How quickly does your diesel manifold gunk up?? Tested 8000km after a clean! 

Fantastic, so pleased to know you're finding the content useful! Yeah I was pretty shocked too! I'm at 291000km now so will be interested to check it again soon. This is my first diesel too (bought just over 2 years ago now), so the things I'm documenting are things I was asking as a diesel novice, and discovering answers for as I went through it all for the first time too!

In that case you might be interested in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DFemreqYqUI.html - towards the end I pull some gunk out of a 2020 Pajero with about 76000kms on the clock. Not sure what vehicle you've got but you might be surprised how much might be in there. The maintenance you're doing is great but it won't stop manifold build-up. Equally, in moderate doses some manifold build-up doesn't matter too much - check out the first video in this series ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gcP5Z2Kc7X0.html as I did tests before and after cleaning the manifold and comment on the effect of the build-up. Thanks for the comment!

Cheers PP, yeah EGR has a lot to answer for in our modern diesels!

Yes I've heard the Pajero's 4M41 engine is a 'heavy breather' too. I presume that means blowby which would result in more oily fumes to clog up the manifold.

I completely agree! I was thinking exactly that during this testing and thinking if it could be done. But I think the complexity would make it hard especially as the manifold is sometimes under heavy boost pressure, you wouldn't want to be trying to spray say 10psi of pressure into a manifold under 20psi of boost! You might find the can explodes and makes a fair old fire! However it could be engineered.

Yeah it's frustrating. I don't really want to get rid of the EGR valve but it appears the only option to get rid of the build-up, which as you say brings its own problems. If you can't get your manifold off you might need to clean it on the vehicle with a product like the Liqui-Moly or Revive - check out my comparison if you're interested ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DFemreqYqUI.html

You're probably right unfortunately, it's an expensive option

No worries glad it was helpful!

Cheers, yep you probably heard the surprise in my voice when it came out! I expected a small amount, but nothing like this!

Not really. I've only taken it all off once so far and I did actually record the process but the footage wasn't very good so I never did anything with it. But if / when I do it again I might try again. However it wasn't hard to remove the fuel lines or recharge the fuel system.

Hey David, thanks for the comment and great to know you found the content helpful! It's also interesting to hear you found an improvement in performance and economy - does your turbo have a pressure-driven wastegate or is it controlled by the ECU? I've actually found very variable results from my testing. For example this video was after 8000km of a mix of city and country driving and as you saw it was pretty gunked up; but I've just pulled mine off again at 300,000 after doing about 15,000 km of highway towing from Perth to Brisbane via the Vic high country, and the manifold only had a very thin layer of buildup! The video for that is still coming. So the right solution depends on how much build-up you're getting, which may depend on the type of driving you're doing. But here's what I reckon from all the testing I've done: The most effective solution by far is a physical manifold removal and clean. No manifold cleaning products I've tested are particularly effective. Liqui Moly is certainly the best, but it's still a distant second place to the remove and clean. Even with my latest test with just a slightly dirty manifold, a full bottle of Revive followed by a can of Liqui moly with two heat soak stages still made little difference to the small amount of build up I had. If you don't want you remove your manifold regularly (and who would?!), Liqui Moly every 5000km is probably the next best thing. But understand it's a distant second place. Hope this helps!

Dry deposits are definitely thinner but they do still build up, see my earlier Revive video. The dry stuff is very difficult to remove vs the wet stuff so I'm still deciding on this

@@TheMusingGreg Just look at the exhaust side. Everything is dry and you cannot find any restricted port. The EGR pipe just before the mixer is dry. Exhaust manifold is dry. And everywhere is no oil there are no thick deposits

Yeah I mentioned this philosophy in the first video in this series ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dSmd-hu3nu4.html but hadn't yet checked it. I agree the exhaust side doesn't build up but it definitely does in the intake side. Maybe this is a very small amount of oil vapour getting past the catch can, not sure, but I definitely still get manifold build-up without the catch can and it's hard as blazes to remove which I don't like at all - check out what I found in the manifold during the Revive review ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DFemreqYqUI.html.

Hi Jamie, glad you're enjoying the content. No you haven't missed the video, I've not done it yet because I've only just completed shooting the Revive vs Liqui Moly follow-up video. I'm also a bit in two minds as to whether to do it at all, as I understand it's technically illegal to modify the EGR system even through electronic means.

@@TheMusingGreg Have you considered a plate with a reduced hole size.(Im sure you have.) Reducing the powder and allow the oil to keep from sticking. This would mean taking the catch can back off. Great work on the Revive/ Liqui Moly follow up video by the way.

Yeah that's definitely an option I'm familiar with, but I was more interested in the resistor mod as an ECU controlled approach. But once I get there I'll decide which, if any, mod I make. Cheers, glad you're enjoying the content!

That's right Mike, using the long screwdriver I'm well past the EGR point - as you can see the front of the throttle body / manifold is clean before the EGR enters the intake, so this gunk is definitely towards the back. Without EGR getting involved, I would expect none of this build-up as there'll be no soot to clag up the oil, but that'll be an interesting future video! Though it sounds like your setup now is what I'm looking at doing next! I'm also going to be doing some work on catch can pressure when I can get my hand on the right type of pressure gauge. However the Provent 200 has a pressure bypass valve in the bottom of the filter which should open if input pressure ever starts to climb so I wouldn't be too worried about that side of it. Cheers, Greg

No this was after it had been disconnected for 8000km. I originally had the catch can connected some months ago to check how well Revive worked on dry buildup ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DFemreqYqUI.html. After that video, I then disconnected the catch can and ran the vehicle for the 8000km and then did this test.

You might have something there. Most of my driving has been highway use towing a caravan. I'll see if I get more build-up now I'm doing less of that

@@TheMusingGreg also the more frequent you change your oil the better. The chief engineer of the Nissan Gtr said if you want the car to last a lifetime do it every 2-5000km. And if you do it that frequently you only need change the filter every second oil change. And you don’t need to buy expensive oil when doing it that frequently. As the saying goes “oil is cheap, engines are expensive”

Yep good points!

Purely because it's harmful to the environment just pumping oil fumes into the atmosphere. Years ago that's what was done but today you'd have millions of cars pumping raw oil fumes into the air we all breathe. Now thankfully manufacturers are being required to reduce the pollution their vehicles create, hence positive crankcase ventilation (pcv) and exhaust gas recirculation (EGR). They come with their own problems which is partly what a catch can deals with, by collecting the oil and the owner can then dispose of it responsibly, often with their waste engine oil at the next service.

@@TheMusingGreg but the crude oil was pumped from nature - return it to nature.

@@pfoxhound From nature yes, but not from the atmosphere. You'd have to return it to an oil well for that logic to hold true.

@@TheMusingGreg it will condense inside pipe that you will attach from PCV to the bottom of the car, it will drop on surface and sip down, deep in the ground... Where liquid form will join the rest of the oil.

Some will, and will eventually wash into rivers and oceans. The rest will go into the air. Either way it's not going back down into an oil well. I've seen the fumes coming from the crankcase at idle when the engine's not sucking it through and it's a steady stream of oily haze. Multiply that by every car in the road and that's a lot more pollution for the only planet we have.

Yep correct!

I own a LC79 and I do know how bad is the EGR but I don't have to balls to blank it.