Christ, another one of these guys that just drives a keyboard telling about how he would do it, but doesn't actually do it. And don't you worry about my skill level, I designed all the shit I build. No stolen measurements, same basic ass looking sheds usually, but built better and cleaner. You should show us how you would do this, instead of talking like youre the ace and you're the one who designed every last smallest detail about it, when the reality of it is that you're a guy who sits at his computer or phone or whatever, and does not do the tims it takes to make these videos. I design this shit, and don't mind showing other people how to do it themselves. If I drew a full line, it was for a situation that I deemed made it necessary to do so. I do not of cuts with just a small mark to guide me. I don't on all square cut framing that gets cut on the miter saw. Ok, this is a door video. The reason for individual marks and not cutting a stack of the same thing is consistency in size results. The reason for marking all straight cuts is because it will result in far more accurate cut lengths, which is pretty important on the door trim pieces as opposed to say, any of the framing members. My job with this video was to make it so a person who has very limited skills in this field, using these kinds of tools, will be able to watch the video, see how fast and accurate I can make it happen and talk about exactly what is being done, as well as hopefully what to be aware of that I have messed up on in the last, and hopefully end up being 100,% successful with me guiding them through the process, in the way that i either don't myself, or in the way i want to show them how to do it so thea will be succsssful in just a couplle hours to a half a day, and still have half the day left to drink a beer kr spend time with the wife and children, kr hell, argue with his wufe abd kick the cat abd the dig around if thats what wloats their boat for all I care, but the only part i csre about is getting it done as quickly and painless as possible without having to do anything a second time. It doesn't matter how you want to do it to go faster. By all means, do that if you are capable, but dont make yourself believe that the way i show someone who has no experience at this how to do it and be successful at it the very first tjmd, and the way i do zhit when i just wanna do the job abd fo home as quickly as possible, are two diffeeent ways if doing it. I assure you, I designed every shed I built, and nobody knows them like me, meaning you as well. I got this shed door video covered just fine. You should try diving into doing s RU-vid video some time. You'll learn a lot more new shit that way than you can ever try to teach to me. As a matter of fact, it was quite the learning curve for me, but I wasn't afraid to do it. Now it's your turn to not fear the new and unknown and show us what you can make happen with your own video

Also, just noticed it was for the 1x6 with the bevel, which the mounting location is dictated by the deck boards first. Apparently, you haven't run into problems associated with not making sure this part is right, or the fact that the mark is close to two inches from the top of the floor, which makes that method considerably more iffy using that method. There's a ton of nails in the band board, the 2x6 is rarely straight too, and we want the doors pretty close to the decking boards. It doesn't beat down with a sledge hammer later, and when it ends up too tight, the door won't close, and then it comes down to grinding an angle out of the back of the door sheeting in order to make it close all the way. A better method would be to use a tape measure holding whatever measurement on the top of the floor, with a pencil at zero. That can be good for a splinter, especially if it's OSB on the deck.. what this does not take into consideration is joist crown. Both of those methods follow the joist crown. The doors, however, do not follow the joist crown. That's the reason for marking the center separately. The doors will close on the hinge sides but not in the center if joist crown is too much and we follow it's arc, and I will still be grinding out the doors more in the center than at the hinge sides. Also, that's assuming things are imperfect in that direction, which is the usual way it would end up, but not set in stone.. anything could end up slightly off in some way. I consider it a necessity to do it the way I do it, as the other faster ways are just not accurate enough every time consistently.

Yes

@@adminaccount5577 idk if it will

well at least say why,and compare it to the correct way. If you're going to say that about a person, you kinda need to show why, which just showing a more traditional method doesn"t automatically do.That just shows an alternate method. So,yeah, to say that means you need to explain WHY it's"jackleg",and if you cannot come up with some kind of legitimate reason for saying I, or my work, is jackleg, then you;re just here to be a little asshole it seems. What a bitch move anyway, to say that without stating why you believe it to be true.A move like that,in and of itself, is a pretty cleear indicator to me that you lack integrity to begin with.So come on back and give your argument explaining why. We all know you got a notification just like I got one, only to find another ugly comment, with no argument as to why. But if you don't come back and explain why you think something is jackleg, well then I guess you may be proving why you made a bitch move like that.

Some say the gresest!

The starters on the rake keep the top corner of each shingle from curling down, and keeps a consistent straight line from each endpoint because you're applying shingles on a line and not cutting every shingle free handed and trying to end up with a really straight overhang, especially on a long run. Do the freehand cuts after a starter is on and the not so great cuts won't affect the way the edge looks. You just can't get them clean, straight lines without the take starter. And this video was done to just get a fast and working roof on a shed. This ain't the Taj Mahal. It's s shed nobody wants to buy shingles for or spend their Saturday working on. Yes, there are other ways that make it either harder or make it cost more to hide s starter bump on a three tab shingles roof that probably has a pitch so low you can only see it from the second floor corner room the boys stay in anyway, amd it ain't worth it for this super basic video. And nothing is gonna be flying off .this method has worked for decades on the eastern coast of the country. Hell, follow this video for your roof and you will have a better roof than the roofs I see every day now, and I'm the service tech of wholesale roofers in VA beach. The quality in workmanship just isn't there like it used to be. Nowadays, younger s guy that can make 6 nails shoot inn3.5 seconds. Teonste pretty close to the line they are supposed to be on, 5 are on one half of the shingle, one is right where the lap for the next shingle is, one is low and will be a shine until it rains and makes the head rusty, and then you have teonste the other end right beside one another. Half the roofs are just keyed in using no lines, and they skesysbkeybthemninndi fucking high that to take s roof apart forns repair has ended up being s tearoff on that section because they are so damn greedy about not giving enough to work with that it comes down to, especially when it's fixings short bottom overhang..seriously though, the last guy you want installing your roof is the one with the speed record. Fast always equates to less precise and less caring about it being good quality work. It's that simple. There's always a tradeoff for speed, and that is quality, and there's just no getting around that fact. Six nails in locations not ideal, and mailed crooked don't hey actually cut into the shingle due to their shitty angle can't touch four correctly driven hand drive nails. From what I see out there, the roof contractor and the roofer with the crews get what they pay for, and the customers don't really get what they think they are getting. You're probably better off hiring small local guy that runs his own crew because if you don't, you'll get a sub crew, and with that you have no idea of what to expect in quality. Five star ratings are s joke. Overcharge bybdoinlenbefsusrnyoubhave a good Google rating and can finance it,kick 500 or more back in problems and get s bad review removed rather quickly on someone with hundreds of jobs under their name, then give a teonste rating tons giybthsybdoesnnice work but not that kind of work load and you kill jid good tdting. S five star ratings system is about the worst system ever used because the one with lots of transactions doesn't get penalized when hebshouldz and the one with few transactions gets far over oenalized, and there are ways people chest the system by getting people to go leave s review, such as at s party..it's just s bad system if you want quality work done for you. Seek out a smaller company if you want good work done, and don't do the job in extrrme cold or hea

