This is amazing dude holy cow! I have yet to decide whether to mod my trinitron or not yet BUT I will say this wiping your screen down with a good screen cleaner and spraying electrical contact cleaner on the av jacks and cable actually made a noticeable improvement on my display lol. Try those simple things first. Also adjust your screen contrast and brightness helps with av artifacts. This is probably obvious to some but maybe be helpful to people getting back into crt 😊
You did an absolutely beautiful job, well done. And this is the first Pocket Color mod I've seen that preserves the IR port, that's so awesome. May I ask, is there a reason you started with the CPU? Was it just to get the most tedious component out of the way? I would think the logical course would be to tackle all the small components being soldered with the hot air first, then tackle the iron-soldered components afterward, but my logic may be flawed.
Thank you and as far as doing the cpu first I was worried about knocking smaller things off while trying to get it on and touching up the bridges and such so I did it first
i'm currently preparing to do an s video mod and this video and your previous one have been super helpful! there's a lot of info available on rgb mods but comparatively so little on projects like s-video mods. i really appreciate the extensive documentation of your progress and the problems that you encountered along the way. all around great stuff and super helpful! keep it up!
I don’t think it’s like conventionally possible since the cart slot is soldered to the motherboard you would need to somehow move it further in the case and while you could remove the ds card slot to get more space but then it would be a straight macro mod and you would not be able to play ds games anymore. Plus you would have to some how hold the slot in place and also connect it back to the motherboard pins remotely. It’s possible but at what cost.
I don’t think links work In the RU-vid comments section but I guess you could copy paste this Desktop CRT Revisited ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8vD3xMmhC_Q.html I’ll try to add it to the end card too
@@Chibichief thnx pal found it :D this mod is so kool and its not as complex as RGB i got a question u think a VCR tvcombo could dothis or vcr combo tv was to older and it can noy be done on that ???
it might be my favorite set that i have. my little one that i added s/video to is also up there the two basically are the only sets i really use right now.
Got there in the end and learned a lot. There might be a way to do it with a switch but this is fine. Surprised the sync circuit doesn’t already have 75 ohm termination from factory. Should measure resistance from the point you input luma to ground.
It is open but it’s not like any of the other openings that are populated would prevent either of those things gameboys were never water/dust resistant.
@Chibichief thanks for the clarification! I'm planning on doing Natalie the nerd method POCO, and it has the same with contrast wheel open, but I have a solution to cover it up.
hi for anybody wanting to do this mod beware in the video he says its compatible with a digitizer he is worng it does not fit i wish he tested it so he knew instead of assuming because i bought a shell just because i thought the digitzer would fit and spend 2 hours trimming it so i want everybody to not suffer through that like me do not buy if you want to use the digitizer
@@Chibichief it’s ok I’m less upset now I was really upset when I made that but even when you trim the shell the digitizer won’t fit because it’s to thick
Huh I guess I need to find a decent touch screen that’s one more thing I can add on to tv out and maybe figure out a nice shell for it that fits the digitizer
Trim. Check fit. Repeat. It took a while I was using a razor blade scraping off a little at a time. Since it was a translucent shell I lined it up with the screen on the inside as best I could and then traced near where the Final Cut would be and started from there.
HOWDY! PLEASE TELL ME WHAT YOUR WOODEN TV IS CALLED! I HAD ONE AS A KID BUT MY MOM GOT RID OF IT IN FAVOUR OF MORE MODERN TVS AND I HAVEN’T SEEN ONE LIKE IT SINCE. I BELIEVE THIS IS THE SAME ONE!
Imagine a wireless top screen, you can have the top screen on a table and the bottom screen in your hands. Like that you can play select which screen you want to be, and if you have to, like you can play by alternate between bottom and top screen with the bottom screen only !
Unfortunately the creator of the board does not have any more but the link in the description goes to their GitHub project and you could get the files for the pcb and have a service make it for you then you would buy the components and solder them on your self
Shitttt seems like a pain! I’m going to check it out regardless such a niche/cool little addition to the micro. Wish that this faceplate allowed for the touch screen to stay tho :/
Man i wish i could mod one of my crt's. I just picked up a very cheap toshiba that i thought for sure would have at least s-video, but nope! Showed up to get it, and it only has composite. Supposedly, it has internal rgb for the dvd/vhs combo (and it certainly looks the part while in dvd mode). But oh well it's still nice I'm still on the lookout for a good rgb set.
Muy buen trabajo de este joven no solo realizó la salida rgb también realizó ajuste de colores la mayoría de los técnicos ya no realizan esos trabajos de la vieja escuela en televisiónes CRT saludos desde México 🧐👌
I don’t think so but I’m not an expert. I think it is using circuits that are on the top screen connector so it’s not really a software thing more of a “when this pin is 0v perform switch” but there are other buttons/switches that don’t mount on the rear of the board if you don’t have the space back there
The choke or inductor as it is called, has no polarity and can be installed both ways, the only time you need to think about directions is when mounting them in series on anything else just smack them in the way you want, its like a resistor.
holy shit!!!! i had the same issues with 1080 ! So glad I saw this video!!! what a terrible product for updating firmware. I bought 3 of them in the pre-order and after installing the first one I decided to sell the others. My ultrahdmi mod worked perfect with no issues after install.
