Thank you for the video, but I do have one question. What happens if the person that you lock focus on moves, do you have to re-focus before taking the shot? Thanks, Bob
@@Bob71650 i think that depends on the type of focus. If you’re tracking then probably not. If they’re moving side to side a little, then again, probably not. But if you’re using regular AF and they’re moving towards you then yes, you’ll probably have to refocus.
It actually saves not only thumbnail to preview, but whole full size JPEG inside a RAW file. Image viewers on a computer can show it and you also can extract this JPEG using some image viewers or with EXIF tools.
i have the gr3 and love it. I love positive film effect but i'm having trouble getting the same color profiles in my other cameras. I just got a olympus em-1 mk1 and this helps me get close with a custom profile. but i'm still playing with the colors to get the reds just right between them. The skin tons out of the gr3 are just perfect with good lighting.
You didn't really clarify the upsides to setting the shutter-speed to a minimum of 1/10 instead of the stock 1/40. Would you mind explaining that? Amazing series tho, you helped me tons!
The current GR a cameras have great IBIS, so going to a lower shutter speed helps in poorer light conditions. But it’s an individual choice, based on your own confidence when shooting hand held. But, you also have to consider motion blur. If that’s an issue, then but up the shutter speed, open up the aperture and let the camera raise the ISO.
Pretty new to shooting but I don't understand why setting it to 6.3 in the first place? Why not go for the lowest setting even in daylight environments? I only see upsides with going as low as possible (if you are in for the depth of field obviously) - what am I missing?
Thank you so much for these videos. First thing I'm gonna do is reset the camera and start all over. Watched a lot of videos but everyone has their own preferences but at least yours are clear.
@@photostuff I have an A7RII and both lenses. The Sony Sonnar T FE 35mm f/2.8 ZA is a noticeably smaller and lighter lens. It is much closer to your idea of recreating the Sony RX1R ii.
I also still use my A7R2, fyi , best accessory I ever bought for it is the small grip extension, GP-X1EM, could not believe the difference it made in comfort , I highly recommend it.
If only Sony made a gripless A7 series camera like the fantastic RX1 was or Leica Q or S9 are, or at least a camera with tiny, almost no grip like the Nikon Zf or Fujifilm X-T50! I am absolutely a Sony fan, but I was forced to buy into L mount to get a gripless camera with S9. I hate the left swingout screen, but otherwise it is brilliant hoy to use camera with the small Sigma i series prime lenses.
How interesting, my Siny R1/Leica Q replacement camera is the Panasonic S9 with Sigma 45mm f2.8 fantastic combo. No grip was important to me since RX1 had no grips either. I sacrificed high resolution since the original RX1 was 24M, too. I am a Sony fan, but I couldn't resist the temptation of the awesome sleek minimalist design of S9.
Interesting video, thank you. I had the RX1R and tried the same combo as you with the Sony 40mm. I didn’t like the shutter sound on the A7 though. I now have the RX1Rmkii. Nothing quite like it , even the A7c line is not quite the same vibe.
Agreed. The RX1 series uses a stealthy leaf shutter, like the Ricoh GR. Nice and quiet. But the A7r does have silent mode using an electronic shutter only, which can also be useful.
I was looking for a more modern replacement of the Sony RX1R I had many years ago. And some weatherproofing was desired. Trip to New Zealand with RX1 and I was always hiding it away. I was considering the compact Sony line but was disappointed with pixel count and the higher pixel count was a bit pricey for my needs. Thanks for posting this as I think you found a good value.
Thank you for this. For the first time in my photography Life, I wanted a specific lens instead of a specific camera first. I fell in love with the Sony G 40mm 2.5, and now you have given me the possible camera that gives the rendering I’m looking for!
@@photostuff interesting- I’m considering the iii but it’s about $600 higher here in the states. Are you sure the 40mm 2.5 will resolve well with the 43 megapixel sensor?
Or again if you’re in a situation where you can’t spend time composing the shot, but you wanna play with DOF, you could stay in P mode and use snap distance priority. Just lots of options with this little guy!
