You seem to be a promoter of a brand SilGlyde. Any silicone or a syn grease serves the purpose for less failures and ensures long life. The color is colorless or white or off white.
@@mem1001953 No, silicone and petroleum based synthetic based grease will swell the piston's square seals when rebuilding a caliper and cause dragging/issues. The correct thing to use on caliper piston seals is a lithium soap grease, such as Toyota rubber grease.
I know it is too late for a response being a 9-year-old thread, but for future DIY freaks, here is an insight. I had a confounding problem with my Chevy Cruze Diesel for more than 6 months. The brake assembly used to be serviced the usual way at the authorized service centre by greasing the slide pins with appropriate grease from many different brands, but to no avail. I then decided to do a DIY of the problem and found out that the caliper pins were not the problem at all and neither was the piston rubber seal. The actual issue was with the front disc brake pistons of the brake caliper assembly. Do not ask me why, but the composition of the piston used in the Cruze Diesel in Bhaarath (India)is the culprit, which oxidized over time and inexplicably expanded minutely; I sanded it down and then cleaned it thoroughly and put back the assembly, and it has been a smooth ride ever since. Fuel efficiency too has gone up from 9kmpl to 14kmpl. In my particular case, the piston was the culprit and not the cylinder.
For the last 8 years i used simple food grade silicone grease for the sliding pins, rubber boot of the brake pistons and Textar's Ceratec metal free grease for every metal on metal contact point between the caliper and the brake pads carefull not to get any kind of lubricant on the braking surface of the pads or rotors. Doing it every summer and never had a rubber swollen or pin stuck and all pads wear evenly. Also silicone is best for winter temperatures as it doesn't harden like other greases!
I just spoke to AGS Tech Support, the Sil Glyde can be used during piston assembly and the rest of the caliper lubricating points. Under $8 at any local auto parts store and Napa sell it also under their brand.
TL;DR for everyone: Use a silicone-based lube like 3M for the slide pins/bolts. Anything silicone is perfect for those, do NOT use grease, synthetic, etc. It has silicone from the factory, and mixing silicone with a grease or synthetic is asking for trouble. Some greases are marketed for being safe for rubber and good to use for pins, but you have to completely clean out the silicone first because when they mix it causes rubber swelling. I prefer to just use silicone so I don't have to worry about it, and don't have to worry about whether my grease will destroy the rubber. Use your favorite high temp anti-seize (like 3M copper for example) for all the other brake lubing to make it easy to take apart next time and prevent corrosion. Brake greases/lubes are fine for that too, but it won't help prevent binding and corrosion as much. In the end anti-seize or grease get the same job done everywhere BUT the pins.
Huh? Said simpler: silicone for pins, anti-seize for everything else. Doesn't really matter on the brand. Don't put silicone on the pins if you have greased them previously without cleaning them first.
I think there are silicone lubricants that say not for metal-metal lubrication. I have a silicone spray that's very thin that wouldn't be good for the pins. In the UK I've found it very hard to find any thick silicone grease. But I realised my pins dont have rubber on them apart from the boot so I put some cera tec on them. (No idea if it's mineral oil based)
You can find 3M silicone paste on Amazon pretty cheap. I think it's $25 for a giant tub with a brush. I like Permatex Copper for anti-seize, but any brand is fine for either. Just don't use aluminum anti-seize. Copper or nickel is fine.
My take-away is, all greases are lubricants (or can be used as lubricants, I should say), but not all lubricants are greases. I have been researching this for a little while now, looks like the jury has been out for some time on this issue, "petroleum distillates" is bad for anything that uses rubber or rubber-blended components, while silicon based products really don't chemically affect rubber or rubber-blended components in a negative way. I think the chemists at these companies work with a figurative "gun to their heads" while the marketing department does whatever it wants and needs to do to bring in the revenue. The chemists are told to shut up while marketing tries to rewrite the laws of physics. I'm sure the FTC would like to hear about this. BTW, I had a 2008 Yaris sedan, I traded out of it with 77k miles, which was a dumb idea, I should have kept it, these cars are bullet proof, and as far as the brakes go, for 3 years that I owned it I only cleaned the brakes out, pads barely wore down with 50/50 city/hwy driving, surprisingly good OEM stuff that is rare these days unless you buy a more expensive car.
+Leonel Ventura Love the Figurative Gun to the head of the Chemists analogy. That's the way we all work for the most part. Companies are all about marketing and sales. The people that make it happen take a back seat or are given the same consideration as a disposable razor. We are a nation of salesmen. We don't, "make anything work." Creativity has been lost in the process.
