Jake von Slatt is a maker, tinkerer, and all around techno dilettante living and creating just outside of Boston, Massachusetts. Jake is interested in the blending of 19th century aesthetics and technology with the modern world and showcases projects of that ilk on his website at steampunkworkshop.com. While he eschews the temptation to rigidly define the term "Steampunk," he does know that it has something to do with the intersection of technology and romance.
VERY hard to find. I own three 'tri-core' types of varying sizes, with the largest at about 1kVa. I've been actively looking for a large unit (10kVa+) to control a utility pole transformer for a giant tesla coil for years. It really is like looking for a literal needle in a haystack. The few people who have them usually end up scrapping them or incorrectly list them as a transformer. The one or two companies that still make them (for use in harsh non-solid state friendly applications) demand outrageous prices for them. Definitely a unicorn find and my favorite magnetic device.
I have this same receiver with the same problem....lol. Going to give the fix a try, thanx for posting and very fine job on the video. Very easy to listen and follow. +++
Brilliant rock solid design, no sensitive electronic components. Is the biggest difference between an expensive plasma cutter and a cheap one? Why are some plasma cutters so expensive?
I have the 32UR500B monitor, it has been hit, where could I get a compatible screen, could you tell me the compatible model and where to buy it. Thank you
Do you mind me asking what kind of tape that is? CC says kind arc, and Im not familiar with the brand, and a few google searches dont seem to steer me in the right direction. Thanks in advance!
I built a CNC plasma cutter using a cheap cut 50 pilot arc machine but it produces too much emi. I battled the emi issue for quite a while before addressing it on Open Builds forum. By the way open builds control is excellent software for controlling your CNC machine and it's free. They also have Open Builds Cam for converting your files to G-Code and it's also free. A moderator on Open Builds suggested I use a blowback torch plasma cutter rather than my high frequency pilot arc. He said I will find it much more economical to replace the HF plasma cutter than to jump through all the loops with shielding attempts.😮 I have to agree and plan on getting a blowback start plasma cutter. In all of my previous attempts the thing I discovered produced the most interference was the plasma cutter lead itself. It acts as a huge antenna. I was considering making a sleeve for it out of Faraday fabric but decided I would spend the money on a blowback cutter instead. Blowback cutters are generally used most often in environments where sensitive electronics exist. According to the open builds moderator high frequency start is 1970s technology. And while it still works it can be very frustrating in an environment using a cheap arduino-based boards that utilize USB connectivity - such as my MKS DLC 32 v 2.1 control board. I use Grbl.
Mine has a thin vertical blue line right in the middle and I had opened it up and unattached the ribbon then reattached and make sure it is secured but it still show up. I did touch everywhere I can as well. I have the exact monitor that you have....so not sure what happened.
Jake, thanks for sharing the video. Can you tell me exactly how you determined that the thermistor was bad (multimeter setting and where exactly you contacted the red / black multimeter prongs...it was difficult to see in the video) and what is an approx. normal read versus a bad one? I have a fairly new Dewalt 20V 8AH battery that was used lightly approx. 5 times, and I got the flashing yellow light while charging. What was interesting was the yellow light went off when I angled the battery while docked (I kind of pulled the battery away from dock while still inserted if that makes sense...possibly somehow pulled away the TH when charging?) so I maintained that weird angle and the battery went to a full charge without the yellow light. Unfortunately, the battery only works on my flashlight but if I use it on anything requiring more power (router, drills, etc.) it won't work. The battery reads 19.9V when tested. I plan on contacting the church to have an exorcism done on it soon. lol
It’s been some time since I made this video and I don’t remember the answers to your questions. In general the most common thermistors should read about 10K ohms at room temperature, they should not read open or 0 ohms. From your description, I’d look closely at the batteries contacts. My theory is ther is some dirt or corrosion such they can provide enough current for the flashlight but not any more demanding tools. Either that or you just happen to get a battery with a faulty cell.
I got a defective DCB210 from the flea market exactly two weeks ago. Believe it or not, I went there looking for one after one of mine failed since my mower needs two. Yeah, these batteries are notoriously bad. I expected to be salvaging a couple good cells to restore my bad pack. Sure enough, it had one bank for two cells that was only reasoning 1.1v but I used alligator clips to a smart cell charger and it came back up to working voltage. Unfortunately, it still wouldn’t charge on the DeWALT charger and would always trigger the thermal delay. I found there was no continuity between TH and the thermistor. Weirdly, the break appears to be between the two PCBs even though the exposed/bent wire was fine. On a DCB210 the positive wire is welded on both ends so I couldn’t simply desolder it. I masked off everything with kapton and electrical tape to avoid shorting with my iron right under the positive terminal and made a jumper wire, which seems to have fixed everything. I’m still running each bank of cells through a charge/refresh cycle with the smart charger but it seems to be working. :) If the cells that were dangerously undervolted don’t hold up under load then it’s back to Plan A but I did use it to mow the lawn once already.
