“Lap of the World”, in its various guises, is a creative outlet that enables a couple of humans to play with cars, travel together, and meet awesome like-minded people along the way. 2022 will mark our 4th year of turning our adventures into content for RU-vid, and we hope to do so for many more.
-Richard & Liz
"Road Trip, Racetrack, Wrench, Repeat!" Our mission is to drive as many different road courses as possible, experience the tracks, the locales, and the cultures surrounding each and share those with you, our amazing viewers. In between track adventures we work to maintain a humble stable of a nearly 300,000 mile Acura NSX, and new-ish-to-us Lamborghini Gallardo such that either can get us to, from, and around a circuit on any given weekend!
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You could have decluttered the display on Track Addict. I don't use the map or video, and just have it show time and prediction, with speed in the corner because it takes up negligible room.
Has that always been an option, or something more recently added? (Older video, hence question). Good tip either way! This may be one I should revisit amid reviewing other lap timer apps/devices in the future.
@@UltraStunts Yeah, I was for the most part, but was in any gear at WOT from lower RPM. I've done a couple of subsequent videos resolving this. In my case it was a bad aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. However if your car is stock it's likely either the fuel pump resistor, or the pump itself (without knowing anything else anyway). That said definitely do your own diagnostic cycle before dropping the tank in case it's something electrical up/down stream.
@@LapoftheWorld my car is all stock. 37k miles. But has sat a long time with previous owner. I tested it again with the fuel resistor by-pass and with the resistor. My second test was in the evening when it was cooler. The car was at temp but cooler surroundings. I could not reproduce it. Also I was noticing the dip after driving the car for 30-40 min on a fun run. I am going the order a fuel pump while I still can. It will need it eventually. I noticed that you are not using a split pin on the gear changer. What type of pin are you using?
@@UltraStunts Ah, yeah, if it's been sitting probably want the pump, filter and spare a thought for cleaning the tank if you're already going to be in there. Also, not sure what you mean by split pin?
They definitely fall under the category of "if I had any sense"....They're very capable and fun to drive. Obviously do your research and get one built after they addressed the common bore scoring & IMS causes with the Cayman/Boxster.
I use 5w30 Castrol high mileage synthetic in my 99 Tercel the car wasnt drive for 6 years and it brought that engine back healthy as new i shine light in the valve cover and inside is clean
sooo... you're worried about one handed people not looking graceful in the event of a fire? you need to train yourself on using the fire sticks? goddamn i feel sorry for you.
@@D1570R73D Hey boss, the goal here was to get people thinking about carrying an extinguisher, any extinguisher, and then putting a modicum thought into which might be best for their use case. Not a hit piece of trying to be controversial here. 🍻
@@LapoftheWorld well here's your modicum of thought, go look at videos of car fires. the traditional extinguisher you had in this video does not carry enough suppressant to deal with many of the fires people have at the track. not only that, but the chemicals will ruin your car parts. if your goal was simply to get people to keep an extinguisher in the car, the title would have said that, and the video wouldn't have been entirely about why you don't want to use the sticks.
Halon/Halotron (what I have) isn't the same as dry chemical (the kind you get at the hardware store, which will F stuff up if it gets in electronics). Halotron is a gas, it doesn't stick around much after the job's done. It doesn't need to put the fire all the way out, it needs to give me time to get out of the car. Anything after that's a bonus and insurance's problem. Anyway, you've clearly put some thought into it, so "mission accomplished".
I was just about to say Road America was faster... but you made a great argument proving why it wasn't. Great video on a lost track thanks for sharing.
I remember it well. My cousin was a part-owner (John Marshall). I went there often, for the short time it was in existence. It was my first experience with a road course layout. Great fun. Later, when I moved to northern Illinois, I spent many summer weekends at Road America.
@productreviewspecialist There was a TSB (CT.08.04 "marking of L140 dipstick,") on some dipsticks that were mis-marked. Assuming it's been done correctly you'd trust the lower two holes.