Most vehicles come from the factory with silicone grease on the slide pins and other brake parts that contact rubber bushings and bellows. If you cross mix lubricants/greases you can end up creating a very viscous and non-lubricitous material.
Great video, similarly I hunt for silicon paste by 3m but not found locally when needed. After much hesitation and label reading, I bought Sil-Glyde to try on my next Brake caliper adventure.
The reason most of those grease you purchased say do not use on piston is because they are not compatible with brake fluid. Only good lubricant I know for piston rebuilding is brake fluid. Grease supplied by Toyota probably is also safe to use. Was rubber boot and bushing that swelled original Toyota boot or aftermarket? I have used that same Permatex Ultra disc brake caliper grease for many years on my car, in slide pins and never had problem. But today, I found my rear caliper pin was stuck because bushing has swelled. Boot and bushing I used for rear caliper was aftermarket (don't remember which brand it was). (There were some rusts on pins back than, and that was the reason I changed boots as well) I'm thinking some rubber parts are more reactive to petroleum based grease than others. From what I konw, silicone based lube are safe for rubber, but CRC grease you have in the video suggests silicone based brake grease will damage rubber or plastic components.. Everything is so confusing now.. :( I think I will buy Sil-Glyde for pins since I'm using aftermarket boots and bushing again. (Different brand this time, but not taking chances)
The guy at the Toyota dealer part's department lied to you. I have been getting that pink Toyota grease since 2007. It works great. Even better than the Sil-glyde and it's inexpensive. I also bought the Toyota black brake grease for the backs of the brake pads and shims. It also wasn't expensive. I think I bought the pink grease for $13 and the black for $12 not $45.
When you applied ultra disc brake grease in Green tube,between shim and pad, did it give you any trouble? I mean when pad heats up did that grease became running and leaked down from the pad to ground? Thanks
Outdated manual, assumes brakes will be serviced annually A glycol soap based lubricant will absorb moisture. It's better than an oil base lube for use around rubber parts, but pure silicone grease is superior and will not absorb moisture. Silglide is a 30 year old formula silicone lube designed for door seals. Its only advantage over modern silicone grease is cost. Spend an extra buck per axle on pure silicone geasevflr your slide pins and your future brake problems eill be greatly reduced.
I used silicone lubricant on most rubber seals with contact on metals. But if a on high temperature seals, I recommended grease mixtures (thicker and non petroleum based if preferred). Metal and metal contact are recommended to use grease like lithium based or higher temperature based usually used in bearings! Mobil 380 grease blue is one of my best!
Red Lithium Grease #2 - 120 LB. Drum (Sale PRICE: $199.00) Here you go ➞ ➞ www.walmart.com/ip/Red-Multipurpose-Lithium-Grease-2-120-LB-16-Gallon-Keg/837899538
What about the grease they use for CV boot? That is what I use, it will not swell the rubber, That grease is inside my CV boot for 20 years and my CV boot is still in one piece and it is not swollen.
I use cv boot grease.I replaced my cv boots because it has cracks in my 1998 honda.The boot comes with a pouch of grease that use only half so I put it in a little syringe from a Dollar store and the grease is compatible with rubber boots of all kinds.I have been using it in my brake jobs.$10 per boot bought 2 for left and right.That grease lived inside my cv boot since 1998 and cv boot is made of rubber.What is in that grease?I don't know.Thank you for the video.
I guess I am a bit late with this debate. When it comes to the pins only silicone based products will be effective. If you live in the US, there are several products available. Probably the best is 3M Silicone Paste part number 08946. In the lucky country, here in Australia, apparently is not for sale, not even by 3M Australia. All the parts resellers only provide you with those little satchels for $25 each, not kidding. Of course the rubber bushes for the pins are not for sale on their own, only as part of an expensive kit. Only solution is to find them second hand from a car wrecker as I did. The bizarre thing is that my Toyota Kluger (Highlander in the US) manual says "use high temperature grease" for the pins which is wheel bearing grease which is also quite cheap.
