My pleasure mate, glad it was helpful! Nope the roof lining is all good on this one, but I've replaced it on my Commodore so I know someone who can do them in Adelaide if you need.
How about the oil consumption of this car? Mine is 2014 Kia Sorento 2.2 turbo CRDI, it has exactly the same amount of pressure as yours does and it spills a few droplets of oil when dipstick is removed. Unfortunately, it is consuming around 2 L of oil per 3000 mile. I am gonna take it to sevice center for compression test when the next oil change due. Would love to have any suggestion.
That sounds a lot of oil! I assume there are no obvious oil leaks under the car? Does it blow blue smoke under acceleration? If so, rings could be worn, or an oil seal in the turbo.
@@TheMusingGreg Yes. But no external leaks, no blue smoke, no power loss. Probably turbo or bad rings, I guess. How much does your car consume oil? Could you please answer so that I can make a rough comparison.
@@FletcherEldridge I've never measured my Pajero exactly but my feel is that if I didn't top up the oil it would be down to the Low mark on the dipstick a bit before the next service. So that would be about one litre in 10,000-15,000km. Different vehicle though to yours. The oil has to be going somewhere, if it's getting burnt there should be blue smoke. Maybe get someone to drive behind you while you accelerate and see if they can spot any blue smoke. Or just take it to a mechanic to diagnose.
Thanks for that, I've never heard of it... It looks like a fuel additive rather than an intake cleaner, is that right? If so, how does that help reduce manifold build-up, and what testing did you do to determine it's a good product?
You should see the gritty oil on my turbo inlet. Pulling it apart tomorrow to clean it. Installing a catch can today. Pipes are easy to move for when I clean everything.
It doesn't come off in chunks, the solvent dissolves it; and it's 'only' soot and oil, both of which are usually in the combustion chamber. So in the small amounts it comes off in I can't see an issue, but if it was to come off in chunks then yes that would be a problem.
Maybe you should have compared new steel cans and spouts? I used to use plastic, then I went to expensive plastic. Still got leakage (failing gaskets/O rings etc) and stink and difficulty with the pour spout, spilling and insecurity with the spout. Then I went high quality steel cans with a high quality spout. No stink, no spill, can empty a 20L can in 30-40sec (this is realistic). Also a good can like Pro-Quip is far more resilient against abuse and vehicle accidents. No way I’m going back to plastic.
Thanks for the comment, it's always good to get someone else's experience. It's possible the new steel cans you've got have a different style of pourer than mine, although mine looks the same as what I've seen in shops so I felt it was a fair comparison. I've not had any of the issues you've mentioned with plastic; as I mentioned the red plastic unit in the video is over 25 years old now and the seals and caps are still all fine. Maybe newer cheaper ones may be different, but my experience has certainly made me prefer plastic.
Yeah the elephant hose mod will stop the build-up, but only because it dumps all the soot and blowby oil to atmosphere. That's how crankcase ventilation was done in the very early days, but it's pretty unfriendly for the environment which is why it gets plumbed back in these days and burned. The crankcase ventilation isn't as much the issue as the soot, which you probably don't have an issue with if your EGR is bypassed.
When you plug into mains you get your earth from the supply if your van is wood and fibreglass where is it made ? I’m commenting on Australian vans most are aluminium. I have been through this and was told if I touched the van whilst on the ground I could cause a circuit to be made. I wanted to do almost exactly that you are trying to do.
Yeah it's a good question. As far as I can see the van is floating from earth when the power points are being fed from an inverter, ie there is no connection to physical earth, as you don't drive an earth-wired stake into the ground when you pull up for the night. With this inverter install I tied the earth post on the inverter to the caravan's earthing system, but the only metal thing inside the van that was tied to was the kitchen sink so it's not doing a whole lot. My van was fibreglass so it didn't matter as much. As far as I can see, if the inverter is generating its own 240 volts on board there's no link to physical earth. So even if that somehow got to the body of the van, even if you touch the body of the van while standing on the ground there's no link to physical earth back from the inverter, so no reason for the current to flow through you. Note that this is just my opinion, I'm not an electrician, but I'm just thinking through the logic and I can't see how that would cause a problem. A caravan doesn't have a MEN. A change over switch really would be best, or an inverter with an automatic transfer switch, but that's still doesn't solve the problem of what to do with the earth!
200ml over the full line isn't very much and I wouldn't be worried about adding it now if the oil level is up to the full line on on the dipstick. But if you're concerned just wait until the engine has burnt a bit of oil and then add the product.
I drove a gasoline tanker in the USA for a few years, we were not allowed to have plastic fuel containers or plastic bucket on the truck because of static electricity, even being caught with one would get you banned from the terminal.
Interesting I wonder if that's changed now with the newer types of fuel cans? I would expect static electricity would be one of the first things they would have thought of, so maybe the fuel cans these days are of a plastic which doesn't generate static?
