How To Cut, Build, And Hang A Set Of Basic Double Doors For Your Shed Project- Part 2 

I appreciate the comment. There are far, far more people who comment just to be jerks than there are to try to make me actually want to spend the time doing this.

I appreciate the comment.

They really aren't hard. I do them without the template half the time anyway because it'll be in storage which is 20 minutes the wrong direction from the new job to do. The measurement from bottom of door to bottom of the center horizontal piece of trim is 34". I've memorized that measurement now that I build them freelance style so much. They ain't nothin' to build, once you see how to do it with the measurements. This is the one thing other carpenters ask me about, or want to see me do. I've already gone through all the mess-ups it takes to not mess up anymore. A mess-up is good for a $28 sheet and ride back to the store loss, minimum, which is why the center horizontal board is center rather than offset lower. That allows me to build the door backwards, tear all the trim back off, and rebuild without loss of anything except time.

Thanks for the comment. It really is great to see some people say something nice. The amount of people who comment, just to say something bad and have their name attached to it, is freakin unbelievable.

Yes, I do that sometimes. It certainly is better, but it also costs. This video has the most basic set of doors I build for an 8 foot peak height shed.

Thank you buddy, and thanks again for the great video.

The recession didn't want me to drive a rollback and scrap junk cars all day in late 08, and after a couple months of trying to find anything, knowing entire crews of framers, cornice crews, siders, roofers, and replacement window guys were without work, and me not being in those for about a decade from being burned out on construction and driving trucks for 10 years, all I had was repair work, or find jobs that incorporate several trades, which is always a place to get in somewhere when one price can cover everything and 3 separate tradesmen can be eliminated. The doors were one of the hardest things to learn, and I had to dial in these measurements, just like any other measurement. The siding laps are a learning curve too. But the hardest thing to understand was why the roof sheeting didn't want to line up on the second half of the roof, and that is because one corner of the shed sank a little bit during construction. Learn to make bowed lumber work to your advantage, most bowed joises in center of shed, and most bowed plates used as top plates with crowns facing inside the shed. Face them out, and your roof will already have a swaying ridge because there are no ceiling joists holding walls certain distance apart in center of the shed, and gravity hurts that situation, so crown top plates in, and use bowed lumber for them to offset those problems. Have a great Xmas!

Great questions, both of which I have not been asked before. Second question first, because it's easy. It's always better to both prime and pre-paint anything on the exterior prior to assembly/ building. Why I did not is based on the deals I make, which are all craigslist deals based upon price and the ability to prove I do clock jobs consistently and have both start to finish images as well as references . That gets me jobs in a somewhat shady atmosphere, where I can show I consistently look clean and get jobs done to a satisfactory level, which is also expected because I have 10 years worth of pretty much just shed pics to show potential customers. As far as the header boards being different than the center and lower ones, it's standard build practices. You will see that pattern on lots of things, especially older skool stuff, because it protects the ends of the boards from absorbing water from the top side, which wood does pretty well from the ends of linear boards. I didn't say pretty good because it's never good. 45 degree cuts on corners doesn't really help, because the boards go to a point, and the point rots away fast up at the top. If you ever look at sheds as you drive around, look at what goes bad on them. the two lower horizontals of the doors go bad at the upper corners, hence the reason why pre-priming and painting ALL parts of the door and it's trim IS the smart way to go. I just don't have the time to play that game in the arena I play in. For myself, I would make the time. Also, the horizontal board that covers the laps between the sidings goes bad, which is why i don't put those on. There are two ways to do those laps; either lapping gable siding over lower shed siding, or using a Z Bar flashing. I go for the Z bar because it costs a few dollar per 10 foot stick, with no weird furring strips or exterior trim cuts/ notches. I still omit the horizontal trim board to cover it up though. You'll see why when you start looking at every shed that has those pieces of trim installed on them. It's just a piece of wood that causes the siding to rot away due to water getting behind it and it never being dry.

Thank you very much for your answer, very helpful

Ya, I know it's hard top hear sometimes. There is a real learning curve for doing videos for RU-vid, at least for me there is. Like the long 30 some part video on the entire shed, where I had my daughter holding the camera. It was probably a really, really bad idea for me to keep telling her I didn't want my face in the video. At one point, she said "Dad, it's really hard to try to take a video without having you in it". I think she was right. The door hardware I use comes from Shedwindowsandmore. They have a dotcom site by that name, as well as an ebay store by that name. I'm not loyal to them as a company. Search shed hardware and you'll find the same basic hardware on the internet and at ebay. I'm sure it'll be at amazon as well. Also, if at ebay, at their store look for the standard double door hardware kit. It's a way better deal than what you would get at home depot locally, which is better suited than what I can get at lowes locally. At ebay, you can upgrade from 4 to 5 inch hinges at no additional cost as well. Big difference in appearance later on. And again, I always appreciate comments that aren't from some drunk guy being sarcastic. To date, I've never had a female post any derogatory comments like dudes do. Think about that for a minute you guys out there who read this reply.