Generally, grease are petroleum based and petroleum softens or swells rubber. To experiment, try to soak a rubber band in a small container of petroleum overnight and you will see that the rubber band will expand (as if cooked) and easily disintegrates. Use silicone grease. Silicone grease is commonly used for lubricating and preserving rubber parts, such as O-rings. Additionally, silicone grease does not swell or soften the rubber. but, since the brake system parts gets to a very high temperature, use only silicone grease products that indicate resists high temperatures or specifically mentions "for brake systems" So, for the guide pins which has rubber boots and 1 of the 2 pins has a rubber bushing at the end part of the pin as well as the caliper pistons which has bushings, do not apply any grease that are petroleum based. I am using 3M silicone paste (dielectric grease) and since Silicone as well as Molybdenum Disulfide can be applied to the surface of molded rubber products, i also use HONDA M77 assembly paste which is Molybdenum Disulfide based grease. I hope this helps.
If i grease the rubber seals from the inside of the calliper cylinder, is it ok? I mean, the silicone based grease wouldn't mix with the brake fluid? Thx
In looking through the service manual forthe Honda Element from several years I saw that even though all the brake parts were identical all the lubricants had been changed to Honda Silicone Grease. I checked around and found that 3M Silicone paste and SilGyde BK4 were readily available alternatives with nearly identical specifications and descriptions of use.
Have you tried CV boot grease that comes when you buy a new CV boot.They will not damage your rubbers in your calipers.And they don't dry out for twenty years as long as it is in a sealed environment.
All Permatex brake greases I ever used swelled the slide pin bushing. CRC black brake grease will dry up and prevent slid pins from moving. Syl-Glide does not swell rubber and lasts two years.
Welcome to my world. I really like learning to do easy maintenance on my car and motorbikes but the manufacturers just make it all so damned hard. What should take a few hours on a Saturday afternoon ends up taking me 3 weeks of research and staring at products in the shop for hours like you just did in this video... wondering what the damned differences are and why one says it's designed for caliper pins but another with the same ingredients says DON'T use it on caliper pins... And the damned car manufacturers are just as bad with their stupid descriptions (lithium soap based glycol grease - wtf???) and INSISTING that you MUST use ONLY their highly expensive products or the wheels will fall off and the battery will melt. But their products aren't always available in some countries or they cost 6 times as much. I wish they could just be clearer. I blame the stupid marketing department wankers. I had put off doing my brakes a while back and now refreshing my memory of everything to get it done soon - I had bought silicone paste for the caliper slide & boot, but I have some of the green Permatex here for the pad/shims bits. The packaging looks *almost* identical, exact same name, same 3 claims on the front, but I noticed mine (bought in 2019) does NOT say anything about rubber like yours does at 12:42. Mine simply says 'Use on caliper pins, sleeves, and pistons.' And under Directions, 2: 'Apply lubricant to pins, slides, and pistons'. But nowhere says anything about rubber anymore. Seems very disingenuous though if the intent is that it is no longer recommended for rubber because when it talks about caliper slides, pins, sleeves, - you get a very confident impression it should be fine on the rubber sleeve / dust cover that the slide pin has to go through to get into the slide pin bush. (If I've gotten my terminology correct). At 5:34 That CRC stuff says silicone harms rubber - again, wtf? chrisfix and many others swear by silicone paste for the caliper slide pins and rubber sleeve/boots. I have a tube of generic CRC silicone grease here which says it's for plastic & rubber. I also have a silicone paste which specifically states metal-to-rubber as one of its applications. It's a nightmare. Thanks for trying to clear some of it up and letting me see I'm not alone in this hell.
I'm in the same boat as you, I like to do a bit of research before I do the job, similar to a pre-task brief. I mentally do the change and then proceed with the task. Looks like sil-glide is the way to go for rubber parts.
Grease is a lubricant, so to call a grease "lubricant" is not wrong. Probably not a good way to distinguish. At a complete guess, it might be that the rubber-safe one at 8:00 can't be used on pistons because of its maximum temperature. I'm not an expert at all and find the whole subject very confusing. Copper grease damages rubber. Some people recommend silicone lubricant for the slide pins, some say it will evaporate and get on the pads when the brakes heat up, some say it's rubber safe, some say it's not. Your thing says Toyota recommends Lithium based lubricant for these parts, but other than that I can only find many forums describing the same problems as I just wrote for silicone. The only thing I can find some relative consistency on is to use "Red Rubber Grease" for the slide pins and copper grease between the pad/shim/piston and possibly on the bolt threads of the slide pins as it's anti-seize. Can't tell whether red rubber grease is OK for inside piston as some say it's not high enough temperature, but it's rare to take pistons out anyway.
I use Silicone based greases on all my rubber parts and never had a problem. I've been using Silcone based for about 20 years now. The Sil-Glyde yellows with age but it's still ok to use.
nice video hopefully inform more people since break system is very important so mineral oil swell the rubber, so avoid mineral based grease or oil to rubber part
Thanks You absolutely correct. I used grease on piston boots to lube it and after whiled piston boots cracked. i am going to use different lube on rubber brake parts and diffrent for pads.
