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Great little video. I place a rag/towel in the intake hose then use compressed air. Straight from Kubota, blow the air filter out and hold it up to a light source. If you can see light through the filter it's good for reuse. Otherwise, replacement is necessary.
Unless I missed it. You didn't explain what you used the dielectric grease for. You mentioned something about using it on the "tip" of the Corro Protec. I assume you meant on the electric connector on the end of the electric anode tube and not the end that goes inside the tank. Is that correct? Getting ready to install one on mine and my son's new Hybrid water heaters. Thanks.
That is going to be super difficult. I have had some luck in my past on brake caliper screws cutting a slot in the top of the screw with a small dremmel cutting wheel and the. and using a manual impact driver with a hammer. I don’t know that you have the access you need to do that though. At any rate, I would start putting a few drops of PV blaster penetrating oil on the bolt every day or 2 to start loosing it up. Best of luck to you.
Unfortunately, I made the same mistake. Thank you for the video. Very helpful in deciding how to proceed. I don't have a air hammer or compressor. Ill be grinding before my re-pour. Ill be using the screw trick for sure. Thanks again!
Such a bummer. Good luck with your fix. One tool I have acquired since this video is a dust shroud with a shop vac attachment for my angle grinder. It really cuts down on dust a lot. If you combine that with a shop vac that takes the paper bags inside, it works out pretty nice. Good luck!
Awesome! Guys that can figure stuff out and then improve on it. Better than a college degree (seriously). I tried to teach him, but my son is getting a degree in some crap or another and is as sharp as a bag of wet hair when it comes to man-stuff like this. Much respect to you and your pops.
You sound just like me. I am an a experienced DIYer who has rebuilt motors, renovated and installed a new kitchen and bathroom before but never used leveler. I researched everything to death but assumed this was a no brainer after watching one or two videos. I just ran into the same problem with pouring floor leveler to level a section of plywood for a shower pan. My dried higher in the center and now my pan sits worse than before. So disheartened and humbled.
Actually if you read through many of the comments, it seems like a lot of people have had success removing the rod without removing that plastic cap at all. So I guess my answer to you is yes, I think you could.
So the place I work at has a Z781i and we got the stuff to change the trans filters. Talked to 2 different dealers and they both said to just drain it, change the filter and fill it up. Neither told me anything about the breather at the top! Hopefully I didnt damage the pumps because I called them both again and I told them the oil wasn't getting into the pumps. They said," just crank it up and work the oil in by the control sticks." Then came to RU-vid and found your video. I really appreciate your time and knowledge shared. A short little plug for where I work is Deer Lake Cabins in Mt. Vernon, Tx. Gice us a call for your next family vacation! We've got side by side rentals with 20 miles of trails, horse back rides( guided) and our Lake side Cabins have their own personal docks for fishing in our stocked Lake! Again thank you so much foe this video!!
Hi may I ask, what was the variation of your failed screed? I have just laid a self levelling compound over 21 sq meters (approx 4x5m) and have a tolerance of about 5mm. Really upset. I was hoping for 1mm.
We just had a plumber out to perform this task and he was able to do the switch without fully removing lid and without unhooking electrical. Great video thanks a lot.
My anode rod is plugged into an outlet on the ceiling. It fell out of the outlet 2 days ago (never happened before). When it fell out, it pulled the positive lead off the anode rod. I had to remove the lid to plug the lead back in, and this comment made me realize I could access it without removing the 120v electric, etc. thanks for the comment, super helpful!
Question! I have a chair that has the vinyl wrapping and plastic rivets. Can I use the poly webbing and screws to replace the broken vinyl straps and rivets? The typical lawn chair webbing screws are too small (8). A diameter of 14 is too big. Anyone know what size screws will fit, or will I just have to do trial and error? Otherwise, I may end up doing a macrame and weaving with paracord. Thanks!
Seems like it would work if you can find the right screw size. Maybe just go to Home Depot and buy one of each size till you find the size that fits. Maybe buy a # 8, 10, and 12. Good luck!
Thank you for the video. I have been running the core protect rod in my Bradford white heat pump tank for several years. So far it has been great. I do recommend that if you have any Pex piping that you run grounds to all branches. I’ve had issues with calcium buildup at my transition location. I didn’t have this before the CoreProtect so I’m assuming that it is related. It is an easy fix especially since I no longer have the smell. At this point I have been very satisfied with the CoreProtect and I have not had any tank issues so I believe that it is working as advertised. As a side note, a few months ago I did have a blinking light on my power supply and the customer service quickly sent me a replacement power supply. I was very pleased with their response.
Thanks for the tips. I will check out both of those items. I have pex, so I’ll look for any calcium, and to be honest, I haven’t looked at the power supply in……um…..however long it’s been since I installed it. 😮
Thanks for the video. So many "experts" have videos on this that makes it look easy but so little can be found on what happens when things go wrong. Also as I just learned earlier, Mapei makes a self level plus that takes 24+ hours just to walk on BUT it's a far better product for a single person, DIY or novice as there's substantially more time to work the product. Mine started to set up after only 7 minutes to where the rake marks never leveled out. Thankfully I had the smart idea to start using a floor scraper after it sat for an hour and hadn't fully cured so it was easy to remove 2/3s of it before I was screwed.
What product did you use initially? I used Customs Leveler RS from HD with a trowel to break the surface tension but ended up with a high spot in the middle of the pour area from front to back. I poured a 32x60 section for a shower pan so it is a small area but it is over new plywood that is screwed down. Not sure how to proceed at this point. Should I grind the high spots down or just try to remove the whole pour with a rotary hammer just like I did to remove the original tile.