I don't know which 6" pattern you're referring to, so I'm going to assume it's not for your courses of shingles since that's closer to a 5 1/2" pattern. And let me comment on that a sec. From what I've seen, all immigrant crews are so freaking greedy for 1/8 and 1/4 inches that they won't follow and proven layout of doubles on metric shingles. The layout begins with getting the bottom line first, where they tend to be already greedy..after that line is established, you run your marks by marking double numbers off zero being on that line. 11,22,33,44,55 etc. Now that's already somewhat greedy since the actual exposure is supposed to be 5 5/8", and out doubles layout results in a 5!1/2* exposure. Seriously, that's greedy enough..new generation crews are self learning how to be even greedier, which results in ink lines being exposed in the roof, but worse than that is the problem that srises when the roof has to come apart and BDO whatever it's apart for, then go back together. These guys doing the greedy layouts don't have to do that part of the job. They get so greedy with going outside slecs on exposure that half the time sunroof can't go back together without having more and more of the top part of the shingle color being exposed, making it son's shirt course has to be run just to hide it, or the whole side has to be torn off. And I was wrong on the above statement Doubles lowers exposure distance, which is giving us 1/8" extra overlap, which gives us a little more to work with when the roof comes apart and has to be lit back together. Seriously, if you aren't doing 11's, or doubles off your bottom shingle line, you're being one of those 1/8" greedy bastards and you're doing shitty ass fucking work. Just straight up shitty. And I'm saying this because I stopped building my sheds about three years ago to tskens supervisor position at a local roofing company, and now I am the only service tech for wholesale roofers in VA Beach, VA. I am the one who disassembled the brand new roofs and fixes every leak they get, and they sometimes do more than five tearoff roofs daily. I fix every leak that someone may have tried once to fix. As soon as trying caulk once doesn't work, it becomes my job. I work in the field in less in brand new tearoff roofs that are only days old and hold the credentials to be able to speak on the subject. Now, the 6" layout question. Three tab shingles are the most difficult roof to make look good. Arks hide all kinds of ugly, and three tab shingles highlight every bit of ugly that your probably not accustomed to having to think about. If you step the shingles like you step arks, your keys are going to look horrible. If you want your keys to look good and not look like dog shit, don't stair step the shingles. Run them straight up, trying to finish one at a time to the top.your layout lines must run square to one another in the verticals and horizontals, or your keys will "step" over one way or the other. The same way you can run edge shingles on sn "A" and see the A is out of square to the course lines on arks and nobody ever knows the gable is out, on three tabs it shows up as keys stepping over. Run vertical if you want the keys to look straight up and down without staggering back and forth. And God forbid you have to run them on a one story steep roof with five dormers. Talk the homeowner into arks on that roof if at all possible. Everybody will be happier in the end. But if you do have to run three tabs on something like that, first, my prayers are with you, but again run vertical rows, running them into the dormer from only one direction, and running beyond the dormer below it and above it. when you pass the dormer above and below it, put new bond lines immediately to reconnect the top to the bottom and rejoin forms full height row, and do that until you are done with the main roof, then drop back and fill back in where you have empty spots on one side of sll the dormers. The only place I ever, ever stair step three tab shingles is on smaller A roof where you cannot see key lines from the ground. Anytime your keys start staggering back and forth too much, simply popnannee set of bond lines from top to bottom of sunroof section, which will usually just be somewhere near the center of the section and only on the front main roof, and than run one more time of shingles and cut every shingle to the new bond lines you put on the roof. Sometimes a shingle will come up really short of the line, and you will have to separate one or two shingles into single tabs to get it to look good but not be such a drastic change. Everything shows on three tab roofs if your aren't good at doing a good clean straight layout and following it as perfectly as possible. I suggest not even learning how not to do it next time and just using arks.

Did t notice I was doing that, actually. I really do try to just spit out any information that sets whomever is watching into a place where they have something, anything at all to not be a hundred percent in the dark, as the place where they are at like right here and right now. I haven't been here in a while. Ive actually been the service sept for a local roofing company here in Va Beach for about three years now. Tough job, actually. Ive learned a lot. Ive seen rain leave a roofgo into a gutter come back I side the structure, and leak some 15 foot inside the house, and never would have ever figured it out without the homeowners nephew telling me he could hear it inside the wall. I figured if he can hear it I should be able to as well. He was right, and I happened to have a skill set that could decipher what was happening. Being the service call guy on residential tear-off or any roof work, has problems with it. You have to prove it is not the roof that is leaking in order for the people you work for to get paid, which ultimately means that I have to find the leak, regardless of who is at fault. Ive had to caulk up countless WI Dows to prove the roof didn't leak. Ive had to redo valleys that weren't done right countless tiles as well. But by far, the above mentioned leak was the best, with the Seco d. Eat being one where the design of the standard size bricks themselves were the culprit. On that job, the homeowner called the office and told them he didn't think I was experienced enough to be trying to figure out the problem on his roof. This dude got all new everything. Complete tear-off of shingle. All new decking and I mean all new decking and a brand new TPO roof on the flat, on top of new decking. The roof aint supposed to leak,but it did, and did in a very odd way with little rain. Ya learn to listen to customers descriptions. Words have very definite meanings. You can say 'yo", and just the way you say it can be hostile or passive, or conveying danger, depending upon your mood, their mood, and variety of other things. Language means a lot. Not many people use words or terms like cascading and like a waterfall in normal conversations. Descriptors mean a lot gotta go. Neighbor two houses away jslkki g for a white ankle biter. I have. O idea how to spell it but I'm sure my device dictionary would. And I was actually trying to post a comment to the link below but got jammed up here. I was going to post that his roof sheeting is wromd somewhere unless he has sheeting with no grain or has evenly sized squares in his roof framing, but commenting was not available. I hate that. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9ZyUXLy4zK8.html