PLEASE LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! I also made this mistake and paid dearly. It's almost impossible to get out the slide pins once the boots heat up with that crc grease. They'll be SERIOUSLY STUCK. Use the pink (Toyota) or white (silicone paste) stuff on metal to rubber contact i.e slide pins and rubber boots and use the crc stuff on metal to metal (or just skip it). 3M and Mission Auto Silicone paste WILL NOT swell up slide pin boots. I have used it on those parts since learning about it from EricTheCarGuy. I even take it a step further I use it on almost any and all metal to rubber contact surface, Orings, Seals(cam, crank, plug ,transmission pans), flashlight threads and Orings, door seals you name it, silicone paste is that good, heat resistant in the caliper situations and good wash out capabilities for pressure washer Orings.
WARNING: Never use Anti Seize or Silicone on Brakes... Yes, you heard me correctly. This was an excellent video MP21 but don't feel bad that you are confused. These big companies jumped on this market because it is extremely profitable... but note that they have no idea what they are doing. The words and terms are wrong, they are sometimes 180 opposed to each other (silicone good vs silicone is bad), plus they keep changing their formulas "because they don't work and people complain" per your review of Permatex. Antiseize is about 70% low-temperature oil (400F), mixed with chalk (filler) and only about 3% to 5% of the actual metal. When the temps get up in the 700F+ range you evaporate that oil and create a sticky glue-like paste. Anti Seize is "NOT" a lubricant, it was created for threads on non-moving parts like nuts and bolts. For brake applications use Pastelub-2400 Boundary Lubricant, it is an extremely high-temperature synthetic lubricant with over 25% solids. On all the moving parts and or rubber assemblies you need to use Ceramlub-2800, not Silicone paste. Silicone was "NEVER" designed for metal applications! The manufacturers themselves (GE & DOW) say that they are only used for preservation of rubber and plastic parts. What you need is, again, a boundary lubricant but one that has sub-micron solids for support of the moving metal parts. Ceramlub is a true synthetic, contains a high concentration of solids and uses extreme temp oils, so it won't break down with high heat and or damage rubber seals or boots on the calipers. The best part is these two "real lubricants" cost less than the "wrong" products everyone is selling at the auto parts and or online. For more information on these Award Winning and OEM Approved brake lubricants just visit... www.CERAMLUB.com and www.PASTELUBE.com Note: Be sure to review the only OE Approved Procedure (Steps) for doing a proper brake service, they are easy and technically correct per manufacturer's specifications like Bendix, Raybestos, Wagner and others. www.StopBrakeNoise.com P.S. (Because you ask at 8:00) The reason you can not use these products to rebuild the caliper's piston seals is they will react with brake fluid and cause a thick paste to form. This sticky gluey substance will travel around the system and can clog the dump valves and orifices in the ABS Pump and Proportioning Valves, etc
I like your explanation , Can you explain why my 1998 Honda accord CV boot is not swelling for more than 20 years.I guess they developed a bond not to harm each other.That is what I use for my slider pin and the never dry.It protects the slider pins boot like the CV boot,Hope you get my point.
Great video! Thank you!! I think I f...ed up my brake job. I put on one side the blue sachet grease on caliper sliding pins and on the other caliper I've used sil-glyde from Napa. We will see how this will be after some time.
It's just a thought how we'll did you clean out the hole of the old slider pin If what had been previously used was still in there it does not have to be much & the rubber will swell again
I wonder if you guys ever tried soaking rubber bands in petroleum product such as turpentine? When we were young we used to so and a few days later, the rubber bands swell up and tear easily. So, don’t use petroleum based grease on rubber seals
The manufactures website for Sil Glyde shows two different lines of products under that name. One with SG model numbers, one with BK. 4 oz packages of the two products have distinctly different descriptions and label information. They also sell a product specially for ceramic brake pad, soring and abutment pad lubrication, Cerami Glyde CG-4.