Work a flathead screwdriver under the lip of the plastic cap. Lift up as you go. I eventually got a small claw bar under the cap and was able to pry it out in one piece
Did you use the recommended primer and make sure the self-leveling was spread evenly? My guess is no primer and the product/mix was not correct. At least you had good adhesion to the slab. You could have poured a second layer that was more flowable.
I did use the recommended primer which is what made it so hard to chisel up. I followed the directions for the mix, but maybe it was a tiny bit thick. In the end, I did end up pouring a second layer on top (yes I primed again) and it came out pretty good.
Any suggestions for how to fasten polypropylene webbing to a metal frame. I cannot drill into it. And I can't seem to push a screw through it. It is thicker than the nylon webbing. Your video was very helpful, I just don't have the same material.
When the time is right, gonna get my wife to watch this...I've DIY'd the crap out of our home, successfully, but the 1st floor of her condo that we're renting....ouch. Every weekend that passes that we can't rent it is making the DIY method less and less finacnially sound.
Perfect solution! Our same exact set. Had tried securing stretched webbing with cable ties per another video and also tried thin plywood cut to fit. Neither worked well.
I tried the same with the cable ties and that does not work. They just stretched out again very quickly. Thought about doing the plywood route, but thanks for your experience. Going to try this route now.
This video on offers valuable insight into troubleshooting common issues encountered during DIY projects. It's a great example of how perseverance and problem-solving can turn a setback into a successful outcome.
I don’t have any trouble with algae from leaving the clippings in the pond. I do have a very good aerator though (an Airmax PS20) that I run almost all year round, and it really, really helps keep the algae down. Sometimes if the wind is blowing a lot, and all the clippings collect at one side of the pond, I will rake some of them out, but usually, I just leave them.
@@EvolutionDIY Good to know! I'm going to look up some of the Airmax units. My pond is a little less than an acre so maybe I could get by with a smaller model. Thanks so much for your response. Happy Mowing!
Nice video, good job! who ever does the engineering on these Kubota's must be a complete MORON! Has the oil run out from the filter when changing it right onto a sensor.
Wow, I cannot wait for nothing but the facts. So much talking. I am happy to hear that most viewers have the time just watch and watch you talk about well, thank you for your input and would really appreciate your wisdom in a much shorter format.
Why in the world Rheem would place a collar spacer on the hex nut of the anode rod ? It just gives the consumer headache on otherwise an easy job to replace the anode rod.
This was very helpful. I had to take off the crossmember to take off the drain plug. Two huge areas where Kubota dropped the engineering ball was not having the hole in the cross member properly positioned to allow a socket to directly access the drain plugs and that stupid upside down bolt on the belt guard that prevents easy access to the filter. Wouldn’t have cost Kubota a dime to rectify those two items to make it soooo much easier to service the hydros. Oh ….oh …. Move the seat support 1/2” forward to give straight access to those overly tight breather plugs. Shame on Parker for over-torquing those, but having straight access would help a lot. Glad I won’t be needing to do this for another 500 hours.
@@johnruwwe342 I had to hammer a corresponding (I’ll have double check size) torx head socket (get a decent brand) into the plug on one of mine to get it out. Seemed like the torx got a better bite. I also found they came out a little easier when the hydro was warm. So I removed mine after mowing for about 30 minutes. I agree, someone at Parker was over-torquing these by a stupid amount.
A local mechanic dropped by; he hammered bit into breather plug; he freed it up. Thank you Lord. I really thought I had that 8 mm seated properly. Tough area to work and hate having to use breaker bar! All good. Love your content and attention to detail and cleanliness.
Thanks for feedback, in my most recent video about basketball hoop restoration, I really tried to cut the bs and make it more concise. Let me know what you think. As I watch some of my earlier videos, they are really slow paced with a lot of talking.
Interesting 🤔. Looks a bit dangerous. I don’t think I’ll do that way. I’m thinking attach two cheap mowers side by side and mow parallel to the water’s edge. More stable, less likely to cut off a foot or toes.
@@EvolutionDIY 100%. Unfortunately I’ve discovered my radon issue after renovating my basement. So I have to cut out my subfloor to attach the sump dome to the actual concrete slab. May also have to totally replumb my sump outtake. Oh well. I’ll start with sealing the sump and see how my radon level changes then decide on installing a fan.
I just realized you started out saying you were using 2 1/4" webbing, but once you get to the part doing the math to lay out the straps, you say you have 2.5" inches....
Yes you are correct. I wondered if anyone would catch that. The webbing was actually 2 1/4”, and for some reason I was thinking 2 1/2” when I laid the pattern out. In the end it worked out ok, but the gap between each strap was 1/2” wider than my layout showed. In the end, it ended up plenty strong enough, and we are still using these to this day.
I keep thinking about putting this type of cover on, but one time we had a pump failure in the middle of winter when all of the snow melted at once coupled with one of the drainage pipes being backed up / frozen and water was rising rapidly in that corner of the basement. I was able to just rip the dingy silicone/foam cover off quickly and get to the pump so I could make a repair. If I would have had to fiddle with something like this, way more water would have gotten into the basement. Cool video though.
Yeah it does make replacing the pump more difficult. My hope is the backup system would operate long enough for me to pop the cover off, and replace the main pump…which reminds me, I need to buy an extra zoeller pump to keep on my shelf in case of emergency!
I did not, but many others, as you’ll see in the comments called Rheem, and they said no problem it would not void the warranty. I guess I should have checked before I said that.