At least you weren't a total jerk when you commented that the video sucked, or at least the camera work. And ya kicked out that you may have gotten something out of it still. That, people, is an excellent example of what constructive criticism is supposed to look like. Even if a compliment hadn't been thrown in there with the criticism, it would still be constructive criticism, nonetheless. I believe this was the video where my daughter needed some money for something, school was out for some reason, and instead of just giving it to her so she could sit around doing a bunch of nothing I got her to just come out to work with me for a day or two. Then I made the really awesome decision to not want my face in the video and told her don't get my face in the video. So if this is that video where the camera is pointed everywhere except where it was needed, that was totally my decision and my fault. I remember having had multiple nasty comments that essentially were insults directed at her, with those people making the rude, insulting comments having no idea what the situation was out there that day. There's one video somewhere where she was cold and shivering. This may be it. Not sure, didn't check it out before replying to this.. As I was saying, constructive criticism has value, whereas cementing on any person's video, regardless of whose and how well it was done, in a way that is ride or.imsulting to any person ,.reduces.what could and should have been constructive criticism, to being a mirror that shows everyone exactly what kind of person the one making that comment truly is. What's ironic is that ppl who make insulting comments never, ever, ever have any videos that are helpful to people at all. We all know the old saying, " if you don't have anything good to say, then don't go out of your way to sign in, click comment button, then type out a ten minute letter just to be nasty to another person intentionally and unnecessarily. That's an evil person who does that kind of stuff. Thanks for the comment. I've sto0ped building sheds for a while. Now I'm the service tech at a couple different roofing companies. I should start doing leak detection videos on that. I'm pretty decent at it after a couple years at it, I think, and have a couple that were so cool I had to get the xwl phone out and take the video for upload later, because I'd I didn't, the magical moment would be fine forever, and couldn't truly be duplicated and look authentic. Again, thanks and have a great Christmas

Your video turned out to be very helpful. Here's what I built with your help from your video. It was done all with used and recycled free materials except for the shiplap pine siding, and 4 new 2x4s.Thanks again! drive.google.com/file/d/1vmggHjf9Jb6vgAN4TCW0CQaAH0vcuQsu/view?usp=share_link

Thank you! I'm broke down at a gas station right now and waiting for the truck to cool down a bit. Higher amperage electrical, actually, and just kinda killing time so Im taking a moment to catch up on other things that are within my grasp, such as check out the comments and see whether they make me like or dislike humans today. People, males specifically, seem to feel empowered or something when they speak down on guys who make RU-vid videos. Or maybe just me. Hell, maybe just my lack of tolerance at times. I've seen enough there to justify keeping check in that too. But anyway, thanks for the comment that was based in anything other than trying to down someone for trying to help out the next guy on his project that happens to be something that I'm pretty good at, and self taught aside from primarily what I learned from my dad as a frame carpenter. Sheds are definitely different, and the only things that transfer over really are the basic 16 and 24 layouts, rafter layout and pitch cuts, and standard sheeting joints. And cornice work is pretty much the same system, without all the bevels for the sheds that houses typically get. At least I headed in knowing a lot of standard procedures, and with a little tweaking, I did get good at it. Building is boring, though. Designing and perfecting measurements is far more satisfying and keeps my interest better. Have a good day.

Ya, I know when you halve the boards as i do, you can only get a win/ win situation with the grain of you use only boards that actually have the core of the tree within the board for the most part. That's almost all in theory, though. Boards will cup either way. just today i wa doing cornice repairs and said the very same thing to my customer about his 2x12 treated treads on his front steps, yet the bottom tread, which was installed "per standard" to reduce the possibility of having the boards cup with the outer edges raising instead of lowering, was cupping backwards worse then the one mentioned. so that is a "in theory" at best rule. Nobody ever mentions the 2x2, 2x4, or 4x4 that defies all the rules and just goes AWOL as hell. We can't even pick out which one is most likely to succeed in that situation much of the time, but I do see it a lot more with treated than untreated material. Also, the gap. Try doing all your corner boards, rakes, fascias, and little 1x4 soffits in treated, or even 2x4 treated. you'll have gaps between everything. Nothing will be left without the gap. Treated wood at the big stores is so damn wet it weighs nearly twice what it will weigh in just a couple days. That argument has more merit if using cured treated, and very little merit if using off the floor material at nearly any place except the stores where people only buy a stick or two at a time because prices are so high. I never fear that something will happen and me running this stuff tight will result in swelling that causes a problem. I have that problem only in the untreated 1x maerial I use on the doors, and that's because the customer didn't paint them after they cured for a couple days to shrink and allow moisture to escape, then let them get long periods of rain on them. Also, these 1x untreated will go AWOL in this particular environment when they are used on doors. In some ten years of building, I've been back to replace them a few times, both in the vertical legs and the horizontal tops and centers on the doors themselves. They are nailed too good on the structure itself it seems and does not happen there. I likely mentioned the drawback of having cups reversed with this method of being cheap in my video, but if i didn't, and hasn't been mentioned before as it should have been by now, then you would be the first one to mention that, and in theory and standard practice, is correct. I profile stuff when building something for myself, like my decking for my trailer. I wanted full cups for my boards for that, and mounted per standard. I dug through and got the ones i wanted for myself, and wanted the ones that were like petrified wood too. i know exactly which ones I want for a trailer deck.