I’ve been trying to play with snap distance priority and it makes weird decisions, at least for the way I shoot. But I’m wondering if in a situation where you can’t see the screen very well so you use the viewfinder, if you can use this mode and let it do its thing and still get the shot. But obviously you need to know the distance you’re aiming for.
good day, everytime im on shutterspeed priority and I adjust the shutter speed, my aperture stays at 2.8 no matter what, but iso changes just fine, any way I can make aperture adjusted by the camera?
Thanks for these videos! One area I can imagine P mode being very handy is if you're in lighting conditions where you can't see the screen, and/or are using a viewfinder. You can't really see the settings or anything, and you can basically get your intended shot.
Hey, thanks for answering, I'm a bit late to see that, sorry! What I meant is what you see on the srcreen BEFORE pressing the shutter;-) When your camera is on purpose set for low light or high key, the screen just shows the 'normal' brightness., which is confusing bc you can't tell whether you have put in the right settings for what you are going to do... The outcome will not match the screen... Mayby because i'm using set f en shutterspeed, but auto-ISO (limited) Only in full auto mode you see the intended brightness. I'd appreciate your view on this! Maybe it's normal behaviour with the camera, just to show you what it thinks must be the right settings;-) And yes! Since yesterday we (the Dutch) won the match with Romenia with 3-0, and prepare for the next matches, yey!!!
Hi Tina, I can’t seem to replicate the problem. I’m shooting Av and multi-metering and sometimes spot metering. My screen brightness is at the middle, base setting. If I point my GR3 into the living room or out the window to the sunshine, my screen is the same in live view and in playback mode, when looking at the same scene. In other words, I’m getting a pretty accurate version in live view compared to what the camera is saving. Sorry I can’t be more helpful. Good luck in the next game!
Thanks for your videos! Very helpful. One question. I shoot in M and Av. In M I want the back function button for Face/Eye, in Av I want to use the same Fn-button for AE. I want to keep these settings fixed. How can I do this?
Thanks, this helps me out a lot. Seems a bit strange to me that there is no factory reset option, but every camera has its quirks. I'll be working my way through the rest of your series.
Sorry, in my former message I was confused about the meaning of 'auto gain', because I realise that's a term primarely used for audiosettings and microphones... What I meant to say is I would like to see the lcd-screen reflecting the real image from the chosen settings - before using the shutter, not afterwards by chimping... Any ideas?
Hi Tina, I've tried to take a shot of something, then playback the shot and compare the live view image to the same scene that I've just taken, and I can't really see a difference. However, I have a half-second preview switched on and when the image is displayed right after shooting, it does seem to look a fraction darker just before the preview ends. I don't know why 🤔
Big compliment to you, these series has made my live with the Ricoh GRIIIx so much more fun! But I encounter one big problem: the autogain of the LCD-display. That is tricky, because of the (any) brightness of the screen you don't notice shooting with the wrong settings until it's too late. Chimping for at least 0,5 sec. can be the work around, but that's a hassle. I can't find a method to set it up in such a way that the screen shows the real settings by closing down the auto gain. Have you got any advice?
I have nikon d610 full frame camera with tamron 24-70mm f2.8. Unfortunately so often I have situations when I need a bigger zoom. Now considering to sale my nikon and buy that sony and I would really appreciate it if sony mk4 owners would tell about quality of the picture? And also about camera . Do you still like it ? Many many thx . Kind regards M
I love RX10m4. It has a great lens. The Nikon image quality is probably better, because of the bigger sensor, but you would need find an 18-400mm for it. A 1” sensor will not be great in bad light, but in daylight, it’s fantastic. Here’s a link to a more recent video I made about the rx10m4 Skip to 6:00 minutes in if you want to get straight to the images ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9x9of2OdNIw.htmlsi=jrfADxTA2Pw0N8Kh
So to be clear when you make the changes to the recipe they are exclusive to the preset but when you make the other changes like Highlight correction, noise reduction, WB etc. those are all Global changes that effect all shooting styles. Is that correct?
I set up mine to be in Av + snap, but with back button focus on fn. This setup allows me to blast randomly with a deep DoF and then focus on a single thing with f2.8 using a single button!
