Hello All, Just a dude enjoying this rollercoaster ride called life. Subscribe if you like, got more videos coming up on tech. life, philosophy, and neuroscience. Take care.
Worked good.. 99% of us just dont want the nut not to seize...so this is a good fix.. The brush of course always break off when anti gets stiff. So i stick a acid brush though it ( Available at harbor freight,36 for a couple of bucks) And secure with O rings on both sides of lid... As the acid brush is twice as long as the original,one can get to all the product
i have the fadh88a red handled wrench made in spain and also newer spanish made wide mouthed comfort grip handle and american made fadh8c, the older spanish one has the snap on logo raised where as the newer ones are stamped , the polishing on the older spanish one is not as good , but opens larger than the new usa version , the usa one has the best polishing but the size markings by the jaws are less legible , the wide mouth spanish one has better tolerances
Got mine off the truck snd took it apart to put a 3/8 compact head kit in it but forget to get the faceplste and now i CANNOT get it back together. The stupid ass gasket for thr face plate is like too big and binds up with i tighten the screws up just enough to where the plate isnt wobbling around
I have a military surplus 1/4" T72 FOD chrome ratchet, and that has FOD stamped on the head above the Snap-On logo, with USA below as usual. Interesting that the cover plate holes are threaded, I might see how much a rebuild kit would be.
Thanks for the vid, I was getting around to doing my brakes and realized my anti-seize bottle was all dried up. I recently dropped off all my old oil but had a half bottle of transmission fluid on hand. Its obviously a light oil and worked perfectly to get it back to a consistency i remember when it was new many years ago.
Nice collection of Canadian made vintage Snap-On tools! I have an interest in this stuff as well. Finding Canadian made Snap-On isn't easy, to say the least. I have quite a collection of US made S-O, but as of now, only have been able to acquire a few Canadian pieces which I have interest in. There is one particular piece I have more interest in, and that is my old 1951' F-71-C, 3/8" ratchet wrench which is in about the same shape as your 1/2" L-710 is. It has seen a good amount of use, but it's still in good working condition. I was still lucky to have acquired it at all, beings it was made in Canada over 70 years ago.👍-J
No it does not cause knock. All the sensor does it detect knock. And when it detects knock it retards the timing until the knock goes away. If it's bad it will show a check engine light as long as your check engine light isn't burnt out. Way to see if the check engine light works is simply turn your key on, without starting the car. It's one of the dash lights that comes on when you turn the key. If it doesn't come on then light is either burnt out or someone removed it.
The reason the lithium ion feels so empty is because it is. They basically put a standard 18650 in their and wired it up their polarity ends. Had they filled that with 2 18650 cells the capacity would double
Those made in Sweden were previously BAHCO, who snap on unfortunately bought out. However, they do seem to continue making BAHCO, which in my opinion is far superior to snap-on .
Video helped a bunch man. Threw mine in a fit of rage and it exploded into a million pieces to my surprise. Never had it with a snap-on one. But you helped me realize I lost my spring and the piece that goes on top of it. Out of pure luck I found them on the shop floor and was able to put this sucker back together. Thanks!
This is my favorite RU-vid tutorial of all time. I was so frustrated while trying to replace my taillight, that I called out in joy at being able to just whack the crap out of my socket wrench.
I just repaired my stinger ds led with the new switch c4 chip and lens and it isn’t nearly as bright as my light was before. I’m extremely disappointed. Almost a waste of the 30 bucks. I’ll probably solder my old led in place using the new switch since that’s what broke
I'm a newer guy, just started lasted at a shop last June. Got a new Cornwell guy back in January of 24 for the first time in like 6 years apparently, had these on sale from 339 to 189.99. It's a nice set, the long metric allens are worth that price alone
Definitely a good socket set in my opinion I haven't had to replace one piece under warranty. 2 haven't returned after borrowed (same as stealing) I got mine on special promotion for 129.99 which was pretty kick ass
Great video! Amazing instructor. No annoying music, clear and to the point! Thank you for the extra tips with where we might face some difficulty (such as lock tabs on connection ports). Thank you for a 5 Star video!
I've been driving a Honda since 1980. It went to bed because of rust and age. I currently own both a 1992 and a 1997 Honda. Over the life of all my cars I've always changed my own oil and frequently I might add... here's the thing, I've never once changed the crush washer and it's never been an issue.
Thanks. I have a can I've had for 50 years and it still has some in it, but it is getting stiff and sticks to the sides. (the old copper type used in papermills)