This is dangerous and illegal when you plug into the external inlet it is earthed through the inlet lead ,this set up has no earth you are on rubber tires with no earth spike !
Given there is no earth, as i see it the whole thing is basically double insulated isn't it? This van had a wooden frame, fibreglass body and wooden floor so nothing on the body of the van goes back to earth other than the sink. So even if I touched the active there's no return path for the current and I can't see I'd get a shock. Not that I'm about to try it but I can't see why there's an issue. Would welcome your perspective.
@@TheMusingGreg That’s the first place a thief would look. Needs to be able to be buried in the body of a bike so it can’t be removed without stripping at least some covers.
@@paddydivers3136 Yeah look I guess you could remove the seat and attach it under there. It could also go inside a sealed plastic bag. I agree having it weatherproof would be better, but this might be a workaround.
🎉You nailed the question on my mind for days! Thanks. My 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter arrives tomorrow. We have 100 AH AGM hooked to 170 watt panel. The inverter only has one outlet. We have the same fridge as you. Can I basically mimic your setup?
I can't see why not. Take careful note of the disclaimers though and make sure it's safe. A better way to do it is really to use a transfer switch like this www.ebay.com.au/itm/166545709954. However I used the method in this video for a couple of years with no problems.
Glad it was helpful and thank you for those kind words! Redarc has since updated their blanket so make sure you check out the updated review ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pPy_5Lm-Mo0.html particularly parts 3 and 4.
@@TheMusingGreg lowers cylinder temps, gives a more complete burn, the water methanol also acts as a cleaning solution from point of injection out the exhaust. So, yes, it will clean out the carbon deposits in your intake tract.
@@Akya2120 Thanks. ~$800 is expensive for a water / methanol kit, plus the cost of the methanol, but I guess it could work out cheaper than paying someone to remove the manifold once in a while. And probably cheaper than 20 cans of liqui-moly too!
@@TheMusingGregthats true. It's also going to give you a little more power, and keep the exhaust temps down, as well as keep your fuel economy up between those proposed intake cleaning services. You can also run just straight water injection instead of adding methanol. It will help clean, but it won't have near the cleaning power as water methanol. In the US the AEM water meth kit is $500, but that's about $750 AUD. You might be able to source stuff cheaper, but you'd need your wits about you to get it together functioning correctly. Honestly, at that point it's probably worth the extra $250 over sourcing the stuff. Many folks skip the tank and use their washer fluid reservoir for the kit. Personally, I'd come up with a tank that makes sense for the vehicle. Something like every 3rd fuel up.
Not particularly impressed with any of these panels. Have a Companion 200 watt panel and though the folding and storage options are very useful, performance is below par for the cost of this panel. I also own a Ecoflow BF 220 and these panels easily outperform Companion panels. Ecoflows are easy able to get very close to 200 watts in reasonable solar conditions and quite were showing almost 50% greater output than Companion. I'll say that the kickstand on the Ecoflow is just awful and it surprises me that such an innovative company could design such a substandard pack-away and stand arrangement. Seems they are upgrading with their Nextegen panels to a much improved stand system and that might address some of the issues with the current design.
Thanks for the info mate, I'll keep an eye out for the updated Ecoflow! In the big picture yeah I agree with you none are amazing relative to their specs, but in all the testing I've done I've not seen better than 80% of the rating. So that's the context in which my conclusions are drawn.
@@TheMusingGreg Interesting Greg. I'll continue to work my Companion panel and see if I can improve the output. I should add that I've been able to achieve 230 watts from the Ecoflow 220 Bifacial with a bit of rear light reflection without too much effort. Very much appreciate your comments and really enjoy your very well detailed tests. Cheers
That sounds very promising, thanks for the update. Look forward to hearing what other results you get from the Companion. Glad you're enjoying the channel cheers!
That would solve any chance of oil fumes getting into the manifold. But that air originally came in through the air flow meter, so dumping it to air would cause an air fuel imbalance. That's why it's routed back into the air intake after the air flow meter so there's no air lost from the system. In any case this catch can is pretty efficient and not very much oil fumes come back out with the clean air.
This catch can at least does a pretty good job of removing the oil from the air so dumping it wouldn't be necessary. However if you did dump it, it would muck up the air flow metering a bit as that air has already been accounted for by the airflow meter.
You probably can do that, but it might pay to drill a few small holes first just to make sure there's nothing behind there first before you start cutting big holes!
Splendid thanks for letting me know Ronald, that's a great decision! Please share the video with your friends on social media/ forums so others can benefit from it!
I’ve been thinking of fitting one to my 2013 Jeep Diesel. But I’m wondering is it better to have the sticky goop build up or dry carbon and which is worse. I’m going to strip out the air box (big job) and EGR and give them a clean out. I’m also wondering if once clean something like LiqiMoly cleaner is a good idea every 10k just prior to an oil change. Thoughts?
