Been shooting the 90gr BlitzKings for over 10 yrs now using a 110 Savage 26" factory bull barrel with the action completely bedded and a stock accutrigger. Found that in my gun BlitzKings bullets liked 3300 fps vs 3400 fps and got 1/2 inch groups. Use H4350. Thanks for going through, in real time, and talking about your load and pressure signs. Take a dremil tool, take out some plastic from the contact areas of the stock and bed that thing with some JB weld. Use kiwi nuetral shoe polish on your gun so it doesn't stick. Check out Nathan Foster's video on bedding a rifle.
@Dmcquown That 25-06 savage has a kreiger 1/9t 24". Does really gd with 110 eldx handloads. I only run these as accuracy and velocity gave me gd results and I haven't shot it for some time.
i bet you didn't switch those. ive recorded a lot of velocities shooting groups. in a "scatter node," it's common to see velocities from a lower charge be faster than the load with more powder. Ive also seen it go the other way. you are seeing why just one shot is not enough to see what is going on one of your shots could be on the edge of the spread.
Love the ladder detail you put into load development. Keep testing more combinations, but for hunting that last group shows that combination will work.
I think I’m going to try the last group on deer this year. If I like the results more than what I’ve been using I may invest some more time into tightening up that group some. Thanks for watching.
With the hammer bullets. Once I find pressure I load down .2 grains until I found accuracy. And I’ve had great luck with h-4350 imr-4350 n-160 and n-165 in my 25-06 with hammer bullets
You should never change your scope setting when you’re just checking for groups. Until you settle on the tightest group, that’s when you set your scope for that group.
Nosler ballistic tip will stop in the varmint... if anything comes out the other side it will just be fragments. I've recently acquired the exact same rifle you are shooting in this video. Ruger 77/22 all weather. AFTER I purchased it, I started reading on various forums that these rifles have accuracy issues... I thought "great".. now that I just got one. I will need to look into this "bolt shimming", bedding it, and free-floating the barrel. My gun, though it does not appear to have been shot much has a 1.5 lb trigger as measured with a pull gauge. SOMEONE has done the trigger.. maybe they shimmed the bolt already? I will have to research this..
Good shooting ! Was it 100 or 200 yards ? I have same rifle but in .270 with same scope. Do you prefer sandbags over bipod and why? What model bipod is that, was it easy to install? Thanks
The groups were at 100 yards. I like bags or a lead sled for load development but for final sight in like to sight in using bipods and a rear bag because it’s the way I’ll be shooting in the field. I’ve shot very good groups off of bipods as well as bags and a lead sled so it’s personal preference. The bipod is a champion brand 9-13”. It’s very easy to install it attaches to the sling swivel. Thanks for watching.
It would be for bullet testing purposes. I would be using a copper bullet only on broadside rib shots. I have been genuinely curious on the performance of that bullet on deer.
Wow! Just WOW! 1 shot average? At least the group will be tight! Safety? No shooting glasses? Consult several sources. Not one. Primers are a poor way to determine pressure. Sad.
holes in paper do not look like straight though holes. I have shot a couple deer with 87 gr Hornady do not recommend them for deer, not reliable when you hit shoulder. I have a 1885 and the scope mount system completely sucks. If they had picatinny rail base it would be a major improvement.
Very strange that someone would do a 224" barrel in 1-14 rate of twist which is a terrible rate of twist that Highly limits the weight of bullets that can be used. I build and sell AR 10 uppers so one I do build and have sold is this 22-6mm Remington I used a Pac Nor super match barrel in 1-9 rate of twist so the guns owner can use a wide range of bullet weights.
This is the original factory barrel that someone reamed. A rebarrel is being discussed and a 1-8” 26” tube will probably replace this one if 22-6mm is the chosen chambering.
I've seen you Guys do all these max loads No use I've figured out it Most Rifles don't like them and all this bedding crap is useless I've got a m77 mkII in hornet no use for all the Hoopla it shoots lights out...But i don't shoot max. Found out it just a Little mans syndrome deal...
As an old guy. Do the load development - groups and velocities - first. One a load is decided, then zero the rifle and load. Groups really do not depend on zero.
I'm doing the same for my .308 SHTF loads. 150gr Barnes ttsx and 150gr hornady 150gr fmj... tried 44.2grs of h335... Got 2740s with the hornady fmj and 2790s with the ttsx in 18" aero build. now I'm going to try 44.5grs.
I shimmed the bolt on my Ruger 77/22 Hornet a couple months back.I hope I'll see a significant improvement in accuracy. Previously I free-floated the barrel which didn't help a whole lot but didn't hurt either. Your results are encouraging!
I don't know where you got your reloading information from but it's way wrong. You CANNOT find an accuracy node with just one shot per powder load. You need at least 3 shots per powder charge and work your way up. Be very cautious about going over on your charge weights. Especially with Hornady Brass. You might be able to get 2 to 3 reloads at max charge or a little over but the brass will start to stretch. Especially in the primer pockets. I've been a Balistician for over 50+ years. I have loaded hundreds of different cartridges over that time frame. So I know what works. Speed is not everything. Furthermore, you should try at least 2 other types or brands of powder and see what they do. The 243 is an overbore cartridge. So using Stabal 6.5 would work really well in it. Great video but try doing what I suggested and you'll be very impressed.
The point of the test is to find the flat spot on the data set, "stable powder charge".. giving you a good spot to start at so you don't waste components.
I have found the key to accuracy in my Hornet was a Lee factory crimp die. It allows the very thin cases to hold the bullet for a better start pressure. I use Lil Gun and have had great sucess.
As an advanced reloader making rifles in wildcat cartridges Reloaders can substitute 6.5 Stable for 4350 because the burn rate is the same. 6.5 Stable has a chemical anti fouling and removes fouling from barrels and is stable under all tempters.
Have a 1885 low wall hi grade in 6.5x55 swed. Great rifle but trigger is gritty and forend touches some. Other than that its a very nice rifle. What did you use to shim your forend? Great videos keep them coming.
That sounds like a great and interesting rifle you have. I used a credit card I had cut up two pieces stacked up under the front screw and one in the back. I took a dremel and opened the sides up some. If you take and push on the hammer and dry fire a few time it seemed to smooth the trigger up a bit. Thanks for watching!