I think all pin nails and narrow crown staples only come in galvanized and possibly stainless. By pin nails, I mean any straight finish nails, regardless of whether they are 16, 18, or 22 gauge. I think only the angled finish nails, meaning the 15 gauge nails, come in both galvanized and ungalvanized, the same as medium and wide crown staples. Thanks for the nice comment. I deal with a lot of hateful comments here on youtube.

Thanks for the info! I'm not sure why there's so much rudeness on RU-vid and I literally cringe when I see it aimed at people who take the time and trouble to post videos such as these. Cheers.

When attaching door trim, I align the hinge side of the underlap door, and the overlap side of the overlap door, and align the bottom of the doors. The tops of the doors have a lap that is intentional, and the other sides of the doors don't matter. In a normal configuration, the the right side door has the handle because most people are right handed, and so I install for that. In that configuration, the left side of each door will be the side you use for alignment. Thanks for the comment, and I and have a great day.

@@cheapshedkits Thank so much for the quick reply ~!...

I typically use 2" straight 16 gauge finish nails. The trim isn't a regular 1x4. It's what is called a "premium furring strip". Lowes item number 4510. It costs like $ per board, whereas the 1x4 off of the aisle with all the 1 by and trim is around $5 per board. The trim boards I use are the same ones that come on their shed kits.

cheapshedkits thanks buddy. Building a similar shed with the lpsmart side. Think I could use 2inch screws on the door. No nail gun for me.

OK, my bad. I didn't know it was the door video I was replying to. The 2 inch nails are for the trim that goes around the doors only, as well as the rest of the trim on the shed. For building the doors, you will want a 7/8" fastener. The narrow crown stapler is the best way to do it, but when I started building, and when the stapler was broken or forgotten, I used 1" straight finish nails, angling them enough so that they wouldn't come out the front of the trim. Screws would be better than the nails. Just be careful and test the length out before you build the whole door with the tips of the screws sticking out. I've had to cut racks of nails down with a grinder with a cut wheel at times to come up with a suitable length fastener.

Those Lowes 4510 boards are what you used on the front of the door and also the trim?

Very light; as light as is even possible really. I just searched the weight of a sheet of 4x8 SmartSide, and the number I got was 43.1 LBS, so I guess one of these doors would weigh less than 21.5 LBS without the trim. The 1x4x8 premium furring strip weighs just under 4 LBS from Home Depot, and each door has slightly under 2.25 of those, so the rough answer, based solely on product weights via internet searches, is about 30 pounds per completed door

I tacked them with an 18 gauge pin gun, one per corner of each door. I should shw the doors being opened back up at the end of the video.It has to have it because I installed hardware .It's just an 18 gauge pin nail in each corner of each door. They break when you bend them back and forth two times

Go make so cookies jesus

That is LP SmartSide. It is at both home depot and lowes, but both places like trying to put it in weird places. Along the back wall, back by the panel saw, etc. You're even better off trying to find it using google as ur search engine in many cases. But it is at both stores. It's the same pre-primes siding that is on nearly all of the sheds they have sitting outside their stores I love it. Floating around in water from hurricane weather, EVERY other sheeting product is done except this stuff. Treated plywoods done due to delamination, regular OSB done due to being twice as thick as should be. This stuff survived and got like 1/16" thicker. Still very useable. It does now have a paint code, too. I think it's two orange stripes. But at checkout, they still have problems with it Make sure you get the sticker off the back of it or take a picture of the barcode on the sticker on the rack you get it off of, or you will likely have delays at checkout at either store. Ten years and now they have a paint stripe code less trhan a year old that still doesn't work lol. I keep a sticker on the inside of the back cover of my cell phone. Take it that seriously.

Thanks! Great idea.

It just holds the doors better. This is already a problematic situation back from the first shed I built. I put a regular padlock hasp on the outside, and those things don't keep the secondary door tight at all. There is always slop in it being fully closed, so I switched over to a locking slide latch for the outside, which holds it much tighter at the top. The secondary interior latch does help that problem. Also, all the double door hardware kits off the internet will include two of the interior slide latches for each set.

