RFW is the front axle could be wiring issues jack it up and see if the front diff is locked by turning the front tyres the tail shaft will turn free if it's not locked in the front diff,you need to work this part out first. if it is the air operated part or vac it is called could be just a hose that has a hole in it or seized or a bad solenoid. You need to do a check list to pin point the problem check fuses to before anything.
In the instructions it says to rotate till it can't anymore then tighten down (what you do at 11:30), and when you take it out the faces should line up with two plastic lines on the outside. I can never get it to line up, it's always over rotated by about the same amount (similar to 9:50). I guess it doesn't matter that much?
208 cc 4 stroke motor got a cast iron sleeve this was a option 160cc 2 stroke power torq or the 208cc 4 stroke motor so the bloke who bought it brand new was saying.
Just looked it up, appears to be a Tecumseh engine, which sort of makes sense as Victa were using those during that era before the widespread use of the Briggs engines.@@randomthingsarebest1473
They where of ebay couple years ago this was. you need to make sure you get correct year etc to get correct parts for your car. They are not all the same. www.ebay.com.au/itm/196044183180 shop around to get the best deals mate.
check all ya air lines in the front of the diff. could have a hole rubbed threw and a air leak and that's why it not locking the front diff. 2 solenoids under the bonnet check them and work ya way down also clean the plug connectors.
excellent video but i feel that i can contribute a tip... if you cool it with oil instead of water, your replacement piece will be harder... not what you want in some cases, but if you are going through a lot of these, you might get away with using harder steel and transferring a bit more shock down the crankshaft to lower the frequency of replacement
of course, harder steel is a bitch to file down, and would increase the risk of major engine damage if its bend/shear point exceeds the strength of the crankshaft components
The purpose of a woodruff key is to be softer metal than the shaft in order to shear in case of slippage. This way in case of failure you replace it and you are good to go again. If it is harder than the shaft or the same hardness, it will damage the socket irreparably and then you will have to replace the camshaft. The whole concept is designed with the cost of replacement parts in mind and not smartassness.
When stuff is worn, you can only do so much. When the victa was new they had wobbles. My mother got a brand new one and all 4 wobbled. it's just a part that wears more then anywhere.
Great video mate and good job. I would suggest using grease on your bolts before you replace them and assembly lube when putting the pump and impeller back together. All the fasteners should be imperial not metric as these are American made motors. Threads UNC being aluminum.
that pinhole in the water pump housing is a pressure relief for low speed operation. if its blocked absolutely nothing will happen accept increase the water pressure and MAYBE unseat the thermostat , making it overcool which is bad but not relevant at high speed. havent worked on one of these in ages though forgot if the t stat actually unseats at high speed on a spring, or it just sits there wide open
That's retarded. Get on the roof and do it right. Then you can close the stove door and put a bucket in it. And you're clearly burning wet wood with the amount of creosote that came out. You'll have a flue fire eventually that won't end well.
19 years old in 1986 and i just bought my 1st road legal dirtbike off my boss , it was a 1983 KDX500 air cooled with a disc brake up front and a compliance plate ,he bought it off the showroom floor from a dealership in Ferntree Gully ,he intended to trail ride it and occasionaly ride it into work on a sunny day ,he blew he knee out on the footy field and $1500 bought me a rocketship ,before everyone jumps up and down it was a KX500 but built to be an enduro bike and rebranded KDX through Kawasaki Australia as it had lights indicators and a 3 foot long silencer ,two copper headgaskets kept the comp down and stopped it detonating too,very rare bike theses days
I had a 1982 Suzuki RM465 for 8 years from 1982 to 1990, and it would start 2nd kick cold every time, and 1st kick warm. Best bike I ever had, all I did was put a new top end on it every winter and never had one problem with it in 8 years.
@@randomthingsarebest1473 Two of my friends had the 1980 Yamaha IT 400 and the 1980 Kawasaki KDX 400. We all used to ride at a big gravel pit in Illinois, and I used to smoke both of them on the Suzuki RM465, after 10 minutes of riding I had to pull over and wait for them to catch up. It was a beast, it would damn near pull your arms out of the sockets, and it was hard to keep the front wheel on the ground. I put a Wiseco piston, boysen reeds, and a White Brothers works air box on it, and all that turned it into a monster. It was so fast I almost killed myself on it a few times, but it was so fun to ride it was crazy.
I had a 93 kx500 and at no point did you get even close to top speed like the title says. You weren’t even close to riding that bike to its potential. It’s too much bike for you.. and most people..