Hi Stephen, great questions! My current feeling is that sticky wet carbon is easier to deal with than the dry stuff, so I'm not using my catch can at the moment. Something like liqui Moly can't hurt before a service, however it doesn't make a big difference - did you see the reviews I've posted on this and other products? ru-vid.com/group/PLY9DsfXyOtbJOy2LnhAd_sowYobF9aW9f
Yes I did see that it was good and I’ve watched a few others. I think if I’d used it (liqumoly) from year 1 each year maybe over the last 11 years the build up may not have happened or at least be less. Now 11 years on and at 170k I see the buildups far too thick ( I removed the EGR pipe to check) and no spray will remove that. If tomorrow is sunny I think I’ll spend the day stripping the carbon out and clean what I can manually. The Jeeps running fine but I’m thinking anything preventative now can’t be a bad thing. Cheers S. I’ve just seen the follow up video, which is what I was thinking as a maintenance measure. Good videos cheers.
No worries mate. If the build up is heavy you'll need to do a physical removal and clean, but after it's clean liqui Moly before each service would help to slow the rate it builds up
No problem, glad to help mate! The standard ones are probably ok but this was an aftermarket addition and maybe not rated correctly for the ambient temperature plus current 👍
Thanks for the video. If I turned on watch dog mode when parked, do I need to turn off before driving out? Otherwise, it will sent notification the tracker has left the boundary. I only want to use this for security purposes.
Hi mate, thanks for the comment. It completely depends what you want it to do. When you exit the ~50m boundary, watchdog mode will: 1) turn itself off, 2) turn on Emergency Mode and 3) send you a notification via app and email (and SMS if enabled). If you want to receive an alert whenever the vehicle leaves that boundary, then you would need to turn watchdog mode on; however if you ONLY want to receive an alert if you're not driving it when it leaves the boundary, then yes you would need to manually turn watchdog mode off before you drive the vehicle away. Let me know if you need any other clarification.
Acreditem o MOS2 é o único que cumpre com sua promessa de redutor de atritos de todos os outros do mercado, sendo assim o melhor aditivo de óleo usado desde a segunda guerra mundial!Sua dica foi muito boa para não desperdício do MOS2!😊
Glad it was helpful mate! Please share it on your social media to help your friends and help my channel - personal recommendations are worth their weight in gold! 🥇👍
Fantastic review, I agree with many of the comments ypu made regarding the dashboard tracking... like many car owners my interest is in the event the car is stolen I need ro have instant updates to see where the car is to take prompt action. I will consider the product and hope the owners can improve on the dashboard features
Thank you so much for your feedback, I really appreciate it! Yes hopefully they'll make those changes and make it an even better product! I'd really appreciate it if you could take a moment to share the video on your social media - your personal recommendation is the most effective way of helping more people see it, which in turn helps me recoup my production costs. Cheers!
Splendid thanks so much for your feedback, I really appreciate it! Please take a moment to share the video on your social media - your personal recommendation is worth a thousand attempts on my part to promote it through advertising!
This video is kinda old but I'm getting my own Pajero 2017 with 80000kms on the odometer. The filler cap is shaking like your older Pajero. I don't know much about the previous owner and how he drove it but I think it needs longer drives. Thanks for the videos! Good reference 👍🏼🤘🏼
I agree,, however they don't instruct the user to do tha. So I was just following their instructions exactly to see how it worked as they instructed, rather than my own ideas.
Thanks very much Jack, I really appreciate your support so I can keep making videos like this! Yeah I hope they make these sorts of improvements, it means we get products that work better, and they get a better rap from customers who use their products and like the fact they listen to feedback! Which blanket did you end up choosing yourself?
You’re welcome and thank you for making these videos, I think they will help many buyers and sellers. I already have a kings blanket, but I am realizing the cheap quality. I’m saving up and I will probably end up buying the Hard Korr.
My pleasure mate, and good choice on the Hard Korr! It's a great product! I just noticed Snowy's doesn't sell these anymore, but Outback Equipment does and they're cheaper than the ones on eBay, so I've just updated the affiliate link in the description if you decide to purchase from Outback Equipment - bit.ly/HardKorrSolarBlanket-OE
Hi Greg. I’ve recently organised with Solid GPS to sell their products too. I did a lot of research before committing and it’s an excellent product and Aussie made. Bonus! Great product great people.
Thanks for the review. I bought the Allspark on special for $721. It's currently putting out 160W, or 70% of its rated output. That's actually better than my home rooftop panels which are putting out only 45% of their rated output at exectly the same time!
Jack you are a gentleman and a scholar, thank you very much! Yeah 70% is pretty good, this is about the time of year I was testing mine, and you'll probably find it heads north of 80% in the warmer months! Good choice, and thanks again!