I would use hurricane clips and screws. The cheaper hurricane clips that are either rights or lefts. With those,you can attach to either side of the joist you prefer, because on each end of the shed you will attach on different sides, and on the runner the other end of the hurricane clip will attach flat to the outside or inside, whichever you prefer. So,using these clips, all your fasteners will be attached from the side somewhere, making it so you don't have to raise the shed but so high. I would probably go about it by getting two outside run era under it first, then get a cinder block or car wheel under each end to get working room. Just worry with lining one up and getting each end of it attached first. No reason to .was with lining other one up until first one is actually attached. Then do second one. Line centers up and attach centers. Another way that could work well could e an angle bracket outside the runner. Pretty much like a .metal shelf bracket that's predrilled for both sides, but the would put you in a position of an upward attachment some 6 or less inches off the ground. Also, with good measurements, the hurricane clips can be pre attached to the runner, and have that half of the attachments done where you can work on it easier like in a bench.

This is the standard way shingles were run by most people on the east coast before architect shingles and dedicated starter shingles were available. The only thing some guys would really do different if they were doing it the "right" way would be to have one line below the bottom starter line and run one course lower, which would be like a starter you are familiar with today on all the arc shingles, and then just run a shingle on the 12' line. then they would cut the tabs off the bottom shingle, and what is left is just like todays starter. It would be 7" tall with the seal strip at the bottom to seal the first course shingles at the edge, where it actually needs to be sealed. Also, the way i showed, it des have two shingles stacked, without the 5" offset you get by running two courses, and it does result in a noticeable line across the top of the first course of shingles where the second course ends up settling down to the roof deck after it drops down two thicknesses of shingles instead of one. A nice, flat roof will show that on top of the finished product, but it's still beenthe acceptable way of doing a 3 tab roof for decades. Tese 3 tab roofs are the hardest to make look good, because the shingles have the keys in themthat have to run square on the entire roof or it shows. The hardest thing to run and make look good is a steep 3 tab roof with dormers. Arks hide all flaws in imperfect structure and imperfect application, but the 3 tab roof doesn't hide either one. you can't rack these shingles like arks are done. keys will never line up. i mean you can, but it will never, ever, look good and straight. Even on a perfectly square roof deck, it's still hard, especially if you have two guys on one section that run really different from one another. Big protrusions like chimneys and dormers have to have courses above and below them run across pas the chimney or dormer, then straightened back up with a new bond row going all the way from bottom to top again, and to keep it so that the keys keep lining up, it usually needs lines from bottom to top again after passing the protrusion. that will result in some shingles needing to have 1/16, 1/8, 3/16" cut off of them, and some shingles will come up short and not make it to the new bond lines, and sometimes have to be separated into three different tabs that you have to space wider apart to minimize noticing it. i don't build sheds anymore right now. I work in the norffolk/ va beach area of VA for the guy who does all of Wholesale Roofers work, which is the most popular residential roofing company locally. My employer does work for other roofing companies and contractors that sell jobs to homeowners and my boss has the crews. He does his own jobs too, but he does roofs for other people every day, and does sub work for them way more than his own jobs. he keeps up to 7 crews working on a new job every day if they are like 30 sq and smaller. That's like 35 full tearoff jobs per week that goes through his hands. they're hispanic crews with one fluent English speaking guy per job as a supervisor that can talk to customers without confusion of trying to hold a conversation with someone who does not know Spanish. the supervisors deal with that themselves with the crews. LOL, i kept falling asleep in truck too much because it's boring sitting in a truck wheni was doing the sheds for the past ten years, so i don't supervise anymore. i think i upgraded jobs in a way though. i do all the problems with leaks, and i don't have to be on site at 7 AM. my boss does real good doing so much sub work. always got some sweet rides. i'm talking Maserati and Rolls Royce rides, a harley, Chevelle, lifted Denali dually. very smart guy. hope this helped.

@@cheapshedkits thank you I Will have to watch your vids few times to get what you try to teach. Im in Minnesota in summer planing in doing my house so I got time to recién your vids once I did singles in a stop stiyle and notice Was easy to get croked you mention somthing about that in ome of your vids sorry my english Im from México

It's all good I understand what you're saying. i wouldn't put 3 tabs on anything i owned because for like $5 more per bundle or less sometimes like $10 per square, you get shingles that have another 4 years life expectability, as well as getting the arks that are easier to run and hide out of square issues with both the structure and with the installer. but to keep the upgrade cost that low,you do have to get one of the colors that they sellin both arks and 3 tabs and use the 3 tabs for the caps. For GAF, which is the only mfr they sell at both lowes and home depot, those colors are going to be charcoal, weather wood/ weather gray, shakewood/ golden cedar. The name before the / is the ark color name, and the name after the / is the three tab color name. there are other colors that cross over both shingle styles, but those are the three that nearly every lowes and home depot will have, and other colors that cross won't be at most stored, like pewter. I think autumn brown got phased out in arks and the ark darker brown is now considerably darker than the 3 tab autumn brown, but they would probably stil work together. if thy can make the color od the actual caps for some shingles as different from the shingle they go to, ain't no reason why the roofer can't do a color match thats the same amount different i guess.

@@cheapshedkits thank you for the info. I Will practice with my little shed and t The garage.. and then my little house. what air and nailer. Set up you recomend.?

