This channel is dedicated to my various hobbies and interests.
When researching my Mini-Z drift build, I was disappointed to find there were few videos on the topic. This wasn’t the first time I was disappointed with search results, so I decided to do something about it.
@@AARNAVREDDY-i1b Yes sir! The AWD rip with grippy tires, it’s the best all around platform because you can drift or race around just by changing the tires.
@@singhysingh6231 in my experience the bearings were oversized, double check the dimensions on the wheel bearings you ordered. You may want to cancel the order
Soo i still have wobble in the steering crank and it seems like the play is in the bearing maybe. Is the mono just for steering angle or what else is the upgrade for?
@@JordanDeBuck mono shock is mostly for front wheel clearance on narrow front ends with low off set rims. It also helps/exaggerates body roll. As for the steering crank, just shim it up as much as possible. Some wobble is normal.
@@JordanDeBuck shouldn’t make a difference but I would alternate putting one on each side of the steering crank until you remove all the wobble. That should keep the crank centered & not affect the steering geometry. If that doesn’t help then the issue could be the play between the steering crank bearing & the shaft it sits on. You can shim that too using some super thin clear tape and slowly add layers to the post the bearing sits on. Hope this helps man, good luck with your build!
@@BMR3 hmm i did try some if the teffalon on there i wonder if the tape would be better thanks! I have no idea how you have a solution for everything:p
@@JordanDeBuck haha a lot of the solutions are universal across the different platforms, the biggest making sure to reduce/eliminate wobble and sticking points, after that alignment is critical. Once you have those sorted out your build should just need fine tuning. But to be honest, wobble in the steering crank won’t kill the build. It’s less than ideal, but at the same time you can still slide the shit out pf the chassis. If your getting gyro chatter/wheel shakes then you know you need to shim more. But if it’s sliding smooth, don’t worry about it. Just have fun.
I realize this is an old video. However, once closed, I would like to point out that the foam on the top and bottom of the case secures the car and prevents it from rattling or moving around.
Hi can i check. If all these fits the ma020 chassi? Because all i found was Mr015 group A. Really appreciate it if you'd reply 🙏🏼 because i just got into kyosho awd
@@GamerFromTheHood 360 shouldn’t be an issue. Try to stick with the skinny long batteries & stay away from the squat fat ones (like e-flight) & you won’t have an issue with space. I always mounted my xrx battery on the top deck, if you do that then you can run a monster battery. Good luck!
Assuming you’re talking about the 020, the RTR kit comes with all the parts you need. All you do is unscrew the rear end, change the spur gear to the longer style & reinstall the rear end using the rear most mounting holes. It’s very straight forward and simple.
@@BMR3 i mean i want to keep the 90mm wheelbase but want to use a body that is stock on a 94mm wheelbase. Do i need to make changes or simply put it on?
@@mosescheng5827 nice, if you haven’t already look into DS Racing tires (I like LF5). Tuning the tires and springs will make a world of difference. Good luck with your build bro!
Thank you for your advice! I will definitely look into that. So far, this is the only channel which provides clear details and reasons of what parts to buy and to not buy. Keep up the good work!
The ma-030 has limited bodies & the DWS restricts you to the 98mm length. Here is a chart from Kyosho, it’s not perfect but it’s a good place to get started. There are some bodies that will fit despite what the website says, the R32 for example. If you have Facebook join the mini-a world group and ask, they will have the for sure answers. kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/ Good luck with your build!
I’m new to mini z but I have an issue where I turned off the mini z and turned the front wheels left and right because I was trying to see how well it can turn each side now when I drive around it doesn’t auto center anymore it stays stuck turned all the way to the left or to the right does anyone know what’s wrong?
Sounds like the servo is sticking. Do you have a controller with EPA? May be able to turn the settings down so the wheels don’t lock. If not you may need to pull it apart and check for obstructions & clean it out. Good luck!
Video helped me a lot! I got my mini z brand new but wouldn’t work right unfortunately after trying everything, it would come on then cut off, I installed a new board and now it starts up great! It’s a little scary at first but so satisfying when I finished thanks to your videos!🙏🏾🙏🏾
That’s awesome to hear the video helped you out! Yeah it’s stressful pulling the chassis apart but so satisfying to do it successfully. Good luck with your build brother!
Hi, may I know where to purchase MPower parts? The front translucent plastic screws used instead of metal screws are to prevent plastic parts contact with metal parts abrasion?
Hi, What is the difference between DS racing mini F5 tires vs LF1 tires? Which is more suit playing at home smooth tile surface? And my shells are: Subaru impreza 22b sti & Honda civic type r These 2 car shells can use all narrow front & back rims and tires? And what are the indications on the rims 1, 2, 3 & 4?How to apply them on the car front and back? Thanks
most of the guys at my local track purposely put the radials on "backwards" because they get more grip *supposedly* personally i dont see ANY difference and think the entire claim that they are directional is a crock at such a small scale and shouldn't make any difference unless you are driving it in the rain in which case the argument is stupid...LOL
The one in the video was made by Hail Racing & it’s a clone of the BM Racing DRZv1 conversion kit, hence the red color to match the V1. Both are long out of production and very rare.
What’s the solution if you want extended runtime with minimal changes if you don’t care as much about performance? Like if I want my young kids to run at a more manageable to them speed for a long time are there battery/gearing combos that are available?
Very cool!! I have a Ma020 r32 kit(dark grey) the rear seems to sit funny againt the Ma020. One wheel seems to be a little more in vs the other and the same wheels seems to be a little off center in the rear arch. Nothings bent or something like that. Have you experienced this with the r32 mounting to mini z chassis?
Yup, it sounds like the little white tabs inside your R32 body are not perfectly aligned causing the body to sit awkwardly on the chassis. You can VERY carefully pry the white tabs out with something like a dental pick, or I have used the flat blade of an exaco knife. You just need to wedge something in between the white clip and the body and VERY VERY carefully & slowly pull the tab off. Sometimes they come off easy and sometimes they are a bitch. Once you have them off, just clean off the old adhesive and reglue them back on the body as far down and evenly as you can. Alternatively, you can go the full boat and swap over to magnet mounts. Highly recommend going with magnet mounts since it makes changing the batteries 10,000x easier & you don’t put stress on the body by prying it off the chassis every time.
If you’re gonna spend that amount of money on a nice RC track, it makes sense to spend a little more on a quality & efficient way to store it. You did just that!
The a/b1, 2 & 3 motor mounts match up with specific spur gear and pinion combos for proper motor spacing. Refer to the handbook that comes with your kit to make sure your using the proper combo
Is it the same situation with the ma030 compared to the ma020 that, one would need a very rare extension to make it work with a 102mm? Do you know if anyone has tried to remake them yet? I’ll have to do some further research, if plastic is just needed, I know a proficient 3D printer guy, and if metal or CF is needed I know a CNC and a lazer cutter guy.
You you will need a special extension regardless of the ma model to get out to 102mm, as well as a matching spur gear. Search around and you will find some 3d version you can order. They work just fine from what I’ve seen. No need to go full overkill with laser cutting, but that would be dope.
I 100% agree with wheel nuts, they are a huge improvement in terms of satisfaction lol I have three toasted plastic wheel nuts and every time I drift with them my wheels just loose itself So, aluminum wheel nuts are a need
Depends on how much contact area you want. I would suggest starting with 4 narrow and go from there. I run narrow tires on my AWD & wide for my RWD drifters. How this helps!