Christ, another one of these guys that just drives a keyboard telling about how he would do it, but doesn't actually do it. And don't you worry about my skill level, I designed all the shit I build. No stolen measurements, same basic ass looking sheds usually, but built better and cleaner. You should show us how you would do this, instead of talking like youre the ace and you're the one who designed every last smallest detail about it, when the reality of it is that you're a guy who sits at his computer or phone or whatever, and does not do the tims it takes to make these videos. I design this shit, and don't mind showing other people how to do it themselves. If I drew a full line, it was for a situation that I deemed made it necessary to do so. I do not of cuts with just a small mark to guide me. I don't on all square cut framing that gets cut on the miter saw. Ok, this is a door video. The reason for individual marks and not cutting a stack of the same thing is consistency in size results. The reason for marking all straight cuts is because it will result in far more accurate cut lengths, which is pretty important on the door trim pieces as opposed to say, any of the framing members. My job with this video was to make it so a person who has very limited skills in this field, using these kinds of tools, will be able to watch the video, see how fast and accurate I can make it happen and talk about exactly what is being done, as well as hopefully what to be aware of that I have messed up on in the last, and hopefully end up being 100,% successful with me guiding them through the process, in the way that i either don't myself, or in the way i want to show them how to do it so thea will be succsssful in just a couplle hours to a half a day, and still have half the day left to drink a beer kr spend time with the wife and children, kr hell, argue with his wufe abd kick the cat abd the dig around if thats what wloats their boat for all I care, but the only part i csre about is getting it done as quickly and painless as possible without having to do anything a second time. It doesn't matter how you want to do it to go faster. By all means, do that if you are capable, but dont make yourself believe that the way i show someone who has no experience at this how to do it and be successful at it the very first tjmd, and the way i do zhit when i just wanna do the job abd fo home as quickly as possible, are two diffeeent ways if doing it. I assure you, I designed every shed I built, and nobody knows them like me, meaning you as well. I got this shed door video covered just fine. You should try diving into doing s RU-vid video some time. You'll learn a lot more new shit that way than you can ever try to teach to me. As a matter of fact, it was quite the learning curve for me, but I wasn't afraid to do it. Now it's your turn to not fear the new and unknown and show us what you can make happen with your own video

Also, just noticed it was for the 1x6 with the bevel, which the mounting location is dictated by the deck boards first. Apparently, you haven't run into problems associated with not making sure this part is right, or the fact that the mark is close to two inches from the top of the floor, which makes that method considerably more iffy using that method. There's a ton of nails in the band board, the 2x6 is rarely straight too, and we want the doors pretty close to the decking boards. It doesn't beat down with a sledge hammer later, and when it ends up too tight, the door won't close, and then it comes down to grinding an angle out of the back of the door sheeting in order to make it close all the way. A better method would be to use a tape measure holding whatever measurement on the top of the floor, with a pencil at zero. That can be good for a splinter, especially if it's OSB on the deck.. what this does not take into consideration is joist crown. Both of those methods follow the joist crown. The doors, however, do not follow the joist crown. That's the reason for marking the center separately. The doors will close on the hinge sides but not in the center if joist crown is too much and we follow it's arc, and I will still be grinding out the doors more in the center than at the hinge sides. Also, that's assuming things are imperfect in that direction, which is the usual way it would end up, but not set in stone.. anything could end up slightly off in some way. I consider it a necessity to do it the way I do it, as the other faster ways are just not accurate enough every time consistently.

56" for the actual doors, 54" for the framing. Set the header 69 1/2" off the floor. If it's a bearing wall with a 2x4 floor plate, cut the jacks 68" so that the header ends up at 69 1/2" off the floor, and cut the header 57" long, which allows for the 1 1/2" to sit on each jack. On a gable wall, I use a 56" header with gussets holding the header to the studs/ jacks. On a bearing wall, I usually build the header out of two 2x4's with either 7/16" OSB or a scrap piece of the 3/8" siding sandwiched between the 2x4's. I'm planning on turning all my designs over in the next year for people to use for free. The other video, the one with like 34 parts, was just a test run of doing that. My daughter held the camera, and for some reason I told her to keep my face out of the video. Not the best idea for a video. Oh well, I've learned a lot, and it was a real learning curve for me. This door video just happened because I had a guy there and only had the doors and roof to do on an 8x8x8 shed, so i knew i could burn up some time and still finish.

?? I simply must ask, was that supposed to be spam and you forgot the link?

Another freakin' idiot with stupid ass comments again I see. Dude, this shit pays $400 and better per day in cash. Speed is more important to me than babying the equipment. You should see how I treat the tools when I'm pissed off. I swear, what a little bitch statement that you went out of your dumbass way to post.

What a useless comment!

@@cheapshedkits Yeh but you must spend a fortune on anger management therapy?

@@typhoontim125 i do. Both alcohol and nail guns are rather pricey. Actually, I've taken a more normal job working for someone else and all I pretty much do is leak detection and repairs for a roofing company.

@@priayief You're not so hot at math, are ya? At some point on any income level, certain things are done to either streamline productivity, with inherent costs expected, or not done, with daily productivity suffering the loss instead. every individual in control of that aspect of income/ productivity management thinks differently, and will make decisions differently. Neither one was ever the intended target of youtube comments to begin with, but in this environment, it's not just you but thousands of others like you that i get to deal with who have the same basic agenda as you as the basis of their comment. if you would just comment on the usefulness of what the video was intended to show you, things on my end would be much easier. But ya'll wont, and for me, things aren't.