Stick with Toyota OEM parts/fluid. You can't go wrong. I'm NOT going to use anything but Toyota Long Life PINK Antifreeze & carry an extra gallon in the trunk of my car, just in case.
They are called a clevis or shackle. Nice idea using the chain spreader. And by the way, if you can bend the frame simply by jacking up the trailer at a particular point on the frame and it bends under the weight of just the empty trailer then that thing is not safe to haul on the road. Please reinforce it before you hurt yourself or someone else. Scott, Vass NC
nice video hopefully inform more people since break system is very important so mineral oil swell the rubber, so avoid mineral based grease or oil to rubber part
A RU-vid used dielectric grease on pins, I looked it up and it's silicone based. I am doing my breaks and am confused. The repair shops like this confusion cause it gives them easy work. A break job on my toyota camry is 1300 dollars. I bought all the parts 4 rotors and pads for 200 dollars What a huge savings.
That grease you used didnt cause those pins to stick. Try cleaning them up with a wire brush. Also, after my calipers get to about 9 years old i get new calipers and braket and pins. All as 1 new caliper from Rock Auto.
In the 1980's they told us to use antisieze compound on those pins, then later on they said we had to use Synthetic Moly lube! Now they tell use we gotta use Ceramic purple grease! They keep blowing smoke up our asses! I use Mobil 1 red grease on my pins and almost eveything else! Zero problems!
I am genuinely curious about how the head gasket held up after putting that incorrect fluid in. There is a coating on the head gasket that Toyota pink fluid does not degrade, but other chemical compounds will. I also find it very humorous that somebody is reading a generic products sales pitch as opposed to reading the engineering specifications from the manufacturer of the vehicle itself. A very misguided video, and I hope that this misinformation has not destroyed anybody's car except the content producer's own.
I use Silicone based greases on all my rubber parts and never had a problem. I've been using Silcone based for about 20 years now. The Sil-Glyde yellows with age but it's still ok to use.
I can't believe Permatex sells that "Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube" and recommends it be used on rubber parts, and even states "Will not attack rubber", when it states on the back of the packaging that it contains petroleum distillates. Might as well use Vaseline. Vaseline is much cheaper, and is also made from petroleum distillates, and like all petroleum distillates, it is not compatible with rubber and wiill make it swell.
The guy at the Toyota dealer part's department lied to you. I have been getting that pink Toyota grease since 2007. It works great. Even better than the Sil-glyde and it's inexpensive. I also bought the Toyota black brake grease for the backs of the brake pads and shims. It also wasn't expensive. I think I bought the pink grease for $13 and the black for $12 not $45.
Good video but if there are no issues all you need to do is remove the old coolant then fill up with Toyota 50/50 Premixed Super Long Life Coolant. To remove the old coolant, undo the yellow plastic screw on the bottom of the radiator, remove radiator cap and open overflow reservoir cap. Sure won't get every last drop but will be close enough.
If anyone is still following this RU-vid site would you please comment on how many 5 sixteenths ball variants there? Was I stumbled in with this accidentally.? Ol boy...
The Permatex product clearly says it contains petroleum distillates - THESE ARE NO GOOD FOR RUBBER OR PLASTIC. Sil-Glyde on the other hand does not contain petroleum distillates and is safe on plastic and rubber. The only product I know which is marketed for all brake parts is Bendix Ceramasil Brake Parts Lube. I did come across one RU-vid video where someone said do not use Bendix Ceramasil Brake Parts Lube for brake slides. I don''t quite believe that video because the Bendix site says "it can be used on seals of Disc Brake caliper assemblies, all moving caliper hardware, rubber components, backing plates, shims and Brake Shoe assemblies. It meets the Japanese rubber compatibility standard JIS K 2228 with EPDM & Nitrile rubbers". I think I will be using the Bendix product as a one stop shop for brakes. BUT, as Thomas Hendricks states below, you must not cross mix lubricants. That means all old lubricant must be removed before applying new lube, unless you did the previous brake job and used the same product as you are using again. I think that is why Ceramasil is a vivid Blue colour to stop mixing with other lube. I'm not sure if it stay blue over several years. Sil-Glyde does go a dark brown colour eventually even in the tube.
I know it is too late for a response being a 9-year-old thread, but for future DIY freaks, here is an insight. I had a confounding problem with my Chevy Cruze Diesel for more than 6 months. The brake assembly used to be serviced the usual way at the authorized service centre by greasing the slide pins with appropriate grease from many different brands, but to no avail. I then decided to do a DIY of the problem and found out that the caliper pins were not the problem at all and neither was the piston rubber seal. The actual issue was with the front disc brake pistons of the brake caliper assembly. Do not ask me why, but the composition of the piston used in the Cruze Diesel in Bhaarath (India)is the culprit, which oxidized over time and inexplicably expanded minutely; I sanded it down and then cleaned it thoroughly and put back the assembly, and it has been a smooth ride ever since. Fuel efficiency too has gone up from 9kmpl to 14kmpl. In my particular case, the piston was the culprit and not the cylinder.