THE KEY FOR RUBBER The key for when NOT to use something with rubber is if it states Contains Petroleum Distilates. Petroleum based stuff will damage rubber in the long term. Red Grease for rubber is the key to remember, and will likely say this on the tube, sachet or tin. I serviced the callipers on my Honda Legend, fitting new seals and pistons. Brake Fluid served to lubricate the new seals for the pistons. Whilst it can be a bit of a faff, it is a good idea to check brake calliper and pad operation twice a year. Quite a good idea to do this in the fine weather, such as late Summer or early Autumn, as this means no having to mess with the brakes in the winter.....something which is always a pain. I tend to still use Copper Ease / Grease on the backs of the pads and on the shims...and on the outer face of the disc, (rotor), (the part often referred to as the 'top hat'), which is where the wheel face makes contact. Although other Anti-Seize Lubricants will likely do the same job. A fairly substantial tin of Copper Ease / Grease will cost about £3,or $5 and last you a lifetime. The key with brakes is that they are functioning in a hostile environment where they get wet then dry, and hot then cold...all the time. I tend to focus on applying lubrication where it will function in two ways. Firstly, to assist the operation of the component, and second, to assist me when I have to dismantle something. So making stuff easy to get off really matters. One thing I would add, concerns the Brake Calliper Fixing Bolts, which we often tend to re-use these because they generally look to be OK when we change a set of pads or discs (rotors). I would recommend changing these for new ones EVERY TIME, as they tend to become really tight and hard to loosen....and they round so easily that in the end you can spend an inordinate amount of time trying to get them off. Best get rid of them when they start to 'round' in any way. They don't come cheap, at about £28 or $35 for four, but if you consider the cost of a new set once a year, at least, you will be spending £50-£60 or $80 for eight of them. Good value if it means they come loose easily. I would recommend some Copper Ease / Grease on the threads of these and under the flange, and I have also resorted to applying some multi purpose grease or silicone at the flange edge and the bottom end of the threaded part where it protrudes slightly once they are tightened. One more thing, I would caution against over torqueing these bolts. Despite what the manual says, Finger tight - then Spanner Tight - then Just a Fraction more will be enough. From experience I have never found these to work loose or fall out...and you would have ample warning, (as a slight rattle), if one were to ever work loose. I would suggest the old adage of tight then just a little bit more is often enough. Just a couple of helpful observations.... James Hennighan Yorkshire, England P.S. If stuff does get tight then ATF fluid 'wicked' as close as possible to the thread tends to work fine. I have also found that Brake Cleaner Fluid can work too, as it 'wicks-in' pretty well. Diesel and especially Paraffin work well in 'wicking-in' to any seized thread.....and they are cheap enough. A gallon will last for ages, with enough left over for any other planned pyrotechnical / flammable adventures. From experience using WD40, (which is a water dispersant), can be a pretty wasteful exercise when it come to freeing rusted parts....and you will vent more to atmosphere than you apply to the seized thread. No real substitute for heat on metal to expand it if it is seized.....but the precise application of the flame, (fine and high temp required), can be difficult at times without setting fire to other stuff. Just be careful..!
I was a victim too... it is confusing and it seems different autos can handle the 'grease' better. Really ran into trouble using that green stuff on my GM brakes.. same thing...swelling.
For my Honda's brakes, I've converged on SuperLube Silicone Brake Grease for the caliper slides, and Honda M77 for all other metal/metal contact points. BTW Sil-Glide is castor oil based, checkout the msds.
How is the combo holding up? Been about 5 yrs since you made the comment. Working on a Honda caliber rebuild and the slide pin lubricant seems to be a very contested topic.
@@carlloftin2850 one more detail - Honda's service manual recommends M77 for brake pad metal/metal contacts and 3M silicone paste for the caliper pins. The confusion you find online about caliper pin grease relates to compatibility with the rubber components. As long as the grease is silicone based then it should be compatible. May of the brake greases availabel at common retailers are not silicone based, hence people run into problems with some rubber components degrading. It's hit or miss, depending on the rubber type. M77 happens to be silicone baesd as well, but is a silicone oil with molydenum disuphide mixed in. I also found the online commentary very confusing at first. Honda's service manual info was the thing that resolved the confusion for me.
That grease you used didnt cause those pins to stick. Try cleaning them up with a wire brush. Also, after my calipers get to about 9 years old i get new calipers and braket and pins. All as 1 new caliper from Rock Auto.
I understand this review of brake greases is quite old - however, for the Caliper Pins / Rubber / etc; if you get some 3M Silicone Paste (expensive I know) you will have a lifetime of brake changing. Best stuff on the market for every application. Standard brake lube/grease can be used for all the other pieces.
