I didn’t take any lines off and only replaced the piston seal and the figure 8 seal. Now I turn the truck on it sucks the brake pedal down. What in the world did I do wrong?
@@latexihireI was doing the job with the unit in the truck and didn’t lock the pin into the fork but had it pushed against it instead. Ran it for 100 miles and now the brake pedal goes down when I steer so I guess I’m taking it apart for a third time
Hi, maybe you can assist me, there are 2 possible water pumps for this same model, if before or after 5/2005, how did you find out which one your car had? Thank you in advance
i dont understand why everyone takes the whole thing outta their cars you can leave the part thats attached to the firewall and save you all kinds of trouble by doing so
Hola. Lo que pasa es que no conecta el 4wd Solo esta 4x2 con tracción delantera El botón del bloqueo de diferencial está accionado pero no traccionan las ruedas traseras
How to change the small o rings on the pedal rod without cutting a pedal rod with a grinder??? Rod is pressed in and no way to disassemble that. That's where mine is leaking. Video did not show. My truck is RAM, nearly identical part. Anyone please?
You can pay the $55 to buy the tool (J24569), or you can fabricate your own by cutting a slot for the rod into 1/4" flat stock, then welding angle iron to that about 1" from the slot, drill a hole for a drift into the angle iron centered at about the end of the rod. Now you can put the tool into a vice and use a large drift punch to quickly pry up on the rod, freeing it from the cylinder. To reassemble put a bolt/pin the size of the pedal hole in the rod, line it up on the cylinder, and give it a quick and strong smack with a hammer and it should seat itself again. If you don't put something in the hole for the brake pedal you run the risk of deforming the hole and it will be difficult/impossible to get the rod on the pedal to go through when you reinstall the hydroboost, and it's absolutely miserable to try and make that hole round again.
I rebuilt the hydroboost in my 2001 Mustang GT. I did everything as shown in this vid and took my time making sure everything went back together correctly and that the seals weren’t cut or torn upon reinstalling the piston bore cup. It lasted 2 days before it started leaking profusely from the hydroboost… even worse than before! I opened it back up, which is not an easy task, and went over to see what I may have done wrong. The damn $8 seal that sits inside the bore that I got from eBay had failed.. Cheap overseas JUNK!! I then did a bunch of research on multiple different forums for a few days and found that people had only been successful using USA Made seals by an eBay seller that goes by “PB Sales Inc” out of Menifee, California. In my research, I found that even the PirateJack seals were failing within a few months time, whereas the PB Sales seals weren’t failing. I bought the seals as well and the rubber was much thicker and of better quality right out of the bag when compared to the junk I had purchased previously.. I’m posting this as it may help people in the future as I myself had to remove the hydrobooster, master cylinder, rebuild the HB, reinstall, bleed the system, reinstall the brake master cylinder and bleed the brake lines both via ABS scan tool and manual bleeding.. it was a HEADACHE buying all the fluid twice and making a mess twice.. Good luck, future wrenchers!
I just rebuilt my hydrobooster. Now when I turn the wheel the breaks go down. Any ideas where to start? I made sure two function valve is in the same way yours is. My an original one was different than the one that came in the rebuild kit. The new one is just like yours.
Ok There is probably air in the brake master cylinder, the first air out of the nipples of the brake pipes and the air off line towards - > the brake cylinders of the axles.
Good video..how often do you recomend to change ATF on that coupling ? Manuals of that car only recomends oil changing on the rear differential but never mentions oil changing on the coupling. How long will last that ATF oil ?
The oil in the unit lasts well for many kilometers, the recommended oil change is 300,000 km, I used basic atf oil but a better option is Castrol transmax z.
@@latexihire thanks for your response. You removed coupling due bearing noise. But in my case I am having some issue. The 4wd warning light on dash is flashing and I can see some oil leak around rear differential. Also the car has no power when the throtle pedal is pressed. And got in scanner the code (4WD control code P1726) So I ask my self if the main problem is in the coupling....?
@@selprocr Hi I don't think the 4wd coupler is causing it, but one of these -> wiring, connectors or control box. The car can be driven without the 4wd coupler, as I did when I repaired the 4wd coupler part.
@@latexihire when you say "control box" what do you mean ? I am surpriced to know about car can drive with the traction bar removed.. I tought that was not possible. At this time I have not dissasembled nothing yet, maybe next week. Can be got in the market the coupling discs as a repair kit ? ..just in case.
Good afternoon, tell me how you managed to remove the package of friction discs assembled with the shaft; I can’t do it? I don't want to spoil the seal, I just want to change the oil.