I did this track with the Xtreme xperience and oh my goodness is this track THRILLING. I personally enjoy it because it really really gives you the driver the experience In the handling of a vehicle. I drove the Porsche 911 Gt3 rs. It was an experience I'll never forget.
@@13EnderCreeper Sounds like a blast. Of their usual choices (I've driven with them before at a different track) the GT3 was probably the ideal pick for PVR. Some of the Italians can have really long gear ratios and some understeer bias that might hamper the fun on a circuit this twisty.
Do you know what's the official hour value for replacing the timing belt and water pump on a first generation NSX, with the engine in the car? I know it could vary wildly in actual practice, but is there an official "book value" for the hours that is should take for getting an estimate?
The 'Prime forum suggests between 5 and 7hrs of "book time". That said, at the end of this series of videos I cover costs. The TL/DW is probably between $2500 and ,$4k depending on what else you opt to do while the car is apart. If they are > 10yrs old, changing coolant hoses is advisable. A valve adjustment should happen in there somewhere, and it's a good time to install a harmonic balancer shield if the car didn't already have one (aftermarket must-have 'insurance' part).
@@LapoftheWorld Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated. I've heard so many crazy prices and hours, even on Prime, but I knew I could get a proper estimate from you.
@@LapoftheWorld One day I'll get there but until then I'll have my 2004 Mazda 6 xD. I can barley afford gas now I cant imagine how much gas that thing can chug🤑
@@productreviewspecialist 07L121109 is the Lambo part number. Honestly the correct diameter heater hose or silicone hose might be better long term, but that part will be the original on an '04.
@@productreviewspecialist I don't know if I'd even give it that much credit. I think the sheathing is for heat more than pressure reinforcement. The hose itself is relatively thin wall. Not formed.
@@productreviewspecialist also there are 3 or so other similar hoses that would be good at the same time. Search my channel for "hose" and you'll find the follow up video.
Funny I saw this video. The previous owner had passenger axle replaced or repaired and that high spot is aligned on both ends, no wonder I have a vibration. I guess is time to do what you did or just get a new one. Do you need to take out the wheel bearing to get the driveshaft out?
@@LaurenDaddy No, strictly speaking you don't need to remove the bearing assembly from the knuckle. The axle just splines into the hub which, in turn, is pressed into the bearing. Just remember to not follow the manual with respect to undoing a ball joint. Instead just unhook the LCA on the chassis side and swing stuff up that way. The axles are pretty robust so just cleaning and re-greasing as you put it back together should be fine....new boots ofc. too.
For some reason at Putnam Park the app will not let me see lap times. It even put the info it did collect in route instead of track. Really disappointed and thinking about sending it back
@@noyoucanthavemyhandle Bummer! So far it's recognized everywhere I've taken it. That said, I've had beacon width challenges with other apps/devices such that they basically never registered me crossing start/finish so a session just looked like a weird single stream. Unsure if there's a beacon width setting in there, but you could test with the custom track feature in a parking lot or something to test the S/F line width sensitivity?
I have a 370z sport pkg 6MT with a significantly lightened unsprung mass and stiffer anti-roll bars. The car handles very well but I now want to corner balance it and optimize the damping on both compression and extension for body pitch and roll and for wheel dynamics. The KW V3 is obviously a very good quality damper and is available for my car but it is only a two-way, having only low-speed compression and extension but no high-speed damping adjustment. I would need to get a KW V4 but it is not available for my car. I'm looking at probably getting a set of Feal 3-way coil overs for my Z, the only drawback being their higher cost.
OOF. Other than checking the mating surface on the rear cover plate to see if there's some flaw there if it's not the seal itself. I guess the other potentially-dumb question is how sure are you it's the RMS now? Any chance it's coming from higher up? Not sure I can think off-hand of any oil fittings above that for engine oil. Anything from the filter pedestal or that pipe usually leaks down the front.
what about the PCV valve? I heard that if the PCV valve gets clogged on these cars...that you can develop a rear main seal oil leak. Is that true and where is the PCV located?
