Following up: So far so good on car behavior. We haven't had it back to the track, but the behavior hasn't re-surfaced on long drives as it was before. One pitfall I've found: I may have wired the fuel floats backwards, so pay attention to the pin order if you do yours (as I 100% connected them in the same color configuration on the float side, but didn't see what went where on the plug side). More to come on that.
Another informative video. I’ve looked into the fuel pumps. It looks like the 8L0919051H/J/N all show different fuel flow rates / base pressure. Can’t seem to find a spec on factory G other than what Delphi lists for the H. I know all the housings are the same. But I think the actual pumps may be different flow rates. The N is for a 1.8TT. I can only imagine it would need significantly less flow than a 5.0 v10, no? Knocking out a laundry list of issues on my new to me G. Pumps are on that list. Tempted to go with just a generic pair from RA. (Spectra etc list one under the N part number). Just worried about running out of fuel on the big end if they are indeed lesser pumps.
Yeah, I'd err or more out of the pump, the regulator should knock it down as needed. So far I haven't had an issue with these, but also haven't been able to really give it a workout yet so TBD.
Nice video. Seems pretty straightforward. Not something I need to do tho. Out of curiosity do you have a video on the fuel filters ? I should have done them when I did my spark plugs but was lazy and concerned dealing with fuel. Especially as they seem so far inside of the body work.
I did do the filters en route to eliminating other possible culprits while diagnosing my issue (They were due anyway). Here's that walk-through: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cQ8e8LAw-fQ.html
Yeah, I won't lie, it's a bit of a PITA. If I have to do that again, I'm building a platform that will bridge the upper sub-frame rails in the engine bay that I can then just lay on to work vs. leaning over the side in some weird contortion the whole time. That or time the job to coincide with a clutch or something where I can just stand closer with the trans out.
So I bought these way early in my ownership on a hunch. Now, digging back through (and even looking at the housings having now fixed my divot with mis-wiring one of the fuel senders) I don't see a part no. on any paperwork, nor stamped anywhere like I do on the original "H" housings. Unsure if it's because these are "white label", knock-offs, or what. That said, installing these did 100% cure the worst of the hot-weather stalling and bucking. I'm still suspicious of the throttle bodies, but it's been a marked improvement such that the car is again at least imminently drivable even in hot weather.
If it's legit running on one bank, I'd start with the relays as you're doing, then electrically test the pumps maybe before throwing money at them if it's not running at-all on one bank. I can't remember, but the injectors may have their own fuse/relays, so good to check those as well. In my case one or both pumps were just getting very weak, so it was firing on all 10, but would break up under certain conditions (worse in hot ambient conditions). Please update if you're able to resolve as I'll be curious if it was the pumps or something else!
@@LapoftheWorld I ordered the fuel pump, question is I have a half tank showing on the gauge will this be an issue? I tried the relay and no luck. Needs pump on that bank.
@@s4orcee Indicated half tank might be ok. Depends on how pessimistic the gauge is. You should know when you pop the feed/return lines if it's going to overflow. Might get a small fountain. Just make sure it's well ventilated when you pop the seal. None will likely get inside the cabin, but if it does overflow it'll just wash down the sides of the tank.
Beautiful video again 👍👍, have a question if you please can elaborate, my bull doesn’t stay at 2000 rpm to check the oil level, it hunts up and down, but it’s fine at about 2500 rpm, any suggestions? If you please. Thank you.
Potentially a fueling issue but hard to say. Best case it could be something like an O2 sensor worst case would probably be one of the throttle bodies starting to go. Are you getting any check engine codes?
Yeah, that's a hard one. I will say that the issues I've been chasing have never thrown a code (not one directly related anyway, I occasionally see an O2 sensor code, but I'm told that's normal with high flow cats).
Hey Richard, may I ask how many miles your G has? I just got one recently and it seems a little worrying how many potential problems that can happen with this model based on your videos.
It's just over 70,000 miles, so on the higher end. That and it was 100% a basket case when we bought it, so not a representative case when compared to a ~30k car with extensive maintenance records, etc. Some stuff like the coolant hoses may still need to be addressed as those are more time dependent than mileage dependent, but fuel pumps, definitely more of a mileage thing.
So far so good on the control arms, but definitely under observation given the known wear rate there. Something I may do preventatively before doing many more track days.
@@LapoftheWorld Im getting a few things too, i get hesitation when accelerating at low rpm, do you think its the fuel system? It bucks and its a manual transmission
@@danielelim8276 Yeah, hesitation and bucking that's worse when it's hot / after the car is warmed up. Takes seemingly forever to get into the power when you step on it under 3krpm. That's what I've been chasing. I've put another 50-100 miles on the car since doing the fuel pumps and that seems to have solved it. I hesitate to give it a fully clean bill of health until we repeat the experiment on a track but it's promising at this point.