Curious, Did you thoroughly clean the caliper and slide pins prior to using the green stuff? I see the grease/lube as a non-issue in your particular case. I think the fresh lube after the car had sat and dried out as trying to push the contaminants through a machined orifice. The idea that the green failed is highly unlikely even where temps are exceeded. While ridiculous in most cases, the lube usually calls specially to thoroughly clean all moving parts, which would require a complete dismantle. Most only slide the boots and add some lube. If the car was driven daily the lubes would just mix, but in a case where the old lube has dried you get the crumbling situation that can cause sticking and other issues.
I use Red Rubber it is a mineral oil base seal grease works well for rebuilding breaks and break fluid will not gum up or damage parts Pins I use hi temp axle grease and same on the pad ends . Been doing it this way on all my Trucks Bikes and cars .
Your survey on high temp disk brake grease was kind of confusing. I did not see that you considered Permatex #24125, "Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant". I just bought a can of this products and do not see any cautions about it being bad for rubber parts.Did you ever do a follow up video showing the results of your test?
Permetex changed their formula and color. Our shop used the purple ceramic extreme and found swelling of the rubber pin dampers. The new silicone ceramic extreme is red / orange and works with rubber parts.
I haven't found anything that is consistently the right answer. The videos misses some of the point where swelling rubber is not the only reason why it might not work on the piston seals, it could also be incompatible with the brake fluid. Sil Glide used to be my go-to for all of this but I've found that it fails quickly on slide pins in hondas and toyotas (I know, but I've never seen it fail on a GM or Ford but it's baked or washed away on the imports in 6 months). The red stuff in the packet is most likely Castrol "red rubber grease" which is sold with the recommendation of using it for rebuilding calipers, but the companies that sell unobtainium caliper rebuild greases state "don't use 'rubber greases' to rebuild calipers, they will fail."
Why can't you use brake fluid to lube it?I wouldn't want to use a grease or lube on the piston seals.Brake fluid doesn't mix with most stuff.I'm sure they have some type of brake fluid compatible lube that mixes with dot 3 or 4.
A RU-vid used dielectric grease on pins, I looked it up and it's silicone based. I am doing my breaks and am confused. The repair shops like this confusion cause it gives them easy work. A break job on my toyota camry is 1300 dollars. I bought all the parts 4 rotors and pads for 200 dollars What a huge savings.
@7:50 "they don't want you putting it on the piston either for two reasons..." neither reason is correct. They're saying you shouldn't put it on the outside of the piston, inside the caliper, or on the caliper seal BECAUSE IT WOULD CONTAMINATE THE BRAKING SYSTEM. It would get mixed into the brake fluid.
Plain and simple....Use Sil-Glyde on anything that will contact with rubber. The "SIL" standards for SILicone. Silicone with not destroy rubber or make it swell.
@@efrensaclolo7021 - CV grease is petroleum based and will swell the piston seal and lock it up. The best grease (only grease) that's really appropriate to use is a lithium soap based grease. Toyota has their own grease called Rubber Grease specifically made for piston seals (08887-01206). Mitsubishi has their own that's rebranded Nippon Niglube RM (MZ101616EX). VW/Audi has their own which made by Febi (31942 or G-052-150-A2).
@@cup_and_cone Can you explain why my 1998 Honda accord with original CV boot is not swelling and still holding the grease inside the boot that is made of rubber.Use it for the slider pin and hardware that has boot on it and you will say I am right.Try it on a slider pin the next time you do brake job.That will be the last time you will lube the pin.
@@efrensaclolo7021 - It is swelling, you just cannot tell the CV boot is swelled with the naked eye. Square piston seals are under compression when the piston is inserted, and just a couple thousandths of swelling is all it takes to prevent piston retraction. I was discussing piston seals and you started mentioning slider pins. A CV boot is crimped at one or both ends, and is under rotation which disperses water before it can ingress (something slider pin boots cannot, and water ingress into the slider pins is what damages them). Boots are made different by different manufacturers and not created equal, so YMMV. Piston seals on the other hand, the tolerances are identical by because everyone follows industry standards set forth for hydraulics...