@@joecostu1571 No real recommendation on that because equipment is so readily available. i'm one guy.I don't really need a gas compressor because i don't work the new construction jobs or a crew, so a pancake compressor does me just fine. they are so available thatI buy used and don't work on one when it breaks. They are always around, in quantity, for $50, and i can choose how far i will travel for one i like better via an ad. last one i bought was an upright ryobi, where the tank is situated up and down vs the normal sideways. definitely makes carrying iteasier as the tank isn't banging me in the shin every step, but hits my leg higher up and hits it softly bcthe senter of the tank is against my leg the whole time i carry it. Gun, i have a bosch bulldog right now. i've had it a few years now, with no problems. it's under 200 at lowes. The normal bosch guns have the weird load design, but some guys love them due to their power that drives nails in where the hitachi has a bit of a weak punch sometimes. For gas compressors, most are using rollair or hitachi, or metabo, the new hitachi name. Both seem to work fine. everything is gonna break sooner or later. And then there is no name, or off name stuff. sometimes works great, surpassing name brand, and sometimes not. Name brand or no name, you don't know just how well it will perform util you own and use one. A better angle for you to hit this from is not specific equipment, but angle of approach. The #1 thing i see the Hispanic crews taking a bad approach on is application, specifically of the shingles themselves. Every crew has different measurements, which are measured out perfectly, which always results in spreading the shingles too far apart at times. Don't approach it that way. it is about the stupidest thing to do to not allow a little room for breathing and recovery if something happens. most crews start greedy and end greedy over 1/4 inches, when in the real working world, that 1/4 is nearly not even noticeable as a loss until it gets spread just a little too much and you habe nail lines on the shingles showing. go with lines every other shingle or every 3th shingle, and use measurements that allow a little overlap. For standard, that means 10, 20, 30, etc, and for metric, that means 11, 22, 33, etc. that's after the top of the bottom shingle location has been established, again, not being greedy over possibly overexposure. Bottoms, give it an extra 1/2 inch instead of making it have only a 1/2 inch overhang in the middle. i see those problems with install techniques on the daily. i've seen overexposure, with no kind of extra anywhere to fix it, reguire tearing the roof off to fix white lines showing, but every crew won't change to what was once the normal standard of 11,22,33 that offers a little recovery space. There's not a roof that i go up onto that doesn't have shingles spaced too far apart somewhere or have bottoms, and rakes too usually, that end up below the exposure they were told they were supposed to have. on even the biggest of roofsm the most you will ever gain by all that being breedy over 1/8 and 1/4 inches is the 5 or 5 1/2 it takes for the course of shingles they got away from having to run, all in the name of doing it their way or being jut a little bit faster, and it's just never worth that course of shingles they are doing al this stupid shit of under spec overhangs and overexposing shingle area to obtain. Youhave 5 guys running the highest grade equipment you can get to take off an put back on that tearoff roof that costs in the neighborhood of $500 per square. Those crewsdont get all that. the company that sells either the roof or subs it gets that, and those crews get less than 100 per sq of the money on a labor only deal, buy that's still 2 grand on a 20 sq roof for 5 guys to eat on, and they are done in a day. Still no reason for individual crews to be that greedy on measurements. nobody is going hungry in this deal, but do good work and it does show, and it does getrecognized as being good quality install practices, and you can be thenext roofer drivinga Rolls Royce, and that does happen. my boss ain't no different tan me, and i'm better actually as far as actual skills working on the structure, but he works 6 or more crews per day, knows what the work is worth, and has a Rolls. and he's younger than me too. Roofing is big, big, big business. Anybody can go to the top from nothing, but it will be a lot easier clawing your way to the top if you don't have to go back on stupid shit like spreading shingles too far apart every day.

Because it was taken quickly to simply show a design technique. Most guys putting a removable post system in already know what they are looking at, or will at least be able to figure it out easily, and won't feel the need to make a rude comment like yours as they have better things to do. it was intended to just show a very well working system where many techniques tend to not be so successful.

@@cheapshedkits Incorrect. Webster defines rude as being “offensively impolite or ill-mannered” which does not apply to my comment. “Most guys” as you put it who are putting in a removable post system I would surmise wouldn’t be researching youtube about the topic because in fact those guys would already have the knowledge about how such a system is put together. Simply because comments to a post which may not on its face be glowing or expressing great praise does not mean such comments are rude.

@@livelife8739 Negative, your opening 5 words fall within the 'offensively impolite or ill-mannered" parameters, and i love how some of you people use the attack before the attack strategy to act as if you haven't spoken offensively. lemme guess, far left liberal? those are typically the type who like those strategies, then act as if it's unnoticeable and thus non-existent. i'm pretty sure I want to be finished talking to you, because historically, this doesn't really get into being a better situation, and rarely stays the same as it is, either. Any further replies, please be very careful with wording so it cannot be viewed as insulting in any possible way, or just the comments beyond these current comments may likely be deleted. Also, have a good day.

Also, a removable post system is not a well known possibility for something that works for them. mostly only guys with larger vehicles will ever even need them, such as car, boat, and equipment trailers coupled with the necessity of accessing their own back yard often enough to justify the need to figure something out. I, personally, have configured a removable post system once, and it paled in comparison to the ease of construction and effectiveness of this system, hence the reason i took a quick video of it's design.That, in itself, should be indicative of me not needing to be the one getting the glory, which should suggest that not all comments would need to prise my work, either. Give credit where credit is due is fair for me to live by, and at least i did have the integrity to simply show the system setup and state that some other unknown person designed and built it, and in my own opinion, it's by far the best configuration i have seen so far for one of these systems. Whomever built it was certainly no rookie, and that person's own finished product reflects that they likely have a rather vast skill set, and that they are experienced enough to see thing that pop flags up for them as to whether it's good or bad design. Sometimes, I see just one step of something and apply it to something else because it is simply superior to the way i have been doing something, regardless of how long or hw many times i have done it, and from then on, I will always do it with that particular step instead. learning and getting better is what it is. One must be willing to change their ways of doing things to be considered by their peers to be very good at what they do. Techniques, raw materials, and tools all have the ability to justify the need for change, and if one is unwilling to change, then one gets left behind because of that. Cutting edge in one's specific professional field is where things change, and new ways come to be the most advanced and up to date way that something is done, and it's only after others in the same field have tried and done it that little by little, it becomes the newer standard. I love change. if it weren't for others prior to myself wanting something to be better somehow, i could be using a hand saw after i arrive at work with my horse and wagon. It's only through the excellence of others that i am able to drive a truck to work and use an electric or even battery powered electric saw, use air for nail guns, use a tape measure that doesn't have to be folded and unfolded, have concrete or mortar mix that comes in bags large enough to enable smaller jobs to be done without a truck or mixer, etc. i'm just one of millions and millions of people who strive for something they simply define as just a little bit better than before, but at least i do get to call myself one of them. there are a great many whom have the agenda to stop any one of us at any time with useless attacks and debates that most often have a very clear motive of intentionally causing drama and chaos where there was none prior, kind of like your original comment and follow-up comment seem to suggest as being your agenda and intent.