I had to learn something new to answer this, so thanks. The Gallardo doesn't have a monolithic "PCV valve", but rather a system of passive tubes from the top of the dry sump oil tank into the intake track via some "calibrated orifices". In theory disconnection or obstruction there-of should throw a P0507 code. Still, with some potentially sensitive opening subject to oil vapor, it's probably worth inspecting. This was a timely comment as we hope to have more updates soon.
This is how I’d have done it too, bagging and tagging, everything organized. I look forward to the day I can have one of these dream driving machines. It’s been my dream car since I was a teen in the 90s and now I can finally afford one. Soon!
When are you going to finish the 240 instead of wasting you time on Italian junk😂.... you'll save money and get a classic back on the road at the same time
@@richardseaton5708 Oh, trust me, I feel almost ashamed at how cheap basic maintenance parts are for those Z cars / L motors. I said a while ago I'd tackle it once the mid engined siblings were both in good shape, we've just never gotten there. I haven't forgotten about it though.
That video has been on my list to make since ~2019. However I feel the need to make sure the Gallardo is actually running like it's supposed to before I draw any hard lines. Just driving around town, the NSX is better at being a car in-general. The Gallardo, while not really hard to drive, definitely isn't as intuitive / user friendly. That said, because the NSX is so chill, the Gallardo is more of an "event" to get in and go for a short drive. For longer runs / roadtrips, NSX all day every day. They both have some similar "challenges" with too-long lower gear ratios (for the early Gallardos and NA1 5spd NSX) which can make enjoying them on public roads occasionally difficult within the bounds of legality.
@@LapoftheWorld Thank you I asked because last year I nearly bought a Gallardo but could only afford the cheapest ones available which stopped me going for it. The land next door was put up for sale and I had to buy that with no hesitation. Now Im looking at the cheapest NSX cars for sale haha.
@@DiamondMounter I can definitely say that the cheapest NSX will be less trouble than the cheapest Gallardo, lol. Both our NSX and Gallardo were the cheapest clean title (and for the Gallardo, had to be gated) examples at their respective times of purchase, lol.
I can think of one potential advantage of a solid-state extinguisher over a pressurized tank type, and I will freely admit it's an Extremely Unlikely scenario: If you wad your car up severely to the point where a stray piece of the car's architecture punctures the halotron cylinder.... Well.... Let's just say I've seen the results of a pressurized-gas cylinder rupturing before, and it sho'nuff ain't pretty. Of course, at that point perhaps fire suppression is the least of your worries, but I'd sure hate to be strapped into a wadded-up Lambo when the bomb on the floor next to my legs went off.
I just did this course last weekend. I was instructed not to cross or take my hands off the steering on the last two turns, and to instead move the over hand to the opposite hand and then reverse to get back to 9 and 3 by the time you are pointed straight on the front straight.
Definitely a situation of, "Do as your instructor says and not as that guy on the internet, with his bad habits, does". 😅 I autocrossed for years, and with the extra-slow steering rack on the NSX, it's always just been a "by any means necessary" proposition, lol. 9-3 is ideal, but the over arching goal is to maintain control of the wheel at all times and allow yourself to recover any unanticipated angles.
@@nsxspdfreak Yeah, not a hard job. I didn't even remove it from the car. I've seen some 3rd party diaphragms for these which does kinda suggest they tend to need attention.
The originals were also spal, just a different part number that doesn't exist outside of the Lamborghini catalog (va01-ap14 66a). I suspect the smaller motor was maybe a weight savings effort, but I can't imagine the new ones being any less efficient air-flow wise. I've had the car on a track in mid-summer (US Southeast) since doing this and didn't have any coolant temp issues.
This one is an Insta360 1X on an Inst360 pole that's attached to a 6" Manfrotto suction clamp, with a secondary I think Neewer double cup clamp as a stiffener (to reduce bounce). Mount-wise, the key is one mount to screw the pole to, and a second to brace the pole vertically via clamp.