I wonder if you guys ever tried soaking rubber bands in petroleum product such as turpentine? When we were young we used to so and a few days later, the rubber bands swell up and tear easily. So, don’t use petroleum based grease on rubber seals
Bought a used pipe bender with a 12ton bottle jack. Can't wait to try it. Tried to use a farm jack but just like what's shown but it wasn't strong enough.
SILICONE ON RUBBER Silicone Spray is ideal for the rubbers that the side windows slide against. Keeps them supple and aids movement of the glass up and down. Won't freeze or crack. A quick spray and wipe off of any excess once or twice a year is fine. Five minutes work for the whole car. James Hennighan Yorkshire, England
THE KEY FOR RUBBER The key for when NOT to use something with rubber is if it states Contains Petroleum Distilates. Petroleum based stuff will damage rubber in the long term. Red Grease for rubber is the key to remember, and will likely say this on the tube, sachet or tin. I serviced the callipers on my Honda Legend, fitting new seals and pistons. Brake Fluid served to lubricate the new seals for the pistons. Whilst it can be a bit of a faff, it is a good idea to check brake calliper and pad operation twice a year. Quite a good idea to do this in the fine weather, such as late Summer or early Autumn, as this means no having to mess with the brakes in the winter.....something which is always a pain. I tend to still use Copper Ease / Grease on the backs of the pads and on the shims...and on the outer face of the disc, (rotor), (the part often referred to as the 'top hat'), which is where the wheel face makes contact. Although other Anti-Seize Lubricants will likely do the same job. A fairly substantial tin of Copper Ease / Grease will cost about £3,or $5 and last you a lifetime. The key with brakes is that they are functioning in a hostile environment where they get wet then dry, and hot then cold...all the time. I tend to focus on applying lubrication where it will function in two ways. Firstly, to assist the operation of the component, and second, to assist me when I have to dismantle something. So making stuff easy to get off really matters. One thing I would add, concerns the Brake Calliper Fixing Bolts, which we often tend to re-use these because they generally look to be OK when we change a set of pads or discs (rotors). I would recommend changing these for new ones EVERY TIME, as they tend to become really tight and hard to loosen....and they round so easily that in the end you can spend an inordinate amount of time trying to get them off. Best get rid of them when they start to 'round' in any way. They don't come cheap, at about £28 or $35 for four, but if you consider the cost of a new set once a year, at least, you will be spending £50-£60 or $80 for eight of them. Good value if it means they come loose easily. I would recommend some Copper Ease / Grease on the threads of these and under the flange, and I have also resorted to applying some multi purpose grease or silicone at the flange edge and the bottom end of the threaded part where it protrudes slightly once they are tightened. One more thing, I would caution against over torqueing these bolts. Despite what the manual says, Finger tight - then Spanner Tight - then Just a Fraction more will be enough. From experience I have never found these to work loose or fall out...and you would have ample warning, (as a slight rattle), if one were to ever work loose. I would suggest the old adage of tight then just a little bit more is often enough. Just a couple of helpful observations.... James Hennighan Yorkshire, England P.S. If stuff does get tight then ATF fluid 'wicked' as close as possible to the thread tends to work fine. I have also found that Brake Cleaner Fluid can work too, as it 'wicks-in' pretty well. Diesel and especially Paraffin work well in 'wicking-in' to any seized thread.....and they are cheap enough. A gallon will last for ages, with enough left over for any other planned pyrotechnical / flammable adventures. From experience using WD40, (which is a water dispersant), can be a pretty wasteful exercise when it come to freeing rusted parts....and you will vent more to atmosphere than you apply to the seized thread. No real substitute for heat on metal to expand it if it is seized.....but the precise application of the flame, (fine and high temp required), can be difficult at times without setting fire to other stuff. Just be careful..!
@@jessewynne8193 Please don't turn the engine on when it has no oil in it. The amount of old oil you are trying to remove is very small. The key is changing the oil and oil filter regularly.
For the last 8 years i used simple food grade silicone grease for the sliding pins, rubber boot of the brake pistons and Textar's Ceratec metal free grease for every metal on metal contact point between the caliper and the brake pads carefull not to get any kind of lubricant on the braking surface of the pads or rotors. Doing it every summer and never had a rubber swollen or pin stuck and all pads wear evenly. Also silicone is best for winter temperatures as it doesn't harden like other greases!
