GM Hydraulic brake booster leak repair 

Thank you for this video, I put the round thing in the hole with out the plastic piece going in first and got it stuck, I wasn't sure how it reassembled until now. You saved me so much head ache and time! Thank you!

Dude... Your detail is top friggin notch

Well done! No blathering on. Excellent camera shots. You gave me a ton of confidence I'll get it right the first time.

Cool music! And thanks for sharing!

best video yet. thanks

The little yellow plastic thing was lost during disassembly.. life saver for your camera shots

Nice work right on

Great video !!!

what all yrs does that pretain too i have a 98 gmc 3500hd i got a new replacement part and it all ready has that in it so do i still take out my old one and put in the new part even it all ready has one,,,,im curious

2011 GMC Savanna 2500 4.8L looking for same kit couldn’t find one

Buenas tardes,si fuera tan amable y pasar la reparación completa x favor

The little plunger that sits on top of the little yellow cone looking thing mine does not look like that it has three little bitty holes do they face towards me and also whenever I broke my Hydro boost and have it had pressure and sprayed all over me

Could you show/explain/use a drawing of the proper dump valve assembly please. I'm doing a GM and not real sure of the proper reassembly mine fell out... (? Gasket, yellow plastic, pin and exterior end piece) not sure of the correct reassembly. I really would appreciate it sir, thank you

Great video! What are the torque specs for the hydroboost bolts?

Donde esta la parte del vídeo donde cambias los sellos del eje del pedal....

Can you advise? I am rebiilding a school bus witha chevy p30 chassis and the first thing you see when i ooen the hood is the hydroboost and master cylinder on the firewall- so i want to chrome the whole thing. The chrome shop wants onlu the external housings that need to be chromed. The whole proces will take months with back time.and shipping so the bus needs all new components anyway id buy a remanufactured boost and master and disassemble it myself and send the parts out and reasemble the chrome housing when it gets back chromed. Heres the question, how do i remove the pressure canister or does that even need to be removed ? Does it hold pressure? Is it under pressue like a nitrogen ball from a bmw brake system or is theee nothing in that canister and it should be chromed as one piece with the housing? Thats my question.

What kind of fluid do you put back in it? I filled mine up with power steering fluid. Is this correct?

I see that there are kits by different brands. Which one is good?

Where do you buy the gaskets set

will this kit work for a 2009 chevrolet silverado 2500hd?

I got oil leak forminside of cabin and need to remove the pedal part how

Where did you get parts at

😂 media reparación! Falto la varilla del pedal.

I have watched several of these videos and no one changes the pedal rod seals. Is there a trick to these?

Que puedo aser con mi camioneta se en frena sola al darle buelta al bolante trae hidrobooster es una chebrolet modelo 98 de tres toneladas

Do you have a link for the parts kit you bought?

Is the pressure cylinder available?

what was the size of the first seal you pulled out?

What about the seals on the push rod? I watched another video and the guy cut off the eye. Pulled the rod out replaced the seals. Put the rod back through the housing and welded the eye back on. He said he did this because he couldn't figure out how to remove it. There were no obvious ways of removing it. So I have been searching for a proper way to replace the seals.

That’s the same process for a 1976 Cadillac Eldorado

On my 93 Silverado 3/4 ton, I had a bad leak, so I tore it out, disassembled, and rebuilt with a generic (EBAY) rebuild gasket kit. It leaked. Tore that out, and realized somewhere along the tear out, and rebuilding of the original, that the accumulator became loose. That means death to the unit, and you can’t rebuild it at home. And in my application, it’s a DISCONTINUED PART ! Went to Autozone and ordered a Duralast remanufactured unit. Installed it, and it leaked. Tore that one out, brought it back to Autozone, and they ordered another one for me. Installed that one, and it leaked. I DID NOT RETURN THE SECOND UNIT FOR A REPLACEMENT. And this is my suggestion to anyone doing this rebuild. First and foremost, if the accumulator feels loose, or wobbles around and isn’t tight, your unit is toast, and you have to go with a rebuilt. Second, order a rebuilt unit from Autozone or your local parts store. Why ? For the warranty, and it’s local. I’m so glad I went that route. As for the “rebuilt unit”, it probably came from A-1 Cardone if you got it from the parts store, and that basically means it’s pretty much just what you took out of your vehicle, garbage. What did I do ? I tore out the second unit from Autozone that leaked, and disassembled as in this video. Now listen carefully here…I did not use a GENERIC REBUILD KIT FROM EBAY this time around !!!! I found a genuine GM rebuild kit on EBAY (new/old stock) and ordered that. Disassembled the unit and rebuilt it just as I did the original unit in the truck, and NO LEAKS !! The aftermarket generic gaskets are a very big “hit and miss”. These are rubber sealing rings with a VERY SPECIFIC SHAPE to them. If the tolerances are off, by even a little bit, it’s going to leak. Good luck my friends !

Is this a staked rod unit?

Do you think the master cylinder will cause all 4 brakes to slightly drag? I can release each one when I open the bleeder screw. Once I drive it for about 3-7 minutes it starts back dragging. I say slightly dragging because I can jack up the truck and turn them by hand with a lot of force. No leaks on the master cylinder or hydro boost. I’ve greased slider pins, bleeding the brakes 3 times, topped off the fluid on both power steering and brake fluid. Power steering is making the whining noise. Pedal is hard not soft. It’s a 2004 Suburban with hydro boost system. Please help.

Awww shoooot. I just put a $300 hydroboost in my 2018 ram that I could’ve rebuilt for $20 in seal. Stupid me

Where did you purchase kit from?

شكرا .. لكن خصص فيديو لكيفية فك الوصلة التي تربط بين دواسة الفرامل والبوستر الهيدروليكي... حتى يتسنى تركيب حلقات مطاط جديدة ، لمن التسريب.

What is the torque or the housing ?

Where can I get this kit

What about leaks on the outer cylindrical tube?

I have one problem you can only get seals by themselves online auto shops won't sell seals and mechanics upcharge way to much I can not order online and I don't have friends that'll let me use their addy to pick up parts I'm about to use my jobs address since they want to make life difficult for no reason

would you guys rebuild a booster if yes how much

Como eu faço pra comprar esse kit de reparos, você vende ??

Sir good pm order sana ako nang kit.ford550 2013 model

The diagram shows a ball bearing between the two components of the accumulator valve (the yellow piece and the piece with the pin in it), yet your unit had NO such ball bearing. Further, video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TiSS2F5oQU0.html blames the failure of his unit on the omission of the ball bearing. Do you know what the story is with the ball bearing?

the seals aren't the right size for most of them unfortunately. I recommend getting in touch with a professional parts source.

what all yrs does that pretain too i have a 98 gmc 3500hd i got a new replacement part and it all ready has that in it so do i still take out my old one and put in the new part even it all ready has one,,,,im curious