exact same size. If none of those things are a concern to you, then you might not need a shooting board. I don't use it for 90% of the cuts I make. It's just for the really precise work like jewelry boxes or humidors where the tiny details matter.
I find your videos so thorough and helpful, but I couldn't find one that seemed to touch on sealing natural wood. Any tips for this? My dining table turned out gorgeous after sanding, and I don't want to alter the color, just seal it up well enough for daily use. 🙏
Hi Jennifer! You may just be searching for the wrong terminology. Sealing is typically a term used for outdoor furniture when you apply something to protect it from the weather, like sealing a wood deck. When speaking of furniture it's called finishing. There are two types of finish for tables I would recommend. 1. You could use a polyurethane like I used in this video. I recommend General Finishes Arm-R-Seal. It is applied just like I show in this video. You can just skip the pre-stain and stain steps and go straight to applying the finish. 2. If you want a close to the wood look without a film coat, then go with a hard wax oil like Rubio Monocoat or Osmo Polyx Oil. I prefer Rubio on darker wood like walnut and Osmo on light wood like maple. Anything in between you can use either. I'll link a video below where I use Rubio on a dresser. Osmo is applied in the exact same method, it's just not a two part finish that you mix beforehand. These finishes are more expensive than polyurethane, but you use very little so they go a long way. Here's a video that shows how I apply Rubio Monocoat on natural wood with no stain applied. I have a video coming out in a couple weeks using Osmo. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VSy22g9ca08.html I hope that helps! Good luck on the project! If you still have questions you can contact me on my website. biscuittreewoodworks.com
Card scrapers are amazing, and really need to be in the toolkit of every woodworker. Any place where you would use a sander you can use a scraper instead, and not only do you get a much better surface, but no sawdust. I repeat, that stuff you get is small, but it's not sawdust, it's small shavings that will not get into your lungs (unless you snort them or something, but in that case I'd recommend a therapist, not a dust collector). Yes, some of it looks like dust, but that's not the stuff that kills your lungs. It's the small particles that look almost like smoke that drift through the air for a long time after you sand that's dangerous. It's even better then Sanding on finishes. scrape each layer of finish and brush off and your ready for your next coat. No vacuum or water or extra work to try and get dust out of the pores. because there isn't dust. it's much faster and easier then sanding in that context. Did I mention the addictively smooth surface it leaves? The only real concern I tend to get from people is the worry that they won't have a completely "flat" surface due to how the scraper only scrapes a portion at a time. But this isn't a prep tool, it's a finish tool. It's what you use after your plane to get that little extra smoothness. Or when you want a dust free surface for a second or third coat of finish. the actually amount of wood your taking from the surface is so minute that the human eye and finger won't notice it at all, especially with a finish on it. What you get from a planed or scraped surface after finish is a smooth surface that still exhibits the grain and wood fully, not being hidden by thousands of microscopic dust particles filling the grain (and yes, this is still there even after water wipe and vacuum when you sand. it hides much of the pores of the wood. If you want that surface hidden and covered, then sanding is what you want. But if you have that figured wood, or even just an amazing piece of walnut or ash or mahogany, the you want to plane and scrape so you can feel the wood as much as look at it for a lifetime. Veritas sells a great kit for sharpening the scraper that preps your scraper in about 1-2 minutes including pulling it out of the drawer. definitely worth the price. Rob Cosman also sells a kit that uses your current sharpening stones and is just a different approach, either one is great, very fast, and worth the price.
Which boards are used for the smaller one ? I tried using a 6” for the base , 5x 4” for the sides , 1x 4 3/4 for the top offset piece and they don’t line up .
That sounds right, if you cut the piece like I show and follow the assembly instructions, everything should line up just fine. You can go to my website and submit photos using the contact form and I can take a look at what you have and see if I can help. biscuittreewoodworks.com
Awesome! Lots of people love these! You can follow along with the video or I have plans you can print out with step-by-step instructions on my website. biscuittreewoodworks.com
First, win the lottery, then buy an aircraft hanger. Fill it with the most expensive, state-of-the-art woodwork machines, including dust extraction, and then make this huge, heavy shooting board. Don't worry, you'll have plenty of space to store it because you've bought the aircraft hanger. Oh, I almost forgot, you might need some hand tools too.
It might look impressive on camera, but I'm just in a regular garage. My tools are pretty basic mid-entry level and definitely on the lower cost end, some of them I bought used. I've collected them slowly over many years saving up and buying them one at a time. If you're tool envious, I"m sorry. We all start somewhere. If this is something you want to do, you'll get there one day as well. Thanks for watching, and I hope you were able to learn something from the video.
The plane blade doesn’t run all the way across the bottom of the plane from one edge to the other. The jig is built so the sides of the plane sole rides on the platform and fence of the jig and doesn’t cut into it. The portion of the jig platform and fence that are directly in line with the blade do get cut away but just a little until the sole comes into contact with the jig. Hope that makes sense!