I'd rather people start making the DMGcolor more popular and easier to build. To me the pocket and the color are both the same console just one is color. They're both too small to be comfortable in my hands playing. The DMG is a better size.
I still have a few unpopulated boards but you can get them from n64 freak they have contact info in the read me on the GitHub linked in the discription
@@Chibichief I mod my gba with screen and all it was a drop in screen no soldering I’m trying to find stuff for the old game boy and if they are there’s like 100 bucks
Depends on which “old” gameboy your talking about there are three common versions the original gameboy the gameboy pocket and the gameboy color all three have drop-in screen kits available from multiple retail sites but I normally buy my gameboy kits from funnyplaying but it’s been a few years not sure who has the best quality ones now just looked up seems like fp doesn’t have a drop in kit for gbc but I found this one retrogamerepairshop.com/products/game-boy-color-drop-in-2-45-ips-kit-with-osd
@@Chibichief I’m talking about the first one. He says the first one has a glue screen together. It’s hard to take out the screen so I need to buy the shell. I already did it with the GBa no need to do it for the old one.
It’s really easy to get the original screen out especially on the original dmg but if you want a new shell too funnyplaying has precut shells and screen kits for the dmg(the first one)
It was dead before I did the mod couldent read discs but I did do an update to this in another video where I discovered issues with my initial mod causing problems with composite and rf input
Keep the channel going dude.definately make a video about your thoughts and im your experience, about getting a "new crt". Lets say its wonky,out of square, warbly sides, odd color etc. and the steps you take,where you start and why you move/touch/tweak what you do and in what order for what reason. We all have our own ways, and interesting to me to see the difference in where people start and their thinking, as theres plemty of diy techs who dont have a clear textbook background and a lost for protcols. So it seems many people have a different way explainimg what certain things do, or at least how they convey it. But you seem well spoken, and id be interested in your take. Some folks start in the service memu, others open it up and go straight for the rings, and others are tuning the pots on the neck amd boards while using the service menu. Ive just got 3 crts in the past few weeks, all have issues that i cant correct past a certain point.one is just an old tube i believe, an it doesnt help that the guy that gave it away on fb,helped me move it and drove the dolley off a step at am angle and the 220 lb, 32' kv wega fell righ on its face on concrete.Ive seen ppl who have big sets (32,36,40) anf say theyll never be perfevt yet theyll pull up the grid and im like damn,no thats pretty mich perfect. Meanwhile i was strugglin to straighten out a 19'. I tried comvergance strips(also be curious to hear your take) as i "made" some using both magnets and razor blades, yet i took one out of another set(a favtory comverganve strip) and it honestly doesnt seem to be a magnet on the end at all, it seems to be rubber,which in my mind makes sense as itd block magnetism from the yoke,so i dunno what you know, but it seemed to me that magnets didnt really do anything. The razer blades had some effect,but the corners on this one tv are just wayyyy too out for it to even brimg it closer back to optimal.the convergence is so off, you can see every color seperately, smeary blurring reds centimeges away from where it should be.and i just got the same model as in this video, and its a little wavy(again i suspect a tired tube).i havent gone inside yet. But its got thinking that after 3 crts with issues, it may just be worth it to spend hundreds and hundreds on a tv that i know was cleaned up,possibly recapped and reflowed im certain ares, modded potentially and calibrated to a great spot. A video called "crts- what i know(aquiring,tinkering,calibrating,adjusting)" would be pretty cool. Alot of videos seem more so aimed at other folks with probably the same knowledge or more experience
Wow thanks for the huge reply. I definitely want to cover settings and convergence. The video I’m working on now is kinda what you described but for game consoles. It’s been a while but I’m still making videos. Thanks again for watching.
Hey man great vid, I think I got it almost figured out on my own tv but just so I’m clear, do you recommend running the 75ohm resistors straight from the chroma and luma pins to the ground pins on the s video connector instead of grounding to the dvd chassis?
On mine the dvd has a ribbon cable that drops to the mainboard, there are spots right beside that ribbon connector just like yours where the exposed wire sits on top of the board, I was going to tap into those. Also two more questions, did you ground your rca and s video lines to the same spot or do they need to be separate, and did you have the issue where it won’t work without a dvd in the tray?
Might have to do trial and error to see if you need the switch or not since you were able to find a point closer to the dvd “input”. I do not have any issues with the dvd input timing out but I have seen others that did. And for the audio rca you can use the same chassis ground as the video whatever is easiest to get to but I did have a separate wire for audio ground and video ground I don’t know if that makes a difference
I'm using the 2.0.2 firmware version, i still get compatibility issues with my sony, my wife's sansung flat screen seems to work that best, has both audio and visual. My sony only has video.
