We specialize in Datsun Z Cars from 1970-1983 and provide services and products that are either hard to find, or cannot be found anywhere else. This is our page for showing off products and the cars we build.
www.godzillaraceworks.com
Check us out on facebook and instagram - (GodzillaRaceworks)
So for the AEM gauge it has the positive White output wire and a negative Brown output wire. Which one do I use to plug into the wideband wire on the harness? And what do I do with the other one?
We spoke with John over at LSpec late last week, he is hoping to have all of the cylinder heads, including your's ready to head back this way by end of this week, early next week. Last piece of the puzzle!
glad i found your channel/shop. looks like ya'll are real Z experts. what do you think the chances are of getting a 240-280Z set up to fit someone whose 6'5 300 lbs? i don't have any Z cars around me to sit in. id start shopping for one if i knew i could fit.
We actually built a 280z 2+2 which has far more leg and height room than the standard coupe. That customer was very tall, and really valued the additional room. That build can be found here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OwCSeQN5I8o.htmlsi=cxcsuMJ3J8mRGDAs
This product and all e-commerce Lexus support has been discontinued by our company. See why here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6A9bijybLQU.htmlsi=TE8iDpNtyQ2Ya-iC&t=1881
Love all the work you do. I just got an 87 280z black pearl edition but don’t know how I want to build it everybody keeps telling me to leave it as it is, but I want to do something different. What are your thoughts?
@GodzillaRaceworks Any suggestions for diff ratio for a spirited driver and GT/cruiser (not a race or track car)? I'm thinking 3.54 (maybe 3.9 at most). Looking to hwy cruise nicely on long trips around 75mph give or take. Playing with online calculators but would love to hear actual experience with this transmission in a car. Decently built L28 going in.
One of our technicians owns the Blue turbo 280z that we used for development, he has a 3.5 ratio and at 80mph his crusing RPMs are roughly 2500-3000 rpms. If you're going to be running a naturally aspirated setup, it may like the 3.9 better depending on the kind of driving you're doing. 3.5 is perfect for a turbo setup, where as 3.9 would be too quick through the gears to build boost effectively in the lower gears.
@GodzillaRaceworks - is it a requirement to make sure timing is set to TDC before setting up the ecu with the information provided in the instructions for the base tune? According 280zx manual, timing is supposed to be somewhere around 20° BTDC +/- 3°. or does this not matter because it will be controlled by the ecu and i can just change it through the tunerstudio?
Regarding the LS in my Z, I actually haven't had it dyno'd so not sure exactly how much it makes but it should be right around 400whp based on all the research I've done and my tuner's opinion. My motor is a true LS1 though so 5.7l instead of a 5.3l and I have a couple bolt ons as well as a sizable cam. My honest guess as to the power you could get out of a cammed 5.3 LS motor is somewhere in the 350-380whp range but that is just an educated guess, either way it will be more than enough for the street.
We're hoping within the next few weeks, ideally we only have to make the video once haha, so it takes a little bit to proof everything and make sure we didn't leave anything out.
@@GodzillaRaceworks Anything S30 related ill take. I'm trying to get my 260z done so i need all the motivation i can get. I'm running a few of your products and its great!
@10:58 this is worng just so you dont have to do it twice like i am and throw cd009 around use the turbo 280zx throw out barring and collar along with the 280z slave cylinder to have a solid pedal feel
So we're all pretty much self taught in the shop as far as welding goes, to my understanding I've only seen peening done with stick welding and steel, I've never seen it or heard of it being done on aluminum, but to answer your question, no we did not. I don't think it would have helped though, there just wasn't enough good parent material in there when we started repairing it the first time, and a lot of the "good metal" that could have been welded to was deeper in the bore and effectively out of position for a good weld. Unfortunately we can't save them all.
@@GodzillaRaceworks thanks for the response, we're all in the process of learning something new to hone our skills. It's worth looking into, based on some quick searches it would be beneficial to do your initial pass, peen to compact the metal, then take another pass with the welder to prevent porosity/cracks. Keep the posts up, I especially enjoy the S30 content.
Because it sounded terrible. Like, absolutely terrible. The X pipes don't necessarily remove drone, at least not as much as the resonator, but it evens out the pulses which can cause drone. The bottle resonators and the mufflers made the biggest difference. The drone with the factory mufflers and all OE resonators deleted was borderline unmanageable
Call me a slight n63 expert. I can hear your timing chain guides louder than your exhaust. This engine is on its last leg. I built enough n63 to tell lol.
The physical install would be the same, yes. We just wouldn't be able to offer any hoses or brackets, but you can buy just the HVAC box and the controller from us Godzillaraceworks.com/hvac
It's an ICT billet one, requires drilling and tapping an additional hole in the engine block See here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MxuqXEBAcKc.htmlsi=oQMLfwSFkGJgHvDI&t=975