I am looking for a led flame effect panel that I can wire to a small solar panel for sting lights, so I can have flame effect in a lantern and have it powered by an external solar panel. Where can I get the led fame effect panel that is already wired so I can attach it to the solar panel myself?
Jake, hopefully by now you have gotten your monetization back. if not, i hope you get it back soon. i haven't been following your channel very actively for a while but to let you know, your steampunk stuff was the inspiration for a steampunk computer stand i built a while back and still use to this day.. i really dig your steampunk stuff. it's got a beauty and charm all its own. thanks man!!
Wow, thanks! Anybody know about how long to blow in the propane before hitting the igniter? Looks like about 10 seconds. One way to find out! Plus you don't have ether or brake cleaner eating away at the inside when you're done.
These were common after WWII thanks to enormous quantities of surplus aircraft parts. Generators were sold via magazine adverts well into the 1970s. My HS science teacher built one (he was a WWII Merchant Marine vet later US Navy Commander and even later a tall ship captain in retirement, RIP Steve Masone) for his class to learn from. He even brought auto engines into school because he knew tactile experience is vital to learning.
Sheetcam and a floating Z axes will fix all your problems also USB and EFI doesn't play well together. that MACH3 controller board is for a wood cutter or mill
There’s a later video showing how I fixed the EFI with filter caps and shielding. The unit does have a floating axis but the real fix was an actual pilot arc converter I built in my most recent video. I’m intrigued by Sheetcam, especially now that I see there is a Linux version! Thanks!
I wanted to ask you a question about your CNC cutter. Do you have or plan to install the torch height controller? I already purchased it and many people claim that it will allow the head to keep a constant height above the metal if it is somewhat lighter gauge sheet metal.
I’m looking into a Arduino based open source torch height controller but I’m concerned it may not work well with my torch, I may upgrade it before I try.
Thanks great video. I am building a CNC plasma cutter and I may have overkilled the strength and weight of it. I could probably attach a high-torque motor and use it as a mill.
Hi Jake, Thanks for an excellent and detailed video. I want to make something more powerful to attract moths. (Lepidoptery). I will use a 12v car battery and want it to be as bright as possible. Like a standard 110v Mercury lamp. They are intensely bright. I've tried before but never managed to increase brightness without either popping the flicker led or the transistor. Limited electronics knowledge here, but I really would like to make this work. Any advice greatly appreciated. With regards. Don.
I have a Town and Country minivan and my alternator stopped working I replace alternator but still not working I want to bypass PCM / computer because I just need the battery to charge. I have an external voltage regulator and I can get power from fuse box that turns on when the key is on. It should work but it's not Alternator is new and checked and voltage regulator is new too. But still not charging I am missing something, but I don't know what. Can you help me? I will generously make a donation to you. Thanks
Hello, can you help me, my plasma cutter has a problem with the pilot arc. exactly the same, well, I have Pris 1000 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HQ-drPZvCkc.html It works hard at 2 bar. and this is a problem when cutting metal. I want to send you the whole picture to make it clear. I will be grateful to you for this
Interesting how Pioneer used Elna caps and also some polystyrenes on that board. Pioneer had such a great reputation in that era. Probably still does. Such well made equipment in those days from most of the big guys. I like the vintage chicken head knobs that you put on the tone controls. This video has really helped me with a problem I'm having with a Hafler DH101 that is making noise in one channel. Thank You !
Hi Jake. I just came across you when I googled to see whether it was possible to put real candles in an electric-wired chandelier, and was really impressed with your project & wanted to leave a comment on the page for you but couldn't (phaps because it went back to 2009). Loved reading about stuff you picked up from the dump - even down to old candles (waste not want not etc etc!). Thanks - given me much food for thought (and birthday present ideas for my hubby to consider for me! Ha ha!). Congrats on your retirement! Loved the boat - and loved your hat too! Good luck in your journey to get remonetised! :)
ForFor repairing and to know how this module working I need the schematic circuit diagram part number this module is alternator control unit 269A4985? repairing and to know how this module working I need the schematic
Absolutely agree Jake on the great feeling one gets from helping other enthusiastic diy’ers and what a brilliant job you are doing. Just discovered your channel and loving it. Thank you
Great idea nicely done. I contemplated this then donated the HF machine to my dad instead who will put it to great use chopping up stuff freestyle. They are godsend for removing old exhausts etc