@@cheapshedkits Interesting. No one on this green earth would ever consider me as a liberal to any degree, hilariously funny. Fact: You posted a video and two individuals (myself and another) commented on it. You labeled me as “Rude” and speculated about my presumed political leanings without even knowing me or without cause and labeled the second commenter as “Overdramatic”. I believe your expanded comments has cleared up any ambiguities. You have a nice day also.

No, you suck for posting just that comment and nothing else. Do you have anything important to say, or was that little bitch comment the only thing on your agenda?

OK, so my mom raised a son who does very shit camera work, and your mom raised a son who has nothing better to do that to spend the time to say only that bullshit in a comment. Nothing at all of any value was in your comment. I'm very disappointed in your mom's lack of professionalism in this matter, Alex. I swear, Alex, it's like she didn't even try just a little teeny weeny bit. She may have to get shitcanned regardless.

@@cheapshedkits the fact that you took time out of your day and replied a long ass paragraph to my one liner makes me think that your the one with nothing better to do 😂 why are you getting so but hurt about the truth , we both know it’s shit camera work plus I came here because I needed a good educational tutorial but instead I got a 2 year old recording so I got upset that I wasted my time. Next time don’t upload shit and people won’t comment negative things.

@@AlexAlex-zn9lf Alex, it doesn't matter how good or bad a video is. There's always Monday morning quarterbacks that can "do it better", but all they do is say that. Your acct was created in 2011. That's a decade old acct with nothing on it; not even a playlist. You could have, at the very very least, created a playlist of stuff that's helped you. Stuff that you've found that was actually very good and informative, and helped you somehow in some way. Instead, all I have to go on is your comment here on this one video. How am I supposed to come to any other conclusion as to the kind of person you are, when you've done nothing visibly useful at all, and you made one asshole type comment? So, you tell me buddy, are you part of the solution or part of the problem? If you're not doing something, anything at all, to try and make things just a little better for the next guy, something that shows any kind of intent other than to be an asshole, then, unfortunately, the only evidence I have to work with is your comment here, and your account registration date. It's all good to not be helpful. I don't expect that of anybody. But if you're going to comment negatively, and with cuss words too, then you really do need something attached to your account to outweigh your asshole comment, or you are put into a group of people who just make asshole comments, yet don't do anything good here at all. Show me something I missed. And you're only one of hundreds with registration dates of 5+ years ago, not even a playlist of stuff you liked, and just one extremely negative comment that could have been worded to not be used as evidence to conclude that you're just an asshole. You chose the words, and you chose to spend the time to comment. I chose to spend the time to show you the information I had to go with. You were doing better when you did nothing to help, because now, with your comments here, you would be better off if you had just registered today and had never commented at all. Kinda sad, but I see it all the time. Set higher goals, you're going backwards. Go back and find some videos you liked, make a playlist, something, anything but have a 10yr old account with one asshole comment. Be useful instead of just one more of those kinds of ppl. Every person helps or hurts in some way, even the ones who get useful content but don't help those videos get to the top of the list when looking for them. All that takes is a like button and a playlist, and the bullshit comment you made could have been done with a dislike button and not having to see the words you chose for your opinion. Intent is pretty hard to hide.

So, assuming like 4 stringers, you just burned up two 8' 2x's. Still need the piece at the top of the ramp where it joins the box, or it'll be weak n floppy between the stringers. For that spacing you'll be needing 3/4 plywood, treated. That alone will set ya back about the cost of this entire ramp, prior to covid. I have no idea what any numbers are now, but we'll assume equal price increases, although i do thick the 2x6x8 pt tends to be one of the better priced pieced of lumber on the aisles we would be shopping. Now, you have stringers edge applied to ground, and plywood, held together with glue, out in he elements, as well as ground contact. You won't get ground contact plywood at lowes or home depot, nd all plywoods de-laminate when they stay in water for a couple days. All OSB gets way thicker, except the smartside. The tips of your stringers that go to a point are done soon, as well as the contact edge of plywood, and possibly crosscut ends of plywood because they like to wick up water. You could put an additional 2x under the end of your ramp, as could I, and save your tips of stringers. It would save my entire ramp. The only thing I see that design being better at is my ramp can and will get slick up and down due to vertical run grain, but theres ways to get better traction, and your plywood wouldn't do much better as it's a sheet product rather than 1 or 2x material mounted horizontally. And he thicker you want your stringers, the more they have a 1.5 wide bottom cut, not factory edge, but a cut, sitting on top of the ground, and the wider tour top band 2x must be to catxh the entire top of the stringers end cuts, unless you design it as a ledgered system. My entire ramp it 1.5 thick and yours is 3/4. Mine is 2x6 without laminates and glue, whereas yours is already compromised due to that. Stringers and a 2x6 or 5/4 wooden deck board laid horizontally is a better argument than your plywood. It may come in a little cheaper too, as well as allow the ability for spacing gaps between boards for better traction when wet. Your horizontal sheet good may suck as much or worse than my vertical grain 2x decking. Of all three designs, mine beats on cost and possibly longevity, the stringer/ horizontal decking wins with safety and possibly compares in longevity due to the 2x6 horizontal at ground contact, which will compensate for stringer tips to some extent, and your plywood i would avoid because it's not even intended to be used outside. The stringer/ horizontal decking, coupled to an additional horizontal beneath the tip, is by far the best setup, primarily due to it's best when wet deck. Everything costs, and my ramp is also not only cheapest, but will be done in like half the time as the stringer deigns too. And composites cost far too much and have no real strength specs for deck boards, requiring 16 centers minimum.