@@biscuittreewoodworksThanks, it sort of makes sence. Are you saying ........ the mouth of the plain in the sole is not accross the whole width of the sole. Lets say the mouth is accross 90% of the sole, so at each end of the mouth 5% of the sole remains, lets call each of those 5% bits of the sole 'the sholder'. In which case the first time the plain runs along the guide groove it shaves off a sliver of the groove below the sole (and the workpiece) until the lower 'shoulder' comes to slide along the lower side of the groove beneth the sole. In which case, so long as the side of plain is kept tight to its side of the groove, the blade won't shave off any more of the groove below the sole...BUt...it will shave off more of the workpiece if it is fed into the path of the blade. If correct it is very important for users to keep the side of the plain tight to its side of the guide groove. Is that correct? Alternatively.... IF the plain has a long sole THEN none of that matters, so long as the length face of the workpiece which is beind chamfered is much shorter than the sole. Wow...I hope that makes sence....
your problem with the angle cube is probably due to you not referencing the blade angle to you table surface. If that is not done then the cube will reference the Earth's surface rather than the table surface. ALWAYS zero the cube on the table FIRST then it will always give the relative angle of the blade to the table. I have NEVER found the cube to give an incorrect angle when foll0wing this method.
@@biscuittreewoodworks If the digital cube has a resolution of 0.1° then it has an uncertainty of 0.05° which is far better than your eye can detect with that metal protractor even if the pivot is placed EXACTLY at the center of the circle and there is no parallax error, the indicator arm is straight. I just think the thumbnail is wrong, a cynical person might even suggest it is clickbait. I am not saying this applies to your channel BUT there seems to have been an explosion of 'misleading' channels posting 'dubious' content of late on YT and, while I keep adding them to the 'don't recommend' file, they seem to keep coming; I suppose that is the penalty you pay for a 'free' platform.
@@michaellinahan7740call it clickbait if you like, but before you do you should check out the specifications on the Wixey website. The accuracy is +/- 0.2 degrees. The repeatability is +/- 0.1 degrees. This combined gives you a tolerance of +/- 0.3 degrees. That’s 6X the inaccuracy you thought you were getting with this gauge. That said, if the Wixey works great for you that’s fantastic! You don’t have to change anything just because some goof on RU-vid has a different method. Thanks for watching and thanks for your feedback!
The only thing you did differently was raising the board at an angle instead of flat on the sled. I found a kit source that is much cheaper than what I paid on Amazon for my 1st 3 boards. My wife has a tip. Use a straw cleaning brush to clean the groove.
@@biscuittreewoodworks I have been stating with 1" wide boards that I rotate and glue together like for a cutting board. Then any planning, sanding, etc. leave me plenty of wood. I just glued up 3, 12" wide boards yesterday and will end up with 6 cheese slicer boards. I use my Shopsmith in the horizontal boring mode to drill my holes.
I guess I missed something, what prevents the plane from cutting into the plywood surface it is sliding on. Love the video. Nice lighting, good narration voice but the music could be somewhat lower.
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback! The plane blade doesn’t run all the way across the bottom of the plane from one edge to the other. The jig is built so the sides of the plane sole rides on the platform and fence of the jig and doesn’t cut into it. The portion of the jig platform and fence that are directly in line with the blade do get cut away but just a little until the sole comes into contact with the jig. Hope that makes sense!
Very extensive research which involved watching a handful of other RU-vid videos and talking to several people. During this time I also learned that 97.6% of all statistics found online are made-up. Based on the comments I've gotten and the people I've talked to I'm at least 89.3% correct.
That's a beautiful chest and this is a great video~! I really enjoy your explanations & building tips/tricks. I've been woodworking for over 30 years, but I always learn something new. The trouble is not forgetting before I can use it. ;-) Question...Are you happy with your current track saw or are you looking at switching/upgrading/etc...? I'm in the market and Makita seems to be a great choice (I have some "F-tools", but can't see paying almost twice as much just to perform the same function). Thanks much & looking forward to your next~!
Thanks for the feedback! Glad you are enjoying the videos! I'm very happy with the Makita track saw. I don't have any plans to change anytime soon. Festool has some really nice tools, but I only buy premium when the premium features are truly worth it. I do have a Festool Domino, and will likely get one of their sanders and dust extractors soon because my current shopvac is on it's last leg.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Great to hear~! And yes, I agree that the premium features need to be worth the extra expense. I do have a few items from Festool...Domino, a CT36 Midi extractor with 5" ROS & their angular pad sander. The Kapex is out of range, but I've been leaning toward the Bosch axial-glide for some time now. A plunge/track saw is my "5m target", so I'm comparing (Makita, Kreg, etc...). Thanks for the positive reply~!
Yes, you should know your tools, but also their limitations, and how those limitations can affect your work. If you aren’t building anything that requires a high degree of accuracy, then maybe a digital gauge is perfect for you. Thanks for watching!
@@biscuittreewoodworks Just an observation and some constructive criticism: when using the angle gauge, you should zero it out on the table saw surface first so that its reference is set and then check the blade tilt, otherwise it is measuring 45 degrees to level, which your saw table may not be (exactly).
I don't see how just using mineral spirits will do anything. It's just going to flash off and leave nothing behind to block the stain. Pre-stain conditioner has material in it to block the pores and prevent blotching.