the pink grease you are talking about is called red rubber grease the best one i used is made by castrol you can find it on ebay this is the only grease that will work on brake caliper seal all other products will fail
tom triolo exactly. toyota doesnt make greases, pastes, oil. they'll just repsckage it so you think they do. same as brake calipers and pads. toyota just rebox them and brand them to sell ot at a super high mark up
The Permatex product clearly says it contains petroleum distillates - THESE ARE NO GOOD FOR RUBBER OR PLASTIC. Sil-Glyde on the other hand does not contain petroleum distillates and is safe on plastic and rubber. The only product I know which is marketed for all brake parts is Bendix Ceramasil Brake Parts Lube. I did come across one RU-vid video where someone said do not use Bendix Ceramasil Brake Parts Lube for brake slides. I don''t quite believe that video because the Bendix site says "it can be used on seals of Disc Brake caliper assemblies, all moving caliper hardware, rubber components, backing plates, shims and Brake Shoe assemblies. It meets the Japanese rubber compatibility standard JIS K 2228 with EPDM & Nitrile rubbers". I think I will be using the Bendix product as a one stop shop for brakes. BUT, as Thomas Hendricks states below, you must not cross mix lubricants. That means all old lubricant must be removed before applying new lube, unless you did the previous brake job and used the same product as you are using again. I think that is why Ceramasil is a vivid Blue colour to stop mixing with other lube. I'm not sure if it stay blue over several years. Sil-Glyde does go a dark brown colour eventually even in the tube.
Use NIGLUBE RM for pins and rubber boots. For piston boots use Toyota red rubber grease. Silicon will swell your slider pins boots and is a poor lubricant and your pins will get jammed and lead to premature wear of your rotors and pads and damage caliper piston, I have experienced this first hand. For your shims use Crc synthetic grease. There is so much mis information on the internet and silicone is being recommeded for the slider is wrong
SILICONE ON RUBBER Silicone Spray is ideal for the rubbers that the side windows slide against. Keeps them supple and aids movement of the glass up and down. Won't freeze or crack. A quick spray and wipe off of any excess once or twice a year is fine. Five minutes work for the whole car. James Hennighan Yorkshire, England
Use it for the slide pins/bolts. Anything silicone is perfect for those, do NOT use grease, synthetic, etc. It has silicone from the factory, and mixing silicone with a grease is asking for trouble. Some greases are marketed for being safe for rubber and good to use for pins, but you have to completely clean out the silicone first. I prefer to just use silicone so I don't have to worry about it, and don't have to worry about whether my grease will destroy the rubber. Use your favorite high temp anti-seize for all the other brake lubing to make it easy to take apart next time and prevent corrosion. Grease is fine for that too, but it won't help prevent binding and corrosion as much.
The green permetex is not intended for the slide pin area because of the temperature it was designed to work with. you need to use either the red or purple brake lubricant. Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant(Purple) Part Numbers: 09973(4 gram packet) 20354(5 ounce tube) or 24125(8 ounce bottle with brush built into bottle cap) Permatex Silicone Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (RED) Part Numbers 24129 (0.5 ounce) or 80653(8 ounce bottle)
I can't believe Permatex sells that "Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube" and recommends it be used on rubber parts, and even states "Will not attack rubber", when it states on the back of the packaging that it contains petroleum distillates. Might as well use Vaseline. Vaseline is much cheaper, and is also made from petroleum distillates, and like all petroleum distillates, it is not compatible with rubber and wiill make it swell.
Marine grease is Lithium grease. You can get lighter viscosity version at an appliance parts store. It is used for lubing bearings for cloths dryer drums. Most lithium grease is white, sometimes an aqua green. Mfgs. can easily die it since it's normally white. Hence the pink color you have. It is excellent for slide pins as it has superior water washout and corrosion resistance. The Slyglyde is good for slide pins, rubber parts, metal to metal places on pads and caliper piston O-rings. The Permatex product is likely not compatible with brake fluid but I wouldn't think it would harm rubber. No explanation for that one. I would just use the Slyglyde. Do not co-mingle lube products on the same surfaces. When you clean the slide pins, don't forget to clean the corresponding holes in the Caliper bracket they go in, it's going to be just as bad as the pins.
@@x-man5056 Why do you say not, you haven't seen my rubber. I even bought two brand-new caliper pins and added the same shit, and the pin is stuck again. I cleaned and add the stupid grease again, but I bought a new grease and in February I will clean again and add the new one when I do my next Oil change. --- AGS SIL-Glyde 4 oz Tube Silicone Based Brake Assembly Lubricant for Eliminating Disc Brake Squeal - Moisture Proof, Heat Resistant, Rust and Corrosion Protector. This is what I had and bought on Amazon. ---- Unfortunately, I follow your advice from your video, sorry to tell you that. A long time ago right? I'm sorry but is damaging the rubber.