Also, a guy previously commented about a plywood built ramp he has vs looking at mine, and said what he thinks of the two in comparison. I just know i would avoid that ply deck, and now that I am thinking about it, a couple more stringers and some 8' dog ear fence pickets could be a possible cheap horizontal board design. 12" centers could go a long way on that, and above the horizontal being more safe when wet situation, with horizontal boards one could possible lap edges one over other or shiplap them for an integrated "stepping" ramp deck, which would break the continuous deck slope up to like 5" increments that slope-drop across the incline from bottom to top. Would definitely add serious traction to both foot traffic and motorized wheel equipment, such as riding mowers. And if you build for equipment, test your incline before building. Rider mowers don't like the top of a 4' ramp and usually need a 6' tall deck on a shed build like mine where the floor is 12" above grade and grade is the same as shed at bottom of ramp. Shed in a lower grade with ramp at a higher grade is ideal setup for a mower entry, and shed at top of hill sucks for everything except feeling like your shed is safer from getting flooded, but could require a rather long ramp for just good walking angle, and even longer for riding mowers. I like sheds behind the hill myself. That situation makes it so it's 8 or possibly 6 from grade outside door to top of floor for a no ramp situation, and makes something like this 4" tall ramp for a mower nice and low pitched and easy to get in and out to where ya don't even think about it like you have to on a floor a foot above grade with the same 4" tall ramp.

you don't know what a 15 degree bevel is? You're right then, this is not for someone with no experience. It's for somebody with no experience that has a mindset of success rather than a mindset of "Wah, I can't figure out what 15 degrees means, or the word bevel, and put them together is the context of this video and be successful, even though I have open book testing with the internet at my fingertips, and can probably come up with any kind of scrap of wood big enough for testing my posible ability right out the gate because I know me, and I'm a beast. Or maybe not. Dude, if you're that weak minded, I cannot question your decision to pass by this one. You clearly did indeed do what is in your best interest. I'd rather see a guy post something like he fucked up two times before he thought it was good enough for his grandma though, or even a female say it was a learning experience cutting a 54 inch long 15 degree bevel. Had to start the saw 3 times and back out of the cut twice before I figured out how to make it go straight. anything but a younger male, obviously due to not having the iheart to figure out what a 15 degree bevel even is before telling himself it's too hard. If you do that over something so freakin' simple to find and understand the basic principle of, then all I can tell ya is stay in school and don't fuck around with your grades and figuring out real fast what your career will be. If you're 18+ years old, you're either a dead-ass or straight up idiot, if ur underage as young as 14 or 15, I would say has been outside or the arena and company of normal, blue collar construction worker type guys, 16 and 17 I would quietly think verge of being an idiot maybe, but not say it. 18 and over, though, the problem is YOU, and nothing else. You instantly made the choice to not get your hands dirty by saying it's outside your capabilities, without even finding out what the term means. BYW, this 15 degree bevel it totally unnecessary. You can build the same ramp without any of the bevels, but it's worth it in the end to do the bevels, or i wouldn't spent the time to do them. You, or anybody else, can do this same ramp with all square cuts, and the only thing that changes in the way it's done is that the 8' boards will end up slightly shorter. just find the shortest board, get it cut in half so both are same size, and all other boards are either same size or slightly longer and you'll figure that out. nd the other thing that changes is marking where the ledger goes for the boards to sit on. I prolly did just a deck board with a pencil line under it for this video. For no bevels, there will be a gap behind the top plane of the deck boards. Put one up under a door as in video, then using a scrap 2x, like the piece lef over from the 10 footer, and make sure its horizontal like the band board will be later, butt it up under the deck board and draw a line under it. You're just substituting a scrap that is easy to hold and get aligned for your marks only. This no bevel method will lower that band board about a half inch. That's all that changes. The bevels simply make tighter fitting connections under the deck boards, have better fastener ability, and on top, it will catch leaves and debris due to the gap between the deck boards and floor frame. I'm sure it's far, far faster to build this way. For the poster of this comment though, and for the record, he chose to not try. Trying would be to go look up what a bevel circular saw cut is, and then seeing what it is and giving up I guess. At least be scared of the saw or something first, though. That's legitimate possibly, but not knowing what it is just is not a legitimate reason to say you can't do this.And if you are a younger male, it's an argument that could work to get you out of doingor attempting it with an authoritative individual, but that person is not whom said you cannot be capable of doing this with success. You bear that weight. alone. Nobody has the authority to tell any person they are not capable of doing something they desire to accomplish, assuming they are free to attempt a task. They can influence you, but in the end, hat is your decision, and yours alone. any man or woman is allowed to walk alone to accomplish something they desire to accomplish, especially when they've been told they are not capable of it. It's not their decision, so put authority where it belongs, as well as blame. Have a great day ppl.

LOL, just noticed the name "Holly". I'll apologise first gor thinking I was dealing with a guy, and second, for not being very nice. That, I really am sorry for. I do not hold a female to the same standard I hold a male to. Aside from that, I've outlined what differs if not using angles. Girls are allowed to know what a 15 degree bevel is, though. They are allowed to driver stick shift cars, tractor trailers, dirt bikes, street bikes, dump trucks, and do nearly any other thing a male can do. Camera work doesn't need to be all that great because it's so simple of a project. BTW, I wash my own clothes, do my own dishes, clean my own residence, behind other oppressive people I must add, cook my own food, clean my own bathroom, and clean my own kitchen, and run a tight ship. I cook for my two grandsons, my daughter, and myself a couple or more times per week, and before the situation I am in here with them right now, I stayed at a motel alone in my room for 2 1/2 years, cooking every weekend that I was off work, as well as doing laundry and cleaning my room. I'm allowed to do anything I am compelled to do for myself and the improvement of my personal quality of life, without asking anybody for permission. This is my life, and I call the shots. Being a success at something, and not being a total failure at something, are both not a total failure. An ugly looking job can still be a completed job with working results. I have no idea how old you are, but I'll assume adult minimum or higher in age, and I'll assume you are free to have tried this project had you chosen to try it. I totally understand some females are just a lot more dainty and feminine than others, but to be fair, some males are even more feminine and dainty that the average female, but I cerainly understand how this could not be the right project for likely over 50% of the females out there, even call it 85% of the females out there per hundred. That still means there are 15 of the 100 that could attempt and be successful at it. Maybe also think of this. 365 days in a year. Even if I have 300 really bad days per year, that still leaves me with 65 good days per year. I'd prefer the numbers be reversed in that situation, but if i had to choose between 65 good days and 0 good days, I'll take the 65 good days. I'm still alive, life ain't all that bad even when I am not lovinh it, and I got two grandsons age 3 and 2 that I have to try and help not be stupid asses and help guide toward a life that's meaningful and not just thrown away, and my daughter has a little girl baby that she is pregnant with now. So, 65 ain't the best, read thru the comments, this ramp ain't the best, see the shit i say sometimes, I ain't the best, either, you're not the best person to attempt it maybe, it wouldn't be the best one ever built, but all the above mentioned could be considered to be good enough. This is Earth and Humans; perfection isn't happening anyway. Specially with girls.Have a wonderful day, and again, my apologiesfor my harshness when I thought you were a male.