Hi, what's the 'filtering factor' of the Hoya infrared filter? How many stops does it correspond to? I'd like to use it on a film camera, but I can't find the information anywhere... Could you help me? Thank you very much.
It’s not like an ND filter that reduces intensity, it actually removes light in the visible spectrum. I don’t think it would work with regular film, but you can get infrared sensitive film. You’ll have to do a little reading on the subject. I’ve never tried it 🤷
...I'm a beginner to both analogue and digital photography... You're right: it doesn't work with normal film... you need an infrared film used with an infrared filter in addition... thanks to your indication I found various information material on the web about it. Could you do a tutorial on using the infrared filter on the Ricoh please? I would like to know the workflow... The settings to use...
I just ordered the RX10IV, it arrives tomorrow. I originally intended to buy used, but to find one in the condition I wanted it would be about $1200, so I went a head and pulled the trigger on a new one. I figured out that a bridge camera was right for me when I purchased the Fuji X-S1 about 11 years ago, but it's past time to upgrade.
The HDF version replaces the ND filter. I read an official statement in the HDF manual supplement. www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/man-pdf/gr-3-hdf_9l.pdf
Hi, the filters are never applied to RAW files, but inside a RAW file, there is an embedded thumbnail that includes the filter you are using. If you want a look closest to the raw file, just shoot with the Standard profile.
Hello. I do wonder what Ricoh camera is GR 102. I've been looking in internet and it seems that nobody but you knows this model. Please, can you give us (me) more details ? Thank you.
It’s a series of videos about the GR3 and GR3x. In English, when learning a new subject, courses are often named things like Computer Science 101 and then the next, more advanced level would be Computer Science 102. :)
I also have the Nisi master kit which I love except for the polariser which I agree is useless, I ended up buying a 49mm Circular polariser filter which is a million times better
Being unable to understand all the functions of a modern camera by reading its manual, you are a great help! Thank you for taking the time to produce these essential videos; you are a great teacher!
I got the A7R2 last year and I couldn't be happier... the body is still pretty compact compared to later models and the price to capability ratio (in the used market) is unbeatable.
Two alternatives based on your budget 1 A Sony A7x (x=how much you want to spend) and Sony 40 or 50 mm G 2 A Fuji camera with a Fuji 23 or 35 mm f2 (aka “Fujicrons”) or Fuji 35 f1.4. Either an x-t4 or an x-s20 camera. I own both Fuji (x-t5 & x-e4) and Sony (A7iv) gear. Sony has better image quality in low light and movie capabilities while Fuji has film simulations for wonderful sooc jpgs. Two other pros (highly subjective) for Fuji are 1) Fuji has a “soul” (a camera made by photographers for photographers) compared with the “soulless” Sony A7iv, 2) the interface/handling of a Fuji is much easier to me.
I appreciate the feedback. I’ve owned Fuji before as well. I didn’t get along with it. I found the retro styling to be gimmicky, and in my opinion the GR line up are boss when it comes to compact apsc. I know people say the Sony cameras are like computers with lenses attached, but I know them quite well. (Rx100, A72, RX10m2, A73, RX1R, RX10m4). Once you get them dialed in, you rarely need to go menu diving and then they just work. On the used market, I don’t think you can beat the Sony fullframe line up. Thanks.
You and I have very similar priorities! I don't usually make strong recommendations, but my RX1R II is by far my favorite camera, and the only one I bring when I travel. It has two qualities that outweigh all other considerations for me: the delightful images I get out of the Zeiss lens, and the silent leaf shutter for street and candid photography. You already have experienced this lens, and it already sounds like you're most attracted to this camera. I think you already have your answer, and you shouldn't settle for options that you feel are less exciting - even if you can't buy this camera in time for your trip. For what it's worth: I hoped my new A7C II would replace all my other cameras. It pairs so nicely with the Samyang 35mm f/2.8! But even though it has IBIS, an excellent battery, amazing autofocus, and more attractive JPEG colors... None of it makes me want to part with the Zeiss lens on my RX1R II. I have yet to find a compact FF lens I prefer, and I have tried a lot.