@@irisbaez1972 I don't need to see them, I have used Slyglyde for many years. It does NOT have any adverse effect rubber parts. Not MY video either. Slyglide does not deteriorate rubber. What solvent are you using to clean with? Those slide pins can be really problematic sometimes. I have gone as far as change the caliper and once even the mount bracket. If it's sticking on the pins, if you can see wear or damage on the pins, check with strait edge to make sure not bent., if any issues, change the pins to NEW only. Brake rubber parts are Neoprene Rubber, synthetic. Slyglide or other silicone grease won't harm it. There is an answer for you, something caused what you are seeing, but not the Slyglide.
@@x-man5056 You know what: You taught me what grease to use. I used your video. I start doing maintenance on my cars with you. it was the first time I open the brakes to see, learn, clean, re-grease, etc, etc,. I started with your video, so the only grease I have used is that. First time I said: maybe I cleaned it wrong, not enough grease, too much grease, etc, etc,., Well, keep going, learning, practice, until I decided to buy two brand new. Then again the same problem. I hope doesn't stock there cause I will check the next oil change in 5 K miles or February, then I will add a different grease I bought on Amazon. --- MISSION AUTOMOTIVE: SILICON PASTE, waterproof dielectric grease. People say is really good. I'm going to try that one.
Caliper pistons need to be lubricated with a marual compatible with brake fluid. Silicone lube on a piston seal caused the brakee fluid to become gummy around the seals. Same thing happens if you mix silicone grease with non-silicone grease. Another factor is the temperature range for which a lube is designed. #1 Rule for lubricants is dont mix differnt types, even if they have the same ratings. Honda goes so far as to say if different BRANDS are mixed with Honda lubricating fluids, the system should be rthorougjly cleaned anDd then filled with Honda fluid.
want to ask which one that use to luricate the air master cylinders repair kit for truck which usually already have if we buy that kit usually that color like yellow gold transparan colour.. and also which lubricate that use to rubber brake cylinder, thanks a lot. sample lubricate or kit air master like the link below : images.app.goo.gl/dUzMs23Uzmac7txB8
That pink colored grease is Toyota Rubber Grease. Comes in a tube. The pink grease is compatible with internal caliper parts such as the piston seal. I don't think it is suitable for caliper pin grease as it is not heat resistant. For that application I use Sil-Glyde. Any colored Permatex brake grease goop will swell rubber. Avoid at all cost.
Wow, how did they ever rebuild brake calipers before that product came to market? Oh, that's right, BRAKE FLUID. Not a rookie mistake, it has been being used since the invention of disc brakes. Nice product plug though.
Brake fluid is just that, a hydraulic fluid not an assembly fluid, its nasty to handle and was not formulated for that purpose. Its almost impossible to install a phenolic piston past the pressure seal with brake fluid, it does not belong on dust boots either.
@@metalhalide4043 oh, ok, I guess I haven't rebuilt a caliper before then. The hardest part is seating the dust boot. My point is that mechanics have been rebuilding calipers LONG before the assembly line you plugged was ever invented. I'll trust service manuals and tradesmen with years of experience before I'll trust RU-vid experts.
Use whatever works for you, but assembly fluid/grease is the correct way of doing a caliper rebuild and will not cause the piston to bind as with a dry install (brake fluid) or cause premature pressure seal failure. Correct Rebuild: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9kmaWATUM_c.html
Not all “rubber “ chemistry are the same,” lithium soap “ is only a carrier, so not all lithium greases are the same,silicon oring is NOT compatible with silicone based lubricant ,silicone will migrate (leach out) and leaves carriers(thickeners) i.e dried out over times .
I also had the same problems. Used CRC Brake Caliper Grease for the caliper glide pins on a Toyota. The brake caliper pins stuck because the CRC Brake Caliper grease dried out and turned into sludge, and the rubber o ring on the caliper pin swelled. It was difficult to pull the pins out! Also, the rubber caliper pin boots swelled. I had replaced those rubber parts with new, and then had to replace those new rubber parts again because of the misinformation supplied by CRC!! The CRC label, and Permatex labels for brake grease claims its safe for rubber! I'm calling B.S. on that!!! They are only interested in selling grease, and do not care about the customer!!! Only silicone based grease is safe for rubber.
In the 1980's they told us to use antisieze compound on those pins, then later on they said we had to use Synthetic Moly lube! Now they tell use we gotta use Ceramic purple grease! They keep blowing smoke up our asses! I use Mobil 1 red grease on my pins and almost eveything else! Zero problems!
I use that same CRC lubricant and it caused my bottom pins to seize. After I pulled out the pins the rubber was swollen. I had hard time pushing the pins back to the caliper! CRC Synthetic grease (black in color) is not safe for rubber on the long run.