Racking like what? I don't rack 3 tabs. I run them vertically. Keys will never line up if you rack, and running side to side is even worse. Racking is for arcs which hide even the shittiest of workmanship. Probably the hardest shingle roof to do and make look good is definitely a 3 tab roof, but one with lots of dormers.

What up mikey. I prolly ain't even got your number anymore. I had a couple catastrophic situations with my phone. I let one of them go. Still have personal 777-0103 phone. Hit it up first wit a txt declaring who ya is if ya wants me to respond or pick up or something. I'm staying on Independence a couple blocks off shore drive. Not that far like Independence sounds like it could be. Its one major light past diamond springs. Northampton is so close to shore drive u can stand at either one and see the other. I'm almost to Chic's beach, but not quite that far. Only has houses on one side, because its Navy housing on other side. I'm in a yellow house, second house from end of houses at Northampton end. Got a school bus in back yard, and at night, I have a pink porch light. Not really far. If you're living over in the same area you were in when you left studios, go straight down little creek to shore, take a right, and after you pass diamond its the third light i think. The other lights are small lights for base entry. May only be the second light from diamond. Take a right at independence, next to last house on right. You don't see the pink porch light as well coming that was. The neighbor at the last house has an orange roar work barrel type thing near the sidewalk. If ya come that direction and miss it and don't think fast enough to do a Uturn, you will have to go across the overpass at north hampton, but if u pass it, take the next right, then bear off right, and go back around the blocks that way and you will get to try it again. I never know when I will be home or what hours i hit the streets. I'm not driving the extended cab 4x4 right now either. I'm driving a green diesel 3/4 ton same body style as the 4x4, wih a green commercial style work cap with tool boxes built it. i back it in, or pull in and turn it around in back yard, and only car ever in driveway out front or side in front of back fence is daughters durango. Could be a maroon mustang out front instead, but that would likely only be if something else had a problem and daughter started using that for her number 1. My cars are always out back for the most part unless itls the weekend and I'm doing some in and out stuff, Can't miss that school bus yellow ass bus tho. I'm taking the seas out of it right now. Just finished getting all the floor bolts out-alone. Bout to go back out and start removing wall side bolts. One side is wall mount and other side near aisle is floor mount. I'll be out there half the night tonight. We have weird hours here. She works 2rd shift and gets home like 5 in the morning, and I just work around that and watch the kids when she is at work. Very different than life was before, especially at Studios. Now i have a 2 and 4 year old with me a lot, but at least they are boys and don't mind doing the kind of stuff i do so much. Anyway, I'll see ya soon. Hope Grandma is doing OK.

Show us anything other than jerk words and nothing useful or good, across your entire account. Wonder what ppl will see when they check out your profile. If you arent part of the solution, guess where that defaults you to? I guess ur smart enough to figure out what i mean.

Wellyou should be rather comfy with it if u build one for yourself, because you're a little bitch.

I'm not gay, but if ur a bitch, I bet it's still two dudes when ur gittin down. do u dress or not?

It makes a consistent edge looking from underneath. Cut just short of it about 1/4 or less and looks really nice on top as well. Mostly cosmetic.

Also, without a rake starter, the outside point of esch shingle will have a tendency to droop down. The bigger the overhang, the faster it will generally start happening. On a 3 tab shingle, a key line in that area greatly weakens it anyway. The tendency for each outer top corner to start bending does is greatly improved upon with the starter shingle. This effect applies to arc shingles as well. Arcs are a two piece design, laminates in the center horizontally, and the nail line is supposed to go through both halves of the shingle. This laminated line is not even an inch wide, and where the top layer has the fake "shake" laminate pard on the exposed part of each shingle, well those areas of the bottom exposed part of the shingle are stronger than the areas that don't have the fake shake part. Each shingle has the fake shake piece about 5 or six times per shingle. The sizes vary, or it would show noticeable paterns. anyway, the spaces between the fake raised shake par of the shingle are weaker, because they only have the area with the nail line laminated. If that area falls at the edge of a roof where the rake line is cut, it can have a tendency to separateevery bow and then, making both halves weaker, and prone to droop more. It's usually the installer not caring enough in really hot or really cold weather that messed most stuff up that can be blamed on the roofer. Mfg defects in materials are more often than not noticed by installer, and shingle discarded, but not always. Twice over this past summer I found GAF HDZ shingles with horizontal slits above the laminate line that leaked and had me sent out to the job to figure out what was wrong, and one ended up being on the flat of a low pitched roof that tied into the main house roof valley. Andd it was dead ass heat on both the install as well as the diagnosis. diagnosis had an additional problem, they had already tried to fv the problem before sending me over, and all shingles in that area were caulkedwith HP1 caulk, which is almost the strongest caulk I have ever seen. It changed the tool kit for diagnosing leaks, and now I keep a couple margin trowels with my kit with either edge ground down to a blace and filed for real sharp. One is a right and one is a left, and both have an untouched edge I can hit and pust on by hand.