@@latexihireYes, as you can see in your video at this time, everything is clearly visible, but for some reason my clutch is exactly like that. I drained the oil and started further disassembly, and I can’t get the whole thing like in your video, what do you recommend? I can send you a short video to the manager so you can see and give advice
@@werx_tv6759 Hi, I had a problem at 3:30 in the video -> the cover was stuck, I put oil in between and knock knock, the O-ring is stuck without oil...
Do you think the master cylinder will cause all 4 brakes to slightly drag? I can release each one when I open the bleeder screw. Once I drive it for about 3-7 minutes it starts back dragging. I say slightly dragging because I can jack up the truck and turn them by hand with a lot of force. No leaks on the master cylinder or hydro boost. I’ve greased slider pins, bleeding the brakes 3 times, topped off the fluid on both power steering and brake fluid. Power steering is making the whining noise. Pedal is hard not soft. It’s a 2004 Suburban with hydro boost system. Please help.
Operating pressure gets to the wrong place in the brake master cylinder if all brakes are stuck, usually old brake hoses do this, but only wheel-specific sticking.
@@latexihire yes the front brakes would stick completely and then I changed the front rubber brake hoses and now it’s slightly. So you think I should change the master cylinder?
@@latexihire I’m going to released the 2 bolts on the master cylinder to see if it releases the brakes. What if it does release the brakes do I just replace the master cylinder?
hello sir i have kia sorento 2023 2.5 turbo i have problem of warning light in the dash of 4wd tell me there is torque error code number : P195800 after drive in car several minutes and light shows up on dashboard what i must to do to earse that light permanently. thanks Kindly ❤
That's a special fault, it shouldn't be connected to that brake master cylinder, I'm guessing some kind of linkage problem, remove the shields from the front and examine the movements of the arms. In my Van, there was a problem with the brake hoses when the brakes were left on, the old brake hoses were swollen and the pressure remained in the work cylinder.
Excellent video with no b.s talk and soft music. I did the job incorrectly NO WONDER I had NO high pressure now i have to take it apart again to redo. I did not see this video after i cussed NOT able to get my truck started. In USA where i live nearly NO do it yourself for CP3 pump as people are afraid and/or not knowing how as there is none that shows how to rebuild except from overseas I believe i had seen 2 in India already probably this one too. This one is excellent. When people realize how easy it is to rebuild cp3 pump and the money they spend buying a new one they would be pissed. Well that is how they make their money by fooling people with complexity and misleading. Thank you so much for the video and your excellent work. Very clean and organize of your rebuild. Now i. know what i did wrong hopefully i could make it work after rebuild again. Yesterday i bought a used one from Ebay now i have two and definitely i know how to rebuild correctly now.
The little plunger that sits on top of the little yellow cone looking thing mine does not look like that it has three little bitty holes do they face towards me and also whenever I broke my Hydro boost and have it had pressure and sprayed all over me
Hi, Great video! I have 2010 optima with D4EA, changed my timing 6 years ago, did about 70KKm since, the belt is in very good shape but I know that the tensioners tend to fail. i see also on your video that the roller had some play. most cars I know with that engine skipped a teeth because bad tensioner. do you have any idea what is a cautious interval for changing the belt? the manual suggest 10yrs\150kkm but i wonder if after 6-7 i should already replace it as a preventive maintenance
I would change all the belt, water pump, roller, tensioner, however, after 6 years of use and all parts wear out. Many people only change the belt because they save money, it can get expensive.
of course not.. if i do all the work I would obviously change all the kit as you mentioned, it's just a matter of 600 NIS over here (equivalent to 160$). and I would also upload the process to my channel. thanks!@@latexihire
Thank you so much ! I did in less than a Hour , to one Mechanic would have cost me a forture , more than the Car itself , nobodi sees what is aander insulation , thank you so much !
What about the seals on the push rod? I watched another video and the guy cut off the eye. Pulled the rod out replaced the seals. Put the rod back through the housing and welded the eye back on. He said he did this because he couldn't figure out how to remove it. There were no obvious ways of removing it. So I have been searching for a proper way to replace the seals.
The pushrod is held in place due to the end being a ball and then the metal is staked/dented to retain it. Instructions with seal kit show a pry tool to force it out. I made a version with a bearing puller and some all threaded rod. Then to reinstall you need to hold the push rod to the master cylinder side in so you can apply force and not distroy the star washer and then just hammer or press the ball end of the pedal pushrod back into place.
the reason *not* to install: its a cheap product and will fail. how ya gonna remove it when it fails? the high quality pad that i installed: failed at about 6 months. total waste of time. hopefully you will be luckier
Im ernst jetzt ?? das halbe auto zerlegen wegen der glühkerzen ?? scheiss schlitzaugen ich verschenke mein auto !! so was dummes hab ich in meinem ganzen leben noch nie gesehn..............
